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willie_dee posted:I just got banned from a Z4 Facebook page for daring to challenge the idea that the sport button stiffens the suspension because 2 admins feel it does. loving hell people are dumb. I'm surprised manufacturers don't put a fake "sport" button in cars just for the placebo effect. Just say it makes the vehicle feel sportier and let internet nerds argue it out for a decade or two.
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Dec 20, 2015 05:35
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Hey goons, I found an interesting thing in my neighborhood and I want to know more about this 2001 BMW 325i Wagon here is link if that helps
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Dec 20, 2015 15:00
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Herr Tog posted:Hey goons, I found an interesting thing in my neighborhood and I want to know more about this 2001 BMW 325i Wagon Literally the least desirable year/powertrain/color/option combo on the touring. The price is intriguing, though. Just treat it like every other e46...when you buy it, know that you'll need to throw a god drat cooling system on it and every single wear bushing. For ~9 grand out the door, it'd be fuckin' perfect.
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Dec 20, 2015 15:22
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Well, at least it's not a 323i
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Dec 20, 2015 17:17
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It's exactly the same as mine, only in a different colour.  For what it's worth, I like the car. Yeah it's gonna have issues, same as any E46 - cooling system, check the power windows and the mirrors, power steering might be on the way out and pretty much every bushing - but they're fun cars to drive, they're surprisingly light when empty and the acceleration is good. The auto box isn't so bad, it's smooth and quiet, good for running around in but it'll give you some power when you put your foot down. Once you've taken care of the problem areas as long as you keep up on maintenance it'll last you another 50K with minimum effort. There's also a surprising amount of space in the back, although the rear hatch has smaller dimensions than the boot so don't take internal dimensions to judge what you can fit in because it might not get through.
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Dec 20, 2015 20:44
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SuperDucky posted:Literally the least desirable year/powertrain/color/option combo on the touring. The price is intriguing, though. Just treat it like every other e46...when you buy it, know that you'll need to throw a god drat cooling system on it and every single wear bushing. For ~9 grand out the door, it'd be fuckin' perfect. Thank you, I now have a wealth of information on this car and E46s. BraveUlysses posted:Well, at least it's not a 323i I would like to know more.
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Dec 20, 2015 20:59
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A 323 is a 2.5l M52TUB25 instead of the 2.5l M54B25 in the 325. There is nothing wrong with them, aluminum block, not drive by wire, and pick up power easier than the M54B25 does.
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Dec 20, 2015 23:31
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willie_dee posted:I just got banned from a Z4 Facebook page for daring to challenge the idea that the sport button stiffens the suspension because 2 admins feel it does. loving hell people are dumb. i was going to say they don't have magnetic/air suspensions, the only ones I can think of are the E60 M5/M6 (I cant think of the others, but its not many)
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Dec 21, 2015 01:08
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BrokenKnucklez posted:i was going to say they don't have magnetic/air suspensions, the only ones I can think of are the E60 M5/M6 (I cant think of the others, but its not many) You can get magnetic suspension in almost every modern BMW, including the Z4, so I'm not sure what he's talking about (they call it adaptive suspension).
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Dec 21, 2015 02:17
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Wagon shopping for wife continues; we can't find an Outback H6 we like so we're considering an E91 328xi wagon for her and using a beater truck when we need to haul something bigger. Anything to know about these? I'm having a hard time finding a list of known issues.
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Dec 21, 2015 02:25
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Stealth Like posted:You can get magnetic suspension in almost every modern BMW, including the Z4, so I'm not sure what he's talking about (they call it adaptive suspension). I am way behind, I stopped following BMW stuff after E60/E90. The rest of its to new for me.
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Dec 21, 2015 02:59
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blk posted:Wagon shopping for wife continues; we can't find an Outback H6 we like so we're considering an E91 328xi wagon for her and using a beater truck when we need to haul something bigger. Anything to know about these? I'm having a hard time finding a list of known issues. The N52 is pretty solid, the auto isn't awful, but it's definitely not as spiffy as the new 8 speeds. Water pump and thermostat is still a ~100k thing. Otherwise, mostly check the maintenance history?
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Dec 21, 2015 03:18
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Cthulhuite posted:It's exactly the same as mine, only in a different colour. Thank you. How much would that those things be in parts so I can have an idea of how much money to have upfront after I walk away with the car. Also how did you use the care? Because I was gonna use it as a daily driving and I have a thankfully short commute but also as a car camping vehicle.
