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Crustashio posted:On my e46 it will go both ways. This must be a coding thing, because on my 2004 E46 the fob can roll all the windows down, but can't roll them up.
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Jan 14, 2016 00:33
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Bajaha posted:Cracked intake tract somewhere letting in unmetered air? Time to play around with an unlit torch and check for leaks. Unlit torch? Also I might consider those parts maintenance at this point. :/
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Jan 14, 2016 01:30
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When you hear the rpms spike, you know roughly where your leak is. Low budget technique for finding vacuum leaks.
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Jan 14, 2016 01:32
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PenisMonkey posted:I have no regrets concerning a straight 6 They must have changed recording studios this year.
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Jan 14, 2016 01:35
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BrokenKnucklez posted:They must have changed recording studios this year. Yeah that was a dumb thing to do on BMW's part. I went ahead and disconnected the amp for that poo poo.
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Jan 14, 2016 01:46
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BrokenKnucklez posted:They must have changed recording studios this year. I was going to say they changed it to a flac file this year.
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Jan 14, 2016 01:47
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Here is the video where they point out how much more superior 4 doors are than 2. http://youtu.be/Uv8-Xv2nNSo
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Jan 14, 2016 01:58
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Guinness posted:This must be a coding thing, because on my 2004 E46 the fob can roll all the windows down, but can't roll them up. It's a coding option in the GM5 module. I had to enable it with NCS Expert. There are also options that allows the windows to continue working with the ignition off even if someone opens the door. The_Franz fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Jan 14, 2016 |
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Jan 14, 2016 04:00
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Powershift posted:I was going to say they changed it to a flac file this year. Just like all you tube car videos, hold the microphone right next to the muffler tip. Because that's where the good noise comes from - Mr Regular
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Jan 14, 2016 05:28
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PenisMonkey posted:Here is the video where they point out how much more superior 4 doors are than 2. Four doors are for namby-pambies who concern themselves with things like "responsibilities" and "obligations". Two doors are for cool and awesome people who don't give a gently caress and have bourbon with their breakfast cereal.
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Jan 14, 2016 06:05
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MrOnBicycle posted:I finally found a 1995 sales brochure which really helped understanding what comes as standard with each model. Though I think the brochure is US based, so it might differ from euro spec. 520i is just too boring, 525i is better, but still a bit boring. There is only one 535i (turbo rebuild) and 4 540is (all autos) on the Craigslist equivalent here. So yeah, I guess the wait is on. I think the lower end models were way more popular here, since we didn't have the same "big engine culture" as the US. No idea where exactly you're located, but if it's central or northern Europe anything older (including those 5 series) is going to be rusty, generally busted and hell to work on/get fixed. In the UK, petrol E46 manuals (~98 - 2006 320i, 323i, 325i, 328i, 330i) seem to be ~£2,000 in decent condition, making them the best value for someone without a lift, a lot of time on their hands and shares in plus gas (or your thread unlocker of choice). Wrar posted:Unlit torch? Blowtorch, in case it wasn't obvious
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Jan 14, 2016 16:26
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Saga posted:No idea where exactly you're located, but if it's central or northern Europe anything older (including those 5 series) is going to be rusty, generally busted and hell to work on/get fixed. In the UK, petrol E46 manuals (~98 - 2006 320i, 323i, 325i, 328i, 330i) seem to be ~£2,000 in decent condition, making them the best value for someone without a lift, a lot of time on their hands and shares in plus gas (or your thread unlocker of choice). Northern Europe. I thought BMWs were pretty resilient to rust? I don't need a car as a daily driver, so the thought was more of a hobby car that I can take out for a fun spin (i.e nice big engine, rear wheel drive) and do some spannering. But not at all interesting in modding, styling and all that. But yeah, so far most ads have either been ones that I don't like the colour of / low powered engine, or cars that have the driver seat tilted back too far = It's been driven by people who probably like to thrash it. 530is seem impossible to find, and the 540is are all automatics (or touring, which I don't want). Though the automatic doesn't seem too bad? At least if it's got and MOT without any fauls or "good to know about upcoming rust problems" it's probably pretty clean. VVVV: Yeah, if it's in like white. But when it's metallic green that looks like my lovely first car, I'll pass + I've never had a sedan, and I want one. I'm bored of hatchbacks and estates. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Jan 14, 2016 |
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Jan 14, 2016 17:35
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E34 tourings are the best wtf man
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Jan 14, 2016 19:20
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MrOnBicycle posted:Northern Europe. I thought BMWs were pretty resilient to rust? The E34 had a tragic problem where the rubber door trim on the bottom of the doors would grind against the painted metal, eventually wearing it thin and causing epic rust. By the time you spotted the paint bubbles on the door above the rubber trim the rust was inside the bottom of the door. They also rusted where the plastic side trim was mounted to the front fenders and at the factory jack locations, though its much less of an issue than the doors. Otherwise they're amazingly rust proof. Mine has some sort of superior german rust coating on the bottom that was impervious to everything, and the rockers had what appeared to be 5 coats of paint on them.
