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You can fix it by lowering the clock or bumping voltage sometimes, but since you already have a working replacement and presumably you are mad at that card and possibly asus, that is probably the best choice
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Jan 2, 2016 05:03
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Just as a pure geek exercise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXOaCkbt4lI * 2X Xeon E5-2697 V3 * ASUS Z10PE-D8 WS * 256 GB of ECC RAM * SEVEN FURY NANOS, WITH WATERBLOCKS. Idle power consumption is 250W, 1539W under load. SwissArmyDruid fucked around with this message at 08:52 on Jan 3, 2016 |
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Jan 3, 2016 08:50
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I think $30,000 is too much for that.
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Jan 3, 2016 10:16
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Sormus posted:So, my GTX780 seems to have bit the dust and I need a replacement card. I am currently using a backup HD6850 I had still tucked away just for these kinds of situations. Sormus posted:might be important note: I will be warrantying the card so i'll get some sort of store credit towards replacement. I just have no idea what they will consider "equal", so I dont know what kind of credit I'm looking at. Sormus posted:Do note that they can and will offer AMD cards as equivalent. However, I am hoping they offer a 970 so i can pay the price-difference for a 980. I had exactly the same issues with the card as Goon Matchmaker had. Short gaming always led to a crash. Gpu fans at 100% and "No Signal" on display, sometimes just giving a BSOD or DirectX "Driver Removed" error. Returned card to shop I purchased it from and they re-verified it was a hardware issue. Shop replaced card with MSI GTX 970.
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Jan 3, 2016 11:32
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SwissArmyDruid posted:Just as a pure geek exercise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXOaCkbt4lI Mmmm, I sure do love overloading my 15A circuits and causing the breaker to poo poo itself.
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Jan 3, 2016 12:39
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Built a new rig and stuck my old 970 in it for now. Went looking on ebay for a cheap replacement card for my old rig when all of a sudden I stumbled onto this beauty. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Palit-970-gtx-/252234010620?hash=item3aba518ffc:g:W1wAAOSwv-NWZu8r
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Jan 3, 2016 13:39
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What's the cheapest GTX 970 with better (less noisy) than stock cooling?
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Jan 3, 2016 15:08
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Kazinsal posted:Mmmm, I sure do love overloading my 15A circuits and causing the breaker to poo poo itself. If you have $30k worth of hardware i would hope you would have at least 1 or 2 230volt circuits.
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Jan 3, 2016 15:37
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Kazinsal posted:Mmmm, I sure do love overloading my 15A circuits and causing the breaker to poo poo itself. Jeez is electrical wiring in America really that poo poo. 1.5kW draw is babys play anywhere else.
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Jan 3, 2016 15:59
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A 120V/15A circuit should deliver 1.8 kW with no issue. If they're throwing breakers at 1.5 their wiring is probably crap (very possible, a lot of people have sub-code wiring).
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Jan 3, 2016 16:20
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wait, 1.5kw can trip a breaker in america? I guess my 4kw heater would blow up an american house
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Jan 3, 2016 16:27
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Rigged Death Trap posted:Jeez is electrical wiring in America really that poo poo. It's the lovely 110V that causes the problem.
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Jan 3, 2016 16:43
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HalloKitty posted:It's the lovely 110V that causes the problem. yeah having 230v owns it owns a lot less when wired on a ring main
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Jan 3, 2016 16:48
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cat doter posted:wait, 1.5kw can trip a breaker in america? I guess my 4kw heater would blow up an american house It shouldn't no. Only if something is not wired properly. You can also have 20amp breakers or 230v
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Jan 3, 2016 16:50
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I've got a HD 7870 I'd like to upgrade, games are starting to leave it behind but I have no idea how big the leap is any more within the same price bracket. Would a 4GB version of either a R9 380 or GTX 960 give a big enough improvement over it at 1080p to justify getting an upgrade or do I need to go up a level to see a difference (390/970)? Ideally I'd like to keep my budget below £200.
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Jan 3, 2016 17:19
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...and as someone who has worked in a lot of houses, there is a lot of shockingly (no pun intended) bad wiring out there. Throwing a breaker a little too easily would be the least of your problems.
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Jan 3, 2016 17:25
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Cancelbot posted:I've got a HD 7870 I'd like to upgrade, games are starting to leave it behind but I have no idea how big the leap is any more within the same price bracket. Would a 4GB version of either a R9 380 or GTX 960 give a big enough improvement over it at 1080p to justify getting an upgrade or do I need to go up a level to see a difference (390/970)? Ideally I'd like to keep my budget below £200.
