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Cobalt60 posted:Does anyone have any experience with or opinions on EONON radio heads? I've got one in my E39. Solid and works. I'd like an Android OS instead of WinCE, but it is absolutely an upgrade in all ways from the stock unit.
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Jan 1, 2016 01:51
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EVERYWHERE 
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Cobalt60 posted:Does anyone have any experience with or opinions on EONON radio heads? i've always wondered about these and i'm sure i've asked before, but can you still access the fuel econ/range stuff that you can on the factory unit, because mine is dead accurate and i don't know if i want to give that up for a little better sound.
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Jan 1, 2016 01:58
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Cobalt60 posted:Does anyone have any experience with or opinions on EONON radio heads? I bought one for my E39 and it's been doing good for a little more then a year now. The fuel econ and range stuff works fine (it's in the gauge cluster so it's not really affected?).
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Jan 1, 2016 02:52
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Killstick posted:I bought one for my E39 and it's been doing good for a little more then a year now. The fuel econ and range stuff works fine (it's in the gauge cluster so it's not really affected?). you say that like everybody's gauge cluster is still readable 
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Jan 1, 2016 02:58
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One of the few parts of my car that hasn't fallen off yet : )
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Jan 1, 2016 03:00
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Powershift posted:you say that like everybody's gauge cluster is still readable In nearly every car I've driven I can't read my guages above ~25mph or below ~85mph plus the equivalent on the tachometer. This includes like indicator indicators, high beam indicators, etc. The fun times of being tall. If the idiot light doesn't have an accompanying ding or center info box warning it must not matter. Cojawfee posted:I don't think the radio is covered under CPO. The radio in my e82 gets sluggish in cold weather and doesn't display all the pixels in hot weather. It goes back to normal in mild weather. That's just what LCDs do in inclement weather. My E89 does this as well.
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Jan 1, 2016 17:30
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I lose about the 55-70mph range on my speedo in the e28 unless I slouch, I feel your pain.
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Jan 1, 2016 20:07
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Battery tender arrives soon. Where do I hook it up? I would prefer to do it under the hood so I can more easily snake the cable out. The red jump terminal + Ground? (Just off camera to the lower-right is where a bunch of other stuff is apparently grounded.) The other option is the trunk:  This is my first foray into car maintenance in over a decade. Did both my air filters, and found 2 things I didn't know the car had: A second 12v outlet and a passenger knee airbag. I knew it had a driver one. This is looking up at the bottom panel for the cabin air filter in the passenger footwell. Behind there also appears to be some kind of main electrical thing where a Big Fat Red Wire comes in from the back and breaks into a few smaller cables. There is also a fuse map clipped into the rear of the plastic panel.  What's the filter looking material left behind and should I have been replacing it or...?  I even think I got it back together correctly. The video on the internet had you taking the whole thing out as one piece and then unclipping the airbox apart on a bench. Reinstalling it I sort of see why.   rscott posted:I lose about the 55-70mph range on my speedo in the e28 unless I slouch, I feel your pain. I figure mine has 3 settings: School Zone, Driving Zone, and Ticket Zone.
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Jan 3, 2016 23:45
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H110Hawk posted:Battery tender arrives soon. Where do I hook it up? I would prefer to do it under the hood so I can more easily snake the cable out. The red jump terminal + Ground? (Just off camera to the lower-right is where a bunch of other stuff is apparently grounded.) I hooked my battery tender directly to the terminals in the trunk. The one I had used a quick disconnect with a short pigtail that attached to the terminals. Open trunk, plug in, close trunk.
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Jan 4, 2016 01:20
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Brock Landers posted:I hooked my battery tender directly to the terminals in the trunk. The one I had used a quick disconnect with a short pigtail that attached to the terminals. Open trunk, plug in, close trunk. This is what I did on all mine, works good and less chance of a bad connection than the clips.
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Jan 4, 2016 15:46
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BraveUlysses posted:Ahhh freshly rebuilt brakes I managed to not get a single one of these things done on my break.
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Jan 4, 2016 16:54
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meatpimp posted:I've got one in my E39. Solid and works. I'd like an Android OS instead of WinCE, but it is absolutely an upgrade in all ways from the stock unit. This is something I always keep one eye out for. Do you have this model? http://www.eonon.com/Car-GPS/Specific-Car-GPS/BMW/D5166Z.html It says it doesn't work with DSP though, which I have. It doesn't mention any way around that. Also I rather like the vehicle info screen currently on mine which tells me mpg, range, avg speed etc. Does it have that too? e:Did more research on DSP, I see the problem. Ugh. Still curious about the info screen though. Deceptor101 fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Jan 4, 2016 |
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Jan 4, 2016 19:39
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I'm looking to help a friend with his E46 do some coding. I'd rather not deal with modding a VAG cable again. Is there anyone who makes a INPA ready USB cable for a reasonable price these days?
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Jan 4, 2016 20:32
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Deceptor101 posted:This is something I always keep one eye out for. Do you have this model? I think I have the D5166. No DSP. No implementation of the info in the radio (although there is a plug on the radio for the info screen... I think it's probably possible with the unit, but not for the current implementation. Workaround is to extend the ~10 wires and have the controls for the DIC in the glove box. Right now my DIC control unit is unplugged, but I still have access to overall mpg and range, which is what I use most, anyway.
