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kid sinister posted:The code isn't just about safety either. Remember how I complained about that one box was crammed way too full? If you have that may wires, code dictates using a bigger box. Certain parts of the code are simply to make the job easier. Some people just like doing it the hard way I guess. What's a good book to pick up to show the proper way for me to unfuck this stupid poo poo? I can tell it's not done well but I need some sort of reference how to do it right. kastein probably has an answer to this one
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# ? Dec 30, 2015 07:59 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 18:11 |
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Slanderer posted:I drive by this extremely inconvenient fire hydrant every so often This power pole in the middle of the slip-lane was installed about a year before the intersection was completed. For a log time it only had a witches-hat in front of it. It actually took months of public protest and vandalism ("FIX THIS loving INTERSECTION") before they finished it as shittily as you see here. (Give Way indeed.) ~Coxy fucked around with this message at 09:31 on Dec 30, 2015 |
# ? Dec 30, 2015 09:20 |
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Slanderer posted:I drive by this extremely inconvenient fire hydrant every so often I was gonna say that's the owner's fault for having such an obnoxiously wide driveway, then I realized it was probably widened in order to work around the hydrant.
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# ? Dec 30, 2015 15:34 |
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couldcareless posted:I was gonna say that's the owner's fault for having such an obnoxiously wide driveway, then I realized it was probably widened in order to work around the hydrant. My guess is it's a shared driveway
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# ? Dec 30, 2015 16:24 |
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Those houses were probably built before cars and driveways were a thing so there was just a nice garden between the houses. Later they jammed a garage or surface parking out back and built a shared driveway, but oops there's a hydrant right between the two properties already.
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# ? Dec 30, 2015 16:47 |
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So, I've got this white insulation around the pipe that feeds hot water from my boiler to all the radiators. What are the odds it's asbestos? http://imgur.com/a/iTKLw The house was built in 1912, but the boiler itself is newer (50s or 60s would be my guess). But there was a boiler there before, just coal powered rather than the natural gas now. So it could be original to the house, or it could be the same age as the boiler, or it could have been put in at some other point. Also, any suggestions on where I could send some samples to be tested, and/or what I should do with it?
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# ? Dec 30, 2015 17:38 |
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Pretty high chance.
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# ? Dec 30, 2015 17:55 |
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FISHMANPET posted:Also, any suggestions on where I could send some samples to be tested, and/or what I should do with it? Is it actively shedding or anything? Just leave it in place if you can. It's installation and removal of asbestos that causes problems, but installed stuff is fine.
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# ? Dec 30, 2015 18:12 |
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I moved a book case into the basement (and I have a second) and I had to slip it between the wall and the pipe, and it bumped the pipe a bit: I've got a second bookcase to put there, and then obviously stuff in the book case. There's also some other storage stuff around that wall. "don't touch" is probably a pretty workable solution overall though, for this situation.
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# ? Dec 30, 2015 18:19 |
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FISHMANPET posted:So, I've got this white insulation around the pipe that feeds hot water from my boiler to all the radiators. What are the odds it's asbestos? Very high chance of that containing asbestos. Leave it alone unless it's actively falling apart or you are doing work on that pipe. If it is falling apart there are encapsulation products to prevent it from shedding further and if you want to remove it and reinsulate there are safe ways to do that as well.
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# ? Dec 30, 2015 18:22 |
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I had a very similar bit of asbestos wrap removed when I got a new furnace installed about 5 years ago. It had existed unmolested for 60+ years, but was about $1200 to get it removed. Best advice is to leave it alone and not bang poo poo into it.
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# ? Dec 30, 2015 18:24 |
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sirr0bin posted:if you want to remove it and reinsulate there are safe ways to do that as well.
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# ? Dec 30, 2015 18:53 |
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BraveUlysses posted:What's a good book to pick up to show the proper way for me to unfuck this stupid poo poo? I can tell it's not done well but I need some sort of reference how to do it right. kastein probably has an answer to this one Well, the latest NEC codebook is available on the NFPA's website for free. You do have to register an account though, and you can't print it. The problem is that it reads like a law book, constantly referring back on other sections.
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# ? Dec 30, 2015 23:32 |
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kid sinister posted:Well, the latest NEC codebook is available on the NFPA's website for free.
