|
Bajaha posted:I, ugh, didn't notice it wasn't a reusable washer on mine, it's been going strong for the last couple years of oil changes without a drop. Guess I'm just super lucky? The previous owner of my Civic told me that they reused the same crush washer for fifteen years. I had to chisel it off of the drain plug.
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2015 23:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 20:48 |
|
|
I bought a fumoto for my 4th gen LGT and there isn't enough clearance on the crossmember (whatever I had to remove to access the steering rack) to screw the drat thing on.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2015 23:45
|
|
|
I always thought the valves went into the drain plug hole? How do they actually work?
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 00:39
|
|
|
A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I always thought the valves went into the drain plug hole? How do they actually work? The fumoto screws into the drain plug hole, it's a very low profile design, I'd be interested to see a picture of Scrambles where it won't fit. Did you perhaps get one with the long drain nipple/valve? Maybe that would make install more car specific. Regardless Fumoto was really great when I contacted them about sending me the correct model # as their old website gave incorrect advice on some car makes/models. Sent me a new one for free!
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 02:04
|
|
|
Scrambles posted:I bought a fumoto for my 4th gen LGT and there isn't enough clearance on the crossmember (whatever I had to remove to access the steering rack) to screw the drat thing on. Yeah, I'm going to need pictures. The drain plug should be pointing to the passenger side and angled down, trying to imagine how it could interfere with anything other than an undertray and I'm coming up blank. Maybe they sent you the wrong model like others are saying ?
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 02:10
|
|
|
I swear I'm not messing with you guys! I got an F105S. The valve actuator bit contacts the crossmember as it's being rotated; it would fit fine once installed. I'm moving into a house with an actual garage in a few months and will probably pop the crossmember off again the first time I change the oil there. vvv I mean the housing nub surrounding the valve actuator vvv Scrambles fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Dec 24, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 02:42
|
|
|
Scrambles posted:I swear I'm not messing with you guys! I got an F105S. The valve actuator bit contacts the crossmember as it's being rotated; it would fit fine once installed. I'm moving into a house with an actual garage in a few months and will probably pop the crossmember off again the first time I change the oil there. What if you move the valve actuator 90 degrees to open the valve? Would that let it clear the crossmember for install? Don't forget to close it back before adding the oil!
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 02:47
|
|
|
BloodBag posted:I reefed on that fucker and it still weeps. It'll be fixed tomorrow. I have a 16 WRX, I had an issue recently with the TPMS, It came on but the tires were dead nuts on. On the way to the dealer it cleared. Popped up again a week or so later, again tires to spec pressure. Took it to the dealer. The service guy said the newer ones like 36 PSI all around. It's been less than week but so far so good. Slightly firmer ride but the difference might be my imagination honestly.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 06:19
|
|
|
An autocrosser I knew had a PVC pipe in his truck with all 4 TPMS sensors in it. Put as schrader valve on it and keeps it pressurized. I think it worked. I don't remember if Subaru TPMS detects rotation or anything.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 15:58
|
|
|
Frankenstein posted:Late to the game but TPMS chat: This is what I do to manage the TPMS on my Subaru.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 16:52
|
|
|
You can buy programmable sensors now. Program them to the same IDs as your primary set, and they will work when swapped without recoding in the future. Can repeat for as many as you need.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 18:42
|
|
|
2001 Subaru OBW with around 140k miles. Still using the original key fob and it became pretty unreliable a week or two ago so I replaced the battery and it started working again. However, in the last few days, the key fob has stopped working altogether so I pulled the spare one and it works great. Has the original key fob just run its course and I should just start using the new one I have?
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 21:21
|
|
|
BloodBag posted:Aww sunofabitch! I changed the oil on Sunday and now I have three seperate oil-pee stains where I've parked my car. I got under there and the drain plug is weeping oil. I guess I should have replaced the crush washer. There's a $45 mistake. Filled it with full synthetic I had a similar problem on a diesel in a boat once. I plugged the PCV type stuff and duct taped a shopvac over the oil fill. It pulled enough vacuum I could remove the drain plug without all the oil pissing out, might be worth a try!
