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So one of the seemingly infinite number of questions that rattle around in my mind at any given time is, "does the S63 engine suffer from valve seal problems like the N62 and N63 did?" Turns out, the answer is an unequivocal yes. Pulling away from a light just now, buddy in an X5M beside me just let off a James Bond oil smokescreen. And he did it at least three more times that I saw.
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Nov 10, 2015 22:36
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I'm having trouble with my e39 (2001 530i). Unless I turn the fuel pump to 9:00 it only takes like a gallon at a time. We already replaced a filler neck hose with no change because it was collapsed and fucky and it's not throwing any codes. He wanted to just replace the whole tank or some poo poo but it woulda been $700 and I can deal with turning a gas pump for $700. Any ideas? Also it has a hum/whine that the mechanic couldn't even hear/notice but it seems like it only happens at idle or low speed. I don't really have anything more specific than that. I don't think it's any of the serpentine belts and I can't seem to change the noise by revving the engine or anything and it either goes away or I can't hear it anymore at speed. It's definitely not the AC because it happens when the AC is off too. pls help me ai it's like having tinnitus e: i can hear something winding down whenever the noise turns off MY INEVITABLE DEBT fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Nov 13, 2015 |
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Nov 12, 2015 00:22
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F80 in color: She actually arrived on Tuesday, but the drat shipping company scratched up the passenger side (2 scratches about 1/2" long down the metal, and another 4" series of chips in the clearcoat). The dealer tried buffing it out, but I still wasn't happy with the results, so I had them paint the damaged areas. Body shop did a top-notch job, the paint match is perfect. As much as it killed me to send a brand new car in for paint I'm very happy with the results. Car is awesome, BTW. And stupid fast. Especially since I've been driving an '06 Expedition for the last 2 months.
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Nov 14, 2015 00:37
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I'm enjoying mine as well. Almost 3k miles so far and taking it to the track next Sunday.
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Nov 14, 2015 02:13
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Man that thing looks good. Do you have more interior photos?
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Nov 14, 2015 02:17
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Just this one demonstrating that it will baby. I'll try to grab some more later. E:   
SlapActionJackson fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Nov 14, 2015 |
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Nov 14, 2015 04:04
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Anyone know of a decent headlight restoration kit? The PO apparently used a "Pep Boys kit" to try and de-fogify the headlight lenses, but he only got about half the smutch off. He apparently did this with the headlights still in the car. 2001 540i/6.
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Nov 14, 2015 23:20
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I've head good luck with the Sylvania branded one. Whatever you get, make sure it comes with a UV protectant coating, otherwise the new finish won't last very long. Even with the UV stuff expect to see it start to cloud again in two or three years. Also, I found out why my e36 wiper arms hit the hood when opening/closing it, the wiper assembly is held to the windshield cowl via rubber grommets and they wear out over time, causing the entire assembly to shift downwards. On my car it eventually got bad enough that the tips of the wipers started hitting the side of the windshield at max travel. All you have to do to fix it is to drop the wiper assembly into the cowl a bit and replace a couple $2 grommets. If you're lazy you could probably also just undo the nuts, push the linkage up, and retighten to clamp everything in place. BMW bushings 
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Nov 14, 2015 23:47
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E36 M3 prices seem to be skyrocketing. I've seen two today priced above 15k.
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Nov 15, 2015 07:30
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Trans Ferdinand posted:Anyone know of a decent headlight restoration kit? The PO apparently used a "Pep Boys kit" to try and de-fogify the headlight lenses, but he only got about half the smutch off. He apparently did this with the headlights still in the car. 2001 540i/6. I can't remember the exact name but the kit 3M sells is top notch and has saved some terrible headlights on our families cars
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Nov 15, 2015 08:25
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blk posted:E36 M3 prices seem to be skyrocketing. I've seen two today priced above 15k. 540i prices (and E39s in general) seem to be still fairly low. I saw a 540i/6 for 2500! (high miles, fair condition)
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Nov 15, 2015 09:29
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blk posted:E36 M3 prices seem to be skyrocketing. I've seen two today priced above 15k. I hope that trend continues. Over the next year I want to get mine well sorted with the suspension/related bushings (seemingly last thing needing attention) and sell it for a 128i. With those things addressed I think at best it would be a 8-9K car.
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Nov 15, 2015 17:41
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US E36 M3 prices are going to crater when the S50 euro cars start coming in.
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Nov 15, 2015 18:11
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Can't happen until those cars are 25 years old and that's still a long ways away ... right? 2017 Goddamn I'm getting old.
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Nov 15, 2015 20:07
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Well my E90 has started having that problem with the folding mirrors where the drivers side one keeps rotating all the way forward. I've tried a bunch of fixes I found on other forums, but so far nothing helps. Every time I unlock the car, the mirror rotates forward. I wonder if I can find a junkyard mirror and swap internals or something.
