|
Indolent Bastard posted:Is there anything more aggressive for stripping metal models than pure acetone? I have a few models that the last bits of paint just won't budge from. I use nitrocellulose solvent, poo poo for glue (I put them into acetone for a night later) but awesome for paint. Obv all the warnings for "more aggressive than acetone" apply.
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 11:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 19:10 |
|
|
Cross-posting from the Oath thread, I'm feeling pretty good about the Shades. Lord Hypnostache posted:Oath Complete!
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 12:11
|
|
|
If you really want to go nuclear on a lot of metal (and metal only, it will straight up destroy anything else) then get some paint stripper that contains dichloromethane. Be warned that it is hilariously toxic and dangerous, but I had a whole bunch of SoB come out of it looking like new after about fifteen minutes.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 12:18
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:I use nitrocellulose solvent, poo poo for glue (I put them into acetone for a night later) but awesome for paint. Obv all the warnings for "more aggressive than acetone" apply. Where might I go about finding this stuff?
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 13:23
|
|
|
DIY store, paint section. Look for cellulose thinner or cellulose solvent.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 14:02
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:This is a couple pages late (sorry, I'm just catching up) but there is an actual purpose-made cyanoacrylate remover product. Does anyone who has used this stuff know if it will get super glue out of fabric without also freeing the dye?
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 15:23
|
|
|
nesbit37 posted:Does anyone who has used this stuff know if it will get super glue out of fabric without also freeing the dye? I tried this stuff on an X-wing mini and not only did it melt the glue, it took out all the paint it touched and turned the plastic into sludge. I'm assuming it would probably free dye from clothes. Though I don't have any first hand experience.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 16:43
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:Where might I go about finding this stuff? Paint stores, I know it as "nitro" but posted the full name in case it's called differently in your region.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 17:36
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:Paint stores, I know it as "nitro" but posted the full name in case it's called differently in your region. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 17:42
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:Where might I go about finding this stuff? You can get the jellied paint remover at Home Depot or Lowes. That stuff will strip metal instantly - as you're applying it, the brush will be wiping the paint right off the model. I love this stuff when I'm feeling impatient.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 17:55
|
|
|
berzerkmonkey posted:You can get the jellied paint remover at Home Depot or Lowes. That stuff will strip metal instantly - as you're applying it, the brush will be wiping the paint right off the model. I love this stuff when I'm feeling impatient. Do you know the brand name?
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 18:12
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:Do you know the brand name? Klean Strip, but make sure you get the jelly version - I think they make a liquid version as well. I've also used Citristrip, though it isn't as fast, it smells better and is generally safer. I have a cheap container (gonna recommend an old pie pan or something metal) and I just put the models in and dump some goo on them. Taking a larger brush, I'll kind of spread the paint remover around on the models, trying to get it in all of the nooks and crannies. The paint sloughs right off and you're left with a pile of gooey paint. I'll just wash the models in soapy water and wipe the container out with a few paper towels and dump it in the trash. I will also recommend some decent gloves and eye protection, as the process of spreading the goo with the brush will cause some splattering, and you don't want it on your skin or in your eyes. This stuff will eat through latex gloves pretty much immediately.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 19:18
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:Is there anything more aggressive for stripping metal models than pure acetone? I have a few models that the last bits of paint just won't budge from. Dichloromethane/methylene chloride/plastic weld. Returns even the most unspiration-level models to factory fresh. Will also dissolve everything else on the metal including superglue and putties, so it's literally like a factory reset button. You can buy it off eBay from any lab supplier. E. F .b
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 22:27
|
|
|
Z the IVth posted:Dichloromethane/methylene chloride/plastic weld. Returns even the most unspiration-level models to factory fresh. I appreciate the effort, beaten to the punch or not. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 00:20
|
|
|
For UK goons, a similar (very loving nasty) product that will strip everything off of metal models, look no further than nitromors. Pro tip: it has a very very very low boiling point (42c), so don't go rinsing models covered in the stuff under the hot tap. It will melt your face off, give you cancer of the eyeballs and most likely burn away whatever facial hair you may or may not have. This is the voice of experience. Do not run it under hot water. (and it probably goes without saying that it's not suitable for anything but metal models)
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 00:26
|
|
|
I mean, whats wrong with acetone.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 00:44
|
|
|
ijyt posted:I mean, whats wrong with acetone. It's too weak and doesn't strip half the poo poo that people put on minis.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 01:38
|
|
|
ijyt posted:I mean, whats wrong with acetone. It isn't working.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 01:39
|
|
|
Just load up your car with minis to strip and drive it into an active volcano. No more 10 micron thick primer hiding in a crevice!
