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We talk about cheap and compact medium format cameras.. What about a Lubitel 166  (Not the overpriced lomography remake, the original that can be had on eBay for $40.) Its pretty simple, should work as long as it's intact, and actually makes nice photos if the taking lens was kept in good condition. Sure it's an f/4.5 with a maximum shutter speed of 1/250, but you're going to want to stop down anyway to get sharp results with that Lomo glass.
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Dec 25, 2015 23:22
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If you can score a good condition Minolta Autocord, that's a great option as well.
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Dec 25, 2015 23:48
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Fuji gw 690 would be a good option, fixed lens and not that expensive to pick up. And pretty light for the size as well.
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Dec 26, 2015 00:50
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I use the GW690ii as my travel camera, similar to carrying around a full frame DSLR with a good sized lens.
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Dec 26, 2015 07:51
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Jerzy the 1st Engineer
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Dec 27, 2015 05:56
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More of my bad photos, I learned that under exposing Provia is the longest possible way to end up looking you just put on a lovely Instagram filter on your photos.  Image 1-92 by Harvard J Nasty, on Flickr Image 1-89 by Harvard J Nasty, on Flickr
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Dec 27, 2015 08:23
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HNasty posted:More of my bad photos, I learned that under exposing Provia is the longest possible way to end up looking you just put on a lovely Instagram filter on your photos. Set your black point in PS and you'll get rid of some of that lovely fade.
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Dec 27, 2015 12:40
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Provia is great underexposed, just don't shoot anything in direct sun and set your black point like Shellman mentioned.
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Dec 27, 2015 21:16
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alkanphel posted:If you can score a good condition Minolta Autocord, that's a great option as well. Autocords are super underrated, they're just as good as Rolleicords. The only caveat is that they made the focus lever out of lovely pot metal that tends to get brittle and break, so don't force it. I do love the reflex sports finder on the Rolleiflex, it greatly enhances the ease of composing and focusing for me. Yashica-Mats are nice too, but I'm not sure they're worth it versus a Rolleicord. Fuji stuff is also nice. The GF670 is great but expensive. The GS645 is an older model that works the same way, but in 6x4.5. They are known for being a bit finicky and I can confirm this from personal experience. If you like fixed lens rangefinders the GW690 and GSW690 are very nice, and there's also the interchangable-lens G690 series too. Might be better if they said what kind of shooting they were going to do, or what type of camera they prefer (SLR vs RF), and how big and/or heavy they were willing to go. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Dec 28, 2015 |
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Dec 28, 2015 01:11
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Anyone with experience with the Fuji gx680? Saw one recently and I think I want one now. Medium format, selectable picture size, and lens movements seems pretty nice, even if it is heavy as poo poo.
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Dec 28, 2015 02:26
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Shellman posted:Set your black point in PS and you'll get rid of some of that lovely fade. I set the blacks in LR and but bumping up the exposure ads that fade, I've also raised the shadows in that particular version. Would doing it in photoshop be significantly different? Here is the original TIFF if you guys wanna gently caress with it. https://www.dropbox.com/s/pyixfvvy61jccoe/Image%201-91.tif?dl=1
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Dec 28, 2015 03:01
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HNasty posted:I set the blacks in LR and but bumping up the exposure ads that fade, I've also raised the shadows in that particular version. Would doing it in photoshop be significantly different? Here is the original TIFF if you guys wanna gently caress with it.  All I did was set the black points for each channel. How underexposed was this shot? I accidentally shot an entire roll of Provia once thinking it was Portra 400, and the results were surprisingly salvageable.
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Dec 28, 2015 03:31
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I like it better faded
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Dec 28, 2015 03:47
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rohan posted:My internet is too poo poo to bother downloading the original TIFF, but this was a five-second job in PS: Got a similar result just working from the tif. Just adjusted the white points per channel in PS and then did an auto exposure in lightroom. 
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Dec 28, 2015 05:43
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I did this last night but decided I wasn't gonna post it unless everyone else was gonna  EDIT: Definitely overcooked it I feel. iSheep fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Dec 28, 2015 |
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Dec 28, 2015 05:47
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Paul MaudDib posted:I do love the reflex sports finder on the Rolleiflex, it greatly enhances the ease of composing and focusing for me. Yashica-Mats are nice too, but I'm not sure they're worth it versus a Rolleicord. The sports finder is one of the things I miss the most from the Rolleiflex. Allows me to compose a shot at eye level as part of the camera.
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Dec 28, 2015 11:24
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iSheep posted:I did this last night but decided I wasn't gonna post it unless everyone else was gonna It feels over saturated. I cooled it down a bit and desaturated a bit. 
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Dec 28, 2015 18:11
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bobmarleysghost posted:It feels over saturated. I prefer the first one.
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Dec 28, 2015 18:13
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colors in the 1st one feel better but the contrast in the second one feels better
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Dec 28, 2015 20:02
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Mido posted:colors in the 1st one feel better but the contrast in the second one feels better really? it was the contrast in the first one that made me enjoy it more.
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Dec 28, 2015 20:11
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Seems to be a bit too much greens in the shadows for the 2nd one.
