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Work for an automotive supplier that has a full garage with lifts and everything you could need to run dynos/vehicle fleet. It's the only reason I bother changing my own oil, tbh
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Nov 24, 2015 22:28
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Why do service manuals always warn so heavily against turning the crank counter clockwise? Just the timing belt being liable to skip a tooth?
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Nov 24, 2015 22:37
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ROFLburger posted:Why do service manuals always warn so heavily against turning the crank counter clockwise? Just the timing belt being liable to skip a tooth? Probably more the fact that CCW could loosen the crank bolt (at least on a liability level of likelihood). Which you generally won't wanna do while loaded up with accessory belts.
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Nov 24, 2015 23:09
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I'm looking to retrofit a one wire alternator on my tractor, a Massey Ferguson 65 diesel, to replace the non functional and now seized generator. I am wondering if there is a better choice than a GM CS130 case alternator, they seem reasonably sized and I found one on Summit with a V-belt pulley. I would like a nice and small case for ease of mounting. Any alternator should provide more output than the old generator ever could have and I only plan on running a few LED floodlights off the thing anyway. I have a welder and access to a mill if need be so making it fit shouldn't be too bad. Thanks for any comments or suggestions.
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Nov 24, 2015 23:45
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SpeedFreek posted:I'm looking to retrofit a one wire alternator on my tractor, a Massey Ferguson 65 diesel, to replace the non functional and now seized generator. I am wondering if there is a better choice than a GM CS130 case alternator, they seem reasonably sized and I found one on Summit with a V-belt pulley. I would like a nice and small case for ease of mounting. Any alternator should provide more output than the old generator ever could have and I only plan on running a few LED floodlights off the thing anyway.
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Nov 24, 2015 23:53
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StormDrain posted:CS130 would be fine, I'd even go for a Delco10si if you find one for cheap at the junkyard. Looks a little bit fat to me, the generator is kinda on the skinny side and I don't want to have to modify my snowplow lifting frame.
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Nov 24, 2015 23:59
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ROFLburger posted:Why do service manuals always warn so heavily against turning the crank counter clockwise? Just the timing belt being liable to skip a tooth? You could unprime your oil pump, allowing operation for a few seconds without oil when you start it. If the engine has a timing chain, the slack being on the wrong side shock loads the timing system when it is sucked out, etc.
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Nov 25, 2015 01:12
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Car: 1995 Ford mustang with t5 manual trans Trying to put a new(to me) transmission in. This is my first ever transmission swap. It's up as high as it needs to go and the tip of the input shaft is past the throwout bearing and now I could use some guidance as to how to get the input shaft to line up into clutch disc. What would be the best way to line the splines up between the input shaft and the clutch disc? What's a good way for me to SEE what in the hell I'm doing in there? I caught myself blindly crashing(not literally crashing, mind you) the input shaft into the clutch disc and thought maybe I should ask smart people before I break something. Just in case this becomes relevant, the trans is sitting on a harbor freight transmission jack.
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Nov 25, 2015 02:10
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I'm not sure how practical this is - but turning the driveshaft flange to make the splines of the input shaft spin might be helpful. I've spend HOURS on some occasions trying to line the transmission to the clutch. Other times - it drops right the gently caress in and I feel like it shouldn't have been that easy.
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Nov 25, 2015 02:19
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I want to paint my wheels a ridiculous color like bright green or purple or something. Of course all photos that I can see are of cars that are spectacularly clean. If we're being realistic, I know I'm not going to wash the wheels any more than once a month, and even that's pushing it. Is the brake dust going to make a vivid color look awful? If so, is there some sort of spray I can put over the wheel that will prevent the brake dust from accumulating, or at least make it easy to hose off? If all of that is a negative, am I just stuck with black as the only color that won't show dust?
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Nov 25, 2015 04:31
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Even black wheels show dust - it just appears to be brown instead of black. If you want your wheels to look good washing them regularly is just a thing you have to do.
