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I started chipping in the grey on the Ghostkeel last night and I'm going to work my way up hopefully getting some more done or finished tonight.
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Dec 1, 2015 19:55
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Indolent Bastard posted:That white power armor is light grey. I like your white results better. I use the exact same colors aside from a blue wash sometimes   
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Dec 1, 2015 19:58
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SRM posted:I use the exact same colors aside from a blue wash sometimes The blue wash helps, and why do your look white while theirs still looks grey?
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Dec 1, 2015 20:34
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Indolent Bastard posted:The blue wash helps, and why do your look white while theirs still looks grey? Using the same colors doesn't imply putting them all in the same places in the same amounts. If you don't have enough areas that are pure white, your "white" will look grey (or brown or blue or whatever your shade is).
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Dec 1, 2015 21:05
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The big thing to remember for painting white is that the white is both your midtone and your highlight. So if you would normally go 20% shadow, 60% midtone, and 20% highlight, you'll go 20% shadow, 80% white for white. Reverse this for black, going with 20% highlight and 80% black.
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Dec 1, 2015 23:22
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SRM posted:So I want to display a single miniature I painted. Is there a good sort of miniature display box I could use for this? I know a dice cube works, but they always have that injection part on the top and they look kinda tacky. He's just a dude on a 25mm base but I might want to expand the base a little bit so it can look like more of a display piece when it's not on the table. You can get a solar powered jewelry turn table off ebay for about £4.
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Dec 1, 2015 23:40
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SRM posted:I've done 30 of the modern plastic GW stormtroopers and I just swamp the dude in brown wash and bring it back up, but they've got brown BDUs and leather straps and metallics and other stuff that takes that wash well. I figure it's faster to do the whole model up but even when I'm doing the whites on my nice and tidy Ultramarines I hit the whole area up with blue and bring it back up. So for what it's worth, my basic method was prime white, basecoat the non-white bits in 50/50 VGC heavy grey/heavy blue grey, then hit the entire model with two or three heavy coats of black wash, then highlight up from there. It... would probably have worked fine if I were a better painter, but I haven't painted at all in fifteen years so I'm basically still learning everything from scratch as I go. It looks okay, if fairly stylized and sloppy, but it's been time consuming as all hell bringing the armor back up to white from the full wash. I think my biggest errors were not cleaning up mold lines etc. well enough and being too heavy-handed in my priming which washed out some of the finer detail, so the black wash didn't pick it out as well as it should have. I'll probably post pics down the road, but my first attempts were pretty bad. I might show those ones anyway if I can do a good progression of 'here's where I started, here's where I finished, here's what I learned.'
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Dec 2, 2015 02:53
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Does anyone here polish their little pewter dudes before priming them? I've been doing that with some steel wool, and it's rather fiddly. My current technique is to put a bit of steel wool in a pair of crossover tweezers and go at it, but I feel like There's Got To Be A Better Way. Any ideas? I will accept real answers or any joke response that isn't the obvious.
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Dec 2, 2015 05:38
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Dremel with a buffing tool
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Dec 2, 2015 05:56
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Indolent Bastard posted:The blue wash helps, and why do your look white while theirs still looks grey? SRM's photos have worse white balance than the expensive studio images. Your mind is filling in what you think it should look like.
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Dec 2, 2015 05:57
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Big Willy Style posted:Dremel with a buffing tool I guess I could give that a shot. I was worried those would either be too abrasive or bad at getting into crevices.
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Dec 2, 2015 06:16
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KPC_Mammon posted:Thank you for this. The OP has been really helpful at getting me back into miniature painting these past several months. Very happy to hear it's been so helpful! Let me know what you think can be added, it's a constant work in progress.
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Dec 2, 2015 10:14
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Does anyone have any tips or guides on painting armored dudes with relatively large and flat swatches of solid color? Space Marines are a really good example of this. Those kinds of guys always end up looking really flat for me.
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Dec 2, 2015 11:03
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Does anyone know a good method of painting ginger hair? I'm working on my Guild Ball Brewers and they're all varying shades of redhead.
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Dec 2, 2015 14:54
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SteelMentor posted:Does anyone know a good method of painting ginger hair? I'm working on my Guild Ball Brewers and they're all varying shades of redhead. Medium red-brown base and 3-4 orange highlights of various tones. Using orange as the base always looks cartoony.  (Personally I'd use a lighter orange rather than that yellow as the final stage)
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Dec 2, 2015 15:45
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Indolent Bastard posted:Medium red-brown base and 3-4 orange highlights of various tones. Using orange as the base always looks cartoony. Seconding the lighter orange instead of yellow. That hair recipe is what I do for my fire giants (with a final light touch of white) so unless you want a fiery look I would muddle out that last layer a little more than suggested there.
