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Oh good. I thought I was the only one who hated picking up stitches. With how often patterns call for it, I was beginning to think it was a fun pastime that I somehow didn't understand.
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Dec 1, 2015 19:12
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If it were one per row, I would be totally cool with it. But it's always like "pick up 39 stitches across these 47 rows" and that can go gently caress itself. How do you do that evenly and with zero gaps or frilling? Answer: black witchcraft and still probably lots of swearing
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Dec 1, 2015 20:44
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i like nice words
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Anne Whateley posted:If it were one per row, I would be totally cool with it. But it's always like "pick up 39 stitches across these 47 rows" and that can go gently caress itself. How do you do that evenly and with zero gaps or frilling? Answer: black witchcraft I never get the exact number of stitches either. It's totally black witchcraft. I have tried following the pattern, I've tried evenly spacing out the picked up stitches myself, and nothing works. It's the worst.
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Dec 1, 2015 20:51
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I haven't knit one myself, but Beee has knit my favourite Doodler so far.
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Dec 1, 2015 22:19
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Anne Whateley posted:If it were one per row, I would be totally cool with it. But it's always like "pick up 39 stitches across these 47 rows" and that can go gently caress itself. How do you do that evenly and with zero gaps or frilling? Answer: black witchcraft It's total bullshit. It wouldn't be too bad if it came to 'pick up 2 stitches for every 3 holes' but it never loving is. It's is always left up to you, like how dare you expected instructions from a pattern.
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Dec 2, 2015 03:37
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Omg. I must learn to make socks so I can make this: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/penispoopcakewaffle-sock
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Dec 2, 2015 08:33
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Ms. Happiness posted:Omg. I must learn to make socks so I can make this: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/penispoopcakewaffle-sock Finally, a sock pattern that speaks to me!
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Dec 3, 2015 01:13
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I am currently finishing off a fairly simple shawl/neckerchief pattern because I am totally putting off finishing my cardigan. I was up the other end of the UK for my brother in laws graduation in July and due to having a lot of spare time I knit an entire cardigan bar one sleeve in a week. It's been sitting in a bag since then since the button band is sideways to the front panels and extends round the neck. 257 stitches. 
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Dec 3, 2015 01:44
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Serenity Dove posted:I am currently finishing off a fairly simple shawl/neckerchief pattern because I am totally putting off finishing my cardigan. I am only able to pick up button bands when I am catching up on a podcast. ONLY. I have never been able to get myself through that slog without something distracting me. Ms. Happiness posted:Omg. I must learn to make socks so I can make this: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/penispoopcakewaffle-sock CPAAG on Ravelry is a good group. I am also in the nail thread on SA (we talk about dongs a lot) and I feel right at home in that group.
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Dec 3, 2015 01:50
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Learn from my mistakes, thread. Do not try on a sweater that's slightly too small but stretches into place, tell yourself "it'll be fine, the button band will add some width", and then steek it. Steeking will make the fabric much less friendly to stretching into shape because said stretching will then only occur on the buttons themselves and make you look like you're wearing a sweater two sizes too small. I'd also like to point out this sweater is for me, a big guy who wears XL. And it was knit in sock yarn on size 2.5 needles. I'm not frogging this, even to salvage what little yarn I can from the yoke and sleeves, I'm loving burning it. EDIT: Because I really REALLY hate myself, I decided to figure out how many stitches were in that sweater. The low-balled number was six digits long. Safari Disco Lion fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Dec 3, 2015 |
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Dec 3, 2015 02:03
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Safari Disco Lion posted:Learn from my mistakes, thread. Do not try on a sweater that's slightly too small but stretches into place, tell yourself "it'll be fine, the button band will add some width", and then steek it. Steeking will make the fabric much less friendly to stretching into shape because said stretching will then only occur on the buttons themselves and make you look like you're wearing a sweater two sizes too small. I swore just at the thought of that. All that yarn chopped.... do you have someone you could give it to?
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Dec 3, 2015 08:27
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Nobody I like enough. Theoretically, it IS fixable with some creative grafting and seaming. I can add width to the body by knitting flat pieces to be seamed on to each side, undo the bindoff and ribbing at the bottom and just add some length, and then fix the raglan section by knitting a second piece to the right size and grafting it on to the cast on edge. God, I'll never be able to toss this out now. I've put so much work into it and I CAN make it work, I just don't know if I have the willpower. 
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Dec 3, 2015 08:53
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Help goons I need a yarn recommendation! I want to knit a shawl for my best friend as a wedding present. She got engaged earlier this year and the wedding isn't for a year or two so I have plenty of time. I'm trying to find a nice lace weight yarn that doesn't contain silk. Apart from using what's on my stash already I don't want to buy anymore as a personal choice. (I feel bad for all the silkworms.)  Does anyone have any recommendations? I need about 1500 yards for the pattern I have in mind.
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Dec 3, 2015 18:56
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Safari Disco Lion posted:Nobody I like enough. I imagine you already tried blocking the poo poo out of it? Might lose some length really stretching it horizontally but it's easier to add ribbing on the bottom I would think.