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Nov 25, 2015 05:15
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I just bought a 2015 Nissan Pulsar SSS. I reas reading the specifications sheet (http://www.nissan.com.au/~/media/Files/Brochures/Specifications/2015-04/Pulsar_eSpecs.ashx) and it says to use 95RON fuel. The compression ratio of the engine is 9.5:1 which I'm led to believe is an important factor when deciding what fuel to use. 95RON fuel is much more expensive than regular so I was just wondering if it was absolutely necessary to use it.
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Nov 25, 2015 10:09
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spog posted:
No-one got any thoughts on whether this is a good/bad idea?
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Nov 25, 2015 10:10
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It's an idea. Seems like it's designed to prevent sun fade and destruction of a soft top for a convertible. It's not going to wreck your car and if you live in an environment like Arizona then it may be worthwhile.
tater_salad fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Nov 25, 2015 |
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Nov 25, 2015 14:03
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/\/\/\ Spog's in Britain, which isn't much like Arizona.spog posted:No-one got any thoughts on whether this is a good/bad idea? A cover would keep birdshit and snow off of your convertible. But, it's a Saab, built by Swedes who have some experience of winter. I doubt a bit of snow is going to hurt your car.
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Nov 25, 2015 15:25
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spog posted:No-one got any thoughts on whether this is a good/bad idea? I had one for a Miata, rarely used it. Just something else to take up trunk space that I forgot to use. And mildew when I put it away wet.
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Nov 25, 2015 15:30
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fuckpot posted:I just bought a 2015 Nissan Pulsar SSS. I reas reading the specifications sheet (http://www.nissan.com.au/~/media/Files/Brochures/Specifications/2015-04/Pulsar_eSpecs.ashx) and it says to use 95RON fuel. The compression ratio of the engine is 9.5:1 which I'm led to believe is an important factor when deciding what fuel to use. It's a few bucks more per fillup. Give your car what it requires. It's probably not strictly necessary, but your power and fuel economy will go down as your car tries to cope with the fuel it's not designed for, negating all the savings. Plus, you bought the sporty version, so I'm guessing you want the extra power.
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Nov 25, 2015 15:31
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fuckpot posted:I just bought a 2015 Nissan Pulsar SSS. I reas reading the specifications sheet (http://www.nissan.com.au/~/media/Files/Brochures/Specifications/2015-04/Pulsar_eSpecs.ashx) and it says to use 95RON fuel. The compression ratio of the engine is 9.5:1 which I'm led to believe is an important factor when deciding what fuel to use. Here in the USA it's $2 USD more per fillup to not have your engine hate you, and you be frustrated with your cars performance. You bought the top of the line car for its model, and are now surprised by increased maintenance costs? Looking at MSRP in Sydney (Postcode 1235) it's $23, $25, $30k for the three models, yours being $30k.
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Nov 25, 2015 15:41
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Some quick research puts it at a whopping $15AU per 50L tank for 95 vs regular (that's equivalents of 90 and 87 AKI octane for us yanks). And like has been said using the lower octane will reduce your fuel economy, so you'll fill up more often, which offsets some of the savings. Assuming you fill up once a week that's about $5-700 a year. Look for savings elsewhere.
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Nov 25, 2015 15:59
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SpeedFreek posted:Looks a little bit fat to me, the generator is kinda on the skinny side and I don't want to have to modify my snowplow lifting frame. Fair enough! I replaced my 10si with a CS144 which was a touch bigger and I assumed the 130 was nearer in size. The 130 is fine in all regards and parts are easy to source if you need to rebuild it ever.
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Nov 25, 2015 16:03
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Geoj posted:Even black wheels show dust - it just appears to be brown instead of black. My dad ordered his C6 with the "Competition Grey" wheels - basically a gunmetal color. The only difference between them clean and dirty was they looked a bit shinier before they got covered in brake dust.
