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8ender posted:Just look at how wrong this guy is No he's right, sometimes the D-window does look better. It's not common, but it happens.
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Jan 7, 2016 10:38
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blk posted:Wheel chat: repair my banged up alloys ($100-$150 each) or keep em and buy refurbs of unknown provenance off eBay ($160-$170 each; rockauto is out of keystone sourced wheels) I just went to the junkyard and got a set for $65 each, so that may be worth a look. Plus you can see what you're getting up close. Update on my Camry, it started running properly again. We suspect it either got some bad gas or some debris got into the gas line and clogged an injector when we changed the fuel filter. The last owner hadn't changed the filter in what we guess was over 200k miles (It was there so long we broke a bolt getting it out and it was full of mud). So  I guess.
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Jan 8, 2016 |
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Jan 7, 2016 15:57
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Cage posted:I dont know what kind of car you drive, but you should buy some soft 8s for it. I've been looking for wheels for my truck that wouldn't look like poo poo and weren't 250+ each for a while. I think I just found 'em. 
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Jan 7, 2016 20:44
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I live near Atlanta and just bought a 2013 Genesis coupe. It's currently got new all-season tires on it. Should I get winter tires? Tire Rack is quoting me $753, which hurts, but I'd suck it up if it meant I wouldn't die in the snow and could keep the tires for a few years anyway. Still, if it's unnecessary I'd just as soon not bother with it. It feels stupid even asking when it's currently 50F outside.
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Jan 8, 2016 17:42
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Blue Scream posted:I live near Atlanta and just bought a 2013 Genesis coupe. It's currently got new all-season tires on it. Should I get winter tires? Tire Rack is quoting me $753, which hurts, but I'd suck it up if it meant I wouldn't die in the snow and could keep the tires for a few years anyway. Still, if it's unnecessary I'd just as soon not bother with it. No. Does Atlanta even get more than a couple inches a year, if that?
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Jan 8, 2016 17:48
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Ozmiander posted:No. Does Atlanta even get more than a couple inches a year, if that? Yeah, and if it snows, it's not like you're going anywhere. I'd just keep the all seasons so they don't get hard in the winter. I'd only consider two sets of tires if you have summer tires that won't work well in the cold.
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Jan 8, 2016 17:51
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Uthor posted:Yeah, and if it snows, it's not like you're going anywhere. Yeah, 2014 was a total nightmare, and supposedly this winter is going to be really cold thanks to El Nino. We don't get a lot of snow, but when it comes everything goes to hell. I did okay before by mostly staying home and being careful in my FWD if I had to go out, but this is my first RWD car, so I thought I'd ask. Looks like I'll be okay though.
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Jan 8, 2016 17:56
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General_Failure posted:I'm sure people like kastein could answer this one while comatose. Yeah, IIRC Dex3/4 is the factory spec. Raluek posted:No he's right, sometimes the D-window does look better. It's not common, but it happens. Once in a while V5s look better than either, too. I bought mine because the D windows and soft 8s were both out of stock and I needed wheels RFN... and ended up liking them.
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Jan 8, 2016 18:01
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Hey all, I apologize if this gets asked a bazillion times or is answered someplace obvious that I missed. I have a 2014 Mazda3 that I purchased new. It has about 22k on it right now. I've been taking it to the dealership and following their basic maintenance schedule which it seems is basically just oil change and tire rotation. They also do a full inspection and lubricate the locks according to the paper. For all of this (and a car wash!) I'm paying about $170 per service visit. I think I might be pissing money away. Am I? If I take my car somewhere else or perform service myself am I loving myself if I need the warranty?
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Jan 9, 2016 16:39
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You can do work yourself to cover warranty. I purchase my oil filters on amazon so I have a record and keep a date/mileage log in excel. I mean if you don't rotate your tires it isn't like they can void your engine warranty. Just look up the maintenance schedule in the user manual.