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Dec 2, 2015 15:48
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So a friend of mine got some MEchanicus and MEchanicum we've been using as a 'shared' army - he buys, I build and paint. A couple of days back he took them to Helsinki and 
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Dec 2, 2015 21:03
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Oh man, that's sexy as hell. Have wondered how the Metallica scheme would look on 30k AdMech and you've done a sick job there, congrats dude.
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Dec 2, 2015 21:11
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Thank you! I had a whole lot of fun painting him. Used to hate painting white but I figured out a simple way of doing it that I think looks fairly good.
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Dec 2, 2015 21:52
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I have become the anti-Goon, but I think the sheer effect came out really nice  Also experimented with some true metallic metallics on the sword. It's really difficult to get the glazing to go on without leaving tide marks all over. The worst thing is that I can't just correct errors by overpainting the area. 
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Dec 2, 2015 22:32
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Good job. So with my experiments with sheer frabic you have skin highlights overlapping with fabric shadow, and it's really, really hard to do that well. It's master painting level poo poo. A lot of great painters hide this by freehanding a lace effect, which can also help sell the sheer effect. You want to push your skin tone highlights more towards skin tones and away from the grey to sell it as well.
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Dec 2, 2015 22:55
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Indolent Bastard posted:Medium red-brown base and 3-4 orange highlights of various tones. Using orange as the base always looks cartoony. Yeah, red-brown in the best way to start if you want natural tones. Pure red or orange tends to work, it just looks fake. If using GW paints I've used Doombull Brown as a nice base before. If you want SUPER clean/pretty hair a final touch of pure white along the bangs/upper half of the back of the head can bring that out. Just remember less is more.
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Dec 2, 2015 23:09
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Good job. So with my experiments with sheer frabic you have skin highlights overlapping with fabric shadow, and it's really, really hard to do that well. It's master painting level poo poo. A lot of great painters hide this by freehanding a lace effect, which can also help sell the sheer effect. You want to push your skin tone highlights more towards skin tones and away from the grey to sell it as well. I could probably add a bit more skin toning to make it even more sheer, but it was intentionally left moderate. i think I will need to re-photograph the miniature. The black backdrop is messing with the metering and while there is some skin tone coming through, and it's getting washed out. I wonder if I should be using more opaque filters on my lights - I'm using single ply tissue at the moment. Maybe I should switch to greaseproof paper. What are people's opinions on backdrops? I like how the black keeps things nice and even, and reduces unwanted reflections, but the metering issues are really annoying if I'm photographing solo miniatures. Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Dec 2, 2015 |
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Dec 2, 2015 23:46
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I've been away from my local game shop for a while, and I've had the painting itch. Then I saw two packs of mouselings (with 2 figures each) I couldn't resist getting them both. I stuck with the colors I had on hand, which is fairly small right now.  A samurai mouse, and a assasin mouse. I'm glad I had two browns, monster brown for the skins and leather brown for the assasin's cloak.  Yeah, purple is a bit cliche, but it's what I had. I might try to put some stars or something as well.  A rogue/thief mouse. I stated these up for a game I'm designing, that I hope to get to use for a testplay in almost 2 weeks.
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Dec 3, 2015 00:09
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Does anyone know of a method or have a guide for painting impact scorch marks, like you might get from a plasma or volkite impact?
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Dec 3, 2015 02:48
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DeadGame posted:Does anyone know of a method or have a guide for painting impact scorch marks, like you might get from a plasma or volkite impact? A quick google later, you mean like this?  It looks to me like he's first drybrushed/stippled black into a roundish star shape for the outer 'spill' area, then traced a starburst 'impact' in a metallic color - I'd probably do it in Leadbelcher or some other dark metal color, then carefully highlight the edges a bit with Ironbreaker or some other slightly brighter color.
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Dec 3, 2015 11:24
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DeadGame posted:Does anyone know of a method or have a guide for painting impact scorch marks, like you might get from a plasma or volkite impact? Use a soldering iron to get the proper molten effect and then paint like what the other guy said. PS you can melt white metal models with a soldering iron. Don't ask me how I found out.
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Dec 3, 2015 11:47
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I once knew a guy who used one of those needle-tipped electronics soldering irons to effectively spot-weld metal minis together.
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Dec 3, 2015 12:27
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Drake_263 posted:So a friend of mine got some MEchanicus and MEchanicum we've been using as a 'shared' army - he buys, I build and paint. Kind of has a Menoth from Warmachine vibe. I like it. Don't envy painting a white army, though.