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 04:11
|
|
|
Skip all the hosed up chemicals and just use the tip of a hobby knife to scrape out the crevices if it's that important.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 04:53
|
|
|
To strip them I used Super Clean, it worked well, but not 100%. I went at the minis with a dental pick, it improved them, but there was still paint so I wanted something better. I had Citri-strip in my garage and it seems to be doing the job.
Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Jan 12, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 05:37
|
|
|
Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Cool poo poo as always, doc.   Super late, but thanks! I've been gushing over the blends on your faerie from last month. e: Okay, for content, here's a speedpaint I just finished from this month's Oath Thread. ...which I realized too late is, in the wake of the news about David Bowie, kinda inappropes. 
Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 07:16 on Jan 12, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 07:13
|
|
|
Biostrip20 is the best thing you can buy for stripping models. Non-toxic, non-irritant, sink flushable. Seriously, don't be a wally, be hip. Biostrip!
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 09:12
|
|
|
Gapey Joe Stalin posted:Biostrip20 is the best thing you can buy for stripping models. Non-toxic, non-irritant, sink flushable. Seriously, don't be a wally, be hip. Biostrip! I am convinced by the jingle alone.  Go figure if I'd be able to find it over here (  ) though thinking about it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 17:24
|
|
|
For those of you who might remember I was having to learn to paint again left handed following a period of critical illness. After months of physio I've abandoned that idea and gone back to painting with my hosed up hand. These are my first finished minis painted right handed post damage. In pretty pleased with them and feel encouraged I can get my mojo back.  
Serotonin fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Jan 12, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 20:38
|
|
|
Looks great! Better than me with my dominant left  Do you make your own birch seedpod leaf litter or do you have to buy them? I live in Vancouver so they just fall in the streets.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 20:49
|
|
|
Nah it's part of a kit I bought to do Autumn woodland bases. Lovely stuff
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 20:55
|
|
|
Serotonin posted:For those of you who might remember I was having to learn to paint again left handed following a period of critical illness. After months of physio I've abandoned that idea and gone back to painting with my hosed up hand. These look great dude. If you keep at it I bet you'll be back in your groove eventually. I don't know how you painted before, but these are solid.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 22:12
|
|
|
Got about three quarters of my oath done. First guy is Hamelin the Plagued. Wanted to get some extra points on my oath, so I thought I'd try the box art challenge. Here's his official art:  Here's what I came up with:   Here's a bit more light on the subject.  Slightly better look at the base.  Had lots of fun with water effects.  Gotta love striped socks. Next I did a Reaper Haunt mini.  Front view. Such a winning face, right?  Pretty happy with how his pajamas turned out.  Finally, the best of the bunch, Ghost Butler!  "Tea is served, sir."  "I've brought the fine china."
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2016 05:20
|
|
|
I've gotten started on some modeling lately, and I'm a little nervous about getting the liquid cement residue from assembly off. I know there are some rubber cement erasers on the market, but I'm unsure if they are viably sized for cleaning up something as small as a model. Are there other ways I should look into, or should I just go for the eraser?
