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Crotch Fruit posted:I wish my hardware store had free popcorn. No local Ace? Also no amount of popcorn will make Ace's prices worth it
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Nov 19, 2015 20:14
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MickRaider posted:No local Ace? My local ace put every hand tool, drill bit, and saw blade behind locked glass cases. Like 3 full aisles worth of tools you can't handle. It is annoying enough that I've sworn off them completely. It isn't like there aren't 4 other competitors within a mile that haven't felt the need to do so.
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Nov 19, 2015 23:21
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Uncle Enzo posted:That said, I've heard nothing but good things about the Duralast tools from Autozone and apparently their guarantee is pretty foolproof. You walk in, give them the busted one, they take your phone# for the computer system, you get a new one and walk out. They've got a large variety of tools with what seem to be good build quality. It's mostly decent stuff, but Do Not Buy the various Duralast vicegrips. loving soft loose garbage. A lifetime no-questions-asked warranty is only good for tools you actually want to keep.
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Nov 20, 2015 02:00
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Good rule of thumb: never buy a kit of tools that includes a fiberglass handled hammer for they serve the demons of vesication. Plus a lot of the other tools are probably also junk.
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Nov 20, 2015 06:43
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You know, guys, Christmas is coming up...
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Nov 20, 2015 08:42
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Well, thanks for the advice guys. I was hoping somebody had made a kit that was decent. I guess I'll go back to obsessively pouring over reviews and posts in this thread to build one for myself.
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Nov 20, 2015 15:33
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Honestly get a kit from lowes or home depot and be happy they'll work and aren't going to be too lovely. If you want good then buy snapon or equiv.. but get ready to pay. Or.. buy kobolt then replace the ones That break with snapon now you have quality tools for the ones you use the most and decent for the occasional use ones.. this is what I did with router bits.. good for start then replace with great.
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Nov 21, 2015 00:00
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If you do end up with a kit, I think the "box with drawers" type is a hell of a lot better than the "giant clamshell that holds everything sideways when you use the handle" type.
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Nov 21, 2015 02:27
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Splizwarf posted:"giant clamshell that holds everything sideways when you use the handle" type. Those are generally pretty bad and prone to dumping all the part inside them all around in the case, but that can largely be alleviated with a sheet of that dark grey soft foam covering everything, it secures everything quite nicely. Of course, then you have a stupid sheet of soft foam in there to deal with every time you open/close it. 
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Nov 21, 2015 02:29
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I have the opposite problem with my clamshell - everything is held in a way that's frustrating to remove AND put back in... I feel like tool kits can be a great deal if you're just starting out and don't know what you need yet. The trick imo is to not buy them for full price because they show up for steep discounts pretty regularly.
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Nov 21, 2015 03:37
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If you want mediocre tools and lots of them, spend a Saturday going to yard sales or an estate auction. Stop by my house with a bottle of bourbon and I'll load you up with lovely tools, haha.
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Nov 21, 2015 03:50
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Okay, but it's gonna be lovely bourbon. Tit for tat, and all. If I'm going to take your trash, you gotta take mine.
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Nov 21, 2015 03:55
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Even the worst bourbon will make you forget all about terrible tools.
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Nov 21, 2015 05:18
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PSA: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136120 It's time to post this again.
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Nov 21, 2015 06:05
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a year ago I couldn't swing a hammer to save my life, but since buying my house I've gone full tool-head. Now I'm an aspiring woodworker and electronics production hobbyist, and seeking to combine these 2 disciplines in order to facilitate rich homeowner experiences and possibly some product development down the road if I ever get good. Last week, after months of deliberating, I broke down and purchased my first table saw. It's nothing too fancy, a Rigid 10" saw with cast iron top and induction motor. There's one problem- I'm terrified of this thing. I read that the table saw is the most likely thing in the shop to cause serious injury, and I've seen at least 20 kickback videos. I've read that the riving knife is not to be removed, however half the intent of owning this was to make perfect box joints with the incra iBox. (It just wasn't cutting it with a table router) Onto my question: It appears that I will have to remove the riving knife for any dado set operations. In doing so, and using the Ibox (which clamps the board perpendicular to the blade for the purpose of box joint cuts) am I safe to have the riving knife removed? Do any more experienced users have any advice on safety and table saws beyond the normal 4 hours of youtube safety videos? Is vertically imposed board going over the blades as subject to kickback as a large piece of plywood being ripped? Do I really need to buy a sled for crosscuts?