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Dec 3, 2015 16:30
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Drake_263 posted:A quick google later, you mean like this? Not sure if Hawaiian shirt is the direction I would have gone with for a color scheme, but I like it.
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Dec 3, 2015 17:36
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An Angry Bug posted:Kind of has a Menoth from Warmachine vibe. I like it. Don't envy painting a white army, though. If you think that's bad, my current personal project is a poo poo-ton of pre-heresy Death Guard (bone-white and green). Basically I just prime the mini white, basecoat the details, wash the whole mini with Seraphim Sepia, then clean it up a bit with drybrushing before highlighting. Sepia wash over white primer followed by a drubrush of Screaming Skull and a lighter drybrush of Pallid Wych Flesh is easy, fast and makes a nice 'has been rolling around in the dirt a bit' white.
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Dec 3, 2015 17:50
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Here's the third mob of 'Ardboyz for my Blood Axes. I used the Kommando big shoota model because I had it lying around, and it's a cool mini you don't see too often. Still undecided what to do for their trukk since I don't want to just make a stock one.       
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Dec 3, 2015 22:56
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SRM posted:Still undecided what to do for their trukk since I don't want to just make a stock one. Open-topped ork-skull crab walker? http://littlebigwars.blogspot.com/2011/09/more-15mm-goodies.html http://painted40k.blogspot.com/2014/02/ork-crab-tank-painted-by-bill-king.html Squiggoth with howda? http://www.dakkadakka.com/core/gallery-viewimage.jsp?i=521450&m=2&w=600
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Dec 3, 2015 23:49
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Geisladisk posted:Does anyone have any tips or guides on painting armored dudes with relatively large and flat swatches of solid color? Space Marines are a really good example of this. Hopefully this will help: when you're painting flat or featureless surfaces, try examining how the light will hit them and blend accordingly. For space marines, you're probably thinking of shoulderpads, which are hemispheres, so it helps to picture how the light lands on a sphere. Observe on this image I've brazenly stolen from the internet:  The white area would be your highlight, the medium-gray your midtone, and the dark grey your shade color. (The colors' positions may change depending on which direction the light is coming from.) You're only painting the top half of the sphere on a SM shoulderpad, so you'll likely want to put your highlight color on the top, and blend it into the midtone over most of the rest of the 'pad, maybe blending a bit into the shade color near the bottom edge of the 'pad. I did blending similarly to this fairly recently, in a miniature from our very own Oath Thread (the mousling on the right):   I also recommend looking at art blogs, which is where I found this demonstration of lighting on sharper edges:  (More info here.) Or, y'know, follow this thread, check out the Oath Thread, and learn by osmosis from fellow goons like I do!
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Dec 4, 2015 01:37
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Speaking of applied shadows, your Ramos is good but in the future I'd do deeper more stark shadows when using that much front facing OSL. It gives it more of a pop IMHO.
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Dec 4, 2015 09:00
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has anyone used this primer before? It was still tacky over 24 hours later and wasn't taking paint well. models were infinity and i was in and out of the cold garage spraying them
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Dec 4, 2015 15:26
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Cat Face Joe posted:has anyone used this primer before? It was still tacky over 24 hours later and wasn't taking paint well. models were infinity and i was in and out of the cold garage spraying them I've used Rust-oleum primer a few times and they've always ended up being at least a tiny bit tacky. It didn't seem to matter what I used it on, either; plastic, pewter, resin, all ended up the same way. If you can get your hands on Krylon, use that instead. I swore by Krylon primer for years and I recommend it for anyone using rattle cans.
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Dec 4, 2015 16:42
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I've been using Valspar white primer lately, and I have no complaints about it. I've been using Valspar for the gloss coat too and it's been working pretty good, I just need to work up the courage to use the matt stuff in place of dullcoate 
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Dec 4, 2015 16:45
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SRM posted:Here's the third mob of 'Ardboyz for my Blood Axes. I used the Kommando big shoota model because I had it lying around, and it's a cool mini you don't see too often. Still undecided what to do for their trukk since I don't want to just make a stock one. These guys are ace as always! As for the trukk, how about picking up a cheapish half track kit and orking it up?
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Dec 4, 2015 17:21
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SRM posted:Here's the third mob of 'Ardboyz for my Blood Axes. I used the Kommando big shoota model because I had it lying around, and it's a cool mini you don't see too often. Still undecided what to do for their trukk since I don't want to just make a stock one. Just ork any ol' somethin' up.
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Dec 4, 2015 17:32
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