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Jan 4, 2016 23:36
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BlackMK4 posted:The only annoying part about running full delrin and poly in mine was the bad rear diff being loud as gently caress. Yeah I found with my E30 and my E46s that diff mounts (and I imagine motor and tranny) mounts made a difference to NVH but polybushing the suspension had absolutely no negative consequences at all. The E30 was loud as hell anyway but the diff mount was really noticeable even so.
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Jan 5, 2016 16:58
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Saga posted:Yeah I found with my E30 and my E46s that diff mounts (and I imagine motor and tranny) mounts made a difference to NVH but polybushing the suspension had absolutely no negative consequences at all. The E30 was loud as hell anyway but the diff mount was really noticeable even so. I moved my diff bushing back to rubber because it was too loud even with the soft poly. It didn't help that the diff was going bad as well.
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Jan 5, 2016 18:18
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Sadi posted:I'm looking to help a friend with his E46 do some coding. I'd rather not deal with modding a VAG cable again. Is there anyone who makes a INPA ready USB cable for a reasonable price these days? http://bmwesys.com
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Jan 5, 2016 19:55
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The cable that domain forwards to is for newer cars with an ethernet network, it won't work on an E46.
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Jan 5, 2016 21:20
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Sadi posted:I'm looking to help a friend with his E46 do some coding. I'd rather not deal with modding a VAG cable again. Is there anyone who makes a INPA ready USB cable for a reasonable price these days? http://www.mycarly.com/product/bmw-app/ I used it to turn on DRL's, 3 flash indicators and beeping alarm. Also used it to delete my reoccuring ESP fault 10/10.
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Jan 5, 2016 22:52
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warcake posted:http://www.mycarly.com/product/bmw-app/ I was going to suggest this as they recently made a new adapter that supports more cars but I think he wants an actual cable to use with coding software not just the mycarly app.
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Jan 6, 2016 01:28
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warcake posted:http://www.mycarly.com/product/bmw-app/ Does this read all of the body codes? I wanted to read my dsc error codes, Carly support told me to use the trial version and find out, implying I should buy their connector with out knowing if it works. I grabbed a 20$ cable off amazon (soldered two pins together for e46) and use an old barely running laptop with inpa. Not slick, but works fine.
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Jan 6, 2016 01:29
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I've gotten a couple quotes for Inspection II and Valve Adjustment from independent shops and they are pretty much identical in cost to the dealership. I guess I'm missing their incentive for me to bring the car to them if the cost is the same. The main thing putting me off the dealership (at least the closest one to me) is that they act like a car from 2007 is from the loving stone age all like "whoa, we haven't seen an S54 engine in a while! Give us a minute to look up the info to make a quote on THAT!" It's like if you're not driving in a leased car due for its 15,000 mile oil change, they don't wanna gently caress with you.
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Jan 6, 2016 18:40
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Found some tearing around the bolt holes when I went to replace my RTABs on the E36. Gonna try to drop the subframe this weekend and see how that looks, then find someone who will come weld in reinforcements in my garage. I have a track day in a few weeks, so I need to stop dragging my feet.
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Jan 6, 2016 20:39
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Brock Landers posted:I hooked my battery tender directly to the terminals in the trunk. The one I had used a quick disconnect with a short pigtail that attached to the terminals. Open trunk, plug in, close trunk. Silly question: No worry about gas? I know it's an AGM which "shouldn't off gas." Do you just hook both directly to the battery? Or is there some better place for the ground clamp? Is the trunk completely closed? It doesn't pinch the wires?
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Jan 6, 2016 22:26
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SpaceRangerJoe posted:Found some tearing around the bolt holes when I went to replace my RTABs on the E36. Gonna try to drop the subframe this weekend and see how that looks, then find someone who will come weld in reinforcements in my garage. I have a track day in a few weeks, so I need to stop dragging my feet. M or non-M? M3s already have the plates and it is very unlikely it would ever tear.
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Jan 6, 2016 23:26
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H110Hawk posted:Silly question: No worry about gas? I know it's an AGM which "shouldn't off gas." Do you just hook both directly to the battery? Or is there some better place for the ground clamp? The trunk rubber seal strip is enough that it doesn't get pinched. Never heard of issues with off gassing with a AGM so you should be fine. I've always tossed the leads directly on the battery but I occasionally move batteries between cars or need to haul one as a spare.
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Jan 7, 2016 01:10
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NitroSpazzz posted:The trunk rubber seal strip is enough that it doesn't get pinched. Never heard of issues with off gassing with a AGM so you should be fine. I've always tossed the leads directly on the battery but I occasionally move batteries between cars or need to haul one as a spare. Thanks, my battery is now tended.