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Nov 21, 2015 14:03
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RTFM posted:a year ago I couldn't swing a hammer to save my life, but since buying my house I've gone full tool-head. Now I'm an aspiring woodworker and electronics production hobbyist, and seeking to combine these 2 disciplines in order to facilitate rich homeowner experiences and possibly some product development down the road if I ever get good. I've never used a table saw with a riving knife, took it off the one that came with one (sears). I've owned 4 table saws (that I can remember) and worked on dozens of others since getting into construction in 1971. It's good to be scared and respectful, terrified is maybe too much respect. The guys I've known that cut themselves on table saws were careless goofballs mostly. That said, don't blame me if you take the riving knife off and have a great experience using a table saw. Q.- what kind of electronics stuff? edit- I hosed up one pinkie on my shaper, but it healed up; narrowly escaped a kickback on my table saw maybe twice- my own carelessness. The reason most injuries happen on the table saw is probably because it is the big tool with an exposed blade most often used. Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Nov 21, 2015 |
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Nov 21, 2015 16:13
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I just made a big post on riving knives a couple days ago, either in this thread or woodworking.
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Nov 21, 2015 18:02
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RTFM posted:Do I really need to buy a sled for crosscuts? Crosscut sleds are a really good idea, you should make one asap. For safety, check out the Microjig Splitter and Microjig Grr-Ripper. You may want two of the grr-ripper for ripping longer pieces, but I get by with one. Also, it's not too late to look into hand tool woodworking, check out Paul Sellers' channel on Youtube.
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Nov 21, 2015 18:07
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Mr. Mambold posted:
I started off with some premade kits to learn to solder. TV-b-Gone, etc. Now that I've gone off the deep end and built myself an amazing little soldering station, I'm getting into bigger projects. Living near austin and being a big music nerd, I'm currently working on a theramin. The PCB is done at this point, and I'm starting to think about designing a cool case out of higher end wood. Wood + electronics is striking a chord in my head, I wonder how far I can take that. A music producer friend makes a lot of cool eurorack modules, and has also made some neat tube amp projects. I'm guessing I'll take a similar path with my free time. In the meantime I have a bunch of arduinos and pi's and am doing some home automation projects. (Relays on garage door, Amazon echo + smart things to control lights, and similar ideas) Really I'm just bored with my job and looking to build some skillsets which may be rewarding later on. Cpt.Wacky posted:Crosscut sleds are a really good idea, you should make one asap. I definitely bought way too many tools, and I was actually on my way to doing some hand-cut box joints with my snazzy chisels and Japanese pull saws, but I feel if I'm going to do any larger projects I also want the power tool option. You've now got me drawing out my crosscut sled in sketch up. Thanks for the advice. Winston_Wolf fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Nov 21, 2015 |
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Nov 21, 2015 20:46
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RTFM posted:I definitely bought way too many tools, and I was actually on my way to doing some hand-cut box joints with my snazzy chisels and Japanese pull saws, but I feel if I'm going to do any larger projects I also want the power tool option. You've now got me drawing out my crosscut sled in sketch up. Thanks for the advice. For the power tool side of woodworking, check out Mathias Wandel's stuff at woodgears.ca and his youtube channel. For example, his crosscut sled.