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# ? Dec 31, 2015 00:56 |
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Baronjutter posted:Those houses were probably built before cars and driveways were a thing so there was just a nice garden between the houses. Later they jammed a garage or surface parking out back and built a shared driveway, but oops there's a hydrant right between the two properties already. The local council should have made it so whoever is putting in the driveway has to pay to shift the hydrant. The fact that they clearly didn't indicates that someone at the council hosed up and approved it without making them shift the hydrant, or the developers did it without council approval. If the hydrant was a buried hydrant this wouldn't even be a problem for anyone. I wonder how many times that hydrant gets damaged by cars backing into it?
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# ? Dec 31, 2015 02:38 |
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Lobsterpillar posted:The local council should have made it so whoever is putting in the driveway has to pay to shift the hydrant. The fact that they clearly didn't indicates that someone at the council hosed up and approved it without making them shift the hydrant, or the developers did it without council approval. Local council? lmao this is Pittsburgh, and who loving knows how old those houses are. This whole dumb city is a mess.
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# ? Dec 31, 2015 03:37 |
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Hey it's a die wash
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# ? Dec 31, 2015 05:13 |
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I think I'd rather take my chances with chemicals in my eye.
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# ? Dec 31, 2015 05:18 |
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canyoneer posted:
Who doesn't want a shocking surprise when you can't see?
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# ? Dec 31, 2015 05:38 |
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canyoneer posted:
I liked that the Reddit post for that claimed it was newly installed when it looks like it was fished out of a dumpster.
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# ? Dec 31, 2015 06:33 |
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`Nemesis posted:I liked that the Reddit post for that claimed it was newly installed when it looks like it was fished out of a dumpster. To be fair, both things
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# ? Dec 31, 2015 06:55 |
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Fire... "escape?"
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# ? Dec 31, 2015 15:47 |
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Airconswitch posted:Fire... "escape?" I guess technically if that connects two rooms, going out one window and into another then out that room's door could be egress #2. May have been code at some point?
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# ? Dec 31, 2015 16:28 |
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It looks like there is a firewall between the left side and right side, probably two separate buildings.
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# ? Dec 31, 2015 16:54 |
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It's conjoined apartments without breaking the walls between.
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# ? Dec 31, 2015 19:05 |
The tornadoes in Dallas TX recently have uncovered a scary bit of crappy construction in an elementary school.quote:Marshall said he toured the damaged school with school officials this week, and he was shocked by the lack of proper attachments linking the walls to the rest of the structure.
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# ? Dec 31, 2015 20:18 |
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So the whole wall was just a big chunk of structure barely held in place with a few nails????
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# ? Dec 31, 2015 22:52 |
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BraveUlysses posted:What's a good book to pick up to show the proper way for me to unfuck this stupid poo poo? I can tell it's not done well but I need some sort of reference how to do it right. kastein probably has an answer to this one The Black and Decker Complete Guide to Wiring is hands down the best book for a homeowner who wants to touch any electrical stuff. Tons of great pictures and easy diagrams, and covers everything under your roof. The latest edition is like 20$ on Amazon, but it's probably not too different than the five dollar one on thriftbooks. They've also got an advanced wiring guide, as well as a codes for homeowners book that's pretty good. Honestly, their diy guide book series is probably about the only good thing Black and Decker makes these days.
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# ? Dec 31, 2015 23:27 |
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Oooohhhh my god. Whoever built that is now on EVERYONE'S poo poo list. I hope they are prosecuted with the rage of a million PTA members.
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# ? Dec 31, 2015 23:39 |
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OSU_Matthew posted:The Black and Decker Complete Guide to Wiring is hands down the best book for a homeowner who wants to touch any electrical stuff. Tons of great pictures and easy diagrams, and covers everything under your roof. The latest edition is like 20$ on Amazon, but it's probably not too different than the five dollar one on thriftbooks. Not sure of the status of this, but it's available as a .pdf. http://www.ebooksbucket.com/uploads/engineering/electrical/The_Complete_Guide_to_Wiring.pdf
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# ? Jan 1, 2016 00:33 |
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OSU_Matthew posted:The Black and Decker Complete Guide to Wiring is hands down the best book for a homeowner who wants to touch any electrical stuff. Tons of great pictures and easy diagrams, and covers everything under your roof. The latest edition is like 20$ on Amazon, but it's probably not too different than the five dollar one on thriftbooks. Can confirm. I used that book to add another 20A circuit for all my AV/media server stuff in the family when I bought my house. I actually buy copies of the Black and Decker DIY books as housewarming gifts for friends who become first time home-owners.
