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Parts Kit posted:It won't be perfect since the drain in the sink will be lower than the old drain in the wall, but would it work okay? If your drain on your sink is lower than where the hookup is, then gravity alone won't be able to drain your greywater away, unfortunately. Your washing machine has a pump to get away with this.
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Oct 29, 2015 19:52
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Your sink would not drain. Fb
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Oct 29, 2015 20:21
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Parts Kit posted:Is there any reason why I couldn't just run a hose to the old washing machine drain? It won't be perfect since the drain in the sink will be lower than the old drain in the wall, but would it work okay? Gravity doesn't work like that.
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Oct 30, 2015 01:02
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Airborne Viking posted:It won't work, if I'm understanding this line correctly.
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Oct 30, 2015 01:39
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Jadunk posted:Potentially causing other problems if your particular washer doesn't allow chocking down the discharge tube like most do and you don't bother to check? I mean it's not like I just tried some wacky poo poo on a customers house, these are instructions I've gotten from manufacturers on more than one occasion. If the manufacturer says it's okay to choke it down that IS fixing it correctly. I guess the plumbing code you follow doesn't require you to up date anything you touch to make current. But instead instructs you to be an appliance repair tech? So what code book does your area use?
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Oct 31, 2015 05:31
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I guess the plumbing code you follow doesn't require you to up date anything you touch to make current. But instead instructs you to be an appliance repair tech? So what code book does your area use? Ohhhh, you're on the code where you can't rebuild a three handle shower valve, you have to rip it out and replace it right? 
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Oct 31, 2015 19:21
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Aside from tearing open the drywall to put in a t joint, do I have any other options for getting that sink in and having it actually drain?
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Oct 31, 2015 22:25
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Parts Kit posted:Aside from tearing open the drywall to put in a t joint, do I have any other options for getting that sink in and having it actually drain? Not any reasonable/good ones. The only overkill idea (that would still be correct) would be a grinder pump in a sump under the sink that could then pump the water up to the drain pipe opening. This is the kind of thing you use when you're putting drains that are below the grade of your sanitary sewer, like in some basements. It's really way to expensive and potentially messy (if the pump breaks) to consider when some simple drywall cutting/patching with a few dollars worth of pipe and fittings would allow you to do this the correct way. Comedy option: put the sink on a platform so the drain is at the level of the existing opening, and build a set of steps to it.
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Oct 31, 2015 23:06
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Motronic posted:Comedy option: put the sink on a platform so the drain is at the level of the existing opening, and build a set of steps to it. Make the platform a pedestal and use dramatic lighting for that extra pop!
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Nov 4, 2015 10:21
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Motronic posted:Comedy option: put the sink on a platform so the drain is at the level of the existing opening, and build a set of steps to it. 
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Nov 4, 2015 16:13
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Did I just gently caress my bathtub drain? So, here's what happened. My house is a new build. Bathroom tub drain wasn't draining. Tried to get a drain snake into there, but the existing tub drain was in rough condition (cheap quality) so I just took it out, and decided to replace it altogether. It was tough to unscrew it, and the builder decided to use some sort of weird rubber cement instead of plumber's putty. I bought a new drain that looked like it'd fit. Tried to screw it in, but noticed a lot of resistance (the new drain was screwed in about halfway, at this point). Took it out, then took a close look at my old vs new drain. The builder uses some non-standard drain fixture that's only available at a specialty plumbing supplier. It's a bit stubbier. New on left, old on right.  But then I took a look at my drain's pipe threads, and noticed some damage:  Do these threads still look usable? I'm not sure if the damage to the threads was the result of my attempt to install the new drain, or from the resistance when removing the old one. Am I hosed, or can I still install a new drain without worry? This is really frustrating, because I've replaced many tub drains before without a single issue. And, yes. My drain is disgusting. I'll fix that. melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Nov 7, 2015 |
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Nov 7, 2015 19:44
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If it's the same thread, can't you just cut the excess off with a hacksaw and clean up the end?
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Nov 7, 2015 20:45
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Hold the two pieces together thread-to-thread. If the threads match up perfectly, then they are the same thread pitch and you could only screw up the old parts by cross threading them. Also, that "weird rubber cement" is silicone. Some drain fittings specify to use it instead of plumber's putty.
