|
KS posted:I have a PA system mounted in a gear rack. There are 6 devices (wireless mic receivers, etc) with AC to DC power bricks, and it makes a mess because they take up all the space on the rack mounted PDU. Most professional racks I've worked on go with the last option there. Unless the devices are specifically built to power chain (like some Shure wireless receivers are) you're probably best off avoiding aftermarket solutions for reliability reasons. I could be wrong, and there could be something out there for specifically this purpose, but you'd be trading a bunch of transformers, each with their own surge protection and voltage regulation, for one point of failure.
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2015 07:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 19:02 |
|
|
PowerSquid, the one with the conditioner: http://www.amazon.com/Accell-D080B-008K-PowerSquid-Protector-Conditioner/dp/B0055YB7IA
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2015 02:04
|
|
|
Any recommendations for an Audacity alternative? I use Ableton for my main DAW but I like to use Audacity for quick destructive edits and splicing. But it’s kind of slow and the interface isn’t great and I’ve been having audio output issues lately (weird popping/dropouts; sample rate is not the issue…). Would gladly pay for something relatively cheap (~$100 or less)! admiraldennis fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Oct 21, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2015 01:42
|
|
|
I've tried a bunch of stereo editors and have never found anything I like as much as Sound Forge. It's out on Mac now too, which is nice.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2015 02:14
|
|
|
There's also Presonus Studio One Prime which is a free version of their full DAW, no idea how good it is at audio slicing but it's worth a shot.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2015 04:46
|
|
|
admiraldennis posted:Any recommendations for an Audacity alternative? If you're on a Mac, Amadeus is great for destructive editing. Does everything I need it to, doesn't bog down my machine (mid-2009 macbook pro) and has some nice extras like decent spectrograms and a really usable pop/click repair tool.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2015 18:31
|
|
|
Ferrous Wheel posted:If you're on a Mac, Amadeus is great for destructive editing. Does everything I need it to, doesn't bog down my machine (mid-2009 macbook pro) and has some nice extras like decent spectrograms and a really usable pop/click repair tool. Nice!! Ya I'm on a Mac - sorry forgot to mention. This looks perfect; I'll try it out tonight.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2015 19:39
|
|
|
admiraldennis posted:Nice!! Ya I'm on a Mac - sorry forgot to mention. This looks perfect; I'll try it out tonight. Twisted Wave and Triumph are the other two wave editors I hear mentioned a lot for Mac, though I haven't done anything on either. If you do end up considering Sound Forge, though, be aware that the Mac version is kind of terrible compared to the PC. They aren't really similar programs.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2015 08:20
|
|
|
MockingQuantum posted:Twisted Wave and Triumph are the other two wave editors I hear mentioned a lot for Mac, though I haven't done anything on either. If you do end up considering Sound Forge, though, be aware that the Mac version is kind of terrible compared to the PC. They aren't really similar programs. Good recs, thanks! I'll compare all of these.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2015 23:14
|
|
|
Anyone here familiar with MML and Yamaha FM synthesis? I've gotten into SiON MML recently, and I want to try my hand at making FM music. I'm a big fan of video game music like the kind you see on the NES, the Genesis, PC-98 and most anything in the OPX line. I've played around with VMML a little, but the details of some things kind of escape me. I know that there's such a thing as a "table" - in this case, it's a table that represents...something. I don't really know what they're for or I would use one; all I really know is that I can mess with the pitch and volume of a note somewhat, but that's not very useful to me. Maybe it's because I'm untrained - is there some sort of series on analyzing FM tracks and what techniques are used in them? I'm also wondering if there's a known "list" of patches used in things like the Genesis and some PC-98 games. The only way I've ever seen them specified is as the MML tables I mentioned earlier. However, a lot of stuff floating around the internet is in some sort of binary format. Nothing that I can use. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2015 23:59
