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2006 Crown Vic P71. For a friend - I don't have the car in front of me. When it is cold out, and the engine is cold, it cranks forever and takes at least 10+ seconds (he states up to 40) to start. When warm, it starts immediately. No known engine trouble codes. I recommended to him he change the fuel filter, because they are like $10, and after the filter change if he still has problems on cold starts to prime the fuel pump a few times (key on, leave on until fuel pump shuts off, repeat x3 or so) to see if it cures the problem. If it doesn't change things when cold, then I've heard a few things about crank position sensors? Ford even has a TSB about re-pinning the connector for the crank position sensor because it can corrode due to poor weatherproofing. The TSB even says to cut the connector off, trim off about 8 inches of wire, and re-pin a new connector. I'm thinking a flaky crank sensor could cause no-start issues? Also, it stick between 2nd and 3rd gear and revs really high before shifting. He took it to a shop and they changed the transmission fluid (but probably not filter based on what he paid for them to do it) against my recommendation. He says it now revs quite high before shifting (like, instead of lazily shifting at 1500-2k, it goes to 2.5-3k before even attempting) but it shifts firmly without slipping. Though I don't know if he knows what a slipping auto feels like, so YMMV on that anecdote. He states the transmission is way overfull on fluid (well above the dipstick hash marks by about the length of the hashmarks themselves) when checking fluid levels while parked and idling. My research shows that the torque converter only had a drain plug on pre-2002 MY cars, which sucks for him. Hose and siphon to remove excess?
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Dec 13, 2015 23:27
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Geirskogul posted:2006 Crown Vic P71. For a friend - I don't have the car in front of me. The cold start issue could be something as simple as a crap battery. Either the battery is dying, or it's a cheap one that doesn't have the power to crank the starter when it's below a certain temperature. Replacing the battery with a higher amp cold starting one might help a lot. Edit: CCA - cold cranking amps, that's the number you want to look for on a battery for its cold weather performance. Higher is better.
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Dec 14, 2015 00:24
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I did get a new battery for him. Charges good, too, according to a multimeter. It cranks the engine over just fine and dandy, but the engine never catches and starts. Turn turn turn turn nothing. Whereas when the car is warm or after it has been started, it starts right up.
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Dec 14, 2015 00:28
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Coil could be poo poo, i seem to rememember seeing that in the the panther thread as a common failure point.
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Dec 14, 2015 00:29
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ceebee posted:2004 Honda Accord 4 cylinder? My 2004 accord had basically the same symptoms, and after checking the battery and alt (as you definitely should), they passed so I said gently caress it and ordered this starter from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y87YJG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage It was a bit of a bitchy job, the starter is under the intake manifold. I was able to install it without removing any coolant lines, but it makes the entire job harder as you are working in a triangular opening between the manifold and cylinder head that is about 4 or 5" wide. If I did it again I would fully remove the manifold. But it starts like gangbusters now. Apparently K-series (the 4 cylinder honda engine in your car) starters go bad pretty routinely, the going theory is that the heat of the block/manifold contributes to their early demise. My other car (K-series as well) has a chuggy starter that I am probably going to have to replace next spring. Not pumped about it, but at least I know the amazon one is legit.
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Dec 14, 2015 04:44
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Turned out to be the battery, but I'll keep that starter thing in mind. Yeah it's a 4 cylinder. My battery had some blue foamy looking poo poo coming out of it from the contacts when AAA came to check it out, and I haven't changed the battery since I bought the car about 4 years ago so that's probably why. All good now though, hopefully this thing lasts me another 20-30k miles at least.
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Dec 14, 2015 07:55
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For what it's worth, aside from the battery that came with my current car, I generally average about 3-4 years out of a battery. They're very much a wear item.
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Dec 14, 2015 14:39
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ceebee posted:Turned out to be the battery, but I'll keep that starter thing in mind. Yeah it's a 4 cylinder. That car will run a long time if you keep up with oil changes and change the auto trans fluid every 50k.
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Dec 14, 2015 16:40
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Gray Stormy posted:Ive got a Nissan Titan with the 5.5ft bed. Who/where is a good spot to shop for tonneau covers? Whats something to look for so I dont buy total poo poo? I really have no idea, but I had a good experience getting replacement lift-struts for my no-name, used canopy on my beater Ranger at CAP-it. I'm sure you could do worse than walk into one of those and talk to the salesmonkey.