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Jan 9, 2016 17:15
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At the very least, a good independent shop can do that work for way less than $170. If you want to do the work yourself, 170 would cover the tools you need to get started doing it yourself. Then each oil change is just the cost of oil+filter and whatever cat litter/etc costs to clean up the oil you spilled on your driveway
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Jan 9, 2016 17:31
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Tots posted:Hey all, I apologize if this gets asked a bazillion times or is answered someplace obvious that I missed. I have a 2014 Mazda3 that I purchased new. It has about 22k on it right now. I've been taking it to the dealership and following their basic maintenance schedule which it seems is basically just oil change and tire rotation. They also do a full inspection and lubricate the locks according to the paper. For all of this (and a car wash!) I'm paying about $170 per service visit. I think I might be pissing money away. Am I? If I take my car somewhere else or perform service myself am I loving myself if I need the warranty? All of this stuff is SUPER easy to do yourself. A basic set of sockets (if you don't have any and you're on a budget, Harbor Freight is good enough), a jack of some type, and at least 2 jackstands...4 will make the tire rotation easier, and they go on sale all the time. You can use the tire iron that came with your car, but the 4-sided ones help speed things up. You can get all of this for under $100. You'll spend somewhere around $30 for oil and filter. A tube of graphite powder for the locks is about $2. Tire rotation costs nothing. The inspection areas are in your owners manual's maintenance schedule. It's mostly just looking at things to make sure they're not visibly crumbling or broken. There's a reason shops do 100 point inspections in two minutes, it's because they're not doing anything besides shining a flashlight at things if there's a shadow in the way. And the good thing is that all the tools above can help you with other things too. Next thing you know, your brakes will be due for replacement and the shop will quote you $350 but you just saw an ad at autozone or whatever that the pads are on sale for $35. You'll find a youtube video that shows how to do it, and you realize that by rotating the tires you were actually halfway through the brake job and didn't realize it. And so on.  Edit: Keep your receipts if you're worried about the warranty. They can't require you to get it done anywhere, just to get it done.
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Jan 9, 2016 19:36
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Co-workers daughter just got quoted $600 for 2008 mazda 3 brake job at the dealer. The whole set of rotors and pads is $170 and they said she should do it next oil change so no idea where the other $430 is going because that is way much for labor and dealer part markup.
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Jan 9, 2016 21:03
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Christobevii3 posted:Co-workers daughter just got quoted $600 for 2008 mazda 3 brake job at the dealer. The whole set of rotors and pads is $170 and they said she should do it next oil change so Fixed. If you're not having warranty work or something that only the dealer can do find a reputable independent shop.
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Jan 9, 2016 22:04
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I have a hydroboost unit for a 7.3 PSD that I pulled off a parts truck for my truck. Theres a quarter inch long hairline fracture in the casing, on the bottom where the master cylinder bolts up. Think it'll be an issue?
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Jan 10, 2016 00:55
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General_Failure posted:I'm sure people like kastein could answer this one while comatose. Don't know why I bothered to look this up (probably because I remember the A340E which requires a HFM fluid making it into some Jeeps), but yeah the 42RE transmissionuses ATF+3, so yeah if Dexron 3 is equivalent then that's cool.
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Jan 10, 2016 01:39
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I'm rebuilding this 5.0 for my ranger project and the machine shop hung my pistons backwards. There are no oil slingers in the conrods so I turned each conrod 180° and now all the pistons are wrong but the conrods are right. The pistons have mirrored valve reliefs so the top of it is fine but is the wrist pin ever offset in these engines? Sealed power h273cp pistons.
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Jan 10, 2016 18:30
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Is it too much work to just take them back and tell them to flip them around the other way? Won't the exhaust valve reliefs be slightly smaller than the intake ones and lead to potential contact? All modernish engines have offset wrist pins AFAIK but I don't know anything about the 5.0 specifically,
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Jan 10, 2016 18:56
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Any recommendations for a bluetooth gateway / adapter I can plug in to an aux in on my car? I'm going to mount it in the center console, so ideally it's something that just turns out once it receives power through a 12v -> USB adapter.
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Jan 10, 2016 19:06
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MomJeans420 posted:Any recommendations for a bluetooth gateway / adapter I can plug in to an aux in on my car? I'm going to mount it in the center console, so ideally it's something that just turns out once it receives power through a 12v -> USB adapter. I've been searching for something like this since last summer. I had varying degrees of success with cheap receivers that basically look like a USB thumb drive with an 1/8th stereo jack on the end, invariably they drop connection or fail to stay paired with devices. I recently bought a receiver that's intended for home theater use for my wife's car. I haven't installed it yet because I ordered a USB to barrel connector cable to power it but it's being shipped from Taiwan and won't be here until early next month. So far it's worked well testing with a pair of headphones on my desk, only real drawback is it only remembers one device at a time and you have to push a button on the back to pair, so you can't bury it deep inside the dashboard.
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Jan 10, 2016 21:19
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Extend the button, make it external. Easy.
