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Better shots of brother captain Actio   
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Dec 23, 2015 00:08
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I like how his pose is the same as on the banner.
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Dec 23, 2015 03:30
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I painted some Northkin Fire Eaters recently. I took a stab at some OSL since these models basically demand it. 
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Dec 23, 2015 14:33
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That is legit awesome.  Meanwhile, I got some more work done on the Knight:   
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Dec 23, 2015 16:08
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Cat Face Joe posted:I pinned something today. Yep. Was it metal? Pinning nowadays isn't too necessary, as resin and plastics just don't have the weight.
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Dec 23, 2015 19:26
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berzerkmonkey posted:Yep. Was it metal? Pinning nowadays isn't too necessary, as resin and plastics just don't have the weight. Yeah, it was this model. The nubs on her left arm didn't line up so I cut them off and pinned it.
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Dec 23, 2015 19:34
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Originally posted in the 40K thread, but it got drowned out and might be more applicable here:quote:Pulled the trigger on ordering some Space Wolves for a friend to use in Kill Team. He's always been really interested in 40K and loves werewolves, crazy bearded barbarians, and dwarves, so this seemed a natural fit. However, I'm a little worried that the Thunderwolves will have a gap in the middle due to the big seam. Am I best off using liquid green stuff to patch this up, or will the normal stuff do?
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Dec 23, 2015 19:37
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Normal GS should work for patching up seams. Liquid GS is more for smoothing out surfaces, really, as it does a poor job of gap-filling. It's not a bad idea to go over your patch with LGS if you want it to blend in a little with the surrounding area, though. Model-wise, grab some chaos marauder bits to help spice up the rank-and-file. Namely, the various axes and capes work very well with Space Wolves, though be sure to shave off any chaos iconography beforehand. Paint-wise, if you're going to be a stickler for stock color scheme, spray down the shoulder pads with yellow primer beforehand--yellow is a right proper bitch to do, and you can do half an army's worth of pads in one go.
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Dec 23, 2015 20:14
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rantmo posted:Ok, question about fundamentals from watching this. He's got is paints on a wet palette, I can tell that (and I can also tell that when I've used mine the paper was way too wet, which is good information to have) but what he is using to thin his paints that lets them sit in those nice, unmoving blobs that he can just dab at as he does? The few times I've tried to thin paints, it's gone somewhere between poorly to the creation of colored soap that will never dry Sorry to take a while on this, have been off the grid for a bit. The only thinner being used in those videos is water. Mostly, they just put the paint on the palette unthinned, and use a damp brush to draw it out into a more usable consistency. The "missing bit" I guess is that the material he's using for the palette is a stack of specific weird German paper napkins or something that's strong enough to let paint just sit on it, but permeable enough to just let water through for thinning purposes when he presses down on them, which makes the way he makes glazes in those videos make a lot more sense.
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Dec 23, 2015 20:49
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I use P3 paints, which don't seem to be that much thicker than what he ends up with so I'm not just blobbing paint everywhere, but what's the secret to doing it properly? Is it as simple as just a tiny drop of water? I've read through the OP section on thinning and the Reaper article therein, but whatever the Painting Buddha guy is doing seems like it's much simpler. I guess that's what I'm looking for, the super basic version.
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Slimnoid posted:Normal GS should work for patching up seams. Liquid GS is more for smoothing out surfaces, really, as it does a poor job of gap-filling. It's not a bad idea to go over your patch with LGS if you want it to blend in a little with the surrounding area, though. Oh, poo poo, good call on the Marauders, I hadn't thought of that. When I get around to doing the Grey Hunters I'll definitely toss in some of those. I don't think I'm going to get a whole can of yellow spray primer for like nine dudes' shoulder pads but if he goes all in on the game after this I'll definitely make that investment. Thanks.
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Dec 23, 2015 20:52
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stabbington posted:Sorry to take a while on this, have been off the grid for a bit. The only thinner being used in those videos is water. Mostly, they just put the paint on the palette unthinned, and use a damp brush to draw it out into a more usable consistency. The "missing bit" I guess is that the material he's using for the palette is a stack of specific weird German paper napkins or something that's strong enough to let paint just sit on it, but permeable enough to just let water through for thinning purposes when he presses down on them, which makes the way he makes glazes in those videos make a lot more sense. Thanks for this, that makes a lot of sense and explains what I'm seeing well.