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Nov 7, 2015 21:05
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kid sinister posted:Hold the two pieces together thread-to-thread. If the threads match up perfectly, then they are the same thread pitch and you could only screw up the old parts by cross threading them.  New on left, old on right. But how hosed does my tub's remaining threading really look? Is it reusable, or do I have a long, expensive project ahead of me? thespaceinvader posted:If it's the same thread, can't you just cut the excess off with a hacksaw and clean up the end? melon cat fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Nov 7, 2015 |
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Nov 7, 2015 21:30
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My shower has suddenly got low pressure on both hot and cold flow. It was not a gradual loss, I was actually using it on its normal pressure when it suddenly dropped and stayed low. No other appliances or faucets running at the time. The pressure is just a dribble with the shower head removed, but the tub faucet flows normally. There's a judder/thump behind the wall when I turn it on that wasn't there before. The handle unit is kinda old and crap. Do I just need to replace the whole thing?
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Nov 7, 2015 21:57
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melon cat posted:I think they match up. The problem is the the old drain's so tarnished that it's basically disintegrating, which is making it a bit difficult to properly compare. But it also looks like the the "standard" tub drain's threading is too long for whatever the builder's installed in my bathtub. It's a pretty big difference: I meant seeing if the threads on one fit in the other. It they do, they match. It looks reusable. Clean out the old threads with a wire brush, or even with a utility knife if you're careful not to cut yourself.
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Nov 7, 2015 23:36
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Propagandalf posted:My shower has suddenly got low pressure on both hot and cold flow. It was not a gradual loss, I was actually using it on its normal pressure when it suddenly dropped and stayed low. No other appliances or faucets running at the time. The pressure is just a dribble with the shower head removed, but the tub faucet flows normally. There's a judder/thump behind the wall when I turn it on that wasn't there before. The handle unit is kinda old and crap. Do I just need to replace the whole thing? Sounds like you have a blockage between the valve and the shower head. You can brow compressed air into the shower head and out the tub spout. To dislodge what ever is stuck in there.
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Nov 8, 2015 20:25
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Propagandalf posted:My shower has suddenly got low pressure on both hot and cold flow. It was not a gradual loss, I was actually using it on its normal pressure when it suddenly dropped and stayed low. No other appliances or faucets running at the time. The pressure is just a dribble with the shower head removed, but the tub faucet flows normally. There's a judder/thump behind the wall when I turn it on that wasn't there before. The handle unit is kinda old and crap. Do I just need to replace the whole thing? Sorry if I sound patronising, but this came from experience. 
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Nov 9, 2015 20:24
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Airborne Viking posted:If you have an adjustable shower head, try fiddling with that first. You might have accidentally got it stuck between the shower/massage/stream modes. But he removed the shower head and still had low pressure. But it's not a bad suggestion.
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Nov 10, 2015 01:34
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melon cat posted:I think they match up. The problem is the the old drain's so tarnished that it's basically disintegrating, which is making it a bit difficult to properly compare. But it also looks like the the "standard" tub drain's threading is too long for whatever the builder's installed in my bathtub. It's a pretty big difference: Take the original into Home Depot/Lowe's and have an employee help you find an exact match that other one looks too tall even if the threads align.
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Nov 10, 2015 04:29
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:But he removed the shower head and still had low pressure. But it's not a bad suggestion. ah gently caress, there goes my forum cred 
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Nov 10, 2015 18:01
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Keyser S0ze posted:Take the original into Home Depot/Lowe's and have an employee help you find an exact match that other one looks too tall even if the threads align. Gotta love those builders and their interesting choice of building materials. I wonder what other cost-cutting surprises Mattamy Homes has in store, for us. 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Nov 11, 2015 |
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Nov 11, 2015 00:13
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melon cat posted:Gotta love those builders and their interesting choice of building materials. I wonder what other cost-cutting surprises Mattamy Homes has in store, for us. They moved the headstones but they didn't move the bodies?
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Nov 11, 2015 05:15
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melon cat posted:I checked Home Depot, Lowes, Home Hardware, and Rona- no dice. I ended up going to a local plumbing supplier. The supplier told me that he can order in the replacement waste strainer, but in his words, "No one has ever ordered one of these, before!" It should arrive in 2-3 days. Yeah that makes sense.....I had a hard time finding dark bronze replacements for my prior 2005 built home as well and the big stores just had a few generic sizes in chrome. I lucked out as the replacement waste strainers I ended up having to order came with plastic adapter sleeves so they would fit a variety of existing plumbing threads. I think they were Watco.