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Nov 25, 2015 16:23
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Update on my 97 Ranger - I scanned the codes this morning before dropping it off at my local mechanic. 0304 - misfire in cylinder 4. That's the same sparkplug that was broken when I bought the truck back in May, sparkplug was replaced. It's been replaced again, along with some other work that I don't fully understand because I can't fully understand my mechanic on the phone. I actually really enjoy the language barrier, it makes the whole spending-money thing seem somehow exotic and interesting. Anyway, if this problem happens again I'm going to assume it's not coincidence and something is going wrong with the ignition system. For future planning purposes, I priced out a set of sparkplugs and wires on Rockauto, came to a little under $100 with shipping and I figure this is something I could do myself. I know nothing about ignition coils, but the pictures on Rockauto show 6-pack looking things to go with my 6-cylinder engine, so I assume if I wanted to replace that, too, I"d need one. For about $50, which seems reasonable. Rockauto sells a wide variety of parts they say will fit my car, including "economy", "standard", and "premium" coils, with not much difference in price. Would a "premium" coil do anything noticeable for my engine over a "standard" one? Do you need a premium coil if you're running platinum or other "premium" plugs?
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Nov 25, 2015 20:17
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Enourmo posted:Some quick research puts it at a whopping $15AU per 50L tank for 95 vs regular (that's equivalents of 90 and 87 AKI octane for us yanks). And like has been said using the lower octane will reduce your fuel economy, so you'll fill up more often, which offsets some of the savings. I always thought that if the ECU is pulling timing to correct for lower octane fuel then knock/engine damage has already occurred.
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Nov 25, 2015 23:03
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ExecuDork posted:Update on my 97 Ranger - I scanned the codes this morning before dropping it off at my local mechanic. 0304 - misfire in cylinder 4. That's the same sparkplug that was broken when I bought the truck back in May, sparkplug was replaced. It's been replaced again, along with some other work that I don't fully understand because I can't fully understand my mechanic on the phone. I actually really enjoy the language barrier, it makes the whole spending-money thing seem somehow exotic and interesting. Anyway, if this problem happens again I'm going to assume it's not coincidence and something is going wrong with the ignition system. You can probably find a local parts shop to supply all those for you. For now, the easiest thing to do is swap cable from #4 to something else and see if the problem follows. There's always an option for shipping your parts from Rockauto or Amazon Warehouse to the american side and doing the swap in the parking lot on your next trip to harbour freight.
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Nov 25, 2015 23:04
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My mechanic thought it was burning oil. The blackened, scorched plug he pulled out seems consistent with that. Good idea on moving the wires, I'll have to remember that if it happens again.
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Nov 25, 2015 23:31
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SpeedFreek posted:I always thought that if the ECU is pulling timing to correct for lower octane fuel then knock/engine damage has already occurred. Don't quote me on this, but I think there are sensors that can tell what fuel/octane you are using. That's how cars (that are made for it) can switch between regular gas and E85 (with a higher octane) without issues. Or even with added performance thanks to advanced timing. I'm basing this on what Mighty Car Mods did with Super Gramps, so take that as you will.
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Nov 25, 2015 23:43
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Uthor posted:Don't quote me on this, but I think there are sensors that can tell what fuel/octane you are using. That's how cars (that are made for it) can switch between regular gas and E85 (with a higher octane) without issues. Or even with added performance thanks to advanced timing. Yeah without issues, unless it senses it wrong and pumps out the wrong fuel map and runs like garbage, an intermittent issue on Tundras.