|
|
|
I've been playing Steven Universe covers on acoustic electric, a lot of songs feature a ringing sort of Atari/NES effect, not sure what to call them sorta bitcrusher-y? They usually just follow the current progression as arcade machine sounding whole notes behind the guitar. Probably the most gamey example : https://youtu.be/UViYKBlpFbc Any suggestions on recreating these in a phone app or something? Ideally live I'd plug guitar and phone into my looper thump out my percussive loop, tap 8bit sounding progression, then trigger both as necessary while playing. Hell knowing what to call that style of effect is help in itself, if it requires midi/keyboard to accurately reproduce is still helpful.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2015 23:37
|
|
|
Pollyanna posted:Anyone here familiar with MML and Yamaha FM synthesis? Is there a particular reason you want to do this via the most torturous, difficult way possible, or...? Because using something like http://www.kvraudio.com/product/vopm-by-sam and Renoise is probably a few magnitudes easier. Or even this: http://www.alyjameslab.com/alyjameslabfmdrive.html Authenticity is mostly a matter of staying within the constraints of the chip and using certain tropes and techniques. Learning FM synthesis is something you can do without things like MML - and it's probably better to do that as well. During the reign of the Sega Genesis, FM synths were already available for over half a decade so people already had experience with building patches. revolther posted:a lot of songs feature a ringing sort of Atari/NES effect, not sure what to call them sorta bitcrusher-y? quote:Any suggestions on recreating these in a phone app or something? Just iPad, I'm afraid - http://sidtracker64.com/ is pretty much the ideal candidate for this. Otherwise you need to get Reaper and use something like http://www.ymck.net/en/download/magical8bitplug/ and use Reaper's own arpeggiator. It's a simple pattern - "up" only, play 4-note chords (C-E-G-C), render the result to .wav and trigger that when you need it. Laserjet 4P fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Nov 8, 2015 |
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2015 21:46
|
|
|
I'm looking to see if my mixer has balanced outputs to connect to powered speakers. The mixer literature says the 'ST OutsL/R' are unbalanced, but they are TRS +4dBu connections, which suggests they might be balanced. How common is a +4dBu TRS unbalanced output?
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2015 20:12
|
|
|
could anyone help me find an instrumental or karaoke version of sublime's scarlet begonias cover?
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2015 20:39
|
|
|
Laserjet 4P posted:Is there a particular reason you want to do this via the most torturous, difficult way possible, or...? Well, mostly because I don't have to muck around with a DAW and installing VSTs and stuff, but I installed a demo version of Renoise, so that's in the clear for now. quote:Because using something like http://www.kvraudio.com/product/vopm-by-sam and Renoise is probably a few magnitudes easier. Or even this: http://www.alyjameslab.com/alyjameslabfmdrive.html I tried to use VOPMex and it seemed to screw up Renoise, somehow, but maybe I need to try again. VOPM itself has a rather outdated version of the OSX-compatible VST, but I can try using that instead. FMDrive is Windows-only, sadly. I'm mostly just looking for something to mimic OPNx/PC-98 FM synthesis and the NES, and some guides on implementing them in Renoise would be an awesome bonus. quote:Authenticity is mostly a matter of staying within the constraints of the chip and using certain tropes and techniques. I like to try and stay within the constraints of the chip 'cause it reduces analysis paralysis. That said, I'm certainly not stuck to them. And I want to learn FM synthesis too - no idea where I'd start, though. Maybe a book...
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2015 00:01
|
|
|
Check out "FM Theory and Applications," co-authored by John Chowning -- the guy who pretty much invented FM synthesis and sold it to Yamaha. It's widely available on the net as a PDF. Also check out dexed, a pretty faithful (and free) DX7 VST.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2015 06:33
|
|
|
I have a series of wav files of speech. I have a program which requires input in Pascal. I want to do a dirty estimate (for now, measuring is no option and an estimate should be good enough) of what the approximate pressure in Pascal was for every sample of the recording, assuming they were played at a level that's approximately quiet indoors conversation. Can anybody help me with the formula?