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Nov 21, 2015 21:56
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Is something like this actually useful, where you can just pump the handle to drive the ratchet? http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-inch-drive-mach-series-ratchet/p-00944578000P
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Nov 22, 2015 17:49
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I have a quick and fairly stupid question: I've been doing home renovations for the past ~2 years, solely flipping personal properties. I started in early 2014 and have bought and sold 7 properties since. On many of these projects I've had to rent a metal-bending brake for minor exterior work Now, because I like buying poo poo I don't truly need, I'm in the market for a Van Mark brake. They're sold locally for pretty good prices relative to what I can find online but I'm not sure whether to buy the 8'6" version or 10'6" version I'm leaning more towards the shorter version. It's cheaper, lights, fits in my truck better - but I don't know if or for what I'd need that extra 2' of bending. I guess my questions is - would I regret buying the shorter version? Are there common aluminum applications I'm not aware of that require pieces longer than 8'? Still very much an amateur at this so any advice is appreciated. It's $35 to rent for a day or $2000-$2200 CAD to buy outright so maybe I should just keep renting anyway? I feel like owning the brake will both allow me to profit from renting it to friends as well as allow me to accomplish a whole new variety of side jobs
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Nov 22, 2015 17:57
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Josh Lyman posted:Is something like this actually useful, where you can just pump the handle to drive the ratchet? http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-inch-drive-mach-series-ratchet/p-00944578000P I have a much simpler version, no flex head or anything like that - you can twist the handle or swing it like a normal ratchet. It comes in handy sometimes but you really can't build a whole lot of torque with it. I think I prefer my zero-degree ratchet, honestly.
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Nov 22, 2015 18:14
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Josh Lyman posted:Is something like this actually useful, where you can just pump the handle to drive the ratchet? http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-inch-drive-mach-series-ratchet/p-00944578000P AS SEEN ON TV You'd lose a lot of power with it. Before there were cordless screwdriver drills, there was a long-handled reverse-ratchet screwdriver that was the bees knees.
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Nov 22, 2015 18:20
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Robawesome posted:I have a quick and fairly stupid question: You would have to rent it 57 times, to break even. Do you really want to even bother with a rental contract? What happens when someone breaks it, it gets stolen, or they just don't return it or pay. Do you use it 57 days in a year?
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Nov 22, 2015 20:30
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TheBigBad posted:You would have to rent it 57 times, to break even. Do you really want to even bother with a rental contract? What happens when someone breaks it, it gets stolen, or they just don't return it or pay. Do you use it 57 days in a year? There's basically one guy who I'd be lending it to, whom I trust very much to take care of it. I'm not so worried about recouping the cost through rentals. The appeal to me is more both not having to worry if the town rental is available + in good condition when I need it and being able to do jobs I otherwise wouldn't be able to take on without the hassle of renting and returning. Say I end up building a deck for somebody whom I notice could benefit from some window flashing, that's money I wouldn't otherwise earn and would mentally attribute towards the purchase Robawesome fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Nov 22, 2015 |
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Nov 22, 2015 20:34
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Josh Lyman posted:Is something like this actually useful, where you can just pump the handle to drive the ratchet? http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-inch-drive-mach-series-ratchet/p-00944578000P I had a strong urge to buy something like this after watching this Breaking Bad scene: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9NPUHYGpd8 It seems like something that would quickly end up in the "stuff that never gets used" box.
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Nov 22, 2015 21:07
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Seems like it might not be great on things that require a lot of torque. I'd just stick with a small cordless impact gun or drill
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Nov 23, 2015 00:03
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If you're eager to try one out, you can save some money by getting HF's version: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-quick-release-swivel-head-ratchet-96782.html Or Tekton's version, which I think comes from the same factory: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-1491-Q...+ratchet+wrench
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Nov 23, 2015 04:07
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I think I need to recaulk a 2nd story window (bedroom is getting down to 60F at night, I see visible cracks in the caulk outside) and my 6ft ladder doesn't have a chance of reaching. I hope I don't start a long thread war but should I get a classic style extension ladder or a new fancy multi-position ladder? I'm pretty much certain I want an extension ladder since I already have the a traditional ladder, albeit only 6ft tall. I don't want the heavy weight of a multi position ladder, and the opinions on Google seem to say that multi position ladders suck when unfolded out straight since the hinges and the rest of the ladder will all flex. In addition, I'm not to keen on the pop this, pull that, twist this etc bullshit associated with setting up a multi position ladder. The only thing I think I would be missing out would be the ability to use a multi position ladder as a scaffolding. . . but I guess I could just get another cheap 6ft ladder if I really wanted a scaffolding setup. Also, do I really need something more than a 200lb rated ladder? I just want to be cheap and the ladder is going to spend most of it's life as a trophy on my garage wall. If I were a contractor, hell yeah I would buy a Type 1AA 375lb ladder but I'm thinking a 200lb should be OK for me.