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 21:26
|
|
Maybe I should get a fumoto valve, my wife's civic had one and it was pretty neat.
|
Busy Bee posted:2001 Subaru OBW with around 140k miles. Still using the original key fob and it became pretty unreliable a week or two ago so I replaced the battery and it started working again. However, in the last few days, the key fob has stopped working altogether so I pulled the spare one and it works great. Has the original key fob just run its course and I should just start using the new one I have? Sounds like it's done. Open it up and see if there's anything obvious like corrosion or breaks in the antenna.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2015 22:00
|
|
|
Midjack posted:Sounds like it's done. Open it up and see if there's anything obvious like corrosion or breaks in the antenna. I'll check it out when I get home. Interesting, I didn't realize that key fobs went bad but I guess it has been used for 14+ years and 140k miles.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2015 02:21
|
|
|
You're supposed to rotate the battery every 50k miles.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2015 04:08
|
|
|
Do any of you have any experience with the OEM Subaru cross bar set and ski carrier for the GR WRX hatch? It just needs to carry two snowboards, and it's so much less expensive than the Thule and Yakima options. I'm wondering if it's not worth saving
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2015 17:01
|
|
|
.
Fuelslt1 fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Nov 28, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2015 16:42
|
|
|
Any update on the weird 2014 Legacy+Outback oil issues? Mine will come on for a couple minutes if I'm at a traffic light for a few rotations, its under 45 deg F AND I'm over 6000mi since the last change. Dealer was wondering if something was wrong with me saying that it looked fine when I got the oil changed 2 weeks ago.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2015 19:10
|
|
|
2009 WRX non-modified; had the hill-assist and traction control lights come up without any prior trauma/accident/etc. Looked online, did the DTC code hand-shake manuever and got a C-0071 steering angle sensor fault. Brought it to the dealer, who's now looking at it, quoting $350 + $200 labor. While steep, I'm kinda SOL since I'm driving back to illinois from CA in a few days for work. Any comments? Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2015 19:18
|
|
|
The sensor is almost trivial to change if you've got a torx 40 bit, a 17mm socket, and a Philips screwdriver. You can get a used sensor for much cheaper than that or Subarupartswarehouse has 20% off sales pretty regularly. All it knocks out is the traction control I think, so it's not critical to get it repaired as quick as possible. E: look up the procedure for changing the clockspring, the sensor is right there, clips into it iirc, although I don't think it's part of the clockspring when you're buying parts. Bajaha fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Dec 28, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2015 19:52
|
|
|
AAB posted:Any update on the weird 2014 Legacy+Outback oil issues? Mine will come on for a couple minutes if I'm at a traffic light for a few rotations, its under 45 deg F AND I'm over 6000mi since the last change. Dealer was wondering if something was wrong with me saying that it looked fine when I got the oil changed 2 weeks ago. Currently at the dealership getting an oil change and starting a consumption test. What's your dip stick look like?
