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There's nothing different so it's the same level of difficulty. Only thing is don't rotate the torque converter on the trans once you remove the engine since you have to do it back up through the service port on the engine block. If you move it and the bolt hole is no longer aligned with the service port, you'll have to have some fun with rotating the wheels to get the torque converter to spin to the correct position. The flex plate on the engine side you can rotate into position using the crank. Once you get one bolt attached you just rotate it around using the crank to get all the bolt holes accessible and tightened.
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Nov 19, 2015 22:01
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Sounds good. I probably will not start work on this until next year. I am parking my Toyota pickup, and have a 96 Accord I need to get running (fuel pump issues). My Altima sucks when its slippery out so this will be my only bad weather car till then. I will definitely have more questions.
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Nov 19, 2015 22:27
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My wife called this morning and her 2012 base model Impreza popped the check engine, ABS, traction control, and AT oil temp lights on her way to work. Any ideas what that combo means? It'll be this afternoon before I can get out these with a scan tool and pull the actual codes.
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Nov 20, 2015 15:09
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The Jabberwocky posted:My wife called this morning and her 2012 base model Impreza popped the check engine, ABS, traction control, and AT oil temp lights on her way to work. Any ideas what that combo means? It'll be this afternoon before I can get out these with a scan tool and pull the actual codes. I think all Imprezas and their sub models past a certain year do that when any code is thrown. I bet the cruise control lit up too, it's just going in to gimp mode because it found something wrong. Could be anything.
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Nov 20, 2015 18:41
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Gigi Galli posted:I think all Imprezas and their sub models past a certain year do that when any code is thrown. I bet the cruise control lit up too, it's just going in to gimp mode because it found something wrong. Could be anything. That makes sense. My wife came from an 08 outback, which just threw the cruise light on with the CEL. The Jabberwocky fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Nov 20, 2015 |
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Nov 20, 2015 19:15
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Is there a recommended code reader? I've been meaning to pick one up.
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Nov 20, 2015 20:27
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Is there a recommended code reader? I've been meaning to pick one up. I use an ELM327 and Torque on my phone. Works pretty good for the price. http://www.amazon.com/ELM327-Wirele...ords=obd+elm327
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Nov 20, 2015 20:47
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The Jabberwocky posted:My wife called this morning and her 2012 base model Impreza popped the check engine, ABS, traction control, and AT oil temp lights on her way to work. Any ideas what that combo means? It'll be this afternoon before I can get out these with a scan tool and pull the actual codes.
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Nov 20, 2015 23:42
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Okay so the codes are p2764 and p0700 which seem to be a solenoid in the cvt? Is it safe to drive home/to the mechanic's or should I tow it?
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Nov 21, 2015 00:49
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Does anyone have any recommendations on good, not-too-expensive rims for winter tires for a 2016 WRX? The Sparcos are nice, but I want to spend less than $140 per rim, optimally. I'd like something good and don't want to just throw steel on there.
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Nov 23, 2015 00:21
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Go find used OEM STI wheels. 5x114 bolt pattern so you've got a decent amount of options, that or look for used wheels as they're winter wheels anyway and you want to stay low cost.
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Nov 23, 2015 00:26
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Join some facebook sales groups and get something cheap as hell off there.
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Nov 23, 2015 01:14
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I got a 2010 Forester XT a few months ago and the temp just dropped to about 25F for the first time this year. When I went to start me car today the engine seemed really loud in the cabin and I was getting some really loud engine noise when driving between 1500 and 2500rpm. It sort of went away after driving for about 15 minutes but every so often I would get some noise again that almost sounded like an exhaust leak or something on the driveshaft. Should I be concerned or is this somewhat normal for a cold start? I've never owned a Subaru or a turbo car before so I wasn't sure what to expect. I was going to take it to my usual garage soon for an oil change anyway and figured I'd ask them to see if they saw anything while it was there but wanted to check here with you guys. There seem to be a few posts about this issue on the Forester forums that say it's fairly normal but who knows.
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Nov 23, 2015 17:34
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Get it checked by your mechanic, but Subaru's are loud and unhappy sounding in the cold. They sound like well used tractors in the cold. For 99% of horrifying noises from a Subaru on cold startups, it's nothing and don't worry about it. It's the nature of the beast. If those noises don't go away, then you got a problem.