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2016 06:36
|
|
|
Either I'm out of touch or having to build after work is affecting me more than I thought, this Knight build/magnetisation/clean up is taking ages. And then there are the Skitarii to build, Guild ball to de-mould line and paint, Tau to build.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2016 09:50
|
|
|
For those of you that are airbrushing with Minitaire paints, what mixing ration have you found to work out ok? I've been doing 1 part water to 4 parts paint at 10-15psi in my Badger 105 with the stock needle and getting ok results, but not as good as I would like for detail work. Just wondering what kind of ratios and pressures have been good for you.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2016 16:34
|
|
|
nesbit37 posted:For those of you that are airbrushing with Minitaire paints, what mixing ration have you found to work out ok? I've been doing 1 part water to 4 parts paint at 10-15psi in my Badger 105 with the stock needle and getting ok results, but not as good as I would like for detail work. Just wondering what kind of ratios and pressures have been good for you. No mixing 25 psi.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2016 16:41
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:Winsor & Newton Series 7 Brush Gift Set Includes 4 Small Rounds only $17.50 with free shipping on Amazon. I have no idea why the price is so low. Update: This set is back up to $75 as of this morning. I was too late
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2016 16:54
|
|
|
Dr. Gargunza posted:Update: This set is back up to $75 as of this morning. I was too late I ordered two, but i don't have my hopes up on actually receiving them.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2016 17:41
|
|
|
dexefiend posted:I ordered two, but i don't have my hopes up on actually receiving them. I did the same. It'll be a nice surprise in a couple months if they actually get shipped out. The fact that they were priced like that for almost a week makes me at least kind of optimistic that maybe it wasn't an error, but no harm in seeing what happens either way.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2016 17:53
|
|
|
I just recently got into 40k and have begun painting up some models. This is my first time painting much of anything in my adult life, and despite that I've been happy with my first few efforts, but I'm struggling to make tyranid carapace look as good as I'd like. Specifically I'd love to emulate the texture/color gradient of this: Any tips on the steps to replicate? The closest I've gotten was basing black, painting the back 1/2 with a dark grey, then hitting the back edges with a white, and finally adding some streaking with the finest brush I have (army painter psycho) but the resulting streaks are still comparatively thick and look painted on, for lack of a better phrase. I'm stumped as to how the fine streaks in the above are achieved.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2016 18:37
|
|
|
nesbit37 posted:For those of you that are airbrushing with Minitaire paints, what mixing ration have you found to work out ok? I've been doing 1 part water to 4 parts paint at 10-15psi in my Badger 105 with the stock needle and getting ok results, but not as good as I would like for detail work. Just wondering what kind of ratios and pressures have been good for you. I use Minitaire paints for most of my paintings. For basecoating with the paints I do what Indolent Bastard says, spray at about 25psi a few inches away. For details I use a Renegade Krome (roughly the same airbrush as the Sotar) at 10-15psi and spray at an inch or so away, thinning the paint enough so that it doesn't clog up or spider when it hits the surface. Paint viscosity can vary within a brand from color to color, so it's pretty variable really, you kind of learn how thick the paint color is and thin it from there. The amount you thin the paint can vary for loads of reasons, from the coverage you're doing, distance you're spraying, needle size, ambient temperature and more. Also, you're trying to do details with a pretty large airbrush needle size, almost as large as they get, so there's that to factor in as well.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2016 19:47
|
|
|
 I havent painted for a bit and I'm pretty happy with how this turned out. I didnt ntoice until after the pictures that the blue on the center got a bit out of hand, so I have to clean that up some. Any suggestions on improvements, things to do better? This is the test colors for my Oroshan firestorm fleet.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2016 20:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 19:10 |
|
|
krushgroove posted:
I have a Badger 360 with the ultra fine tip I usually do detail with, so maybe detail with the Patriot isn't right, but really just something more targeted than basecoating. I'll just keep thinking it down since spidering is giving me the most grief.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2016 20:04
|
|