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Nov 15, 2015 20:40
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Funzo posted:Well my E90 has started having that problem with the folding mirrors where the drivers side one keeps rotating all the way forward. I've tried a bunch of fixes I found on other forums, but so far nothing helps. Every time I unlock the car, the mirror rotates forward. I wonder if I can find a junkyard mirror and swap internals or something. Can you just pull the fuse so the mirror doesn't fold at all? Or just cut the wire to the folding motor if it comes down to it?
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Nov 15, 2015 21:34
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EVERYWHERE 
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Put the Z4 away in storage today. See you in a few (five) months.
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Nov 15, 2015 21:44
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I need wheels for a '95 M3 track car. Are Arc-8's my best bet? I'm still torn on a 235/40/17 or a 255/40/17 tire. I guess I need to decide what I want to do so I know if a 8.5" or a 9.0" is better.
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Nov 16, 2015 17:45
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Why not a 245/40/17? ARC 8's are great but don't forget that Kosei K1's are still a great price @ 175/ea on tire rack.
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Nov 16, 2015 18:26
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I was looking at NT01's for tires, and the only 245 I saw was a 245/45/17. I've seen some people bad mouthing the K1 recently saying the new ones aren't as strong. I don't know how much truth there is to that. Maybe they dropped a tire into a hole or something and that's why they had problems. No telling. I have 255/40/17's on the car now. The tires are a little wide for the wheels, but they work and don't rub. I don't "need" the extra contact patch so I thought I could save a few bucks in the long run by going slightly smaller.
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Nov 16, 2015 19:09
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2001 328i wagon (apparently) needs a new PS Pump. According to my research, there wasn't a 328i model for 2001, despite my paperwork saying different. How do I know if it's actually a 2001 325, with the 2.5l 6cyl, or a 2000 with the 2.8? Or does it not matter and the PS is identical on both models and I can just grab whatever pump from RockAuto? Edit: Ignore me, just checked my CarProof report and it's right on there. 325it Cthulhuite fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Nov 16, 2015 |
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Nov 16, 2015 20:06
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I'm looking to lower my 335xi sedan (F30). I want to improve handling and roll but not gently caress up my cars everyday driving and constantly scrape/bottom out. I'd just like have it sit more or less like a RWD 335i w/ sports suspension would. The performance suspension kit is not an option according to BMW. The mechanic I've been going to recommended H&R springs, and said he could do the work for $600 out the door. So in theory I'd get a nice gain in performance and aesthetics for ~$850 including parts. For H&R it claims -1.6" and -1.5" for front and rear, respectively. If I understand correctly, -xi raises the car 10mm from the factory, and the sports suspension (adaptive M is what the invoice says) does not lower it like it would for a non -xi model. I think this means I'm sitting 20mm higher than a similarly optioned RWD? Still, dropping it ~40mm seems a bit excessive.. though I admittedly do not really know what I am doing here. Bimmerfest had some threads with people using H&R springs, but also a lot of conflicting/confusing comments. I dont know what to believe over there.. so any advice is appreciated.
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Nov 16, 2015 20:40
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Unicorn found. http://eastidaho.craigslist.org/cto/5281714767.html
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Nov 17, 2015 05:57
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the Mods, they knew!
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It's not all that rare, BMW imports a ton of alpina B7s. A poo poo ton show up in salvage auctions with the front end smashed in.
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Nov 17, 2015 06:48
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SlapActionJackson posted:Just this one demonstrating that it will baby. You are a true hero. What cars have you owned in the past and how does the F80 compare? I need something with actual back seats and a manual. The F80 is on my short list.
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Nov 17, 2015 07:37
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Zoom Zoom, motherfuckers
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I got hit with a $400+ repair bill and got yelled at because I didn't jump start my E39 properly and hosed up something under the dash that caused battery drain and I was lucky it didn't torch the car apparently, the whole story was hard to take in because it was too early in the morning to decipher the angriest German accent ever but yeah. I had to take it to a specialty shop because nobody else had a clue. From now on - booster packs only, and if it's totally dead, I remove the battery (or disconnect it) and charge it separately. That's it. Right?
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Nov 17, 2015 12:54
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Best practice is to not jump anything that has a CANBus. This means e39/e53/e46/e38+. These cars are more sensitive to voltage than just about anything else. But, yeah, if you have to, removing the battery is the safest way.
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Nov 17, 2015 14:01
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SuperDucky posted:Best practice is to not jump anything that has a CANBus. This means e39/e53/e46/e38+. These cars are more sensitive to voltage than just about anything else. Is this a general statement or applicable only to BMWs?
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Nov 17, 2015 14:50
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SuperDucky posted:Best practice is to not jump anything that has a CANBus. This means e39/e53/e46/e38+. These cars are more sensitive to voltage than just about anything else. If jump starting wasn't ok BMW wouldn't put it in the manual would they? Just follow the rules. Don't connect the negative leads battery to battery, use the frame on the dead car. Let the donor car run for a few mins before trying to start the dead car. Jump started literally hundreds of vehicles (i do roadside assistance when needed as part of my job) and have never ever had a problem. Or buy a boost pack made in the last few years and it will probably have some sort of regulator in it to prevent voltage spikes.