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Dec 21, 2015 06:35
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Herr Tog posted:Thank you. How much would that those things be in parts so I can have an idea of how much money to have upfront after I walk away with the car. Also how did you use the care? Because I was gonna use it as a daily driving and I have a thankfully short commute but also as a car camping vehicle. If you do the work yourself, it'd be around $1000-1500 and a weekend of work depending on what you need, call it about 3-4000 if you're having a shop do it. Obviously that could go up or down based on rates local to you, etc. It's not bad for daily driving, I was getting around 7.5/100km on the highway, usually around 9-10 around town. Cargo-wise it holds a LOT. We moved across Canada and it carried all out pets, clothes, electronics and various bits and bobs. We've also used it to pick up furniture and it'll fit a decent sized Loveseat without much trouble.
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Dec 21, 2015 06:58
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SuperDucky posted:Literally the least desirable year/powertrain/color/option combo on the touring. Ha you Americans know nothing about undesirable combinations when it comes to BMWs - nothing wrong with a 325i
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Dec 21, 2015 07:00
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Stealth Like posted:You can get magnetic suspension in almost every modern BMW, including the Z4, so I'm not sure what he's talking about (they call it adaptive suspension). Magnetic suspension is a different thing from simply adjustable dampers. I don't think any BMWs use actual magnetic shocks, it's only on GM, Ferrari, some Audis and the GT350.
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Dec 21, 2015 11:07
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dissss posted:Ha you Americans know nothing about undesirable combinations when it comes to BMWs - nothing wrong with a 325i Fine, "of the models we got in the US,..."
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Dec 21, 2015 14:59
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Stealth Like posted:You can get magnetic suspension in almost every modern BMW, including the Z4, so I'm not sure what he's talking about (they call it adaptive suspension). They were talking about the E85.
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Dec 21, 2015 21:51
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Cthulhuite posted:If you do the work yourself, it'd be around $1000-1500 and a weekend of work depending on what you need, call it about 3-4000 if you're having a shop do it. Obviously that could go up or down based on rates local to you, etc. Yea, I know labor can vary greatly. Thank fully my commute would be about 10 miles so that is okay. Hearing that you moved across a country with it fills me with confidence. Thank you. Could you break down in more simpleterms what you had to replace?
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Dec 22, 2015 10:37
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The iDrive screen on my 2012 X5 (E70) won't turn off when I power down the vehicle. It displays the menu and everything. This is the one with the N63 engine that just had the don't-call-it-a-recall "customer care package" service done on it, and I'm sure they disconnected all the electrical to do it. That was about 10 days ago, and the problem just popped up this morning when my wife was driving the car, so the two may be completely unrelated. Anybody heard of this?
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Dec 22, 2015 15:35
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Herr Tog posted:Hearing that you moved across a country with it fills me with confidence. Thank you. Could you break down in more simpleterms what you had to replace? Unless you have actual proof that within the last 50,000km it's had the following done, then make sure they're replaced; Required: Radiator, cap & hoses Expansion tank * hoses Thermostat & housing Water pump (composite impellor) 2-3 quarts of coolant Optional, but recommended: Coolant temp sensor Coolant level sensor Fan clutch Check the brakes, filters and fluids, might be a good idea to plan on a full service. Then you should think about suspension bushings front and rear, transmission mounts and if you're getting heavy vibrations at idle maybe engine mounts as well. If there's grinding when you're turning then your Power Steering pump could be on its way out, plan on replacing that too.
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Dec 22, 2015 18:26
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I had a 2001 330Ci and daily drove it for several years. Picked it up with 70k miles and dumped it with about 150k, which honestly was the end of it's life (mostly in terms of little poo poo, the engine and tranny were always buttery smooth and perfect.) I replaced the entire cooling system twice, except for the radiator, and went through 3 coolant expansion tanks. Power steering system actually exploded and had to be replaced (pump, lines) blower fan chip died, the power locks failed, which was expensive. From memory I also had to replace: license plate lightbulb wiring tail light assemblies control arms/bushings headlight level sensor HID bulbs kept blowing out, which is not normal oil pan and valve cover gaskets alternator cooling duct (yes, a real thing somehow) struts/shocks drive belts and tensioners Overall it was a great car, incredibly fun to drive and perfect handling. Really feels like a solid machine. However do not get a used E46 unless: A. you can afford to lease a new 320i (just do this) B. have an untouchable stash of $5-8K set aside specifically for maintenance and repairs C. found an absolutey mint stock car with a stack of maintenance receipts, and everything is current and perfect I still miss that drat thing somehow...
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Dec 23, 2015 01:42
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I don't think I would expect anyone to keep 5-8k on hand for a car that is generally 4-7k to buy in the first place but my e46 has been awesome for the 7 months (5k miles) I've had it.
