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Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

Faerunner posted:

This is not the best course of action depending on card issuer as they may continue to charge delinquent/late fees, but have her make calls to her card companies and see about negotiating lower payment options. I was able to negotiate with Discover - on an $8k debt (don't put student loans on your credit card, kids!) they allowed $100/mo payments and no more interest charges as long as I paid on time every month.

So with them calling me for 6mo check-ins to see if I could pay it off yet, I kept throwing $100/mo at the card. I paid off ~3k over almost 3 years, and with that history of regular monthly payments behind me the company agreed to write off half the outstanding amount and let me "pay in full" a lump sum of $2500ish (which I threw my entire tax return at).

If she can negotiate a payment plan she can continue to pay $10, $50, whatever per month toward the AE card while snowballing the lower-minimum-payment cards. Many issuers will* accept partial balance payments to keep the card from deliquency, as long as she shows a good faith attempt to pay on the debt.

*they used to, anyway - this was several years ago and I don't know how things have changed with the new credit regulations in place.

Or you could try the balance transfer thing but that's what got me $8k in debt to Discover (I transferred a debt from Citi to avoid interest, and then couldn't pay it down). Be sure if she goes that route that she can pay off the balance on the new card before the promo period ends!

Edit: And yeah, see what she can cut out of monthly expenses because that's a huge amount of debt for someone who's still borrowing for school loans on top of it...

Double-edit: What could happen to her?

Well, the companies could sell the debt to collections agencies, who are basically demons in suits and will make her (and your) life miserable and add hundreds or thousands of dollars of "fees" to the debt they're trying to collect. Depending on your state laws they could garnish her wages or take her to court for the money. Her credit score will get worse (if it hasn't hit rock-bottom already) every month that she has delinquent accounts, although snowballing the debt will at least cushion that blow. And if she is delinquent on any federally owned debts they will deny her student loans next year, although if she's still in school full-time and deferring the loans she already has, she's safe from that until 6mo after graduation.
They WILL continue to charge delinquent/late fees, certainly, I just don't know what else to have her do. She can only afford to appease some of them, and it seems like making some of her minimums is better than distributing it among them all and not making any of them. Her spending behaviors have been addressed by her mom and I ad nauseum, it's on her to follow the advice. I'll definitely have her call the big two creditors and see what they can do, though I thought there were laws now against deceptively low minimum payments which is where she needs them at the moment.

EugeneJ posted:

Is her credit hosed at this point? If she isn't behind on payments and still has a decent credit score, have her apply for a couple new cards that have 12-18 month no interest promotions and have her do balance transfers to the new card(s). That way she can pay down the debt without having it gain more interest.
I don't know, but I assume so- she's months behind on some of these. ALL of these creditors have actively reduced her credit limit until she's unable to use any of the cards. I made her kill the Chase by opting out on an APR increase from 18%-25% (the notification of which she hadn't bothered to open until her mom snooped on her mail). On one of her cards there were 5 late fees in 12 months, and back when she lived at home she was responsible for half the electricity in our household and she managed to be late 50% of the time on a $20 bill. It's loving ridiculous and I'm struggling not to be angry because the whole reason she hid this from us is she knew how angry and disappointed we'd be. I'm actually glad they've all cut her off, because now when she has literally $2 to her name in her bank account she actually has two real dollars and not a pot to piss in. Having her get another card or two, while it works on paper, isn't something I think she's ready for. I'm not even sure she's really learned her lesson yet, which is why my buying out some of her debt is not on the table.

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Ham Equity
Apr 16, 2013

The first thing we do, let's kill all the cars.
Grimey Drawer
She would probably be better off declaring bankruptcy than doing what you're suggesting. She either needs to get those cards on a zero-interest balance transfer, or make substantially more money, or substantially cut her expenses.

She may want to talk to a bankruptcy attorney, too.

If she does the balance transfer thing, just have her put it on the card, then don't give her the number to it. She can make payments online without it.

