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Opioid posted:Tips on buying. Been reading up on air dried stuff now since I've never bought rough lumber before. Hopefully there aren't sticker stains on the lumber, especially lighter wood, because it permeates. Comes from using the wrong type material as stickers. A year per inch is the common rule. Humidity and temperature factors are very big. If the guy already has some sticks cut and planed, you can get a better idea. Relative humidity of the lumber is crucial, so if you don't have a meter that you trust....
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Dec 29, 2015 18:14
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:I'm strongly debating a trip to Harbour Freight now. There is one just across the Niagara border which is a little over an hour drive. Those ones I linked seem to get decent reviews, however it seems the larger ones bend under high pressure. I have a lot of the bessey/jorgensen version of those F clamps and they're fine in the 24" and under sizes. I have some longer ones and I don't like them as much. For longer clamps I prefer the aluminum bar clamps and then do the upgrades that Paul Sellers does. I've never been very fond of pipe clamps and the harbor freight knock-offs have been kind of lovely in my experience.
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Dec 29, 2015 18:51
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If you go to harbor freight for clamps it has been my experience that these style clamps http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-ratcheting-bar-clampspreader-68975.html aren't great. They tend to wear out after not to long and never give much clamping force to begin with. I like their Aluminum extruded bar clamps that Cpt.Wacky linked though. Their C clamps and whatnot are fine too, just check the screw action on them before you buy it in the store as sometimes their castings are overly rough. Also make sure you have your 20% off coupon and free whatever with every purchase. All in all, they work well enough but are more annoying to use than something like bessey because of the rougher quality of their finishing. At 1/5th the price though, it is a great way to begin stocking your shop. quick edit: I bought 4 of the specific ones you linked, BUGS OF SPRING, and 3 of them have been troopers (only like 3 months old) but one broke the day after I bought it. The junk collector fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Dec 29, 2015 |
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Dec 29, 2015 19:01
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I inherited a plane, pretty rusty, but seems to be all on the surface. All of the moving bits seem move fairly smoothly.   I've come across a number of different restoration methods, I'm curious as to thread favorites. For rust removal - chemical? Steel wool? Wd40 and Scotch Brite pad? I think a friend has a grinder with a wire brush wheel. Returning the bottom of the shoe to true. Sand paper if several grits on a flat surface seems to be the thing Sharpening/nick removal is covered enough here. Edit: My pics aren't working 
Dukket fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Dec 30, 2015 |
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Dec 29, 2015 20:08
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Dukket posted:I inherited a plane, pretty rusty, but seems to be all on the surface. All of the moving bits seem move fairly smoothly. I can't help you with any of that, but I did fix your pictures. Gotta add the .jpg if you want to link them.
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Dec 29, 2015 20:18
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Thanks, I don't post a lot of pictures and this was my first time posting pix from my phone. I'll fix them when I have a chance.
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Dec 29, 2015 20:38
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What a magical place that was. Guy was a retired farmer and had been doing this for the last 25 years. Just collects trees from the surrounding farmland other farmers dont want and mills them. Had an entire barn full of walnut/ash/soft + hard maple and hickory. I got a 6' x 12" 4/4 of walnut and a 8' x 8" 4/4 of hard maple and ash. He had some large live edge walnut slabs 2" thick from 1.5-2' wide and ~6-8' long. Was selling for just $5 per sq ft. I can't even work with something that size yet but i feel like grabbing 1 or 2 and storing them until I can. maple/ash/walnut  checking whats under the top of that walnut 
Opioid fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Dec 29, 2015 |
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Dec 29, 2015 21:19
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Opioid posted:Any tips? Check uniformity of thickness, check all 4 corners. I bought cedar last summer and didn't inspect closely and some pieces had as much as 3/4" variation in opposite corners. Not a deal breaker but it means a LOT more work planing it down.
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Dec 29, 2015 21:31
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That folding wood knife project that John Heisz put up a few days ago is pretty fun  Black locust for the blade and spine, and something like purpleheart for the scales. Not quite sure what the hell it is, but it's hard as hell and ridiculously heavy.