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Jan 3, 2016 17:33
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cat doter posted:wait, 1.5kw can trip a breaker in america? I guess my 4kw heater would blow up an american house Most home circuits here are 15A@110v, so 1650 watts maximum.  Some circuits might be on 20amp breakers, and things like electric stoves/ranges, electric water heaters, or heaters will be on much higher amperage circuits (40-50), or just hooked up with 220v.
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Jan 3, 2016 19:51
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Linus didn't say anything about breakers tripping? Then again I'm sure they're running 20A circuits in that office. O noes, my $30,000 monster novelty computer might not work. Guess I'm screwed since I spent all my money and can't have a new circuit run
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Jan 3, 2016 19:54
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Don Lapre posted:It shouldn't no. Only if something is not wired properly. Yeah I live in a 100-year-old apartment building in Boston with its original wiring, the breaker will easily trip around 1400-1500.
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Jan 3, 2016 20:17
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Zero VGS posted:Yeah I live in a 100-year-old apartment building in Boston with its original wiring, the breaker will easily trip around 1400-1500. A 15 amp breaker? Because it sounds like you have a 12a breaker, or a faulty 15a
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Jan 3, 2016 21:23
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SwissArmyDruid posted:Just as a pure geek exercise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXOaCkbt4lI My god 1500W power consumption...
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Jan 3, 2016 21:27
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Don Lapre posted:A 15 amp breaker? Because it sounds like you have a 12a breaker, or a faulty 15a Probably a 12a breaker then, so the whole building doesn't burn down. I was just illustrating the point that US can have some janky wiring. Luckily I got that Skylake action so I can to run the air conditioner and the PC at the same time 
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Jan 3, 2016 21:37
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Gwaihir posted:Most home circuits here are 15A@110v, so 1650 watts maximum. Zero VGS posted:Yeah I live in a 100-year-old apartment building in Boston with its original wiring, the breaker will easily trip around 1400-1500. Don Lapre posted:A 15 amp breaker? Because it sounds like you have a 12a breaker, or a faulty 15a Most circuit breakers (anything you put in a home) will be "80% derated", meaning 15A is the maximum peak current, and they can only carry 80% of that (12A) continuously. So the most you can continuously pull at 110V is 1320W. If you're actually pulling 1400-1500W at the wall and your voltage is that droopy, that explains why you're tripping breakers. It sounds dumb but it's advantageous to do this way because if you had 100%-rated breakers you need heavier wires that are rated to handle the higher temperature that result from continuous high-power operation. It's all good though, the contractor got to save an extra $100 when he wired your house. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Jan 3, 2016 |
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Jan 3, 2016 21:43
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North American wiring is an archaic relic of the days from when we couldn't standardize for poo poo. A friend of mine lives in a condo (about 40 years old) where the lights dim if he turns his laser printer on. Most homes don't have 20 amp outlets/circuits, and there are generally only two or three 230V outlets (refrigerator, electric stove/oven, laundry). Electrical is installed by idiots as well it seems. The breaker panel in the townhouse I live in is loving upside down and apparently has been for 20 years.
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Jan 3, 2016 21:47
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Kazinsal posted:North American wiring is an archaic relic of the days from when we couldn't standardize for poo poo. A friend of mine lives in a condo (about 40 years old) where the lights dim if he turns his laser printer on. Laser printers draw a tremendous amount of power when they heat up which is why. Its actually not uncommon at all.
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Jan 3, 2016 21:54
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I lived in a house with two glass fuse boxes and a breaker box all daisy chained together. The wiring was run higgeldy-piggeldy and supported as minimally as possible from the joists. A minor miracle it never burned around us  I would imagine if you live in a much older house the copper is starting to oxidize in earnest and voltage droop is a real concern.