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Jan 10, 2016 22:53
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I recently moved to Florida and my 2002 Accord is spawning  mold all over the interior - mostly on the seats, but also now on the headliner. I moved from New England, and this car spent winters outside. About a month ago, I noticed a wet patch of carpet below the driver's seat, which I dried out using a shop vac. That was around the same time the mold started. I gave it a thorough carpet shampooing around the wet spot (and all of the carpeting), but now the mold is back. I ordered an ozone generator from Amazon, which will hopefully help. I don't remember the last time I drove it in the rain, but it is very humid here. My car is usually very clean with practically nothing in it. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing the mold? Post Alone fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Jan 11, 2016 |
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Jan 11, 2016 02:22
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So my moms 2006 PT Cruiser  started running poorly and losing power last night. I didn't actually see the symptoms because the answer to "when have you changed the spark plugs in this 120,000 mile motor" was "never" so I just started there. I changed the plugs and wires and now it runs "great" (she says great, I rode in it around the block and it does seem to run fine, but with the hood up the accessory belt seemed to squeak some; but anyway here's my question:Is this much oil on this plug a sign of something serious:  Oil all the way down/up the threads. It's only on the one plug, from cylinder 1. From the Valves? From the Piston Ring?  Also the wear wasn't even. While THAT plug was oily another one was ground down to nothing, another seemed old and worn out but kind of okish, I dunno. Car seems to run fine now, but feel free to give me things to worry about.
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Jan 11, 2016 02:58
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It's hard to see but I wouldn't worry about it, all the plugs I've done on high mileage cars have basically looked like that, might even just be a valve cover gaskets leaking. Most I would do is keep an eye on the oil consumption. My own stupid question: I took off the intake on my e36 m44 4-cyl motor and noticed that while the #1 intake valves are closed, the #4 are open roughly half a centimeter. They're supposed to be on the same timing, right? Can worn cams or weak springs result in that much of a gap? Other than that all four intake ports are in the same condition and the car runs fine. Could it just be a leaky lifter?
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Jan 11, 2016 05:08
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Jack B Nimble posted:Is this much oil on this plug a sign of something serious: Looks like a regular plug. I wouldn't worry about it. Put it back in for another 100,000 miles and then post another picture.
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Jan 11, 2016 05:17
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Xy Hapu posted:My own stupid question: I took off the intake on my e36 m44 4-cyl motor and noticed that while the #1 intake valves are closed, the #4 are open roughly half a centimeter. They're supposed to be on the same timing, right? Can worn cams or weak springs result in that much of a gap? Other than that all four intake ports are in the same condition and the car runs fine. Could it just be a leaky lifter? Even though two pistons are moving up or down in a stroke at the same time, they aren't doing the same thing, so if your #4 piston is on the intake stroke (intake valves open) and moving downward, the #1 piston will also be moving downward, but will be on the power stroke (all valves closed) Only one cylinder's intake valves will be open during any given stroke in a 4 cylinder engine.
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Jan 11, 2016 05:43
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Jack B Nimble posted:So my moms 2006 PT Cruiser If you need things to worry about, find out if the timing belt and water pump have been changed. If not, it's on borrowed time.
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Jan 11, 2016 13:39
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rdb posted:If you need things to worry about, find out if the timing belt and water pump have been changed. If not, it's on borrowed time. Already broke and and fixed! Ok, I can't imagine I'll still be working on this car in another 100k so cool, thanks.
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Jan 11, 2016 16:14
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Slavvy posted:Is it too much work to just take them back and tell them to flip them around the other way? Won't the exhaust valve reliefs be slightly smaller than the intake ones and lead to potential contact? Sorry, should have been more specific. It's a modular 5.0 so it's two valve. The valve reliefs are the exact same when rotated 180°. There's one intake and one exhaust on each side which makes me think it can be run either way. But then there's also an f for front on all the skirts. The machine shop that did the work is over an hour away and I don't want to take all the pistons back out, remove all the bearings, drive them down there, have them re hang the pistons, and then have to start all over.
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Jan 11, 2016 18:00
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Murder She Twote posted:I recently moved to Florida and my 2002 Accord is spawning Coming from a Floridian, the thing causing the mold is the humidity itself. There are always spores in the air, and if the air in your car is still and humid long enough, they'll take hold in the upholstery. Your best bet is to get a mold killing spray (I've used Concrobium) and spray basically the entire interior down, including inside the A/C vents. The downside is that it's going to leave behind a residue, so you'll then need to seriously clean out your interior, wiping down all the hard bits and, ideally, steam vacuuming the upholstery. You can then put a couple Damprid containers in your car if it's going to sit for more than a couple days to keep the interior humidity down. After all that malarkey, mold shouldn't take hold if it's driven daily with fresh air circulating through it. Do you know if there're any rust holes that could be letting water into your car?
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Jan 11, 2016 18:32
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Do any of the luxury brands make it easy to do your own maintenance on recent model years?