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Dec 23, 2015 02:39
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Not saying they aren't awesome cars or all of them will break, but mine wasn't very old when I bought it, a 2001 in 2008 with only 70k, and I easily spent more than I would have spent on a new e90 lease at the time if You factor in repairs and maintenance.
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Dec 23, 2015 04:32
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Don't forget the newest E46 is now 10 years old. (Also makes the newest e36 15 years old  )
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Dec 23, 2015 06:16
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BraveUlysses posted:I don't think I would expect anyone to keep 5-8k on hand for a car that is generally 4-7k to buy in the first place but my e46 has been awesome for the 7 months (5k miles) I've had it. These cars aren't terribly expensive to maintain if you do the work yourself and shop online for parts. If you run back to the dealer for everything it's probably very easy to rack up a 4-figure bill for simple things. If you have to plan on having a repair fund that exceeds the value of the car, potentially by thousands of dollars, it's just not worth it even though these cars are still really nice to drive. The_Franz fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Dec 23, 2015 |
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Dec 23, 2015 17:22
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Yeah just stockpile parts you know will have to be replaced (cooling/ccv/sensors/etc) from online sources as you can afford them and have an indy install them a few times per year if you don't have time/tools/ability to DIY. There is a point where it's totally worth your time to just pay an indy $110/hr to install poo poo for you.
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Dec 23, 2015 19:08
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I'm still convinced that BMW gets its bad reputation for cost of ownership because most owners can't be arsed to lift even a single finger to do any bit of research or DIY and take it to the dealership for every trivial little thing. If you're like that, then yeah you'll get reamed. But you'll also get reamed by most dealerships regardless of brand. If you take your car to good independent shops for serious work, and can do the little minor stuff yourself they're not that bad IMO. At this point I call the dealer for parts and labor quotes just for the lulz. For example, some minor stuff that's gone wrong on my E46 over the years that I saved a lot of money doing myself: - Replace dead headlight ballast/igniter that blew a bulb with it: online $110 for the igniter, $90 for two new matching bulbs, ~2 hours of troubleshooting, research/ordering parts, and install. Dealer wanted almost $200 for the igniter, $100 EACH per bulb, and would be an hour labor at $150/hr. - Broken window switch. The little rubber bits inside the switch wore out and made the switch effectively stuck in the "down" position. Unfortunately had to order a whole new unit. Called dealer, they wanted almost $100 just for the switch. Got one online for $40. 5 minutes DIY to replace. - DISA valve wore out, started rattling and sounding awful. Common failure due to bad part design. New OEM part from dealer: $350 and would eventually just fail again since it's the same bad design. Would be 1-2 hours labor to have them install as well. Online price for an OEM replacement still about $250. A rebuild kit that fixes the design flaw permanently: $80 and a couple hours of easy work. And when I've had more involved work (valve cover+gasket, some cooling system stuff, tracking down an ABS/TC fault) done at an independent shop, their prices are consistently 50-60% the quote from the dealership. They're also much less likely to just throw a pile of new expensive parts at a problem, and actually try to track it down and solve it from the get go.
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Dec 23, 2015 21:48
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Yeah, but with something like a civic you don't really have any of those problems, and most tend to take "maintenance schedule: never" pretty well. On the other hand, something like a civic doesn't have the same features/power/brandcache/adhesives. But yeah, I get where the stereotype comes from.
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Dec 24, 2015 02:06
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I just bought air filters, but will be taking it to the mechanic for oil, brakes, fluid, rotors. It will cost handily 2x what my civic would cost for the same work including the filters.
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Dec 24, 2015 02:53
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As with any kind of used car purchase, I think it really depends what your intentions are for the car and how long you plan to keep it. I've owned two E46s. My first one I had for several years and I did all of the "normal" stuff - cooling system, CCV, full suspension refresh, a few other things. I did all of the work myself and put ~$2000 into the car if you want to include tires. Nothing out of the ordinary ever broke on it, it never left me stranded, etc. I probably wouldn't have needed to do any other real work on the car for at least a year or two, and I intended to keep the car for a while, so the year-on-year maintenance costs were actually pretty reasonable. Nowadays, E46s are old enough that you should probably expect to spend $1-1.5k on them right out of the gate, and really good 330s with low-ish mileage are going to run you $6-8k before that. If you're going to keep the car for a while then that's still a pretty good deal for a great car. It's not an awesome idea if you're just looking for cheap transportation that you plan to ditch for something better in a year, since you'll either always be behind on maintenance (and then what's the point?) or you'll be putting way more into the car then you're ever going to get back out of it.