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Dec 29, 2015 22:16
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For their holiday promotion, HD has had this six pack of Bessey F-style clamps on sale for $15. I've probably walked passed these things 10 times by now and every time said to myself "that seems like a hell of a deal". Maybe i'm just paranoid, but something about a Bessey clamp being cheaper than it's Harbor Freight equivalent is making me a bit skittish to pull the trigger. Anyone pick these up? Any reason not to? http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-Clutch-Clamp-Set-6-Piece-GSCC6PK/205804273 
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Dec 30, 2015 00:18
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Sointenly posted:For their holiday promotion, HD has had this six pack of Bessey F-style clamps on sale for $15. I've probably walked passed these things 10 times by now and every time said to myself "that seems like a hell of a deal". Maybe i'm just paranoid, but something about a Bessey clamp being cheaper than it's Harbor Freight equivalent is making me a bit skittish to pull the trigger. Anyone pick these up? Any reason not to? All of mine are Bessey or Jorgensen and work just fine. I'd trust them more than a generic Harbor Freight version. That is a good deal, I'd get 3 or 4 packs if I didn't have any 6-inch clamps.
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Dec 30, 2015 01:00
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Dukket posted:For rust removal - chemical? Steel wool? Wd40 and Scotch Brite pad? I think a friend has a grinder with a wire brush wheel. Do you have a car battery charger handy?
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Dec 30, 2015 02:39
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RadioPassive posted:Do you have a car battery charger handy? electrolysis?
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Dec 30, 2015 03:13
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Dukket posted:electrolysis? Another option is to dunk it in vinegar for a while.
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Dec 30, 2015 03:16
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Electrolysis works great for small parts since you don't need a huge rear end vat to submerge the workpiece. I did a motorcycle gas tank and a cast iron barbecue grill last summer and it worked great, but getting a big rubbermaid tub full of electrolyte and setting everything up was a bit of work. Handtools should be easy.
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Dec 30, 2015 04:46
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So I want to build some simple shelves with doors on them so poo poo doesn't get dusty and sticky tiny hands don't touch my precious things. I have limited wood working experience and want something I can just screw together basically. My general idea is to just make a box with shelves in it out of nice 3/4 ply then stick more of the same covering the whole front on european hinges. I've never made anything with moving parts though, never installed a hinge. This is my general design.  I want to make a couple of these and from the front just have a smooth wall of wood panels. Will this work? How much of a gap do I need between the panels for the doors to safely open and close? Do I need a gap at all or can they basically be touching?
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Dec 30, 2015 05:10
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Baronjutter posted:So I want to build some simple shelves with doors on them so poo poo doesn't get dusty and sticky tiny hands don't touch my precious things. I have limited wood working experience and want something I can just screw together basically. My general idea is to just make a box with shelves in it out of nice 3/4 ply then stick more of the same covering the whole front on european hinges. I've never made anything with moving parts though, never installed a hinge. Some of the Euro hinges have literally 0 clearance, but tbf, you'd want some gap; 1/8" minimum imo. You'll also need a drill press and a 35mm bit, plus some experimenting to set up the fence properly. N.B. Before I'd invested in a drill press, I was actually able to use my Makita plunge router for this, as it had a 3/8" collet reducer- unheard of anymore, and I was able to grind the metric shaft of the 35mm bit (the shaft is very close to 3/8") down a hair, so it fit. And a rheostat, since the router isn't variable speed.
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Dec 30, 2015 19:49
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I ended up just holding a piece of wood next to my actual kitchen cabinets. If the piece of wood was right up touching the door it couldn't open, but if it was just 1mm away the door could open fine. Cool hinges! So yeah something like 1/8" would work fine.
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Dec 30, 2015 20:03
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:I got some xmas money and decided it was time to get some more clamps. I've mostly been using those irwin quick release clamps, and they just aren't great. They have their role but just suck for complicated or heavy glue ups. I'm in Toronto and feel the same pain. If anyone ia up for some kind of group buy/shipping deal, I'm all for it. For comparisions sake, here is the price on Bessey stuff here right now https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.clutch-clamp-set-4-piece.1000833691.html :/ I'm looking at picking up my first plane. Finding a decent deal on a vintage plane here seems near impossible. I've been watching CL and Kijiji for months now, but nothing comes up. I'm starting to get tempted by this : http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00002X1Z6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB The comments and plastic parts are a real turn off. But for $35CAD, it can't be that bad right? midge fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Dec 30, 2015 |
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Dec 30, 2015 20:46
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midge posted:I'm in Toronto and feel the same pain. If anyone ia up for some kind of group buy/shipping deal, I'm all for it. I contacted Harbour Freight about their Canadian shipping. For an order that came to $62.85 USD they wanted $52.97 USD in shipping. The sad thing is that's still almost cheaper than buying that many locally.  Admittedly it IS a heavy order being 15 clamps. But it's still too cost prohibitive for my tastes. I might have to make the road trip sometime in Jan.