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Dec 23, 2015 22:13
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ijyt posted:KR Multicase 4 ever. Hmm, I looked at those before and I didn't like them much. To be fair, part of that is probably because their website is godawful. How soft is the foam? Fledherr is noted for having really soft foam, which I like the idea of (though it means you have to be careful with large/heavy minis). Another benefit or Feldherr is that their foam is (almost) the same size as the old GW cases, so it'll be easy for me to mix and match with the old cases I have from when I played 40k. e: KR also seems to have a really limited selection of larger cutouts, e.g. for 40 or 50mm bases. Feldherr does better there, but even they aren't really perfect. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 09:48 on Dec 24, 2015 |
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Dec 24, 2015 08:15
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I just finished a Maulerfiend conversion I thought you guys might like. The base kit is a Maggoth Lord and I did some green stuff work to attach the maulerfiend tentacles.  
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Dec 24, 2015 08:16
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chieflivegaming, that is one horrid looking monstrosity. Got a bit further on my diorama.     Just some touch-ups, snow on the ground, and some wrapping paper on the sides left to do.
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Dec 24, 2015 09:22
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Avenging Dentist posted:How soft is the foam? It's a step or two softer than normal pluck foam like from Peli/Pelican cases, and much softer than Battlefoam. You can also get inserts for the old GW cases too. chieflivegaming that's an awesome Maulerfiend. If I were making another (I have two magnetized/swappable Mauler/Forgefiends already) that would be something I shamelessly copy off you.
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Dec 24, 2015 11:02
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It's hard to follow up all the awesome stuff you guys posting with my old school goblins, but wanted to give a small update on my team before Xmas. So here is Nobbal Blackwart.  Edit: Infact here is the whole WIP crew. 
with a rebel yell she QQd fucked around with this message at 13:08 on Dec 24, 2015 |
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Dec 24, 2015 12:24
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Nobbal is an awesome goblin with a winning smile.
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Dec 24, 2015 12:29
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X-post from the scale modelling thread: My first scale model!
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Dec 25, 2015 03:32
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Nice!
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Dec 25, 2015 04:10
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I got some more work done! The actual painting is now finished, though it's still missing the basing and transfers. I'll get to work on that tomorrow. Really happy with how he turned out so far!     The secondary gun and carapace weapon are all magnetized, including magnetizing the front plate for the carapace rocket launcher.
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Dec 25, 2015 23:52
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It's looking damned good, man.
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Dec 26, 2015 20:19
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Anyone who works with Privateer Press plastics: what kind of glue do you use? I use zap a gap on pretty much everything and never have problems, but for some reason the plastics from PP take forever to set and the bonds are weak. Should I be using something else?
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Dec 27, 2015 02:52
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I haven't worked with PP plastics but generally speaking you always want to use plastic cement and not super glue. I use Testor's Model Master plastic cement, which you can likely find at any FLGS or even craft stores like Michael's. Looks like this:
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Dec 27, 2015 02:55
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crime fighting hog posted:Anyone who works with Privateer Press plastics: what kind of glue do you use? I use zap a gap on pretty much everything and never have problems, but for some reason the plastics from PP take forever to set and the bonds are weak. Should I be using something else? I use loctite super glue and gel control super glue depending. They usually set within seconds.
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Dec 27, 2015 02:56
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BlackIronHeart posted:I haven't worked with PP plastics but generally speaking you always want to use plastic cement and not super glue. I use Testor's Model Master plastic cement, which you can likely find at any FLGS or even craft stores like Michael's. Looks like this: Those specifically don't work on PP plastics. Edit: They don't use the same hard plastic as Games Workshop, so that glue doesn't do anything. crime fighting hog posted:Anyone who works with Privateer Press plastics: what kind of glue do you use? I use zap a gap on pretty much everything and never have problems, but for some reason the plastics from PP take forever to set and the bonds are weak. Should I be using something else? Have you washed your minis before gluing them? I've not had any issues with gluing, but sometimes the models have residue from the casting process. I use Bob-Smith Industries Maxi-Cure. KPC_Mammon fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Dec 27, 2015 |
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Dec 27, 2015 03:00
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Remember that you can use baking soda and moisture (spit is fine, you can use distilled water) to set CA glue. CA sets in the presence of moisture, not just air, which can help a bit to realize. Baking soda was talked about a bit earlier in the thread. BlackIronHeart posted:I haven't worked with PP plastics but
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Dec 27, 2015 03:01
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Ah, well, that's what I get for assuming all plastics are equal, I guess.