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Dec 3, 2015 20:41
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Ms. Happiness posted:Omg. I must learn to make socks so I can make this: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/penispoopcakewaffle-sock I've seen this pattern plenty of times before and just passed it over because it was so LOL RANDOM, but I may have to make it now. I just bought a metric fuckload of sock yarn off Craftsy because it was on sale and I have no idea what to do with it all. 
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Dec 4, 2015 01:30
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marchantia posted:I imagine you already tried blocking the poo poo out of it? Might lose some length really stretching it horizontally but it's easier to add ribbing on the bottom I would think. I've tried it, yeah. Part of the trouble is the yarn is wool/acrylic because I'm poor, so it doesn't hold the blocked shape quite as well as pure wool would. It stretches out nicely but after a day or two of sitting, it pulls back in. Though, as I'm typing, I realize I might actually be able to partially kill it with an iron...
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Dec 4, 2015 02:22
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Serenity Dove posted:I'm trying to find a nice lace weight yarn that doesn't contain silk. Apart from using what's on my stash already I don't want to buy anymore as a personal choice. (I feel bad for all the silkworms.) What's your price range?
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Dec 4, 2015 20:20
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I would probably go up to around £40-50. Another quick question. I am starting the Light and up shawl on Raverly. (http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/light-and-up) I have done the garter stitch tab and doing the increases is no problem but by the strip of garter stitches I have this ridge running along side.  Sorry for the lovely picture. I've pointed the tip of my needle where the bumps are. I'm pretty certain it's a quirk of the pattern as it seems pretty straight forward. Two m1l and m1r on the RS and one of each on the wrong side. But I just wanted to double check with you fine folks in case I'm missing something obvious.
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Dec 5, 2015 01:41
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Serenity Dove posted:I would probably go up to around £40-50. It looks like it's where you've picked up stitches along the garter tab, which would leave a little ridge along the wrong side of your work like that, and be normal. That looks like it might be the right side of your work though, how did you pick up the stitches?
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Dec 5, 2015 07:17
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Avalinka posted:It looks like it's where you've picked up stitches along the garter tab, which would leave a little ridge along the wrong side of your work like that, and be normal. That looks like it might be the right side of your work though, how did you pick up the stitches? On right side rows I am picking the stitches up as per the instructions. There is the bar of yarn running between two stitches and I either m1l or m1r. On the wrong side rows however there are two strands of yarn. I have been picking the strand that is the closest to the right side of the work. If that makes sense? I've tried looking on the patterns project page and at other peoples projects and I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. 
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Dec 5, 2015 12:08
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So you want 1500 yards, no silk, lace and up to £50. I suggest a cone of cashmere from Colourmart. £26.40 for 150grams. It's good stuff. Or Blacker Yarns do a lace yarn made from feral sheep! Probably not so soft though. e: I tried out the beginning of that pattern a little ridge is normal. Sodium Chloride fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Dec 5, 2015 |
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Dec 5, 2015 17:38
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Serenity Dove posted:On right side rows I am picking the stitches up as per the instructions. There is the bar of yarn running between two stitches and I either m1l or m1r. On the wrong side rows however there are two strands of yarn. I have been picking the strand that is the closest to the right side of the work. If that makes sense? I've tried looking on the patterns project page and at other peoples projects and I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. Oh I see! I just looked at it again, it's a different part of the knitting than I thought. The m1's near the garter edge will be trickier to see the right bar of yarn to twist, and I don't know how to be more help than that. You're wanting the bar that comes out from the stitch directly under the one you just made.
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Dec 5, 2015 20:25
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Serenity Dove posted:On right side rows I am picking the stitches up as per the instructions. There is the bar of yarn running between two stitches and I either m1l or m1r. On the wrong side rows however there are two strands of yarn. I have been picking the strand that is the closest to the right side of the work. If that makes sense? I've tried looking on the patterns project page and at other peoples projects and I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. It looks totally fine. You usually get some sort of ridge like that when you're picking up stitches.
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Dec 6, 2015 01:50
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Serenity Dove posted:On the wrong side rows however there are two strands of yarn. I have been picking the strand that is the closest to the right side of the work. If that makes sense?
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Dec 6, 2015 01:55
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Here is what I have been doing to avoid picking up stitches on my drat doodler. I thought fingers would be more fussy, but this wasn't bad at all. Pattern is http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/flicker-fingers Made with my not favorite dyeing job on my spindle hand spun.  
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Dec 6, 2015 02:31
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I really hate looking for a pattern for fingerless gloves, only to get bombarded by hundreds of fingerless mitts. Also, I'm a new knitter. I'm making a scarf at the moment while playing Civ V. After this, I'm totally making a bandana cowl and some fingerless gloves. How do I knit in the round without a circular needle? Also my needles are only about a foot long. Will it fit the 80+ stitches I need to cast on for the cowl?
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Dec 7, 2015 22:19
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Either circular needles or DPNs. Fingerless mitts are super easy to convert to fingerless gloves, even for a beginner (if you know how to do fingers in the first place?).