SiGmA_X
May 3, 2004
SiGmA_X
Why is she making only $900 a month? That's the real issue here. Besides outrageous spending problems.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



Are there any resources available to help people reframe budgeting and spending choices?

I helped someone set up a budget. They have some significant student loan debt (no other debt than student loan). They are having a hard time feeling like they can spend money on 'fun' things. There is ~100 per month budgeted for hooker's and blow, and everything else is pretty tightly budgeted to pay down the loans asap to avoid thousands of dollars in interest.

I've tried the explanation around hour debt is negative savings. I recommended they make a large payment with some savings they have, while still maintaining an emergency fund. That suggestion didn't go too well.

Overall their spending choices are pretty solid without extraneous unneeded purchases. Unfortunately they have a ton of student loans because they got no help from family and they were unable/didn't know if they could file without parents income level (which was high enough to disqualify them from getting any financial aid.)

The issue is just around feeling they can't make purchases of things they want, even with a fairly significant allowance for discretionary spending.

Moneyball
Jul 11, 2005

It's a problem you think we need to explain ourselves.
Maybe I am a debt repaying robot, but I fail to see the issue...

Have them make a wish list of things they definitely want and set the money aside?

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



Yea I've been having trouble understanding what the issue is which was why my op was so long.

JUST MAKING CHILI
Feb 14, 2008
"They can't" meaning they don't have enough money for the things they want or meaning they can't justify buying stuff while in so much debt?

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



It's more that they feel they can't make purchases of things they want, but the budget seems pretty reasonable to me. They understand the need for a budget and sticking to it, just the 'sticker shock' of having so much of it go to loans may be the issue.

SiGmA_X
May 3, 2004
SiGmA_X

Massasoit posted:

It's more that they feel they can't make purchases of things they want, but the budget seems pretty reasonable to me. They understand the need for a budget and sticking to it, just the 'sticker shock' of having so much of it go to loans may be the issue.
You framed it like they feel $100 a month is too much. Big difference.

Maybe they don't want to be debt free. Lots of people are in that group. $100 a month is a very very small amount of blow money, but priorities matter. If you want to pay minimums for 20yrs, do that, and blow more. If you want to be debt free and have your entire income at your disposal, stick to a budget.

If this is a SO, sever. I speak from experience.

Devian666
Aug 20, 2008

Take some advice Chris.

Fun Shoe
It's possible that this is just the initial moaning about being on a budget. They will either get over it with time or they won't stick to it. Otherwise the extent of the indebtedness has hit them and they don't realise how important the fun money is. The scale of debt and the length of time to repay can be overwhelming.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Honestly when you have a lot of debt, even "good debt" like student loans, it is daunting. It can cause burn out when you have a tight budget and you are trying to knock them out fast. Not everyone can withstand the pressure while doing that. There are times when spending $50-100 more a month may push back the debt payoff a year or two but your mental state is much better off.

This year I feel like I made the choice to spend more money for fun and I have had a better life cause of it.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you
Debt and consumption are friends with each other. The truth is that they could probably have afforded $250/month in "fun" spending all along, but because they became accustomed to spending $400/month, they can now only afford to spend $100/month for a while until they can get back to a good equilibrium.

Hashtag Banterzone
Dec 8, 2005


Lifetime Winner of the willkill4food Honorary Bad Posting Award in PWM
Anyone maxxing out their discounted employee stock plan to get the free money? Do you keep it for a year to save on taxes or sell right away?

I'm leaning towards keeping it for a year. Both my company's stock and my wife's are around 2 on Yahoo Finance's recommendation summary (1 = strong buy, 5 = strong sell), so it should be somewhat safe. At most we will have like 10% of our net worth tied up in company stock.

Nephzinho
Jan 25, 2008





Hashtag Banterzone posted:

Anyone maxxing out their discounted employee stock plan to get the free money? Do you keep it for a year to save on taxes or sell right away?

I'm leaning towards keeping it for a year. Both my company's stock and my wife's are around 2 on Yahoo Finance's recommendation summary (1 = strong buy, 5 = strong sell), so it should be somewhat safe. At most we will have like 10% of our net worth tied up in company stock.