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2015 17:10
|
|
|
Cingulate posted:I have a series of wav files of speech. I have a program which requires input in Pascal. I want to do a dirty estimate (for now, measuring is no option and an estimate should be good enough) of what the approximate pressure in Pascal was for every sample of the recording, assuming they were played at a level that's approximately quiet indoors conversation. Can anybody help me with the formula? This might be of some help: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-soundlevel.htm Basically you'd want the dBSPL to Pa conversion. The thing to be aware of is that dB SPL is a measurement of auditory pressure within a body of air, rather than within a digital system, so honestly the quickest way of doing this may be to play back the files through speakers at a level that sounds approximately like what you described and use an SPL meter to determine the dBSPL level of the files. Just know that there's all kinds of variables that are difficult to account for, including the fact that the dBSPL level will be slightly different for different spaces, even if you played it back at the same level on your hardware. Not to mention that there's the question of how you meter the SPL of the files in terms of time and frequency weightings. I'm sure there's a better/more accurate way of doing this, but pretty much all SPL measurements like this are referenced against a control (ie -20dBFS 1kHz sine wav @ 76dBSPL or whatever)
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2015 23:57
|
|
|
MockingQuantum posted:honestly the quickest way of doing this may be to play back the files through speakers at a level that sounds approximately like what you described and use an SPL meter to determine the dBSPL level of the files I only need ballpark figures, within an order of magnitude of the real result. I know I won't get anything better out of this anyways.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2015 02:00
|
|
|
Cingulate posted:Nope, not an option for the next few days (that is, before the relevant deadline) - I am currently far away from the room the original presentations were conducted in, and do not have an SPL meter neither there nor here. I mean, the dirtiest of estimates for conversational speech in a presentation would probably be around 70 to 74dB, and that's a guess purely from past experience. That'd be between 0.0632 and 0.1002 Pa.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2015 19:06
|
|
|
So I'm looking for a way to make music on my Android phone (Sony Xperia Z3V to be precise) when I have free time. Anyone know a good app? I play guitar but I recognize any apps would probably be piano-based, given the limitations of touch-screens. I'm really just looking to practice scales/modes and come up with chord progressions or riffs when inspiration strikes or when I'm stuck at work with time to kill. Ideally, it would have the ability to record, and maybe play drum loops to play along with? I'm not stuck on free either, a paid app would be OK.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2015 14:26
|
|
|
Brettbot posted:So I'm looking for a way to make music on my Android phone (Sony Xperia Z3V to be precise) when I have free time. Anyone know a good app? I play guitar but I recognize any apps would probably be piano-based, given the limitations of touch-screens. I'm really just looking to practice scales/modes and come up with chord progressions or riffs when inspiration strikes or when I'm stuck at work with time to kill. Stagelight Has only been out a week but has a lot of good reviews. I forgot that I had read about it until your question so thanks, downloading it now. It looks similar to garageband on ios. e: it's pretty cool, you build up patterns and beats and then turn them all on and off in an arrange view sort of like ableton or maschine. the demo song sounds pretty good, there are some included sounds but there is a lot available via in-app purchase. there are inbuilt tutorials on how to use the program and also how to construct songs. the interface is sooooo tiny on my 1440p note 4, it's very sharp and actually fits quite a lot onto the screen but it's just on the edge of being comfortable and I have to use the stylus because all the icons are so small. Gym Leader Barack fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Nov 24, 2015 |
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2015 15:26
|
|
|
Caustic runs pretty well on my Z3C, not so loop based but its easy to get a groove going, there's a swing knob in settings to make things less rigid.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2015 02:04
|
|
|
A friend was just given a Vox AC4TV combo. Turns she wanted something with a headphone jack. Is there some kinda something she can plug into the ext. speaker out to make it usable for headphones? I've already referred her to amplugs as an alternative, but thought I'd check.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2015 13:39
|
|
|
No, don't plug anything except a speaker in that jack, it will hurt the amp, and your headphones.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2015 22:47
|
|
|
Pokey Araya posted:No, don't plug anything except a speaker in that jack, it will hurt the amp, and your headphones. I know. My question is whether there exists such a thing as to make it not hurt anything or anyone. But it's already irrelevant, friend went and got something at guitar center.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2015 22:55
|
|
|
There are a few amp brakes / attenuators / dummy loads with headphone jacks on them, but I don't know how well those would work with a little amp like that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2015 00:27
|
|
|
That reminds me of something I've had an issue with. I've got a Crate V18-112, which has a headphone jack, but plugging something in doesn't hut off the main speaker. Is this normal? Is there something I can plug into the speaker jack so the board doesn't fry itself (which I learned the hard way when I first got it)?