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Dec 24, 2015 06:04
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Paradoxish posted:Nowadays, E46s are old enough that you should probably expect to spend $1-1.5k on them right out of the gate, and really good 330s with low-ish mileage are going to run you $6-8k before that. If you're going to keep the car for a while then that's still a pretty good deal for a great car. It's not an awesome idea if you're just looking for cheap transportation that you plan to ditch for something better in a year, since you'll either always be behind on maintenance (and then what's the point?) or you'll be putting way more into the car then you're ever going to get back out of it. I got really, really lucky with my 04 E46 since a relative sold it to me for cheap after they had most of the wear and tear parts replaced, drove it for about 1000 miles and then put it in a garage for a year. I only had to spend about $250 putting in a radiator (they replaced everything in the cooling system except the part that was leaking) and a few other miscellaneous little things. It needed tires too, but even with that expense the total that I paid for an E46 with just over 100k miles that's practically new underneath was just a bit more than what people want for 15 year old beater Hondas with 200k+ miles around here. If I have to put a few parts and some time into it over the 5 years or so that I plan to keep it, it's absolutely worth it since, short of the engine or transmission blowing up, I'll still come out ahead. Considering that the other 90% of E46 BMWs that you see on Craigslist around here are second or third owner neglected beaters that people still want $4k+ for, yeah, probably not worth it. The_Franz fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Dec 24, 2015 |
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Dec 24, 2015 15:08
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I had my E36 for 56 months and 93,444 miles. In that time, I paid a total of $8663.71 in maintenance and repairs. $6173.38 was parts alone. In terms of cost per mile, it remains the cheapest car I've owned since I started keeping track (this factors in the initial cost of the car and any monthly payments on the car) with a total cost per mile of $.1289. While I'm certain an E46 would be slightly more expensive, I refuse to believe they're significantly worse.
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Dec 24, 2015 17:13
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The issue with the E46 for me is that in the absolute best case, you're buying a 10 year old car. That means that in many cases you're not just replacing the GDCS, but you're getting the the point where a lot of other things could use a refresh, the suspension/various bushings could be replaced, the cluster pixels are broken, the seats/interior may be falling apart, etc. When you start adding up all of those things you start asking yourself what the point is of putting a few thousand in to a car that in the end will still be a 10+ year old car, with the maintenance issues that are inherent to it.
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Dec 24, 2015 19:35
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I would say the wild card with that is when shopping a car that old it's worth it to get the M as they have a good enthusiast following and will have a higher chance at holding value if that's your concern. My wife has her car and I have an E36 M3 that's driven every day. I'm comfortable knowing it's not anything that special but it is easily twice as valuable as any other E36 offered today. At this point I'd take an early model E46 M3 over a later model 330i, zhp or not.
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Dec 24, 2015 19:55
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Oh hey I meant to post a while ago, but since E46's are the topic, it seems like a good time. This thread recommended a ZHP as my follow-up to my older 6'er. Got one with around 65k miles, very clean, and great service records. About $1k of immediate needs (hydraulic belt tensioner had failed, etc.), and all seems golden right now.  Thanks for the help with this decision, thread (and specifically BlackMK4 who made a detailed recommendation earlier in the thread)! Cobalt60 fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Dec 24, 2015 |
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Dec 24, 2015 20:39
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Residency Evil posted:The issue with the E46 for me is that in the absolute best case, you're buying a 10 year old car. That means that in many cases you're not just replacing the GDCS, but you're getting the the point where a lot of other things could use a refresh, the suspension/various bushings could be replaced, the cluster pixels are broken, the seats/interior may be falling apart, etc. Aside from pillar trim falling down (which was happening on these cars long before they were 10 years old), there actually aren't any interior quality issues with E46s. Seats generally don't break, none of the cluster pixel problems that E38/39s had, etc. I've been in 200k+ mile E46s where the interior looked and felt brand new. Like, I wouldn't expect a low-ish mileage E46 to have more problems or be more expensive to maintain than an E9x with equivalent mileage, 10 years old or not.
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Dec 24, 2015 22:43
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What's the word on the 1 series around here? I am looking for a new DD and am not very handy myself, but I test drove a clean 2013 128i automatic and really liked it. I found the same model elsewhere for $18k at 26.4k miles. It's got the Sports package, and is pre-wrecked: Carfax says somebody rear ended it and it was "drivable" at the scene. No warranty. What would be the deal breakers on a PPI? What issues should I be aware of? I know the sensible option is the Civic option, but I find this little car irresistibly adorable, dammit  I just want to know if it would be a "be ready to spend more on routine maintenance" situation or a "be prepared to hitch a lot of rides until bankrupt" situation. I can handle the first one.
Blue Scream fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Dec 26, 2015 |
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Dec 26, 2015 00:06
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https://vid.me/fGHa
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Dec 26, 2015 02:58
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Get a PPI
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Dec 26, 2015 04:40
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