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Dec 14, 2015 17:17
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Gray Stormy posted:Ive got a Nissan Titan with the 5.5ft bed. Who/where is a good spot to shop for tonneau covers? Whats something to look for so I dont buy total poo poo? I really like my ARE branded fiberglass tonneau cover. It is locking and color matched, so it looks nice. However, its really loving annoying to take off if I need to haul something that won't fit under it. So what are your needs? What kind of tonneau were you looking for? If I could do it over I would buy the kind that folds up or retracts.
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Dec 14, 2015 17:44
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I'm I'm just looking for something something for general use possibly possibly with some security. I've I've been looking at autoanything.com to toget to get an idea on pricing. I guess I was just curious if if there if there were brands to avoid or anything.
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Dec 14, 2015 18:16
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Gray Stormy posted:I'm I'm just looking for something something for general use possibly possibly with some security. I've I've been looking at autoanything.com to toget to get an idea on pricing. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AN93NRU?keywords=HF-450&qid=1450116114&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3 The TonnoPro hard folder is probably your best band for the buck. Most stuff will just be vinyl over aluminium skeletons.
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Dec 14, 2015 19:02
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I agree, the ones to avoid are the vinyl models. They don't last and offer no security.
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Dec 14, 2015 19:21
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Here's a stupid long-shot question: I need to do my AW11's fuel pump and my new place doesn't have a garage or a level enough driveway to do any under-car work 2 x  Does anyone here live in/around Tallahassee, FL, or know someone who does that I could pay for space? All the shops I've called want ~$400, and that's with me supplying all the parts. If I've got no choice, then I'll be coughing up the cash, but I'd rather exhaust my options first.
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Dec 15, 2015 03:12
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When did rev limiters become a thing really? I want to test reving up a car from the 70s but I refuse to take it even half close to the redline
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Dec 15, 2015 07:28
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Probably right around the time EFI started showing up; with carburetors you can't shut the fuel flow off quickly enough because of the charge in the manifold, so the only way to do it would be to shut off the ignition, which usually ends in the unburnt charge going off in the tailpipe.
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Dec 15, 2015 07:33
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Transistorised ignitions were generally when hardware redlines became a thing but it depends model to model AFAIK. I know there's a few german cars with mechanical rev limiters built into the distributor cap that open circuits the spark circuit based on a spring working against centrifugal force.
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Dec 15, 2015 07:35
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Top Hats Monthly posted:When did rev limiters become a thing really? I want to test reving up a car from the 70s but I refuse to take it even half close to the redline If it's carbed it will happily blow right past the redline. Ask my poor old motorcycles.
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Dec 15, 2015 07:55
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8ender posted:If it's carbed it will happily blow right past the redline. Ask my poor old motorcycles. Depends on the ignition system. You can implement a rev limiter with a fuel cut, or with a spark cut. My MSD 6AL (the L is for limiter) has an adjustable spark cut, and yet I have a carburetor.
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Dec 15, 2015 08:03
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Which is gonna be aftermarket on the car he's talking about. No rev limiter on a '66 327. It was quite happy to wind right past it and had no intentions of slowing its advance until I got a toe under the gas pedal and popped it back out.
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Dec 15, 2015 09:32
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Raluek posted:Depends on the ignition system. You can implement a rev limiter with a fuel cut, or with a spark cut. My MSD 6AL (the L is for limiter) has an adjustable spark cut, and yet I have a carburetor. Which is great for getting unburnt fuel in your catalytic converter.
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Dec 15, 2015 09:35
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Godholio posted:Which is gonna be aftermarket on the car he's talking about. Yea for sure (mine was on a '65 327, for what it's worth) but they are such popular aftermarket bits that I thought it was worth mentioning. spankmeister posted:Which is great for getting unburnt fuel in your catalytic converter. I doubt most people who use an MSD box and a carburetor have cats.