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Nov 25, 2015 23:58
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SpeedFreek posted:I always thought that if the ECU is pulling timing to correct for lower octane fuel then knock/engine damage has already occurred. Nope! You need some pretty severe, unmitigated knocking to cause any permanent kind of damage. Modern efi is very efficient and quick to nip knocking in the bud. I've seen carburetted engines get mild pinging from incorrect fuel choice that were completely undamaged. StormDrain posted:Yeah without issues, unless it senses it wrong and pumps out the wrong fuel map and runs like garbage, an intermittent issue on Tundras. Not A Thing in Australasia from what I've seen, someone correct me if I'm wrong. Really if he wanted to save fuel he shouldn't have bought a loving turbo hot hatch sportycar thing. It's too late to nitpick fuel grade prices when he had the opportunity to buy the briggs & stratton model and save a good seven grand in the first place.
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Nov 26, 2015 00:32
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I have a odd electrical issue on my 2010 Chevy Traverses I could use a hand troubleshooting. The heater/ac vent directional dial (floor, defrost, etc) does not adjust the air flow direction and stays constantly on floor and body. The only other electrical issue I have is the driver side window doesn't work randomly and that is always fixed by turning the car on and off. The ac/heater intensity dial, system on and off, rear and recirculated switches are all working fine too.
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Nov 26, 2015 02:12
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Is your battery okay? The Traverse has the battery in one of the weirdest spots ever - it's in the floor behind the passenger seat. Spill too many sodas there and you'll get crazy electrical/ground issues. That all being said - the Traverse has a blend door actuator thing for the mode dial. This is a motor that moves a flap inside the heater box. This thing does fail a lot in them. Sometimes the door itself warps too.
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Nov 26, 2015 02:58
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0toShifty posted:Is your battery okay? The battery is brand new, just had it replaced 3 months ago. Is the actuator easy to access as I'm not overly familiar with maintenance on this car?
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Nov 26, 2015 04:05
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That's not maintenance. That's repair.
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Nov 26, 2015 04:12
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Geirskogul posted:That's not maintenance. That's repair. Someone's not familiar with Chevy mode doors I see. 
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Nov 26, 2015 04:21
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Had an oops.  I don't know any body shops in Peoria, so I'm just going to take it wherever State Farm sends me. Is there anything I can do to make sure the repair is done correct?
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Nov 26, 2015 04:56
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Take it to a body shop within State Farm's network. At least that way you get a lifetime warranty. Also ask the local VW dealer who they use for a body shop, and see if they're within SF's network. I'd insist upon an OEM headlamp housing as well.
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Nov 26, 2015 05:13
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Thanks. I've had issues with the only VW dealer within 50 miles, so I probably won't be calling them. Maybe I'll ask the import car mechanic I've gone to a couple of times, they seem on the up and up.
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Nov 26, 2015 05:46
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Hello, I have a question: I'm driving a Peugeut 207 Access which doesn't have Bluetooth support. My iPhone is a bit beat up, the lightening pin reciever is unreliable so listening to music through the lightening cable isn't great. Is there anything I can buy to have my car speakers pick up my phone's bluetooth signal to play my music wirelessly? Cheers mes enfants.
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Nov 26, 2015 10:33
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There's these small FM transmitters that only carry a few meters, I've only seen them with a regular 3,5mm jack but I'm sure some enterprising Chinese manufacturers have made one with bluetooth. e: for example: http://m.aliexpress.com/item/32367519312.html
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Nov 26, 2015 10:42
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ICHIBAHN posted:Hello, I have a question: I'm driving a Peugeut 207 Access which doesn't have Bluetooth support. My iPhone is a bit beat up, the lightening pin reciever is unreliable so listening to music through the lightening cable isn't great. Is there anything I can buy to have my car speakers pick up my phone's bluetooth signal to play my music wirelessly? Cheers mes enfants. quote:The auxiliary RCA audio connector located in the glove box also lets you listen to mobile audio equipment Do you have one of those?
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Nov 26, 2015 10:45
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Rythe posted:The battery is brand new, just had it replaced 3 months ago. Is the actuator easy to access as I'm not overly familiar with maintenance on this car? Check it out. Looks fairly easy except for getting those screws - they're T20 torx. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzHThw8z3Ok
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Nov 26, 2015 13:43
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