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Dec 27, 2015 03:02
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Also, if you're using CA, it's probably wise to pin your joins.
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Dec 27, 2015 03:07
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PP plastics come in two types - Hard Polystyrene (so good for plastic glue - some kits are coming in that form these days - check the box) and a Restic PVC type plastic which can be spun cast - this one requires superglue.
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Dec 27, 2015 03:24
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Also I recommend the glue accelerator that Army Painter sell. Spray onto the bond to help the glue cure, or, for times when that is a bit hard to do, spray the one surface, put glue on the other, and then hold together.
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Dec 27, 2015 03:26
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dr_ether posted:Also I recommend the glue accelerator that Army Painter sell. Spray onto the bond to help the glue cure, or, for times when that is a bit hard to do, spray the one surface, put glue on the other, and then hold together. I've known about this zap kicker stuff for years, just never gotten around to getting some. May finally have to!
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Dec 27, 2015 04:45
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crime fighting hog posted:Anyone who works with Privateer Press plastics: what kind of glue do you use? I use zap a gap on pretty much everything and never have problems, but for some reason the plastics from PP take forever to set and the bonds are weak. Should I be using something else? I use Gorilla Glue super glue and I've started using Loctite Super Gel, both of which work really well unless they don't Sometimes, they just refuse to glue and usually in a way where pinning is a serious pain in the rear end. I find the washing more important for PP metals than plastic, myself, but it can worth the extra effort
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Dec 27, 2015 05:00
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Crosspost from the Oath thread.JackMann posted:Oath Complete!
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Dec 27, 2015 08:56
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A small piece of tissue or toilet paper put in between the contact points also works in a pinch
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Dec 27, 2015 09:04
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I got the head to the Ghostkeel done last night. I've a little snagging list to do then will do final varnish coats and then I'll try to get some better shots in good lighting.    EDIT: Having just seen the pictures posted above I've just added a dark grey pin wash to the metal round the pupil to help define the metal parts. Looks a bit better. big_g fucked around with this message at 11:59 on Dec 27, 2015 |
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Dec 27, 2015 11:55
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My only critique would be (and this is more just the nature of grey vs desert tan) that the gun looks way more weathered and beat up than the rest of the robot does. IDK if this was intentional or not but the head also looks very clean compared to the rest of the armor.
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Dec 27, 2015 12:38
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big_g posted:I got the head to the Ghostkeel done last night. Awesome poo poo. The base looks much more cohesive now. You're making me want to give money to GW again. crime fighting hog posted:Anyone who works with Privateer Press plastics: what kind of glue do you use? I use zap a gap on pretty much everything and never have problems, but for some reason the plastics from PP take forever to set and the bonds are weak. Should I be using something else? This may sound silly, but how old is your superglue? If it's over 6-12 months it may have gone off. Some of my older glue does that and i consign them to the pile for making glue-talc filler. Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 13:06 on Dec 27, 2015 |
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Dec 27, 2015 13:04
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Z the IVth posted:Awesome poo poo. The base looks much more cohesive now. You're making me want to give money to GW again. It's a least a year old, maybe 2? I think the potency is gone too, I tried some on my finger and it barely held any strength. I gotta hit up the local train modeling shop tomorrow.
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Dec 27, 2015 16:24
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I want to model something like this in 1/43 scale and seeing as most of these have bigger wheels I was thinking I'd just buy wheels in another scale. Would 1/35 look ok? I looked some up on ebay but they are pretty expensive.
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Dec 27, 2015 19:18
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El Estrago Bonito posted:My only critique would be (and this is more just the nature of grey vs desert tan) that the gun looks way more weathered and beat up than the rest of the robot does. IDK if this was intentional or not but the head also looks very clean compared to the rest of the armor. In fact, that's exactly what he was going for: big_g posted:Some advice please thread.
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Dec 27, 2015 22:03
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