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Jan 15, 2016 07:35
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A buddy of mine is offering to sell me his E90 (2006 I think) with AWD for $5k. Not sure on the miles or the exact model since I've never looked at E90s before, but it's non-turbo, that much I know. What should I look for in terms of problem areas?
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Jan 15, 2016 21:15
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CornHolio posted:A buddy of mine is offering to sell me his E90 (2006 I think) with AWD for $5k. Not sure on the miles or the exact model since I've never looked at E90s before, but it's non-turbo, that much I know. The auto in that vintage is sluggish, and the '06 had 215 hp instead of 230, but it's the same engine so a $500 flash makes it a 328. I ran just the tune for a fair while, and it definitely makes it into a 328 with a smidge more. Very worthwhile. The issue I've run into across two cars is the passenger seat occupancy sensor, but that may have been a recalled car and addressed. If not, it's a $300 part and cost me $250 in programming at a dealer. There may be a lifter tick, but it's not a problem, beat on it a bit to get more oil distributed and it's fine (actually the real solution). Might be in maintenance debt: Fluids, cooling system around 100k, suspension depending on driving pattern and area, alloy wheels may be deformed based on road quality. Brake jobs are a bit spendier than domestics, but honestly just as easy. The N52 engine is pretty solid, even the early ones. I know one guy here had issues with his E90, but across my two and my Dad's one, we've had very minimal problems. I traded in my '06 in 2012 for about $10k to a dealer, I haven't kept up on prices, but $5k is probably pretty fair.
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Jan 15, 2016 21:22
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mechaet posted:Put the key in the door handle, turn to the unlock position and hold; it should roll down all the windows. This unfortunately did not work :/ I think I may have to call a BMW mechanic.
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Jan 15, 2016 22:18
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Alarbus posted:The auto in that vintage is sluggish, and the '06 had 215 hp instead of 230, but it's the same engine so a $500 flash makes it a 328. I ran just the tune for a fair while, and it definitely makes it into a 328 with a smidge more. Very worthwhile. It's a manual, so that's not an issue. I think it does need a suspension refresh, bushings at the very least. Not sure if I want to buy it or keep pounding on my E39 540i until it dies.
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Jan 15, 2016 22:20
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CornHolio posted:It's a manual, so that's not an issue. I think it does need a suspension refresh, bushings at the very least. In all fairness, while I like the bluetooth and upgraded sound on the 09 (and the reassurance of CPO while I was doing the moving and getting married thing), I really think my 06 was a better made car. A stick and an N52 should be pretty solid. Oh, maybe the accessory belt should be done too, I'm doing mine this weekend. $150 for a parts kit for it, and an hour or so of work. I've never driven an 540i, so I don't have a basis of comparison for you. 
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Jan 15, 2016 22:31
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Question for you BMW-havers, particularly those who have owned both: how did/do you find the difference between RWD/AWD models? Is it noticeable in terms of driving feel, fuel economy, etc? Any preference?
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Jan 15, 2016 22:46
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The biggest qualm I have with the E90 is it feels like BMW really took a step back in terms of interior quality. Its not awful, but you can tell BMW was building this as a "lease" car.
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Jan 15, 2016 22:48
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El Scotch posted:Question for you BMW-havers, particularly those who have owned both: how did/do you find the difference between RWD/AWD models? RWD will always be the more feelsome configuration, if only because you can't casually doriftuuu AWD cars around corners without a considerably larger commitment to breaking the law.
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Jan 15, 2016 23:00
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Shamefully, I've only driven AWD BWMs, they were kind of necessary in Vermont with a 30 mile commute. Now that I'm out of New England, my next one will probably be RWD. I'm going to be doing a summer and all season rotation, and shelving the Blizzak winters. Philly doesn't have winter. Regarding interior quality, it's probably a fair statement. The rubberish coating on plastic bits like the steering wheel and door handles do wear faster than they probably should, and by all accounts the Dakota leather isn't great. Oddly, I didn't mind the fake leather in my 06. I like the seats though. BMW sport seats for life. I guess my only real WTF about the interior is the placement of the button for the heated steering wheel. It has an on light, but it's placed on the column behind the wheel, so you can basically never see it. 9 or 10 months of the year it doesn't matter, but they definitely shoe horned that thing in.
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Jan 15, 2016 23:40
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MrChips posted:Rear seats are for namby-pambies who concern themselves with things like "responsibilities" and "obligations". Roadsters are for cool and awesome people who don't give a gently caress and have bourbon with their breakfast cereal. Commit or go home.