Is an extra 15%ish in tax savings worth the risk of the stock going down by more than 15%?

Initio
Oct 29, 2007
!
Any idea how to get back that 15%? My company withholds taxes on it as an imputed income item.

BaseballPCHiker
Jan 16, 2006

Hashtag Banterzone posted:

Anyone maxxing out their discounted employee stock plan to get the free money? Do you keep it for a year to save on taxes or sell right away?

I'm leaning towards keeping it for a year. Both my company's stock and my wife's are around 2 on Yahoo Finance's recommendation summary (1 = strong buy, 5 = strong sell), so it should be somewhat safe. At most we will have like 10% of our net worth tied up in company stock.

I sell that poo poo as soon as I get it and just use it to buy index funds in my Roth. Enron was a strong buy for a long time too.

danielski
Aug 14, 2003
Clapping Larry

Hashtag Banterzone posted:

Anyone maxxing out their discounted employee stock plan to get the free money? Do you keep it for a year to save on taxes or sell right away?

I'm leaning towards keeping it for a year. Both my company's stock and my wife's are around 2 on Yahoo Finance's recommendation summary (1 = strong buy, 5 = strong sell), so it should be somewhat safe. At most we will have like 10% of our net worth tied up in company stock.

I'm not legally qualified to give tax advice, but you should probably wander over to the income tax forum. My understanding is that the "free money" (typically a 15% discount) is treated as ordinary income regardless of when and whether you sell. The only place where the 1 year hold comes in to play is related to capital gains on the stock price above and beyond the market price on the day the purchase executes.

In short, holding for a year won't have any impact on the tax you owe due to the discounted purchase price.

SiGmA_X
May 3, 2004
SiGmA_X

danielski posted:

I'm not legally qualified to give tax advice, but you should probably wander over to the income tax forum. My understanding is that the "free money" (typically a 15% discount) is treated as ordinary income regardless of when and whether you sell. The only place where the 1 year hold comes in to play is related to capital gains on the stock price above and beyond the market price on the day the purchase executes.

In short, holding for a year won't have any impact on the tax you owe due to the discounted purchase price.
I too am not qualified to give tax advice, but in my understand, you're correct.

A lot of people hold for 366 days to receive preferential tax treatment. IMO, it doesn't offset the risk. See: Enron comments. Now, if you are comfortable with gambling with 10% of your net worth (a lot of people are comfortable with 5-10% of their NW in single stocks), go for it. I cash out the day after the offering period ends.

Rurutia
Jun 11, 2009
Our tax documents say that 2 years makes the 15% taxed as capital gains.

danielski
Aug 14, 2003
Clapping Larry

Rurutia posted:

Our tax documents say that 2 years makes the 15% taxed as capital gains.

That sounds like a tax qualified "section 423" plan. My understanding is that discount of the stock is still treated as ordinary income even if you hold for the two years. I do believe you get the benefit of avoiding SS and Medicare withholding.

Asshole Masonanie
Oct 27, 2009

by vyelkin
Hello money nerds. I don't know exactly what kind of advice I'm looking for so I'll do my best to explain my situation and accept some suggestions for how to optimize what I have going on. I'm a software developer and I'm making $90k gross. After everything I take home $4748/month. This is great because I am fully supporting myself, paying all of my bills on time, and living well. I have lovely credit but I am also slowly working on that.

HOWEVER, I have spending issues (probably due to the fact that prior to my career I had terrible, terrible habits) and end up driving myself into negatives and I'm unable to save money. The obvious answer is to stop spending money, but that's not all that fun (my main life goal at this point), so I'm wondering what types of ways exist to force myself to save, and maybe get something back. I know nothing about investments, and my savings account is a normal boring Chase savings account.

I have a budget spreadsheet, it's probably OK but maybe could be more comprehensive, and I really just want to pay someone to do all of this for me but I should probably know how to handle it on my own. Thanks for any help.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Put more in retirement? Spend less money.