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Nov 11, 2015 14:27
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The water de-calcifier filter for my washing machine has started leaking where it connects to the piping. I replaced the filter but it still leaks and I can't figure out what's up - the connection is clean and smooth, the washers were replaced two times, I tried some thread tape just for shits and giggles and everything looks undamaged but there's a small trickle of water that I can't get rid of. It started trickling water on its own when the washing machine was in use (only when there was water flowing through the filter) and now after I hosed around with it, it is a constant slow seeping through the top connection (or rather, whichever connection is looser - I can get the bottom one tightened down hard, so top is the weakest link). This is the filter in question (or a clone thereof). It has a 3/4" thread at both ends with a rubber washer (I also tried some paperish washers, made no difference).  There seemed to be quite a bit of pressure built up in the filter - water squirted out hard when disconnecting - even if I turned off the supply (it connects straight to an elbow valve), so I thought perhaps something is wrong with the water pressure. The indicators in the boiler room showed it around 4-5 bar, though, which seems acceptable from a quick googling. I am out of ideas. What should I do here? EssOEss fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Nov 17, 2015 |
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Nov 17, 2015 21:57
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What's your water pressure like? Is it too high?
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Nov 18, 2015 05:57
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EssOEss posted:The indicators in the boiler room showed it around 4-5 bar, though, which seems acceptable from a quick googling.
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Nov 18, 2015 11:08
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For those who don't feel like doing the math* (* typing "4 bar to psi" into google), 4-5 bar is roughly 58 PSI to 73 PSI. 73 is on the upper end of normal for residential pressure in the US, but acceptable. You generally want 35 to 85 PSI static, AFAIK.
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Nov 19, 2015 03:37
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I changed my leaky kitchen faucet and my slow double sink drain this week. Looking at the water damage, I'm gonna have to change out those two pieces of plywood under my sink as well.
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Nov 19, 2015 08:52
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some texas redneck posted:For those who don't feel like doing the math* (* typing "4 bar to psi" into google), 4-5 bar is roughly 58 PSI to 73 PSI. 73 is on the upper end of normal for residential pressure in the US, but acceptable. You generally want 35 to 85 PSI static, AFAIK. Depends on the area and situation. In my area 80psi is the cutoff for requiring a PRV and expansion tank. I thought 80PSI was a universal max for pressure inside the house but maybe not! (and that's 80psi anytime, to properly check water pressure you get a gauge with a lazy arm and leave it on, often around here sometime overnight the pressure spikes up an additional 10-15 psi over the max you'll get during the day)
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Nov 20, 2015 06:56
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A question on pex piping as I'm getting ready to replace my water heater, and I think I've asked this before: Can I install pex lines above the floor? Thanks to the location of 75% of my hot water outlets, just drilling 3 quarter-sized holes in the thin walls would allow me to a run a straight line through the water heater utility closet and beneath two sets of undersink cabinets straight to kitchen and bathroom sinks. Meanwhile, I could actually place the tub hot water supply behind/underneath the tub along the floor/wall. (I almost never use hot water for washing clothes, so I'm in no hurry to figure out how to eventually fish that through the floor/wall.) Nothing would be visible unless you moved the tub and/or opened the doors below the sinks.
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Nov 22, 2015 06:16
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I want to just say "yes" and move on, but the fact that you're even asking gives me pause. Is there something in particular you're concerned about?
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Nov 22, 2015 14:34
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Propagandalf posted:My shower has suddenly got low pressure on both hot and cold flow. It was not a gradual loss, I was actually using it on its normal pressure when it suddenly dropped and stayed low. No other appliances or faucets running at the time. The pressure is just a dribble with the shower head removed, but the tub faucet flows normally. There's a judder/thump behind the wall when I turn it on that wasn't there before. The handle unit is kinda old and crap. Do I just need to replace the whole thing? Have you tried pulling the cartridge out and seeing if its pooched?