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Jan 3, 2016 21:59
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I lived in a century-old house that originally had knob-and-tube wiring (thankfully replaced). You had wires with a single layer of lightweight cloth insulation, suspended from touching anything by the "knobs" and insulated by the "tubes" as they passed through joists in the walls. They banned using it in the 50s or 60s because the insulation had a delightful tendency to fray, particularly if you ever cut it open to splice in a new connection. But as long as you never (admit you're) rewiring anything, it's perfectly legal to still have that wiring in use today. You're also not allowed to reinsulate over the top of K&T, because it's designed to dissipate heat to the surrounding air. Guess what everyone's doing nowadays to cut their heat bills?   Pleasant dreams, all 
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Jan 4, 2016 |
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Jan 3, 2016 22:06
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We had some blokes (I'd be hesitant to call them electricians) out from the council to install a new breaker box thing and update the plug sockets. Not only did they do stuff like leave wires just loose and roaming around in the sockets (and a couple with the earth wired up to the live???), they fitted the new board directly over a leather jacket hanging up under the stairs. Like screwed through the leather directly over the top. Oh and a live junction underneath the leaking bath they just fitted but hey ho. In other news I got my 560ti up to 950mhz core and life is grand! I'd never experienced games at a solid 60fps and its like a buttery new experience  granted do far I've only been running ksp and kotor2, but still. I never thought I'd have a system powerful enough to get kotors janky-rear end engine running that good.
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Jan 3, 2016 22:22
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Paul MaudDib posted:
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Jan 3, 2016 22:26
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Probably, but we all know how much you like old wood
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Jan 3, 2016 22:34
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Cancelbot posted:I've got a HD 7870 I'd like to upgrade, games are starting to leave it behind but I have no idea how big the leap is any more within the same price bracket. Would a 4GB version of either a R9 380 or GTX 960 give a big enough improvement over it at 1080p to justify getting an upgrade or do I need to go up a level to see a difference (390/970)? Ideally I'd like to keep my budget below £200. If you don't mind a stock blower, I have a 290(x) looking for a new home.
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Jan 3, 2016 22:44
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Don Lapre posted:Laser printers draw a tremendous amount of power when they heat up which is why. Its actually not uncommon at all. Yup, my parent's house wired in the 90s (and my dad is an EE and micromanaged all the electrical/networking) still dimmed when you'd turn on a laser printer. Related: the laser printer was the straw that broke the circuit breaker's back in the only time I've ever popped one in that circa-1900 house (was also running an amp, a PC, and an electric heater on the circuit). Someone printed and oh hey I'm on the UPS now. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Jan 4, 2016 |
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Jan 4, 2016 04:03
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I'm probably grabbing a 970, what brand should be the best combination of reliable and quiet? I am a bit wary of MSI after they gave me a DOA motherboard which was a horrible experience. This one looks good for reliability but reviews say it is loud.
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Jan 4, 2016 05:54
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I have this one: http://www.pbtech.co.nz/index.php?z=p&p=VGAAS65605&name=Asus-STRIX-GTX-970-DirectCU-II-Overclocked-4GB-GDD It's silent at idle and quiet under load so no complaints there. No comment on support (not even applicable here as I'd just return to the retailer) Interesting you had issues with MSI, generally they're the recommended brand when it comes to support.
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Jan 4, 2016 06:16
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This makes me thankful for the completely over the top building codes we have where you have to have 3 seperate 2.5mm^2 conductors per 16A group even though the next country over with their lax standards think you can get away with 1.5mm^2 in a all in one cable.
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Jan 4, 2016 07:02
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Gestalt Intellect posted:I'm probably grabbing a 970, what brand should be the best combination of reliable and quiet? I am a bit wary of MSI after they gave me a DOA motherboard which was a horrible experience. ASUS would be next in line for those criteria, generally. MSI ones are considered very good though for noise and cost
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Jan 4, 2016 07:40
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So apparently AMD is naming the overall upcoming GPU uarch as Polaris, and they've released several slides. This one caught my attention and seems kind of confusing. Are they talking about total system draw here, because 140W for a GTX 950 sounds really high, but total draw also seems rather low with the mentioned 4790K and 16GB DDR4-2600. Maybe they overclocked the hell out of the 950? Couple other slides:   I don't know how much of this is actually worth thinking about, but it seems AMD is scheduling release of Arctic Islands/Polaris some time Q2 2016, likely ahead of Nvidia. Thus AMDs quarter by quarter release schedule this year is Q1 AM4 motherboards and Excavator Desktop, Q2 Arctic Islands, Q3??? (FP4 mobile?), Q4 Zen initial release.
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Jan 4, 2016 08:56
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Nvidia tends to take their kicks in the pants well, and Pascal has been announced for a long while now. Im expecting some kind of release slightly prior to AMD's.
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Jan 4, 2016 10:20
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| # ? May 15, 2024 12:36 |
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I think I'd be wary of any claims until reviewers get hands on the cards. The last time the Furies were released, the X version was beating the 980Ti soundly in every game according to AMD, which it turned out to not be the case in actual real life.
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Jan 4, 2016 11:00
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