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Nov 23, 2015 17:49
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Subaru sound guide: Cold start, +20C and above: WHANG WHANG brrbrbbrb toot toot toot toot Cold start, +10C: WHANG WHANG WHANG WHANG brrb brrb brrb brrb Cold start, 0C: WHANG WHANG WHANG BZZZZZZZZZ buzza buzza brrb brbbbbb ... brrrBBBB brrb brrb Cold start, -10 to -20C: WHANG WHANG BZZZZZZ ZZZZAAAARRRPP buh buh buh buh buh buh buh buh BZZZZZ buh buhbuh BZZZZZ Cold start, below -20C: WHANG... WHANG WHANG... WHANG. ZZZZRRRP??? buHBUHBUHBUHBUHBUHBUHBUH buh buh buh buh buh WHUNK buh buh buh WHUNK For every 100,000 km of ownership shift this sound guide upward 10 degrees. For 10W30 and thicker shift it downward 10 degrees. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Nov 23, 2015 |
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Nov 23, 2015 22:00
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The transmission behavior roughly follows the engine behavior too, except at anything below 10 deg 1st and 2nd gear are roughly "LOL GOOD LUCK" I don't know C but I can say from Chicago that if you get to 0F and below, you will experience an entirely new level of fuckery. Including your instrumentation freezing, your power steering making a noise straight out of hell itself, and the car just kind of going back to sleep because it's too much effort to be running.
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Nov 23, 2015 23:26
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si posted:The transmission behavior roughly follows the engine behavior too, except at anything below 10 deg 1st and 2nd gear are roughly "LOL GOOD LUCK" Supposed to be in the single digits at night here most of the week. Seriously considering the engine block heater. Looks like a pain in the rear end to install though.
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Nov 23, 2015 23:35
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It has been a long time, Subaru Thread. I'm upset about my car, '09 WRX. I've just learned that the popping sound coming from the clutch pedal is likely a serious issue that plagues MY08-10. Apparently the spot welds holding on some of the clutch pedal assembly can break. I need to get under the hood to confirm that this is the case, but if it is, the ultimate outcome is the clutch becoming non-functional. Subaru knows of the issue and extended the warranty on this issue to a whopping 4/48, but they only did this last year, when almost all cars with the issue are outside the 4 year window. They basically just said "if you paid to get this fixed in the first 4/48, we'll reimburse you". The proper fix is apparently $1000+ so I have no idea who would have paid out of pocket that much to get a squeaky/poppy clutch pedal fixed. Fortunately, it seems you can work around the issue by drilling out any failed welds and bolting instead.
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Nov 24, 2015 02:55
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perabyte posted:Supposed to be in the single digits at night here most of the week. Seriously considering the engine block heater. Looks like a pain in the rear end to install though. If you're comfortable draining and re-filling the cooling system you can put a circulating heater in. It can be a bit of work but you don't have to access a freeze plug like most block heaters. I only needed about 2 hours with it on to have warm enough to start defrosting the windshield at startup (this was a 750w heater). You'd get away with a smaller one, since 0F is pretty much the average high here for December and January sometimes  .
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Nov 24, 2015 03:11
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Drain and refill of coolant is probably the hardest part of nstalling an oem heater. There's a big hex plug right on the bottom of the block and the heater screws in there.
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Nov 24, 2015 04:24
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Mr. Powers posted:It has been a long time, Subaru Thread. I'm upset about my car, '09 WRX. I've just learned that the popping sound coming from the clutch pedal is likely a serious issue that plagues MY08-10. Apparently the spot welds holding on some of the clutch pedal assembly can break. I need to get under the hood to confirm that this is the case, but if it is, the ultimate outcome is the clutch becoming non-functional. Take it to the dealer. A friend had this issue with his wrx that was well out of warranty and soa good willed him the repair.
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Nov 24, 2015 12:50
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So I still haven't figured out if this noise is normal. You can hear it really well in this video. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4-hn9Rft7kY I don't know how to describe other than a sort of fluttering sound.
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Nov 24, 2015 16:36
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I just moved to Aurora, CO, in time for last Friday's dusting, and I definitely had some fun goofing around in a few empty parking lots with TCS off.   Anyway, I've been getting really good gas mileage over the past week, even while I was up in the mountains over the weekend. Is this normal in the higher altitudes? For comparison: I'm used to 20-22 mpg in Atlanta, while I turned in almost 26 mpg yesterday. I have the Cobb SF intake and Accessport running the 91 LWG OTS tune.
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Nov 24, 2015 20:08
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TheFargate posted:Take it to the dealer. A friend had this issue with his wrx that was well out of warranty and soa good willed him the repair. I called the local dealer yesterday and the guy that normally handles that type of thing is out for the holidays, so I need to call back next week. I want to check the welds first, though, because I don't have any brake pedal movement.