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Jan 7, 2016 01:48
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:I've gotten a couple quotes for Inspection II and Valve Adjustment from independent shops and they are pretty much identical in cost to the dealership. I guess I'm missing their incentive for me to bring the car to them if the cost is the same. I would guess most dealerships quit seeing S54s right around 2011 or so, so I can see them needing to look up a quote. Considered DIYing the valve adjustment? It's not difficult, you just need to go slowly and methodically. In fact I have an S54 valve shim tool and an assortment of shims that I'll give away to a good home now that I no longer have an S54 to adjust.
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Jan 7, 2016 06:10
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Crustashio posted:M or non-M? M3s already have the plates and it is very unlikely it would ever tear. M3, but fairly early '95 production. I talked to my local BMW guy yesterday, and he said it should be obvious if the sub frame reinforcement is there without dropping anything. I need to dig out some better lights and shove my head up there and look before I do anything too drastic I guess.
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Jan 7, 2016 16:24
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NitroSpazzz posted:I've always tossed the leads directly on the battery This is what I do since I regularly go weeks without starting it. It's an AGM is as well, and nothing bad has happened yet. I just leave the trunk open though.
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Jan 7, 2016 16:26
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SpaceRangerJoe posted:This is what I do since I regularly go weeks without starting it. It's an AGM is as well, and nothing bad has happened yet. I just leave the trunk open though. I don't even leave the trunk open 
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Jan 7, 2016 17:07
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What's the longevity like on an X5? I've been looking to get one used but with the kind of budget I have it looks like I'll be getting one with 120,000km+ on the clock.
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Jan 9, 2016 16:31
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My brother-in-law has the M version and it has almost 70k miles on it. No problems that I've heard of so far. It's a 2012, btw.
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Jan 9, 2016 16:34
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Same bullshit issues every other BMW has. The first gen models are heavily based on the E39, I'm not to familiar with the 2nd and 3rd gen models, but assume it's the same as the corresponding generations. The first gen models got a really lovely auto tranny with the 6 bangers, so keep that in mind. It's not a if but when will it die
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Jan 9, 2016 18:10
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Dyscrasia posted:Does this read all of the body codes? I wanted to read my dsc error codes, Carly support told me to use the trial version and find out, implying I should buy their connector with out knowing if it works. I grabbed a 20$ cable off amazon (soldered two pins together for e46) and use an old barely running laptop with inpa. Not slick, but works fine. Sorry for late reply, but yeah it does read all the body codes. The cable was cheap enough shipped to me, but im in the UK. They have a pretty comprehensive list on their website with what can and can't be done on each model. One downside is the in app purchases to do stuff like DPF regen and resetting service lights (wtf?)
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Jan 9, 2016 19:10
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For some stupid reason I have an urge to get an E34 (love the look of the front, not too old), so I'm stupidly looking for one. So far I've learned that the straight 6's are the one to get, as they are more reliable. Also as late of a model as possible, and service history (fan belt?) and so on. Found one nearby with very low mileage for it's age, oil and filer change every 10 000km... but it's not with leather interior, only electric windows at the front which kinda tells me it's a low trim level one. Also it's a 520i (too low power?) Is there any way of knowing what trim / extras came with what model, or is it pretty random?
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Jan 9, 2016 20:13
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MrOnBicycle posted:Is there any way of knowing what trim / extras came with what model, or is it pretty random? Find a BMW VIN decoder (there's lots of them if you Google) and plug in the last seven digits/characters of the VIN.
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Jan 9, 2016 20:20
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MrOnBicycle posted:For some stupid reason I have an urge to get an E34 (love the look of the front, not too old), so I'm stupidly looking for one. So far I've learned that the straight 6's are the one to get, as they are more reliable. Also as late of a model as possible, and service history (fan belt?) and so on. E34 you're going to want to look for ideally a 530 or 535 which will have the M30 inline six engine. M30 is a tank of an engine, timing chain so one less thing to worry about versus a belt. The 525 is also decent with the M20 inline six. Anything with the M20 you're going to want receipts showing when the timing belt was done otherwise plan on doing it ASAP because when it snaps you get to buy a new engine. Other than that it's a great engine. 520 would be a pretty much base model with a smaller M20 or M50 engine depending on year. More info here including engine info, power specs, etc - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_5_Series_%28E34%29
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Jan 9, 2016 22:26
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NitroSpazzz posted:E34 you're going to want to look for ideally a 530 or 535 which will have the M30 inline six engine. M30 is a tank of an engine, timing chain so one less thing to worry about versus a belt. I finally found a 1995 sales brochure which really helped understanding what comes as standard with each model. Though I think the brochure is US based, so it might differ from euro spec. 520i is just too boring, 525i is better, but still a bit boring. There is only one 535i (turbo rebuild) and 4 540is (all autos) on the Craigslist equivalent here. So yeah, I guess the wait is on. I think the lower end models were way more popular here, since we didn't have the same "big engine culture" as the US. Pretty surprised at the level of tech in these cars.
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Jan 9, 2016 23:01
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The 525i with the M50tub engine is the most reliable one IMO. It's not super fast by any measure but very enjoyable to drive with the 5 speed. With the automatic you're going to want more power. Problem spots are GDCS, blower resistor pack, thrust arms, and door rust.
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Jan 10, 2016 00:26
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