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Dec 30, 2015 21:28
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So wood expands and contracts with the seasons. Is this due to the humidity in the air? If I completely coated every surface in epoxy and stopped and humidity contacting the wood, would that stop the changes, or would it still move and eventually crack the epoxy?
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Dec 30, 2015 23:51
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midge posted:I'm in Toronto and feel the same pain. If anyone ia up for some kind of group buy/shipping deal, I'm all for it. For comparisions sake, here is the price on Bessey stuff here right now https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.clutch-clamp-set-4-piece.1000833691.html :/ I guess you don't have KMS Tools out east but maybe Busy Bee Tools or something would have reasonably priced clamps? https://www.kmstools.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=23000000_23020000_23020100&sort=20a&filter_id=&product_listing_sorter_id=5 Also the casting on the lever cap of that Stanley looks godawful. Definitely consider looking around on kijiji or craigslist locally for an older plane in decent shape. People often sell them for $20-40 in Vancouver. Unrelated but a friend gave me a mastercraft block plane and I couldn't believe how bad it was. No way to adjust the blade side to side, huuuge wide open mouth and just generally horrible. So I guess you could technically do worse than a modern Stanley :p edit: Princess Auto is the closest we have to Harbor Freight in Canada, they have some fairly cheap clamps too http://www.princessauto.com/en/b/workshop/tools-safety/hand-tools/clamping-gripping/bar-f-clamp/N-1l4cmks?Nrpp=15 Squibbles fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Dec 31, 2015 |
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Dec 31, 2015 00:18
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The most painful injury I've received in my shop (so far) is from my router. No, not the spinning bit, but the two flat worthless wrenches used to change the bits. It looks like a quick change chuck costs about $60, which is almost half of what the Porter Cable 691 Router cost me in the first place. Seems steep, but after taking out a chunk of my thumb, I'm thinking it's worth it. Any reviews or feedback?
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Dec 31, 2015 15:52
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I know the prevailing opinions on buying planes but I have neither the money to buy good new nor the time to wait for, buy and restore good old, I'll let you all know just how bad a £25 #4 from Faithful and a £13 #7 (Amazon warehouse deal, returned due to damaged box) from Silverline can be.
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Dec 31, 2015 16:02
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Cakefool posted:I know the prevailing opinions on buying planes but I have neither the money to buy good new nor the time to wait for, buy and restore good old, I'll let you all know just how bad a £25 #4 from Faithful and a £13 #7 (Amazon warehouse deal, returned due to damaged box) from Silverline can be. I have a #4 bailey pattern clone by Sencys. Which was about 20 euro when I bought it. About a year of use later the lever that adjusts the blade from left to right has become sloppy on the tiny brass rivet that holds it. So now that lever needs to be held down when adjusting the blade. Which isn't the end of the world but it is a pain in the neck. Same with the depth set screw. It's a sloppy fit. Still works fine, but I do need to remember to turn it back a quarter turn after adjusting, so it will stop the blade from rising during a cut. The sole however is perfectly flat and square at the edges. No complaints at all about the quality of the sole cast.
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Dec 31, 2015 16:55
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Pagan posted:The most painful injury I've received in my shop (so far) is from my router. No, not the spinning bit, but the two flat worthless wrenches used to change the bits. I had to look that router up, it's the D-handle, which I've got the grand-daddy of when it was still Rockwell- and yeah, I always hated those loving wrenches, lol, can't believe that's still what they used. And I pinched a finger a few times, that collett is garbage, have to super tighten it. I'll tell you what bothers me about this concept- keep in mind, I've never used one. It extends the center of gravity further out for a chunk of steel that's rotating 12,000 - 15,000 rpm. Plus it adds however much weight/torque. It would be great if it was built in, imo. Price would be the last consideration for me, if that sumbitch bit me, it's worth it.