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Dec 29, 2015 01:07
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Pukestain Pal posted:I prefer the first one. Same - I don't have a calibrator but it's a factory-calibrated Dell P-series IPS, and the second one looks very green to me (even before I saw alkenphel's post). There also needs to be some contrast/exposure/brightness adjustments going on, because that shirt falls right into Zone I on my monitor. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Dec 29, 2015 |
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Dec 29, 2015 02:46
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alkanphel posted:The sports finder is one of the things I miss the most from the Rolleiflex. Allows me to compose a shot at eye level as part of the camera. Yeah, it's annoying that the direction is reversed but it's super helpful for focusing and composition. The first time I figured out what that thing did I was hooked on the Rolleiflex. I can't imagine what it was like in its heyday with a mirror that wasn't decaying.  my E 3.5 Xenotar.Shellman posted:Anyone with experience with the Fuji gx680? Saw one recently and I think I want one now. Medium format, selectable picture size, and lens movements seems pretty nice, even if it is heavy as poo poo. If you want a MF camera with technical capabilities it's a prime contender. I haven't used it but I do have an overall positive opinion of it. Bear in mind the following cautions. it's heavy and bulky as poo poo. Camera/lens/accessory selection in the US is loving abysmal and you will pay a premium to import it from Glorious Nippon. Fuji's bellows/mechanical linkages haven't really aged well on my cameras at least (my first GS645 was finicky as poo poo and KEH ended up replacing it after trying to service it for 4 months), and I wouldn't trust the electronics too far either. You're pretty hosed for repair service in the US, good luck. You can also get a 2x3/6x9 monorail camera and do a lot of the same things, cheaper (but more manually). For what it is, there's no parallels. Fuji makes great hardware and great lenses. Now that I have a working GS645 it's great in every respect. But there are compromises with the GX680. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Dec 29, 2015 |
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Dec 29, 2015 02:51
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Paul MaudDib posted:If you want a MF camera with technical capabilities it's a prime contender. I haven't used it but I do have an overall positive opinion of it. Oof. Thanks for the rundown. Knew none of this, aside from seeing it and thinking that it looked like another cool toy. I have "enough" medium format camera as is between my C330 and my 67ii, so sounds like I'm better off not chasing that whim. e: Or other lesson learned, move to Glorious Nippon to sperg out about weird cameras as a gaijin.
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Dec 29, 2015 05:29
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Yea I can see my edit is too green, but the original had practically an orange skin tone. If dorkasaurus' skin tones are brought into question, this should be no different.
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Dec 29, 2015 05:29
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bobmarleysghost posted:Yea I can see my edit is too green, but the original had practically an orange skin tone. If dorkasaurus' skin tones are brought into question, this should be no different. 
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Dec 29, 2015 15:09
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won't lie, spent 15 - 20 minutes, but did only use the jpeg and GIMP. everyone, hello.
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Jan 1, 2016 08:27
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wakeecch posted:won't lie, spent 15 - 20 minutes, but did only use the jpeg and GIMP. started from the tiff brought down in size a lot, makes for a much easier time working the colors out. 
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Jan 1, 2016 14:14
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how about a new photo
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Jan 1, 2016 20:01
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I agree Bukit Batok by alkanphel, on Flickr
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Jan 2, 2016 03:35
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Jan 2, 2016 12:39
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Does anyone have any strong opinions or experience with rollfilm backs? I've been thinking of selling off my Hasselblad and moving to 4x5 & 35mm exclusively, but I want an option to continue shooting the 120 I've got in the freezer. Is this a solid plan or a lovely compromise I'll regret? (Specifically thinking about a used Horseman 6x7 back, since 6x9 is twice as expensive and I'm not in love with the ratio.)
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Jan 2, 2016 14:24
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rohan posted:Does anyone have any strong opinions or experience with rollfilm backs? I've been thinking of selling off my Hasselblad and moving to 4x5 & 35mm exclusively, but I want an option to continue shooting the 120 I've got in the freezer. Is this a solid plan or a lovely compromise I'll regret? Horseman backs are (anecdotally, I don't have direct experience) considered good. If you don't want to commit to one format you could get a Sinar Zoom, which lets you mix anything from 645 to 6x12 on one roll.
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Jan 2, 2016 19:10
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What film is this?
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Jan 3, 2016 08:36
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HNasty posted:What film is this? Pretty sure that was Portra 160, which I find the most metamerically responsive of Kodak's color neg films, which means if you're gunning for an 'interesting' look it's going to give it to you, but a loving pain in the rear end if you're hoping for (perceptual) color constancy and nice linear processing. I discovered this when trying to composite two frames which were shot in nearly identical conditions (interior, strobe lit) merely seconds apart, but the color casts on neutrals from the different positions of people in the place, and the attendant difference in the granularity due to different color response, was a suuuuper huge issue. Regarding the picture of the two-headed bird (hard to tell) I've processed it quite heavily for having pleasing colors and contrast. This image here was shot hand-held, Portra 800; gave a roll a try at Versailles last year. Also, no surprise, a huge pain in the rear end to process particularly since I developed nearly all the film from that trip by hand.  edit: always grind the technique. fail son rebate fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Jan 4, 2016 |
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Jan 3, 2016 09:30
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MrBlandAverage posted:Horseman backs are (anecdotally, I don't have direct experience) considered good. If you don't want to commit to one format you could get a Sinar Zoom, which lets you mix anything from 645 to 6x12 on one roll.
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Jan 3, 2016 12:33
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more portra 160 does this look cropped too tightly?
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Jan 5, 2016 10:33
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I'm into it.
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Jan 5, 2016 13:00
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   Hi guys, I'm pretty new here. I set up a vintage photo booth at a flea market, you can check out the pictures above! It uses direct positive photo paper that I shoot and develop on the spot. Also, I have other film photos I have posted on my website. I urge you to check them out. https://andrewyuen.carbonmade.com/projects/5838519 I really like some of the images in this 4x5 thread. Most actually. But the forum format is a bit of a pain. thedoorstopper fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Jan 5, 2016 |
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Jan 5, 2016 17:37
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Consider using the [timg] tags on your images so they show up as thumbnails. Good looking BTZS hood  evilspoon21 posted:
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Jan 5, 2016 18:59
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