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Nov 22, 2015 17:12
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JediTalentAgent posted:A question on pex piping as I'm getting ready to replace my water heater, and I think I've asked this before: There shouldn't be a problem unless you have metal studding and are concerned about the sharp edge from drilling cutting through the pex over time
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Nov 22, 2015 17:16
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Modi1024 posted:There shouldn't be a problem unless you have metal studding and are concerned about the sharp edge from drilling cutting through the pex over time If that's the case they have grommets for exactly this purpose, which are required to be used for electrical (so they aren't hard to find).
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Nov 22, 2015 17:24
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Motronic posted:I want to just say "yes" and move on, but the fact that you're even asking gives me pause. Agreed, it's an odd question, but given how everything runs below the floor right now I wasn't sure if it's better/worse/acceptable to have as much of the pipe above/on the floor as I could. Also, I didn't know if due to the nature of Pex being plasticky and running along/close to the floor as opposed to in the underbelly if it is sort of more prone to inviting rodents to gnaw on it. (A dry, warm house is probably more comfortable than a cold, damp underbelly) Does the risk/benefit of having it above the floor make potential leaks more damaging, or does having it above the floor make identifying leaks and breaks so much easier that in the long run the damage is lessened.
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Nov 23, 2015 20:42
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JediTalentAgent posted:Agreed, it's an odd question, but given how everything runs below the floor right now I wasn't sure if it's better/worse/acceptable to have as much of the pipe above/on the floor as I could. You can do it legally but i'd support it ever 32 inches . And it can't hook directly to a water heater. You have to use a copper or stainless steel flex line. (18" minimum length of flex)
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Nov 24, 2015 01:10
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Only if you're in a UPC state. In other states, it's a good idea if you have a atmospheric draft gas water heater, but it's not needed otherwise.
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Nov 24, 2015 06:26
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You can do it legally but i'd support it ever 32 inches . And it can't hook directly to a water heater. You have to use a copper or stainless steel flex line. (18" minimum length of flex) Strangely enough, I don't think I even had that before. Both the hot and cold plastic PB pipes I think connected with pretty short copper connections.of about under 10 inches each to the water heater. I bought a premade pex-to-water heater connector with a shut off valve that seems to measure exactly 18" from the tip of the pex fitting to the end of the connection to the water heater on the other.. Other than that, I only have a pair of 15" copper flex pipes I got in a WH install kit on clearance. It'll probably be just as cheap and easy to buy another 18" pipe if need be than to try to figure out a way to salvage those. In the long run, though, I might hold off on repiping the old stuff with Pex because I figured out a reason why putting it above the floor might be an issue: I'm still doing some on and off floor repairs. Putting it above the floor is going to require removing it somehow any time the need would arise to do something with the floor. Doubtful I'd have to any work again any time soon, but it's enough of an issue to make me seriously reconsider. I'm still probably going to use a length of Pex to transition between the existing PB lines and the flex pipe on the water heater, though. It was pretty difficult getting the old connectors to come off the old water heater and I'm not sure if everything will fit right with the new heater's location without making some sort of adjustment to the PB tubing, anyway.
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Nov 24, 2015 07:34
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I think one last question on Pex. I have crimper that does both 1/2 and 3/4" and a go-no-go tool. On all my 1/2" pex connections I've done in the last few months, the tool seems to have been working as it should: Go slides over okay, no-go doesn't get on at all. But with the 3/4"s I've just done, all the GO checks seem to pass, even the No-Go seem to pass when I come down at a 90deg from two different sides of the crimp. But I can get the No-Go to fail if I rotate it while trying to slide it over and/or put a different amount of force on trying to slide it on or come in at different angles. I can tell that with I'm scraping the crimp ring with the tool when using the No-Go test, so I'm not sure if maybe I'm making it 'fail' because I'm applying force and making it fail, the tolerances of the tool might be a little bad (I might grab a second Go-NoGo while I'm out to see how they compare), or since I'm not sure about the adjustments issues grab a pocket crimper just for these and start over on and see how they work. However, it looks like the plastic fittings seem to have this happen with much less force than the metal fittings require to have them fail. edit: I bought a new Go-No-Go: Old tool had separate Go and No-Go for each size gauges: Random fails. New One has single Go and No-Go for each size: Everything seems to pass. I'm going to go with the new tool's judgement, I guess, but I wonder if there's just a slight defect in the first tool or that I widened the gauge of it slightly when I forced it to check the No-Go and it screwed up every measure after that. JediTalentAgent fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Nov 25, 2015 |
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Nov 24, 2015 20:54
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