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2015 04:06
|
|
|
Same as above, you need to have a load on the amp. Also that is a Line out, not headphone jack, so the speaker will still be active. You could buy an attenuator, but the cost is stupid for what you're trying to achieve. Buy a Roland Microcube on CL or guitar center.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2015 19:05
|
|
|
They don't have headphone jacks, here is the manual for reference: http://www.crateamps.com/pdf/manuals/v18-112_om.pdf
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2015 08:36
|
|
|
10 years I've owned this amp and I never knew there was a difference, I just read "line out" and assumed. Guess I learned something! Guess i'll have to get a different amp if I want to practice silently.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2015 11:50
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:10 years I've owned this amp and I never knew there was a difference, I just read "line out" and assumed. Guess I learned something! I dunno though, on my amp if I put a line out to my audio interface I can turn the stand by off on the amp and no sound comes out of the speakers but the line out still works so I can use headphones in my interface, can your do this perhaps?
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2015 15:07
|
|
|
peter gabriel posted:I dunno though, on my amp if I put a line out to my audio interface I can turn the stand by off on the amp and no sound comes out of the speakers but the line out still works so I can use headphones in my interface, can your do this perhaps? I haven't actually had 1/4" plug headphones in a while (I asked my question because I was thinking of picking up a set) so I can't try this at the moment, but that's something to keep in mind to try when I can.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2015 21:03
|
|
|
Hey guys, Looking to pick up a USB MIDI controller/piano that fits the following criteria and don't know where to start. 1. Good, weighted 88 keys 2. USB out 3. Nothing else I currently have a Casio PX-350M that I'm giving to my dad because he's donating his Korg to the YMCA. I will only use this piano with VSTs on my computer, meaning any extra features on the piano will be unused/useless for my setup. Does something like this exist or am I stuck in piano territory?
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 05:03
|
|
|
Armchair Calvinist posted:Hey guys, There are tons of options, but the weighted keys mean you're looking at dropping at least $300 on a non Alesis/M-Audio one. Of course, for only $150 more you could pick up the Yamaha P-45 which lets you play without it hooked up to a computer.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 17:46
|
|
|
Can someone please explain Equalizers to me? I'm talking about the ones on music apps and PC soundcards. The ones with the 8 or bars that you drag around to change the sound. - What bars do I alter to get the desired sound I want? (please explain what each bar does) - What is the thought process behind the presets? What makes the "Rock" preset "Rock" etc. - Why do they all sound like poo poo? I just signed up to Google Play Music and i turned on the equaliser because the default sound was kind of brash. Every one of the presets sounded like rear end but I don't know what I wanted/needed to change to make it sound "good". -Why am I unable to reproduce the sound of the song when the equaliser was turned off with the equaliser turned on?