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Dec 31, 2015 17:11
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Cakefool posted:I know the prevailing opinions on buying planes but I have neither the money to buy good new nor the time to wait for, buy and restore good old, I'll let you all know just how bad a £25 #4 from Faithful and a £13 #7 (Amazon warehouse deal, returned due to damaged box) from Silverline can be. They'll work but like Deedle says, the experience is not going to be as pleasant. They may take more work to flatten the sole, the casting is going to be rougher and the adjustments won't work as well. But you can certainly do good work with them. I started out with some very cheap Groz planes from Rockler and once they were flattened, tuned and sharpened they worked fine. It's pretty unlikely I guess, but if anyone is ever out on the Olympic Peninsula in Western Washington I've got more planes than I need from estate sales and I'd be happy to part with a few of them to goony aspiring woodworkers.
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Dec 31, 2015 17:21
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Frogmanv2 posted:So wood expands and contracts with the seasons. Is this due to the humidity in the air? If I completely coated every surface in epoxy and stopped and humidity contacting the wood, would that stop the changes, or would it still move and eventually crack the epoxy? There isn't any finish that can entirely stop moisture exchange between the wood and the air. Finishes can slow the exchange (and some, including a good layer of epoxy, will slow it significantly), but they can't prevent it entirely.
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Dec 31, 2015 18:09
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I totally understand they're going to be rougher and nastier than a really nice new or well restored plane, but I don't have the free time to go hunting for old planes or the disposable cash to blow on a really nice new ones. Plus if I'm going to gently caress it up I'd rather it cost £20 than £200.
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Dec 31, 2015 21:04
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Pagan posted:The most painful injury I've received in my shop (so far) I'm afraid I don't have advice, but I do appreciate how you accepted the inevitability of a more severe injury. Along those lines: I hosed up on the router today and went the wrong way against the bit with my piece. I've never had anything explode in my face like that. One small nick was the extent of the shrapnel damage, thankfully. 
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Jan 1, 2016 02:46
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Cakefool posted:I totally understand they're going to be rougher and nastier than a really nice new or well restored plane, but I don't have the free time to go hunting for old planes Serious reply: if you don't have the time to hunt for a good used plane you don't have the time to fix a poorly made one, which will in turn slow down everything you do with it even after you tune it. Basically I'm saying there is more time savings in buying a good plane to start than buying a junky plane that will need fiddling to work, and more fiddling off and on as you use it. midge posted:I'm looking at picking up my first plane. ... I've said that so many times and found out, yes, it can be that bad. Dukket posted:For rust removal - chemical? Steel wool? Wd40 and Scotch Brite pad? I think a friend has a grinder with a wire brush wheel. Hands on will be faster, hands off will be slower but slightly less labor. The exception might be electrolysis which takes time and effort to set up and isn't worth it for small amounts of work. There isn't truly a "hands off" method, all of them will require some scrubbing. Frogmanv2 posted:So wood expands and contracts with the seasons. Is this due to the humidity in the air? If I completely coated every surface in epoxy and stopped and humidity contacting the wood, would that stop the changes, or would it still move and eventually crack the epoxy? It will reduce moisture exchange significantly which will reduce the amount of contraction and expansion but you should always assume there will be some movement.
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Jan 1, 2016 10:32
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I know a guy who bought two cheap modern planes once, or I know the guy who tried to help fix them. With the help of a machine shop as well as some welding they got one average but usable plane, the other just wasn't salvageable even with his machine shop and was thrown away.
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Jan 1, 2016 14:47
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wormil posted:Serious reply: if you don't have the time to hunt for a good used plane you don't have the time to fix a poorly made one, which will in turn slow down everything you do with it even after you tune it. Basically I'm saying there is more time savings in buying a good plane to start than buying a junky plane that will need fiddling to work, and more fiddling off and on as you use it. I'm going to have to respectfully disagree, but our priorities may differ. Hunting for a good used plane means either trawling eBay for months looking for the elusive "obviously good but not astonishingly overpriced", then restoring it, or trying to find flea markets, car boot sales etc and spending most of my weekend driving there in the hope there will be planes, that are good, and reasonably priced. Then restoring them. Those weekends are the only time I get with my kids. So I'll buy a cheap plane from Amazon, it'll be here the next day, with a pretty good returns policy if it's truly garbage. I'll learn to sharpen it, which I'd need to do regardless. I'll learn how it goes together and comes apart. And I'll spend my evenings learning woodworking, rather than waiting for a deal to turn up. The idea you must have the best tools holds you back from just getting stuck in and learning.