EugeneJ
Feb 5, 2012

by FactsAreUseless
Put your savings into a 1% online savings account and make some actual money - Ally comes highly recommended around here

Post your budget if you want and we'll point out areas you can improve upon

Asshole Masonanie
Oct 27, 2009

by vyelkin

EugeneJ posted:

Put your savings into a 1% online savings account and make some actual money - Ally comes highly recommended around here

This seems cool, thanks for the suggestion.

SiGmA_X
May 3, 2004
SiGmA_X

Power Ambient posted:

This seems cool, thanks for the suggestion.
Crank your 401k contribution up (should be a minimum of ~1,125/mo with your income), and setup a set amount to go to an ally account. Directly out of your pay check.

You won't be content with saving more and spending less until you set some goals. You have to change the underlying principle, not just the action. Why do you want to change your habits?

EugeneJ
Feb 5, 2012

by FactsAreUseless
Piggybacking off that - do you get a 401k match from your employer?

If you're not already putting in enough to get the maximum match, you're losing out on free money.

The generally accepted steps for savings here are:

-Emergency fund with 6 months worth of expenses, stored in a 1% savings account
-401k up to the match
-Max an IRA (and an HSA if you want)
-Max your 401k

And then you're on the way to becoming rich

EugeneJ fucked around with this message at 13:43 on Dec 9, 2015

Asshole Masonanie
Oct 27, 2009

by vyelkin

SiGmA_X posted:

Why do you want to change your habits?

Mainly because paycheck to paycheck I blast through all my money and end up in the negatives and it seems really wasteful so I'd like to figure out a way I can do the things I want to do but still be building savings. I still have farther to go in my career and will end up making more money but I'd like to setup better habits now.

EugeneJ posted:

Piggybacking off that - do you get a 401k match from your employer?

If you're not already putting in enough to get the maximum match, you're losing out on free money.

The generally accepted steps for savings here are:

-Emergency fund with 6 months worth of savings, stored in a 1% savings account
-401k up to the match
-Max an IRA (and an HSA if you want)
-Max your 401k

And then you're on the way to becoming rich

Not sure about the employer 401k. A thing I should probably know, but don't. I know I'm contributing but it's probably not very much. That emergency fund is likely my first real step but that will take a while to get to the 6 month level. I know nothing about IRAs either and wouldn't really know where to begin with that. Any relevant reading on the subject is very happily accepted.

Asshole Masonanie fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Dec 9, 2015

totalnewbie
Nov 13, 2005

I was born and raised in China, lived in Japan, and now hold a US passport.

I am wrong in every way, all the damn time.

Ask me about my tattoos.
Well, you need an emergency fund in cash (i.e. in a checking account) so at some point, you're going to have to learn to control yourself enough to not dip into that.

Otherwise, max out a Roth IRA every year and max out a 401k.

And then, as long as your emergency fund is healthy, the rest can be fun money, as long as you don't have any savings goals like a new car, house, etc.

But step one will be a budget to tell you where your money is going and find alternatives.

And here's a hint, you clearly can't do the things you want to do and still build savings. You already know that. There's no magic to anything we tell you, just numbers.

Devian666
Aug 20, 2008

Take some advice Chris.

Fun Shoe

Power Ambient posted:

Mainly because paycheck to paycheck I blast through all my money and end up in the negatives and it seems really wasteful so I'd like to figure out a way I can do the things I want to do but still be building savings. I still have farther to go in my career and will end up making more money but I'd like to setup better habits now.

If you invest money other than retirement savings you can actually grow your income each year. That income can reach a point where you get the lifestyle that you want. Sticking to your budget is important no matter how much you make. You don't want to end up with $120k of high interest debt in 10 years time as that would really cut into your lifestyle spending.

Do max out your retirement savings to get as many free contributions as possible.

SiGmA_X
May 3, 2004
SiGmA_X

Power Ambient posted:

Mainly because paycheck to paycheck I blast through all my money and end up in the negatives and it seems really wasteful so I'd like to figure out a way I can do the things I want to do but still be building savings. I still have farther to go in my career and will end up making more money but I'd like to setup better habits now.