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2015 02:26
|
|
|
xcore posted:Can someone please explain Equalizers to me? I'm talking about the ones on music apps and PC soundcards. The ones with the 8 or bars that you drag around to change the sound. Basically sound is made up of combinations of audio waves of different frequencies. You can sort of compare it to how a video is made up of lots of colours and intensities that change over time, and that particular combo creates a recognisable image. By tweaking things like brightness and contrast, colour temperature, sharpness (exaggerating the contrast where dark and light areas meet) you change the quality and the feel of the image, which can often make a huge difference With an equaliser you're basically boosting or cutting a range of frequencies to emphasise or de-emphasise them. Depending on what you're listening to, this will change the character of the sound. (As an aside, the reason a piano and a flute playing the same note sound different is because of timbre, which is the additional pattern of frequencies each produces over the fundamental frequency) Ideally you wouldn't need to use EQ at all. A good setup will faithfully reproduce the recorded/mixed/mastered music, you put it on and it sounds good. Some people like to tweak this to get a sound they prefer, like cranking the bass frequencies, getting a more resonant snare drum hit, adding some crispness to the vocal, whatever. All down to taste. And if your setup is bad, you'll probably need to compensate for it - speakers that sound muddy might need the lower frequencies cutting a bit, that kind of thing The best way to learn is to play with each slider (which controls a particular frequency band) and listen really carefully to how the music changes, what gets affected. If you look for some music production guides you can find some lists of which frequencies do what (which can be subjective, but it gives you things to look for). Presets are... basically sledgehammer changes, they'll certainly sound different, and a lot of people like them I guess? A 'smile' is a really common one, where the bass and treble are boosted and the midrange is cut, so the bands form a valley like a smile. That's a very nu-metal kind of sound - try it and see. But the naming is basically arbitrary, I think there's some idea that like 'this one is better for pop because it emphasises the main vocal frequencies' but that's mostly bullshit and depends entirely on the music you're listening to and how it was produced As far as Google play goes... is this on an Android device? As far as I'm aware those are all volume limited, which means if you push a frequency up too loud everything else will get turned down and it will sound quieter and weaker overall. If it helps as a usage example, I have the highest band down a touch because my headphones are a bit too harsh with cymbals and sibilants sometimes, and maybe the bass boost up a tiny bit... and that's it, everything else flat. I use... the Fx Booster preset or whatever with my crappy Bluetooth speaker because it's too quiet and dull and that's a quick and easy way to make that sound better There's a lot more to this (some frequencies are more pronounced at higher volumes) but I'm sure someone already replied about it by now. Oh also some equalisers might colour the sound as soon as you turn them on, even when they're flat, which sucks because it's really hard to make small adjustments to the original sound. It could even be a simple volume increase/decrease, which affects how we perceive things and immediately makes thinks sound different (louder usually sounds better, so you have to even the levels out to compare fairly) Here's some chat about different bands and what they generally affect http://www.digitalprosound.com/2002/03_mar/tutorials/mixing_excerpt1.htm Exactly which bands your EQ has and how wide they are (like how far the '1KHz' band stretches either side and how it falls off) depends on the EQ. In the end, you gotta use your ear baka kaba fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Dec 8, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2015 03:37
|
|
|
Awesome stuff dude. I'll have a read and play around with it. Thanks for taking the time.baka kaba posted:As far as Google play goes... is this on an Android device? As far as I'm aware those are all volume limited, which means if you push a frequency up too loud everything else will get turned down and it will sound quieter and weaker overall. Yes, it's Android (Nexus 5x) baka kaba posted:Oh also some equalisers might colour the sound as soon as you turn them on, even when they're flat, which sucks because it's really hard to make small adjustments to the original sound. This seems to be exactly the case with the Play Music app (hence my comments about not being able to produce the original sound when the Equalizer is turned on)
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2015 04:05
|
|
|
Well if you're not aware, they should all be in the middle to get a flat response. (I think there's a Flat preset if you want to test with that). Going up boosts a band and going down cuts it, so it should sound the same when they're all centred. Bass boost should be off (all the way to the left) and same goes for the other thing, which is a fake surround effect that seriously messes with the sound I only have 4 bands though (I think) so if you have 8 maybe it's a different version?
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2015 05:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 19:02 |
|
|
baka kaba posted:Well if you're not aware, they should all be in the middle to get a flat response. (I think there's a Flat preset if you want to test with that). Going up boosts a band and going down cuts it, so it should sound the same when they're all centred. Bass boost should be off (all the way to the left) and same goes for the other thing, which is a fake surround effect that seriously messes with the sound There is actually 5 on my App. +10dB to -10dB 60Hz 230Hz 910Hz 4kHz and 14kHz Then there are Bass Boost and Surround Sound sliders When i played around with it yesterday, "Flat" defintly sounded different to having the Equaliser off all together. I'll play around with it again tonight now that I'm a bit more educated. Edit: Quickly checking it now (albeit with a Podcast) you might be right, Flat seems to be the same. It must have been the Surround Sound slider effecting it (you're right, holy poo poo does that sound bad). Looten Plunder fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Dec 8, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2015 05:20
|
|