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Nov 24, 2015 20:27
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2001 OBW - needed to replace the license plate lights last night and went to the local store to pick up some bulbs. The guy told me to purchase the Sylvania 194 bulbs which says 14v 4.6w, but the FSM says 12v 5w. I installed them anyway and they work fine but wondering if I will run into any issues?
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Nov 24, 2015 23:45
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Mr. Powers posted:I called the local dealer yesterday and the guy that normally handles that type of thing is out for the holidays, so I need to call back next week. I want to check the welds first, though, because I don't have any brake pedal movement. You can remove the windshield cowl and wiper assembly, which is not terrible to do, and see two broken spot welds about 1/3 of the way in from the driver side on the firewall.
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Nov 25, 2015 14:00
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Mr. Powers posted:I called the local dealer yesterday and the guy that normally handles that type of thing is out for the holidays, so I need to call back next week. I want to check the welds first, though, because I don't have any brake pedal movement. Yeah, when he took to the dealer they said nope, he called SOA and they said ok. So definitely give that route a shot.
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Nov 25, 2015 14:36
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Frankenstein posted:You can remove the windshield cowl and wiper assembly, which is not terrible to do, and see two broken spot welds about 1/3 of the way in from the driver side on the firewall. That was my plan. I have to do oil, trans, P/S, and diff fluids, plus serpentine belt maybe this weekend (at least some of that), so I was planning to check that way. If they aren't going to cover it, I'll just bolt it instead, because if I'm spending $1000ish on something clutch related, it better include a new clutch.
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Nov 25, 2015 19:49
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Late to the game but TPMS chat: I have a second set of rims (and sensors) for my winter tires and use an ATEQ QuickSet TPMS Tool for swapping the IDs with the car. It's easily configured via software on a Windows PC. You can configure up to four vehicles, each with a set of summer and winter tires; once programmed you just plug it into the OBDII port and press the button that indicates which set you're installing. The caveat is you must know each sensor's ID. You can read the currently loaded IDs from the vehicle but you'll either need to scan the other set or record the IDs prior to mounting the sensors in rims. To scan the sensors, I use an ATEQ VT30 Reader. I've used this tool with both foreign and domestic vehicles with success. These two tools combined will allow you to manage TPMS tire sets. Frankenstein fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Nov 25, 2015 |
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Nov 25, 2015 22:30
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So is there an easier way or getting oil filters out that doesnt end with a hammer and chisel and oil in my nose. Sick of the massive mess it makes and theres no room to get a filter wrench in.
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Nov 26, 2015 09:40
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:So is there an easier way or getting oil filters out that doesnt end with a hammer and chisel and oil in my nose. Sick of the massive mess it makes and theres no room to get a filter wrench in. This style of filter wrench and a 
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Nov 26, 2015 10:38
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:So is there an easier way or getting oil filters out that doesnt end with a hammer and chisel and oil in my nose. Sick of the massive mess it makes and theres no room to get a filter wrench in.  That or what Power shift posted works really well. You could also try some of the filter brands that have a 1" nut on them to make life easier next time.
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Nov 26, 2015 12:23
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I used one of the type that Powershift posted until I started using Purolators. It works pretty well.
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Nov 26, 2015 16:40
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Equal length headers! Lol after getting them installed i have plenty of room
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Nov 26, 2015 17:52
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Powershift posted:This style of filter wrench and a Chiwie posted:
These look awesome, just need to get one of these + one of those valve things and I'm set. TheFargate posted:Equal length headers! Lol after getting them installed i have plenty of room the rumble and the weirdness are the things that make subaru, subaru 
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Nov 27, 2015 01:16
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While I do miss the rumble, I cant really argue with the torque gains.
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Nov 27, 2015 02:33
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Can I get 300 HP out of an EJ205 with an STI cam, STI rods, stroker pistons, and stock heads/cams?
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Nov 27, 2015 22:33
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With a TD04 maybe like 235 whp.
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Nov 27, 2015 23:27
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Or get 300 whp from an EJ207 for cheaper. Unless you found all those parts for free, I guess.
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Nov 27, 2015 23:34
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jamal posted:With a TD04 maybe like 235 whp. I would be using all the parts from my Hybrid build. TD05H-18GXT8CM^2 - Blouch 18G-XT 8cm turbine housing 1000 CC ID injectors Invida 3 inch up pipe and down pipe turbo inlet pipe. and so on.
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Nov 27, 2015 23:43
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