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Jan 1, 2016 14:50
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I don't know about you but there are like half a dozen flea markets near here, and I am in the middle of nowhere. I pop in at one now and then and sometimes I come home with a plane. Usually the restoring is removing rust, which is optional. Basically most functional restoring is cleaning gunk, 20-30 minutes job, then sharpening. Flattening the sole isn't need most of the time either. And nevermind craigslist equivalents where you can just put up a wanted ad.
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Jan 1, 2016 15:40
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Stanley #4's are universally easy to find on eBay. There are a dozen in good shape with buy it nows around $80, which is a good deal. If you have time to post on SA, I fail to see how it's impossible to find time to buy something on eBay. Particularly compared with dicking with a garbage plane from Amazon, and then finding time to return it after you've given up.
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Jan 1, 2016 15:51
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Sometimes "restoring" a vintage plane consists of sharpening it and that's all. If that's all you want to do, it will go a lot further on an older well made plane than a crappy one made today. In other news my wife got me a Mk2 honing guide, I think it's absolutely great, I finally know what a sharp tool feels like. I've never been able to shave arm hairs sharpening by hand or with my crappy honing guide. The first set of dovetails with my super sharp chisels were such a joy. I haven't got my planes sharp yet because I'm starting with my oldest one which is out of whack pretty bad, I've been off and on for a couple days with that blade on a course stone. Some progress on the secretary desk, it really just needs a lid and about a dozen drawers at this point to be complete. 
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Jan 1, 2016 15:53
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Yes I've looked on eBay, there are always "Stanley #4s" available, usually selling from £30-50, some even made by Stanley. What condition are they in? Are they complete, are they fixable, need restoring, need replacement parts, twisted etc? Don't know until you've won one, waited for it and hosed about with it for hours. Returning things to Amazon is incredibly easy, I've done it before. I don't know what you guys are expecting but the planes that turned up cut straightaway. Yes they're not incredible hand tuned masterpieces individually blessed by Stanley himself but the castings are straight, all the parts are there, they're assembled in the right order, they cut wood. And I've got them in my garage now, rather than dicking around waiting to find the perfect tool.
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Jan 1, 2016 16:01
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Cakefool posted:Yes I've looked on eBay, there are always "Stanley #4s" available, usually selling from £30-50, some even made by Stanley. What condition are they in? Are they complete, are they fixable, need restoring, need replacement parts, twisted etc? Don't know until you've won one, waited for it and hosed about with it for hours. Yeah, I don't think it's a huge deal to just get one cheap new plane to start with. You'll learn about how they are put together and that will help you pick out subsequent planes on eBay. With a little experience you can see most of those details in the photos in an auction listing. Usually your standard bench planes are never missing any parts and if they are it's really obvious in the photos. The main things to look for are cracks in the casting, broken or plastic handles and how much of the blade is left (you can see the difference in the two Stanley #5s below). When it comes to the specialty planes then you need to know a little more like whether it should come with a depth stop or fence. In the spirit of tidying up these are the planes that don't bring me joy. I'll clean, tune and sharpen them eventually for sale on eBay but again, if anyone is ever out on the Olympic Peninsula I'd be happy to give any of them to goons, or if you want to pay the shipping.  Anant #4?, Groz #4, 5 and 7. No-name #3, two Stanley #4s and #5s. Aside from the Anant and Groz planes, I picked them up at local estate sales for a few bucks each and just wanted to keep them in use rather than becoming rusty display pieces, so I'd be happy to give them to good homes. PS - Harbor Freight is doing a 25% coupon today only. I did have a look at their workbench kit and agree it's probably not worth the money. It would need at least a cross brace or two to be sturdy and at that point you might as well build your own with 2x4s.
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Jan 1, 2016 18:00
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If I was on the right continent I'd have given you money to ship a 4, 5 and the 7. First notable points on the cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Jan 1, 2016 |
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Jan 1, 2016 18:32
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Cpt.Wacky posted:two Stanley #4s and #5s. Certainly interested if you'll ship to Toronto, CANADAADANDANDADADA
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Jan 1, 2016 18:42
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