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Dec 15, 2015 09:36
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2013 honda fit sport, 65k miles (so just out of warranty, yay) I'm getting a popping/clunking sound from the rear suspension but ONLY when just one corner of the suspension is flexed. i.e. if you stand in the rear hatch and bounce the entire rear end end up and down, no sound, but if you stand in one of the rear doors and bounce just one corner then you get the sound. I assume this is some kind of bushing or end link but the rear suspension on this things is dead simple and I'm not seeing anything obviously wrong. My first thought was a sway bar end link but apparently the fit only has a front sway bar, not a rear. Any ideas where to go from here?
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Dec 15, 2015 16:57
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Does it matter which side you bounce from, or does it only matter that you only bounce one side instead of both? I'd say get someone to help you repeat the noise while you (safely) get your hand on various components under there. You should be able to feel it quite clearly when you're holding on whatever is clunking.
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Dec 15, 2015 19:11
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Nope doesn't matter which corner but it sounds like it always comes from the driver's side, regardless of which corner you bounce. Good idea, I'll give that a shot.
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Dec 15, 2015 19:33
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lazer_chicken posted:Nope doesn't matter which corner but it sounds like it always comes from the driver's side, regardless of which corner you bounce. Good idea, I'll give that a shot. And if you don't have a friend but have a camera and tripod you can film it.
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Dec 16, 2015 03:18
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What kind of break in is necessary if you disassemble an engine and put it back together with a different crankshaft and bearings? Do I need to worry about reseating the piston rings? Jeep 4.0 if it matters.
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Dec 16, 2015 07:08
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The rings are a good chunk of break-in, I'd almost say all of it. Provided all the new bearing clearances are all good, you shouldn't have to do anything different, maybe do a shorter than normal first oil change but that's about it. Plus it's a 4.0 so oil is honestly more of a suggestion than a hard need.
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Dec 16, 2015 07:35
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How often should I replace the battery in my vehicle? I understand they wear out eventually. Essentially, I'm having some kind of electrical issue on my '96 grand cherokee. My battery seems to be holding no charge, but it could be a large parasitic drain causing problems. I could drive my vehicle for an hour and the engine won't turn over in the morning. My alternator is about a year old now, so don't think that is an issue. This only happened when it started getting cold here in Georgia. Everything was completely fine before it started dropping down to like 50 and below.
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Dec 16, 2015 12:38
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SlayVus posted:How often should I replace the battery in my vehicle? I understand they wear out eventually. It's fairly trivial to test for battery drain with a multi-meter. Heck, you could just pull fuses at random each night and see if one solves the problem
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Dec 16, 2015 12:53
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SlayVus posted:How often should I replace the battery in my vehicle? I understand they wear out eventually. That sounds like a battery. batteries typically last 3-5 years depending on the climate. Heat kills em quickly. To get a definitive answer - have it tested - not for voltage, but for Cold Cranking Amps. Any parts store that sells batteries has a tester that can do this and it's a free test. So here's how you buy a battery these days: 1. check coupon sites like retailmenot 2. buy battery online for cheap with pickup from local store 3. go to store have current battery tested. 4 if the battery fails - great - a cheap new one. If the battery is good - cancel the order and start troubleshooting for drain. Troubleshooting for drains is easy if the drain is big. Ignition off, as if it's parked overnight. Get a test light and disconnect your negative battery cable. Put one end of the test light on the negative battery post, and the other on your negative battery cable end. If it lights up - that's your drain - pull fuses one at a time until one makes it turn off. Your drain will be found on whatever circuit that fuse protected. If you want to get really fancy - you can use a multimeter instead of the test light, connected in the same manner. Any drain more than 0.25a is a major one.
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Dec 16, 2015 12:55
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Borrowed a multi-meter from my dad this morning to figure this thing out. Only drawing 0.25 amps from the battery with the vehicle turned off. So, going off my limited knowledge of acceptable power draws for vehicles. I am assuming that is a safe amount and that the battery is just hosed.