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Nov 23, 2015 14:56
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My chainsaw has died. Repair guy says it's not worth fixing the cheapo homelite. Two questions... 1. Are electric chainsaws any good? I'd love to not maintain another engine. 2. What gas saw do you recommend? I'd prefer at least 16" - my repair guys said echo ain't bad for price/performance I use it to cut down the occasional tree and cut up the occasional cord of firewood.
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Nov 23, 2015 18:10
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Let the Black Friday madness begin! Great deal on a Milwaukee M12 Drill / compact Sawzall kit w/ 2 batteries. $99 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-3-8-in-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Drill-Driver-Hackzall-Combo-Kit-2493-22/206284103 
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Nov 23, 2015 18:11
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Re ladder chat. Get the 22ft werner multi position that has a 300lb load and then you will be super happy. E: basically you will never need another ladder.. you can use it to paint to hit your roof, to do stairwell work.. Yea it'll be more than the $100 shakey rear end extension ladder.. but it will take up less space and replace your step ladder and extension ladder. Ee: if you can wait, see if it goes on sale this week, I got mine for 169. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Nov 23, 2015 |
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Nov 23, 2015 18:55
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tater_salad posted:Re ladder chat. Yep. The joint flexing thing is no big deal either as long as you're otherwise using the ladder as directed and not using it to traverse a crevasse on Everest or something. The mechanisms aren't really that fiddly either, both the Little Giant and Werner ladders have great hardware on the joints
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Nov 23, 2015 19:03
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Crotch Fruit posted:Also, do I really need something more than a 200lb rated ladder? I just want to be cheap and the ladder is going to spend most of it's life as a trophy on my garage wall. If I were a contractor, hell yeah I would buy a Type 1AA 375lb ladder but I'm thinking a 200lb should be OK for me. How much do you weigh and what is the maximum load you will ever take up with you (including tools)? Also, the higher the limit, the less likely you are to collapse one leg at the bottom rung in an uneven footing situation.
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Nov 23, 2015 19:05
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I got two multi-position ladders to help me build my workshop (one small and one large, I don't recall the exact sizes off the top of my head), and I've been quite happy with them. I don't find the mechanisms to be fiddly, and they're still light enough that I can carry them with one arm if I position it properly. The ability to set them up as stepladders is very handy for situations in which you don't have any nearby structure to prop them against or where the ground is a bit uneven and having more than two feet for support is valuable. This can come up fairly often for outdoor work. I never noticed any flexing issues with the center folding joint. Just don't set the ladder at like a 45° angle and you should be fine.
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Nov 23, 2015 19:13
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I own a 20ft extension ladder a 6ft step and a 22ft multi position. I the 20ft stays along the side of the shed.. the step comes out if I'm painting and just want a 2nd ladder for me or helper. My multi position has been used for. Gutters painting (in and out), trimming 8-10fr hedges. And it takes up about as much space as my step ladder.
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Nov 23, 2015 19:56
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Gounads posted:My chainsaw has died. Repair guy says it's not worth fixing the cheapo homelite. My wife got an electric because she's scared of gas-powered, plus it's messy. The electric is ok for trimming limbs, but for cutting up firewood, I think you'll need the old-fashioned gas saw. There was a thread about them, I think.
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Nov 23, 2015 20:10
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Echo is sold by Zoro, and they'll probably be doing a 30% off sale on cyber Monday. I've got a CS400 for light stuff, and it runs great. I've got an old husqy 261 for big poo poo.
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Nov 23, 2015 23:31
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Electric saws kick rear end if you're in range of electricity, no problem powerwise.
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Nov 24, 2015 02:52
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