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# ? Jan 1, 2016 00:36 |
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OSU_Matthew posted:The Black and Decker Complete Guide to Wiring is hands down the best book for a homeowner who wants to touch any electrical stuff. Tons of great pictures and easy diagrams, and covers everything under your roof. The latest edition is like 20$ on Amazon, but it's probably not too different than the five dollar one on thriftbooks. That edition is for the 2008 NEC book. They update that codebook every 3 years with the latest being the 2014 book. The biggest differences since then for residential work mostly have to do with AFCI and GFCI requirements.
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# ? Jan 1, 2016 00:42 |
Baronjutter posted:So the whole wall was just a big chunk of structure barely held in place with a few nails???? From the picture it looks like there may have been a bit of structural Romex involved as well, but for the most part yes it looks like gravity and a few dozen nails 1/3" into the concrete was all that was keeping it standing.
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# ? Jan 1, 2016 02:28 |
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Shifty Pony posted:The tornadoes in Dallas TX recently have uncovered a scary bit of crappy construction in an elementary school. With the quality of many buildings I've seen in DFW, I can't say I'm too surprised. I mean, I see houses (not cheap houses either) that are only a year or two old that already have visible cracks in the outside walls more often than I should. Shifty Pony posted:From the picture it looks like there may have been a bit of structural Romex involved as well, but for the most part yes it looks like gravity and a few dozen nails 1/3" into the concrete was all that was keeping it standing. And I'm pretty sure romex isn't allowed in commercial buildings here either.
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# ? Jan 1, 2016 10:00 |
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kid sinister posted:That edition is for the 2008 NEC book. They update that codebook every 3 years with the latest being the 2014 book. The biggest differences since then for residential work mostly have to do with AFCI and GFCI requirements. They update it every 3 years but adoption of the actual code itself can take longer. At least in Alberta I know they don't get around to adopting the CEC until about a year to a year and a half after the latest revision.
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# ? Jan 1, 2016 11:08 |
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FISHMANPET posted:So, I've got this white insulation around the pipe that feeds hot water from my boiler to all the radiators. What are the odds it's asbestos? Even if it is though, it's clearly damaged in sections, and just remember that there is no safe exposure level to asbestos once it's friable and airborne. Something like pipe wrap, I'd get a professional to look at it.
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# ? Jan 1, 2016 15:00 |
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Shifty Pony posted:The tornadoes in Dallas TX recently have uncovered a scary bit of crappy construction in an elementary school. I call bullshit. Those nails are Hili powder actuated fasteners or equivalent. While the top of the wall shouldn't have blown out like that, there is nothing against the code (IBC 2012) with those fasteners. They are there to keep the sill plate in place, not resist the forces of the entire wall, especially in a lever action. That being said, there is still a ton of poo poo wrong in the picture.
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# ? Jan 1, 2016 17:03 |
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morethanjake32 posted:I call bullshit. Those nails are Hili powder actuated fasteners or equivalent. While the top of the wall shouldn't have blown out like that, there is nothing against the code (IBC 2012) with those fasteners. They are there to keep the sill plate in place, not resist the forces of the entire wall, especially in a lever action. That being said, there is still a ton of poo poo wrong in the picture. NVM. Read your stuff wrong and was wrong about other stuff. Proteus Jones fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Jan 1, 2016 |
# ? Jan 1, 2016 17:14 |
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This is what wiring is supposed to look like, right? There were wirenuts, they fell off when I touched them. Not pictured: The coil of abandoned live wire with some electrical tape on the end.
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# ? Jan 3, 2016 21:47 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 18:11 |
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devicenull posted:
I don't know what you're complaining about, at least they put a small modicum of effort into taping the live end The boxes should be covered and secured to the joists, at the very least. Looks like the wiring is also rubbing going into the box, which could wear through the sheathing, so careful touching the boxes... I'd definitely have a voltage sniffer handy. I also see you have some of the fine vintage rubber coated braided wire that's liberally hidden away between the receptacles in my house too, and the same doorbell voltage transformer that's in my basement Careful, that stuff falls apart of you look at it wrong. The slightest twist and the rubber insulation is toast. Is your house pre WWII too?
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# ? Jan 3, 2016 22:24 |