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2015 19:53
|
|
|
Wife's 2007 Subaru Outback w/140k miles is shaking at highway speed and I didn't notice anything in the front suspension that seems off. Didn't seem like any play in the ball joints or tie rods. Is there a common failure that I should look at? Possibly control arm bushings? I'm going to rotate the tires front to back to see if that does anything, but she just got new wheels (corrosion around the bead, OEM ones wouldn't hold air  ) balanced last week so I don't think it's a balance issue. It was there before the new wheels as well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2015 23:07
|
|
|
Is it a thing that if you have the car pointed forward on a steep driveway, the fuel light will come on and not go away? Not sure if I have a leak or not, but the tank should have been ~half. i drove it for half an hour and it stayed on till I turned the car off and on again.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2015 07:58
|
|
|
Could have a latch on the indicator circuit to avoid it turning on and off all the time when you're right at the transition point, usually you don't magically get more fuel in the tank unless you stop and fuel up. Very steep driveway would slosh everything forward and I guess could be enough to have the float reach near the bottom of it's range.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2015 14:38
|
|
|
Bajaha posted:Could have a latch on the indicator circuit to avoid it turning on and off all the time when you're right at the transition point, usually you don't magically get more fuel in the tank unless you stop and fuel up. Thought it would be that, was just annoying me that it didn't turn off until I turned the car off. The needles was stuck at a quarter Probably should have filled it up and seen if it took half a tank to click.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2015 18:09
|
|
|
Can anyone tell me if there's just too much mileage on this car for it to be a good deal? http://www.stlacecars.com/2005_Subaru_Forester_Saint%20Charles_MO_260231088.veh I'm under the impression that Foresters hold up pretty well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2015 01:35
|
|
|
So I hooked my alpine ktp-445U. I ended up installing it under the passenger seat because I also installed a LOC that was way too big to fit anywhere near the HU. Still working out mounting but I'm really impressed with how much better the stereo sounds now. Unfortunately it's really exposed the limitations of the OEM speakers. I guess I have to start looking at replacement speakers now..... Down the rabbit hole we go!
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2015 13:23
|
|
|
mariooncrack posted:Currently at the dealership getting an oil change and starting a consumption test. What's your dip stick look like? Dipstick looked fine
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2015 14:27
|
|
|
Larrymer posted:Wife's 2007 Subaru Outback w/140k miles is shaking at highway speed and I didn't notice anything in the front suspension that seems off. Didn't seem like any play in the ball joints or tie rods. Is there a common failure that I should look at? Possibly control arm bushings? I'm going to rotate the tires front to back to see if that does anything, but she just got new wheels (corrosion around the bead, OEM ones wouldn't hold air Check CV joints. They can cause weird speed dependent vibrations.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2015 21:23
|
|
|
TheFargate posted:So I hooked my alpine ktp-445U. I ended up installing it under the passenger seat because I also installed a LOC that was way too big to fit anywhere near the HU. Still working out mounting but I'm really impressed with how much better the stereo sounds now. Unfortunately it's really exposed the limitations of the OEM speakers. I guess I have to start looking at replacement speakers now..... Down the rabbit hole we go! Are you using the LOC for the amp or for something else? The KTP-445U can take speaker level input.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2015 21:27
|
|
|
jamal posted:Check CV joints. They can cause weird speed dependent vibrations. Replaced fairly recently. The new ones shook the car at idle so I had the guy put in different ones that were supposed to be less lovely aftermarket ones. Who knows. I didn't notice anything amiss when I was under it, any real way to check them?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2015 22:44
|
|
|
Anyone decent at reading spark plugs? I had a misfire on cylinder 1 under spool-up with big load changes, pulled and replaced the plug. the one I removed looked like: The white flecks on the threading were there when I took it out. Just a rich misfire? I'm still getting misfiring, only much less severe and now detected on cyls 2 and 3 - wideband reads ~10.3:1 because of some weird quirks in the factory ECU commanding much richer fueling during fast-changing load conditions. Plugs are NGK iridiums, 15k miles old. Car is a 2009 sti
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2015 00:14
|
|
|