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Nov 17, 2015 21:41
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Yeah, my E46 owner's manual details how to safely jump start using the remote terminal under the hood. If it was so bad for the car, BMW of all manufacturers would have no problem telling people to not do it.
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Nov 17, 2015 22:04
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How bad of an idea is a 2008 e60 m5 with no warranty? If I have access to a lift and the Internet as a resource, how bad will maintenance be? I don't mind doing major maintenance myself and taking my time to do it as this would be a third vehicle but is there some stuff that someone with no prior bmw knowledge just won't be able to do? If the answer here is a resounding "get out" and "never look back". I will know to end my research here. My basic googling skills have told me that a tranny failure is $15,000 and a blown motor due to vanos failure is $20,000 but that can't possible be accurate today can it?
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Nov 17, 2015 22:14
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I've lost a ZKE to jumping and a low/dead battery. I wouldn't advise it but its definitely possible to do safely. Now, on my e30, who gives a poo poo, what electronics are you going to kill? I dunno, I'd rather just shell out the money for a battery than ~1200 programmed for a ZKE. Cornholio: For me, I only worry about it with BMWs, but I also don't have a lot of experience with newer cars in general that aren't BMW.
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Nov 17, 2015 22:39
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Modus Man posted:How bad of an idea is a 2008 e60 m5 with no warranty? If I have access to a lift and the Internet as a resource, how bad will maintenance be? I don't mind doing major maintenance myself and taking my time to do it as this would be a third vehicle but is there some stuff that someone with no prior bmw knowledge just won't be able to do? When I was looking at these I couldn't find too much to be afraid of, but I also wasn't going to get one with the SMG. Haven't heard about the engine failure.
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Nov 17, 2015 22:40
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Modus Man posted:How bad of an idea is a 2008 e60 m5 with no warranty? If I have access to a lift and the Internet as a resource, how bad will maintenance be? I don't mind doing major maintenance myself and taking my time to do it as this would be a third vehicle but is there some stuff that someone with no prior bmw knowledge just won't be able to do? I have heard of bottom main bearing failures too. But avoid the SMG, and you will be fine for the most part. The biggest battle these engines had is from idiots flooring them when the engines havent warmed up yet.
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Nov 17, 2015 23:03
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Modus Man posted:How bad of an idea is a 2008 e60 m5 with no warranty? If I have access to a lift and the Internet as a resource, how bad will maintenance be? I don't mind doing major maintenance myself and taking my time to do it as this would be a third vehicle but is there some stuff that someone with no prior bmw knowledge just won't be able to do? My friend has had all sorts of issues with his E60 M5, but most of them have been related to the SMG. However, he had some VANOS issues on his and it's cost him a shitload of money on various things. I don't think those prices have really come down all that much simply because the cars aren't super common and are still really expensive.
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Nov 17, 2015 23:19
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SuperDucky posted:I've lost a ZKE to jumping and a low/dead battery. I wouldn't advise it but its definitely possible to do safely. Now, on my e30, who gives a poo poo, what electronics are you going to kill? I have to wonder how much of this is your fault rather than that of the car. I've jumped my own car a couple times (and a few other very modern BMWs, like E60s and E9xs) with literally no issues whatsoever.
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Nov 17, 2015 23:30
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Modus Man posted:How bad of an idea is a 2008 e60 m5 with no warranty? If I have access to a lift and the Internet as a resource, how bad will maintenance be? I don't mind doing major maintenance myself and taking my time to do it as this would be a third vehicle but is there some stuff that someone with no prior bmw knowledge just won't be able to do? Run, don't walk away. For some reason the S85 has major reliability issues while the S65 typically does ok to 100k miles (ish). The cost of the transmission and engine will not go down just because the car is aging. The only thing going down is the value of the car. It's still a $100k M5 when it rolls into the shop for maintenance. To put it another way, there's a reason why a sedan with a V10 that saw widespread praise can be had for $25k. If you really want an e60 M5 get one from Carmax and purchase their 6 year 125k mile warranty. If you don't mind driving an X1 loaner from the BMW dealership once a month that's the frugal enthusiast's pick.
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Nov 18, 2015 01:53
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Oh, and you're going to get 12mpg average out of it.
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Nov 18, 2015 02:34
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BlackMK4 posted:Oh, and you're going to get 12mpg average out of it. The even more hilarious thing is that the M5 still has the E60's standard 70 liter fuel tank (18.5 US gallons).
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Nov 18, 2015 03:12
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| # ? Jun 2, 2024 07:39 |
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This probably belongs in Terrible Car Stuff but I found this amusing and BMW. "He Slid On Water" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9l5G0hR9zQ
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Nov 18, 2015 04:18
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