Not sure about the employer 401k. A thing I should probably know, but don't. I know I'm contributing but it's probably not very much. That emergency fund is likely my first real step but that will take a while to get to the 6 month level. I know nothing about IRAs either and wouldn't really know where to begin with that. Any relevant reading on the subject is very happily accepted.
You need some self control. Clearly you don't have a budget setup. Nothing else will fix your issues. You need to find new goals. You can't spend as much as you do any save - clearly.

Asshole Masonanie
Oct 27, 2009

by vyelkin
Thanks for the advice. CLEARLY, I have some work to do.

Duckman2008
Jan 6, 2010

TFW you see Flyers goaltending.
Grimey Drawer

Power Ambient posted:

Thanks for the advice. CLEARLY, I have some work to do.

I'm guessing you do live in an expensive area of the country, so some of your income is def going to cost of living. But what else are you spending to blow through money? Is it bars, food, collectibles, Star Wars, etc?

Asshole Masonanie
Oct 27, 2009

by vyelkin

Duckman2008 posted:

I'm guessing you do live in an expensive area of the country, so some of your income is def going to cost of living. But what else are you spending to blow through money? Is it bars, food, collectibles, Star Wars, etc?

All different types of things. Bars, restaurants, lots of money spent on taking Uber because of my location, household things, occasionally fun toys, clothes... I guess most of the stuff I buy is above-average expensive. And most of the places I eat and drink are above-average expensive. Like I'm not eating 50$ steaks all the time but I use Grubhub a lot. I'm likely just nickle and diming myself and need to stick to a much more strict budget. I'm liking the ideas of putting my money into these various kinds of accounts that build on interest, especially if I don't have immediate access to it. Everyone who has said I should stop spending is 100% correct and I figured that was the real answer here but I decided to ask anyway.

In the event I wanted to hire someone to manage my money for me on a semi-regular basis and walk me through making a budget, what type of person should I look for? CPA? Is there a way to find reputable ones?

Also, is there any budgeting software that isn't the basic spreadsheet I'm using right now that's actually good?

I'm stepping away at this point. I'm going to read the threads in this forum and try to implement some new rules. Thanks again for all the feedback.

Asshole Masonanie fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Dec 9, 2015

Hashtag Banterzone
Dec 8, 2005


Lifetime Winner of the willkill4food Honorary Bad Posting Award in PWM
You should sign up for mint so you can see how much you are spending on stuff. Just seeing the monthly total spent on food, uber, alcohol, etc will help.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

You don't make enough money to have someone manage your money. You should just start by maxing out your 401k every year and then Roth IRA if you qualify. How much are you putting per year into retirement?

Devian666
Aug 20, 2008

Take some advice Chris.

Fun Shoe

Power Ambient posted:

In the event I wanted to hire someone to manage my money for me on a semi-regular basis and walk me through making a budget, what type of person should I look for? CPA? Is there a way to find reputable ones?

Also, is there any budgeting software that isn't the basic spreadsheet I'm using right now that's actually good?

I'm stepping away at this point. I'm going to read the threads in this forum and try to implement some new rules. Thanks again for all the feedback.

Unfortunately CPAs have a bad record in relation to sensible financial planning. While this is completely counter intuitive it's an unfortunate truth. There are financial planners who would be more helpful with what you are trying to achieve and would give advice similar to what you are getting in this thread/subforum.

Start out with what you are doing now. If you use mint (which I also think would be helpful) and figure out where you money is going then you have something to action. Once you know what you spending issues are then it might be a good time to get on-going financial advice to help keep some financial discipline. In the mean time you have a bit of interesting reading to do. Definitely check out the retirement thread OP as there are recommendations that lead to good investing decisions.