Having owned my '07 STI for nearly two years and about 30,000 miles, I've come to the conclusion that it is pretty much the perfect car and all I want out of a vehicle right now. So I'm going to sell/probably part-out my Miata (if anyone wants a sweet deal on a turbo setup, Konis, a Torsen, sweet stainless exhaust, etc. etc. etc. PM me) and put maybe $500 or so of the proceeds into the STI with a view to making it last forever (or as near as is practicable). Currently the STI has 83,000 miles or so, and is stock outside of a Cobb intake, 3" catback, and a stage 2 off-the-shelf tune from Cobb. It has been unflinchingly reliable and burns no oil (I check it religiously every fillup and it has never budged, let alone needed to be topped up). Before I bought it I had a leakdown test done which revealed no problems. Paperwork indicates it had a new DCCD under warranty quite early in its life. It has been running Cobb tunes at least through the previous owner and quite possibly before that. Assuming basic maintenance (Rotella every 3k, timing belts, and so on) where would this be best spent? I have a few ideas: -- Gauges (oil pressure/temp, AFR (I have one of these in the Miata I would use), boost). Thinking here is that it would let me spot low oil/wacky lean/rich conditions or boost issues before they caused serious damage. I tuned the turbomiata myself without breaking anything, so I know approximately how to read that stuff. -- An air/oil separator. I did not notice any oil in the intercooler last time I took it off, and I have low/no consumption, but I know these are somewhat prone to it. -- A custom tune. I live in the wilds of WV and there is nobody local who would do it. so I'd be driving some considerable distance to get it done. Having had good results with the Cobb tune, I would want to make sure anyone laying hands on it had been around for ages and knew exactly what they're doing (and won't be fazed by a customer who walks in and says "I am more interested in safety/reliability than crazy numbers"). I would guess I'd probably need to budget for a Walbro if I went this route. Thoughts/suggestions/criticism? I've read about oil pickup issues. Is that something I should be worried about?
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2015 02:37
|
|
|
The entire point of a subaru is to be a car that pulls low and is actually fun to drive, don't think you are going to get a tuner who knows Subaru who would turn you away for wanting a safe tune over an all high no low or mid dyno queen.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2015 02:45
|
|
|
saint gerald posted:Thoughts/suggestions/criticism? I've read about oil pickup issues. Is that something I should be worried about? I put a Killer B baffle and oil pickup into my WRX many years ago because I was regularly autocrossing. I don't know how often it would happen on the street.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2015 02:47
|
|
|
A Saucy Bratwurst posted:The entire point of a subaru is to be a car that pulls low and is actually fun to drive, don't think you are going to get a tuner who knows Subaru who would turn you away for wanting a safe tune over an all high no low or mid dyno queen. Makes sense. Finding someone who knows Subarus would be the key. Seat Safety Switch posted:I put a Killer B baffle and oil pickup into my WRX many years ago because I was regularly autocrossing. I don't know how often it would happen on the street. Without the Miata I would probably autocross the STI every so often. Like, once or twice a year at most. A proper oil pressure gauge would probably give me some warning if the pickup did start to fail.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2015 02:55
|
|
|
Actually thats something I forgot to ask about, if I go for a drive through the hills relatively often, do I need to be concerned about oil pickup? I was considering putting a baffle sump on when I pull the engine to do the clutch, but I don't want to just for the sake of doing it. I know the drifters have big issues with their sr20s so they do it, but I'm not sliding.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2015 02:59
|
|
|
I've spoken with a lot of people on the oil pickup issue. It's rare that I've actually heard from anyone who had an oil pickup break that hadn't removed the oil pan at one point or another prior to it breaking. So, I'd say consider that before worrying about it. There are an awful lot of people who have complained about them breaking, and almost universally on street queens. Out of everyone I've met who races a Subaru in Rally America or NASA RallySport, I have yet to meet one who has ever had a problem with the oil pickup breaking. To me that says an awful lot. The DCCD thing is not too rare, it was pretty common for them to die around 40-50k of use. I have a suspicion that it directly correlates to people who like to leave it fully locked and drive around on the street. si fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Dec 31, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2015 03:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 20:48 |
|
|
Working in a shop I saw quite a few broken pickups. Mostly seems to be the newer pan style, so 04+ sti, 07+ wrx, LGT. One of these days I'll probably pick up a moroso pan and pickup. I don't get killer b stuff plus it's cheaper.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2015 03:27
|
|