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Jan 11, 2016 18:52
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Chuu posted:Do any of the luxury brands make it easy to do your own maintenance on recent model years? Brakes, spark plugs, and oil changes are pretty easy on BMWs, more than that becomes a pain in the dick if it requires programming (like battery changes!). Can't imagine other brands are much different these days
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Jan 11, 2016 19:01
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My spare tire is a donut like most spare tires which has a 50 MPH / 50 Mile range. What I am wondering - is that 50 mile range '50 miles a trip' or '50 miles period'?
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Jan 11, 2016 19:27
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ultrabay2000 posted:My spare tire is a donut like most spare tires which has a 50 MPH / 50 Mile range. What I am wondering - is that 50 mile range '50 miles a trip' or '50 miles period'? You can probably run it for longer than 50 miles (and people regularly do), but realistically they're only intended and designed to get you from wherever the tire went flat to the nearest tire shop.
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Jan 11, 2016 19:42
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Don't know why I bothered to look this up (probably because I remember the A340E which requires a HFM fluid making it into some Jeeps), but yeah the 42RE transmissionuses ATF+3, so yeah if Dexron 3 is equivalent then that's cool. The 42RE and AW4/A340E are not the same transmission. XJs got AW4s/A340Es, which use Dexron, ZJs got 42REs which use Chrysler ATF+3 or ATF+4 depending on vintage. Basically just use the latest Dexron/Mercon spec, they're generally backward compatible. You can use whatever brand or flavor you like, I use the cheapest I can get because almost every, if not every ATF on the market is full synthetic, so there's very little real difference between them as long as they meet the spec IMO.
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Jan 11, 2016 19:47
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Geoj posted:You can probably run it for longer than 50 miles (and people regularly do), but realistically they're only intended and designed to get you from wherever the tire went flat to the nearest tire shop. Yeah that seems to be the case. I had to have a tire replaced, I took it to the dealer and they won't have the new tire in until tomorrow. Hypothetically I was wondering if it would be reasonable to use the car until then but I decided against it as I can carpool with one of my coworkers.
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Jan 11, 2016 20:43
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Yup, they're telling you that spare is only good for about 50 miles of driving in its lifetime, total. They build those things super light so that if the manufacturer is being nice enough to still give you a spare (cars without spares are A Thing now), they aren't sacrificing any window-sticker MPG to do so. Also, feel free to derate the speed / distance depending on the age of the spare. My Ranger's spare looked like it had hardly ever been used, but it was 15 years old when I needed to use it. Made it about 20 miles at a very gentle 40MPH before it shredded. Space-saver spares and runflats only exist to let you avoid either towing the car to a shop, or coming back out the next day and yanking the wheels and tires off and hauling them to a shop. The only vehicles with spares that you can run like a regular tire are the few trucks / SUVs that come with a full set of five matching wheels and regular tires on all five of them, so you can rotate the fifth one in with the rest.
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Jan 11, 2016 20:59
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I heard somewhere that one of the reasons for the ratings on spares is that, chances are, the spare isn't inflated properly (because no one checks) and will be experiencing loads it's not designed for. My spare is full diameter but narrower than the regular tires. I didn't think twice about driving it over 100 miles when I needed it, but kept it under the 50 mph limit listed on the wheel. Now, like 6 years later, I'm seriously wondering if I should get it replaced because of that drive.
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Jan 11, 2016 21:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:Space-saver spares and runflats only exist to let you avoid either towing the car to a shop, or coming back out the next day and yanking the wheels and tires off and hauling them to a shop. The only vehicles with spares that you can run like a regular tire are the few trucks / SUVs that come with a full set of five matching wheels and regular tires on all five of them, so you can rotate the fifth one in with the rest. I was a passenger riding home 32 miles in a 2009 Mercedes ML320 with a flat right/rear tire, which is runflat. We took side streets the whole way to keep it under 50mph. Went flat when we hit a flooded portion of freeway at 65mph.  Didn't seem to hydroplane based on how hard we plowed through it and how much water displaced onto the windshield. El Niņo indeed. I feel bad for his AWD system.
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Jan 12, 2016 00:13
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A $35 steelie and having the best of your old tires mounted on it every time you get a new set makes for a great non-donut spare if you have the trunk space for it. Wiser minds may opine, but I feel like an aging full sized tire is superior in every way to a donut, and it's objectively superior to nothing at all. AAA is great, but the one time I called them for a flat instead of changing it myself, the guy showed up without even a compressor to air it up, and pretty much intended to use my lovely jack and wrench - "intended" because they took way too loving long to show up and I just did it myself to get the gently caress out of there.
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Jan 12, 2016 06:17
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