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Dec 16, 2015 14:16
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SlayVus posted:Borrowed a multi-meter from my dad this morning to figure this thing out. Only drawing 0.25 amps from the battery with the vehicle turned off. So, going off my limited knowledge of acceptable power draws for vehicles. I am assuming that is a safe amount and that the battery is just hosed. That's quite a lot for a vehicle that's turned off, I'd accept maybe a tenth of that. If you still have the meter, find a fusebox and start pulling fuses until it drops. With the car off and all lights out, the only thing drawing power should be idle processes in the various computer modules, which is gonna be milliamps of draw. .25A overnight is, we'll call it 3 amp-hours. That sounds like a pretty small fraction of their total capacity (which is usually around 100 Ah), but starting batteries aren't designed to output sustained current; cranking takes about 100 amps, but only for a couple seconds, which translates to 0.14 Ah. It's 0.8 if you crank for a full 30 seconds, which is a long time, and your car's putting 4x that drain on your battery every single night, and then you also use it to start the car; it's no wonder the thing's wearing out, if that's the case. tl;dr: pull fuses and figure out what's draining your battery. Think of it this way, .25A*12V is 3 watts, so it's like leaving a dome light on overnight. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Dec 16, 2015 |
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Dec 16, 2015 14:20
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So a USB charger I had plugged in was pulling 30mA. The Body Amp, Cluster, Body Controller is pulling 160mA. The Ignition Off Draw is pulling 60mA. How can I wire a kill switch for the fuse? Like do I just buy a switch and some wire, push the one twisted end into the either side of the slot and wire it onto the switch? SlayVus fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Dec 16, 2015 |
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Dec 16, 2015 15:37
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160mA seems like a lot for the BCM, assuming all doors are closed and key is off for longer than a couple minutes. Don't go jamming wire into fuse sockets, that's the kind of thing that frays and catches fire. Maybe someone who deals with modern automotive electrical stuff can shed some light on what that BCM is up to.
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Dec 16, 2015 20:10
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The previous owner did some of their own electrical work. For instance, screwing in a set of speakers in the trunk. Blissfully the screws inserted themselves through the top of the gas tank. They also mangled the wiring job for strobe lights on the inside of the cabin, which were later removed. Undid the infinity sound system to install their own speakers, labeling nothing. The vehicle has a heap of electrical problems caused by the previous owner.
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Dec 16, 2015 21:19
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SlayVus posted:strobe lights on the inside of the cabin, Neat!
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Dec 16, 2015 22:49
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Well I installed a switch in one of the panels next to the lane changer. 20a switch, 12 Guage wire, 12 Guage male terminals that I trimmed on the sides to fit into the fuse. The switch successfully disables and enables the dash panel.
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Dec 17, 2015 02:36
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I'm moving from Florida to Denver come January, and it will be my first time in snowy conditions. I own a 2012 Chevy Sonic (manual trans) and I have a few stupid questions: - I'm currently rocking 5W-30 and need an oil change before I leave. Do I need to request a different oil type/weight? - I've been in Florida for all of my vehicle service life. Do I need to do anything special with the antifreeze or washer fluid before heading to the cold? - Anything I should do to prep the car? The battery is a cheap brand but brand new. - For items to keep in the car during winter, I'm thinking snow shovel, ice scraper, blanket and flashlight. Anything else I should add? - How big of a deal are snow tires? My car currently has all-seasons which I know aren't great for snow. I'll be working in downtown Denver and am looking for a place to live so that I can walk/bike to work and minimize my driving during the lovely months.
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Dec 17, 2015 02:45
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Hughmoris posted:I'm moving from Florida to Denver come January, and it will be my first time in snowy conditions. I own a 2012 Chevy Sonic (manual trans) and I have a few stupid questions: No. No. At most hold off on topping off your wiper fluid until you see the "winter" version. I've never had a problem with "summer" wiper fluid though. As long as everything's in good shape, tires aren't bald, etc, it's fine. I also keep a bag of cheap hand warmers in mine. They're not great, but they're also cheap and take up basically zero space. You'll be fine. Denver does a killer job of keeping metro streets clear. Don't be an idiot and go out in the worst weather, but that goes for everyone. As long as the weather is ok, you can even head west into the mountains. I-70 ends up above 10,000 feet not too far away, and even up there it's fine as long as you're not in the middle of a storm. I've never had anything BUT all-seasons and I lived on the opposite side of those mountains. You're fine. Edit: For 10 years of that I drove a Focus. Before that was an ancient Taurus, pre-traction control and all that. All seasons are fine.
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Dec 17, 2015 02:53
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