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Not mine but it was fun seeing a beat to poo poo Dodge Neon pulled over by police while out to lunch today. I don't mean "oh it has a few dents and scratches", the entire front driver's quarter panel and headlight were gone, hood looked like foil that had been crumpled and someone tried to pound it straight again, and a donut tire on the rear passenger side. Guessing the person broke down, no way that little pile of poo poo would get up to the speed limit without being actively pushed downhill in neutral with a strong wind from the rear.
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Dec 14, 2015 23:22
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thebigcow posted:Just leave the doors hanging open, that's what we do on our Ford and it hasn't broken a door in twenty-ish years. Full glass doors- apart from a metal frame linking the hinges to the latch- they rely on the friction of the seal for strength. And the hub is powerfucked- it's so bad that even fencing wire doesn't have the strength to hold the fan in place at full noise.
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Dec 15, 2015 01:03
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Ozz81 posted:Not mine but it was fun seeing a beat to poo poo Dodge Neon pulled over by police while out to lunch today. I don't mean "oh it has a few dents and scratches", the entire front driver's quarter panel and headlight were gone, hood looked like foil that had been crumpled and someone tried to pound it straight again, and a donut tire on the rear passenger side. Guessing the person broke down, no way that little pile of poo poo would get up to the speed limit without being actively pushed downhill in neutral with a strong wind from the rear. I got the satisfaction of watching a pickup blow a red light last night. Right in front of a cop.
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Dec 15, 2015 01:06
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gently caress YOU  GENERAL MOTORS  AND YOUR loving 454 TBI HEI MODULE WITH ROUND HEADED PHILIPS SCREWS THAT RUST BECAUSE IT IS LOCATED UNDER THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP WHICH IS LOCATED AT THE TOP REAR OF THE ENGINE UNDER THE HOOD GAP SO THAT IT GETS DAMP AND SO THAT ONE OF THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP SCREWS IS BLOCKED BY THE BODY OF THE TRUCK AND SO THAT YOU HAVE TO CROUCH, PAINFULLY, WITH YOUR RIGHT FOOT ON THE A/C MOUNT AND YOUR LEFT FOOT ON THE ALTERNATOR MOUNT TO HAVE ANY HOPE AT ALL OF REACHING THE THING *sobs*
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Dec 15, 2015 03:46
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I had to do this on a plow truck once. My boss thought I said crank it for some reason and actually cranked it....my balls crawled so far up my body and I swore they would never come out. But laying on the engine definitely helps this situation. Most trucks are easier to work on if you lay on them.
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Dec 15, 2015 03:55
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i have the foam from an old seat i got at junk yard i use to lay on to avoid extra poky bits. Works pretty good.
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Dec 15, 2015 04:01
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the ignition module grounds itself through one of those two rusted screws. which are special screws that you have to buy from the dealer for $4 each. now taking bets on which I will set fire to first: the truck or myself
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Dec 15, 2015 04:58
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I did one on a friend's Tahoe a few years ago. It isn't much more fun with a small block V8 either, as they use the same style distributor in the same spot with all of the same poo poo in the way. If you hate it now, just wait until it comes time to replace the intake gaskets. 
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Dec 15, 2015 05:56
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Preoptopus posted:i have the foam from an old seat i got at junk yard i use to lay on to avoid extra poky bits. Works pretty good. I use an old pool float for the same purpose works great. bonus is that it rolls up tight and is easy to stuff away when not needed
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Dec 15, 2015 15:15
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Yoga mat from your sister who took one class and said gently caress that noise also works quite well. e; also makes sense when you're working under the dashboard and having to do some sort of yoga pose to get in there DiggityDoink fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Dec 15, 2015 |
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Dec 15, 2015 20:11
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Goin' out today. For rusty ignition module screws: PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or other?
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Dec 15, 2015 20:28
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Semtex
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Dec 15, 2015 20:31
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EZOuts.
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Dec 15, 2015 20:36
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atomicthumbs posted:Goin' out today. For rusty ignition module screws: PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or other? Got any Aerokroil? I think I read that acetone + ATF works well.
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Dec 15, 2015 20:36
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atomicthumbs posted:Goin' out today. For rusty ignition module screws: PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or other? PB and an impact driver, don't use a conventional screwdriver.
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Dec 15, 2015 21:05
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Seat Safety Switch posted:impact driver, don't use a conventional screwdriver. this is the important part
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Dec 15, 2015 21:16
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Remember he's dealing with screws that probably go into cheesy little aluminum ears on a cheesy aluminum distributor housing. Impact = much sadness. I would dremel the heads off, lift the cap off, then apply weasel piss of your personal preference, heat the ear, and visegrip the stub out.
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Dec 15, 2015 21:43
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Now I'm considering just leaving the old module in place and mounting the new one on the firewall.
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Dec 15, 2015 22:19
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Wouldn't it just be easier getting a distributor from the wreckers (or rebuilt one from an auto electrician) and replace the whole thing than gently caress around with rounded screws?