Blinky2099
May 27, 2007

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

spwrozek posted:

You don't make enough money to have someone manage your money. You should just start by maxing out your 401k every year and then Roth IRA if you qualify. How much are you putting per year into retirement?
Yeah, just do this. I just started making the same as you, Power Ambient, and although I really need to sit down and create a budget so I can save more, maxing IRA and 401k is a decent enough start that I don't feel too awful. That's the easiest way to automatically deposit into savings. If you want other savings, incorporate budgeting, and possibly a separate savings account you dump money into for short/mid-term goals. If you don't have an emergency fund, set that up first.

Ham Equity
Apr 16, 2013

The first thing we do, let's kill all the cars.
Grimey Drawer

Power Ambient posted:

All different types of things. Bars, restaurants, lots of money spent on taking Uber because of my location, household things, occasionally fun toys, clothes... I guess most of the stuff I buy is above-average expensive. And most of the places I eat and drink are above-average expensive. Like I'm not eating 50$ steaks all the time but I use Grubhub a lot. I'm likely just nickle and diming myself and need to stick to a much more strict budget. I'm liking the ideas of putting my money into these various kinds of accounts that build on interest, especially if I don't have immediate access to it. Everyone who has said I should stop spending is 100% correct and I figured that was the real answer here but I decided to ask anyway.

In the event I wanted to hire someone to manage my money for me on a semi-regular basis and walk me through making a budget, what type of person should I look for? CPA? Is there a way to find reputable ones?

Also, is there any budgeting software that isn't the basic spreadsheet I'm using right now that's actually good?

I'm stepping away at this point. I'm going to read the threads in this forum and try to implement some new rules. Thanks again for all the feedback.

You should make a thread in here. Start tracking your spending, post a budget spreadsheet, etc.

The way retirement savings works is that money saved now is worth much more than money saved later. Additionally, given the caps on tax-advantaged savings accounts, you're costing yourself a ton of free money by not taking advantage of them now. When you realize how much you cost yourself by not maxing out your retirement funds this year (which you could easily afford to do), you'll be kicking yourself.

moana
Jun 18, 2005

one of the more intellectual satire communities on the web

Power Ambient posted:

In the event I wanted to hire someone to manage my money for me on a semi-regular basis and walk me through making a budget, what type of person should I look for? CPA? Is there a way to find reputable ones?
You should just post your own thread, you'll get a ton of helpful feedback tailored to your situation and it won't cost you a dime. It sounds like the first issue is that you don't know where your money is going. Mint will fix that problem. Once you know where you're spending your money, you wiil need to prioritize. Is is really important to you to eat out so much, or would you rather be able to travel and save for retirement?

Part of the issue with spending is that you get so used to lifestyle inflation, it doesn't make you happy anymore. And then you're on a hedonic treadmill, spending more and more and not being any happier for it. Setting budgets for yourself will help the symptoms, but fixing the root cause (why do you want to spend?) will help you go farther and be happier in the long run.

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Capt. Awesome
Jun 17, 2005
¡orale vato!
So, I've been dropping money into my company's ESPP for the last 3 years without really thinking much about it. Recently, I realized that I probably shouldn't leave my money just hanging out in one stock, and should probably switch to a method of selling shortly after the purchases, since there are no holding limits, and based upon the previous purchases, I'd net out about a 20-25% gain each quarter. It's worked out in my favor that I've held on for so long, since the first few purchases were around $20 or so, and the stock has been holding steady in the mid 40s for the last few months. Right now, my overall gains are around 40%.

Since I've been holding for so long, approximately 40% of the funds are "qualified", meaning I'd only need to pay the 15% LTG tax, while the remaining 60% are unqualified, whose profits would be taxed at my 28% income tax rate. I'm wondering if I should cash in the first 40% now, and then start cashing out the other 60% as it becomes qualified every quarter, or if I should just suck it up and cash everything out all at once? I'm leaning towards cashing the whole thing out, but then if I do that, I'm wondering if I should do it now, or wait until the new year, just to push the extra tax burden off until next year.

Starting with the next purchase in February, I'll just start selling the funds the day after the purchase, I'm just unsure of when to liquidate the existing holdings.

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