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Dec 7, 2015 22:33
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I will purchase one of those things! Probably the circular. And I have no idea how to do fingers.
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Dec 7, 2015 23:08
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Aafter posted:I really hate looking for a pattern for fingerless gloves, only to get bombarded by hundreds of fingerless mitts. I used this Knitty pattern for my husband and his BFF and they both love it (minus the embroidered/duplicate stitch stuff). Fingerless glove patterns are harder to find and they're a little more fiddly, but worth it.
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Dec 7, 2015 23:43
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Any fingered glove pattern can easily be converted to a fingerless pattern by not knitting the fingers all the way up. And once you make one pattern you can just take how you did the fingers there to transplant them to a fingerless mitt pattern.
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Dec 8, 2015 01:03
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I knit my first pair of socks, woo. Two-at-a-time magic loop technique is amazing and socks are so much faster than sweaters!! Unfortunately, even though I was knitting them from the same skein, they came out different colors >:-[ drat you MadelineTosh.
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Dec 8, 2015 01:05
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I gotta admit I'm mildly irritated that my skein of Tosh 80/10/10 Fingering (what you see in my Doodler up there) came out looking totally different than it did on the site- the site's pic is very blue-forward, the skein I got is basically pink speckled with other colors. I've got friends who work in LYSes who've expressed a love/hate relationship with their dye lots too :/ Has anyone here used Hedgehog Fibers? No one within 200 miles of me carries it so I'd have to order sight unseen and I've seen evidence of horrible bleeding on instagram...
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Dec 8, 2015 01:50
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ackapoo posted:I used this Knitty pattern for my husband and his BFF and they both love it (minus the embroidered/duplicate stitch stuff). Fingerless glove patterns are harder to find and they're a little more fiddly, but worth it. Those are totally awesome. I have no idea how to read these directions at all.
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Dec 8, 2015 02:20
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Sex Hobbit posted:I gotta admit I'm mildly irritated that my skein of Tosh 80/10/10 Fingering (what you see in my Doodler up there) came out looking totally different than it did on the site- the site's pic is very blue-forward, the skein I got is basically pink speckled with other colors. I've got friends who work in LYSes who've expressed a love/hate relationship with their dye lots too. Mad Tosh is one of those things I don't really buy online unless I'm good with a surprise. If I need two things to jive for a project I do it in person. Much more work, but worth it- I'm not spending that kind of time and money on a project to hate it!
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Dec 8, 2015 02:25
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Hello knitting thread! I just completed a sweater for my demon spawn:  Pattern is Sir Isaac Fancysleeves. I modified it just a bit and instead of a ribbed neck, I went for plain stockinette so that it would roll. My spawn has since ordered me to make another one.
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Dec 8, 2015 02:37
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Sex Hobbit posted:Has anyone here used Hedgehog Fibers? No one within 200 miles of me carries it so I'd have to order sight unseen and I've seen evidence of horrible bleeding on instagram... I haven't used it, but there's been a lot of complaining about horrible bleeding on Rav too, and at least one person's Doodler was ruined by it. There is advice on how to stop it bleeding but I would be nervous. Having said that, I bought 3 skeins of a deep blood red from a local indie dyer and used one with a light grey to make Aisling. She warned me about it bleeding so I stayed to watch it soak and managed to yank it out of the water before it bled in to the grey. She did say wool wash can be the problem, so when I knit the other two I'm going to soak them without the wash and see if that helps.
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Dec 8, 2015 06:44
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Double posting, but: Any tips on preventing laddering when switching from a group of knit stitches to a group of purl stitches? I'm twisting the first purl stitch after the knit since that's where I'm getting the ladder but it's not helping much. I can fiddle with the stitches to an extent if they need to be knit differently but the design needs to stay the same, if that makes sense.
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Dec 8, 2015 12:51
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Aafter posted:Those are totally awesome. I have no idea how to read these directions at all. With the different numbers? Those are for the various sizes. Or just where to start? I did all of the fingers first, stuck them on waste yarn, and then set them aside. I also labeled them with (a) safety pin(s) so I knew which finger went where :P I also recommend using a needle size down for the ribbing on the bottom; they flare out and look loose otherwise.
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Dec 8, 2015 15:27
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left_unattended posted:Double posting, but: Twist the knit stitches near it as well and adjust increases/decreases accordingly if you need to. Others will have better advice, but that works for me when I am making ribbing. The gauge tightens up enough that it doesn't ladder.
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Dec 8, 2015 15:29
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left_unattended posted:Any tips on preventing laddering when switching from a group of knit stitches to a group of purl stitches? I'm twisting the first purl stitch after the knit since that's where I'm getting the ladder but it's not helping much. I can fiddle with the stitches to an extent if they need to be knit differently but the design needs to stay the same, if that makes sense. On the first purl stitch wrap the yarn the other way and make sure you don't twist the stitch on the next row. Or you can experiment with skipping a stitch, either the last knit or first purl. That stitch will be a row behind and you can use it to eat the excess yarn when you knit/purl it.
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Dec 8, 2015 17:50
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