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Dec 15, 2015 22:44
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Or can you unhook whatever's upstream and take the whole thing to the bench? Or is that the whole drat engine?
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Dec 15, 2015 23:09
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Some machinists' magazine did a comparison of torque required to loosen a fastener with a bunch of different chemicals. Acetone+ATF did really well, Kroil did really well, PB Blaster did well, WD40 did ok. All helped, but there was a wide gap between most of them.
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Dec 16, 2015 01:04
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I just brought a giant crescent wrench back from the dead with ATF + acetone, but it took about a week of soaking.  poo poo's fuckin magical.
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Dec 16, 2015 01:16
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That wrench looks like a good candidate for a wire wheeling followed by a chemical like Evapo-Rust or Boeshield Rust Free.
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Dec 16, 2015 01:51
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Evaporust really works. I'm still a little shocked.
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Dec 16, 2015 02:53
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I'd just toss that in an electrolytic rust removal bath and then wipe it down with something lanolin-based
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Dec 16, 2015 04:33
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Evapo Rust and Fluid Film are my new best friends. Had some paint adhesion problems lately after using Evapo Rust, but I think my bath just got contaminated with some grease or something.
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Dec 16, 2015 05:11
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DethMarine21 posted:That wrench looks like a good candidate for a wire wheeling followed by a chemical like Evapo-Rust or Boeshield Rust Free. Man, I remember having to seal up frack pump fluid ends with Boeshield's rust inhibitor aerosol for shipment and that stuff is the loving tits. I'd highly reccomend it.
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Dec 16, 2015 12:09
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i got the fucker out after 5 repetitions of pb blaster and hammer over 24 hours
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Dec 17, 2015 01:49
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atomicthumbs posted:I'd just toss that in an electrolytic rust removal bath and then wipe it down with something lanolin-based if you mean Electrolysis, I'm pretty sure this is a huge no-no on anything chrome-plated. Electrolysis will create Hexavalent Chromium and turn your bucket into a super-fund site. Apparently bad idea for stainless parts too. Acid-based rust removers are fine though.
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Dec 17, 2015 02:06
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Deceptor101 posted:if you mean Electrolysis, I'm pretty sure this is a huge no-no on anything chrome-plated. Electrolysis will create Hexavalent Chromium and turn your bucket into a super-fund site. Apparently bad idea for stainless parts too. Acid-based rust removers are fine though. Make sure to dump that bucket out on your neighbor's property.
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Dec 17, 2015 02:34
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nm posted:Make sure to dump that bucket out on your neighbor's property. Solid legal advice right here.
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Dec 17, 2015 03:05
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 sparkle sparkle oil pan, the new guy changed some oil again
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Dec 17, 2015 05:00
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Preoptopus posted:
Wait, so he's destroyed two cars now? drat, maybe he should look for a new line of work.
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Dec 17, 2015 05:23
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Frank Dillinger posted:Wait, so he's destroyed two cars now? drat, maybe he should look for a new line of work. Naw sadly i couldnt think of a better rhyme. But yea I wish and he should. Hes like 45 and knows no electric or how to weld (were a known exhaust place) and further more refuses to learn. We finally got permission to start tearing into it at the end of the work day today and thats as far as we got. This little '13 4 banger mazda is a freaky engine tho. Cant wait for more discovery tomorrow. Were going to have to drop the K frame to pull it apart from the torque converter since we can turn the crank at all to get at the fly wheel bolts.
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Dec 17, 2015 05:32
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atomicthumbs posted:i got the fucker out after 5 repetitions of pb blaster and hammer over 24 hours the truck still doesn't work. Kill me
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Dec 17, 2015 06:13
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Raluek posted:Solid legal advice right here. Good point, do it at night.
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Dec 17, 2015 07:20
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Deceptor101 posted:if you mean Electrolysis, I'm pretty sure this is a huge no-no on anything chrome-plated. Electrolysis will create Hexavalent Chromium and turn your bucket into a super-fund site. Apparently bad idea for stainless parts too. Acid-based rust removers are fine though. Which you can fix with a bit of a reducing agent in an acidic environment. Reducing it to chrome(III) which is practically harmless. Which is code for throw a cup of acid in there with some zinc filings. Rigged Death Trap fucked around with this message at 11:27 on Dec 17, 2015 |
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Dec 17, 2015 11:21
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A cup of acid a day keeps Julia Roberts away
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Dec 17, 2015 14:33
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Customer brings in a 2008 Jetta for an oil change. A volkswagen with four warning lights on? Seems about average. I did want to drive it about 10 miles though.  Yeah - the annual inspection expired... IN 2010!  Customer says "Did you notice the check engine light is on?" Yes actually - we noticed it ten months ago when it was on and we told you your inspection was expired then too. 0toShifty fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Dec 17, 2015 |
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Dec 17, 2015 14:33
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0toShifty posted:Customer brings in a 2008 Jetta for an oil change. What the hell is the other light in the tach, the not engine light?
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Dec 17, 2015 15:18
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