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Jan 15, 2016 23:48
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El Scotch posted:Question for you BMW-havers, particularly those who have owned both: how did/do you find the difference between RWD/AWD models? If I had the choice I'd go RWD but I'm gonna be biased because the transfer case controller in mine is wigging out and causing me headaches. I'm going to assume you aren't talking about the x3 or x5 since those are all awd but the 3 and 5 series where you have the choice. The ATC300 transfer case is normally just RWD, and doesn't have a center diff, just some clutch packs to throw power up front when it is needed so in day to day driving it should feel mostly the same. If you are planning to work on things yourself I would definitely give the awd a miss since it fills up a lot of space that would otherwise make access simple. As an example, replacing the auto transmission wire seal is normally a breeze on rwd but took me ages and lots of cursing and pushing to avoid a complete exhaust removal in my xi. I assume fuel economy must take a hit but I think has much less impact than in the old days. Incidentally, does anyone know why my 4x4 light is coming on with code 5f3a and occasional 5462? No ABS or brake lights and no grinding noise, so I think the servo motor gears aren't stripped. All wheel sensors seem to be giving accurate readings and if I try to trigger the servo motor in rheingold it throws a no communication error. I think my next step is to see if there is corrosion on the DSC ECU connectors. edit: should probably mention e61 530xi Bibendum fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Jan 16, 2016 |
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Jan 16, 2016 00:07
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There's an sDrive28i X3 that's rear wheel drive, and an sDrive35i X5.
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Jan 16, 2016 02:44
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Seriously though the 2016 F8x sounds a lot better than 2015. Might be unique to the F80 since it got a LCI.
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Jan 16, 2016 05:57
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That might be why I don't have a problem with mine. I've never heard a 2015 in person yet.
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Jan 16, 2016 06:05
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Apex has a group buy on the 17" Arc 8's starting now: https://www.groupbuyparts.com/index.php/group-deals/apex-17-arc-8-wheels-q1-2016.html Anyone with a spec e46 or e36 might be interested. I don't have any connection to them other than wanting to get the most discount I can... I ran the 17x9et42s with 255/40 Nitto NT01 for track days last year but will need to switch to the Toyo RR 255/40-17 if I want to run in class this year.
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Jan 16, 2016 06:52
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Guinness posted:This must be a coding thing, because on my 2004 E46 the fob can roll all the windows down, but can't roll them up. Is there a way to change this mine will even open the soft top.
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Jan 16, 2016 08:17
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El Scotch posted:Question for you BMW-havers, particularly those who have owned both: how did/do you find the difference between RWD/AWD models? I would always go rwd. In any situation where you genuinely need awd traction something else will be a better choice, eg a legacy or impreza or an actual dedicated 4x4 with the ride height for serious snowfall. Unless something has changed dramatically with the latest cars, bmw stability control is way overactive and I think some people get the idea that you will die if you switch it off because of how actively it intervenes. But the multilink rear ends are very predictable and the weight is balanced enough that the 1 and 3 are very easy to drive sideways in wet or cold conditions with stability and e-diff / antiskid disabled. And the full stability system does its job well in transitional conditions where you would be worrying about black ice.
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Jan 16, 2016 11:31
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How "bad" are the 90's automatic transmissions on BMWs? Since I'm a european, I've never really driven automatics except on current Volvo rentals, and I found it to be a pretty dreadful experience (and unsophisticated). Press the gas and it takes too long for it to really engage, so it kinda feels like when you are driving with someone that is learning to drive that rides the clutch for way too long. I also had a hard time accepting the hard stop when coming to a standstill. When driving manuals I always let up the brakes just as the car stops, ensuring a stop that isn't felt. But then again I have the feeling that even old BMWs could have better automatics than most new cars. The reason I'm asking is that the bigger engines are all autos (or super rare manuals).
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Jan 16, 2016 12:49
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MrOnBicycle posted:How "bad" are the 90's automatic transmissions on BMWs? Since I'm a european, I've never really driven automatics except on current Volvo rentals, and I found it to be a pretty dreadful experience (and unsophisticated). Press the gas and it takes too long for it to really engage, so it kinda feels like when you are driving with someone that is learning to drive that rides the clutch for way too long. I also had a hard time accepting the hard stop when coming to a standstill. When driving manuals I always let up the brakes just as the car stops, ensuring a stop that isn't felt. They're just normal torque converter automatics, like the Volvo you mentioned. They also are reputed to be much less durable than the basically indestructible zf and getrag manual boxes. But that may just be people on the internet being car hypochondriacs. I can't personally think of one good reason to buy one, at least for your purposes. Any big 5, especially on the "continent", is likely to be an auto because they were pitched as executive cruisers (think of your standard large French car) rather than sports cars. I also personally wouldn't even think of a pre-E60 5 series in northern europe, because 15/20+ years of winter salt means the body will be rusting and every fastener will be seized on. I'd suggest looking for an E46 323i/325i, most of which should have been manual and which at least in the UK seem to be much more plentiful than the 3 litre version. Since this is a weekend/fun car, why not also look for an early six-cylinder Z4 (2002 onwards, so there should be cheap ones out there)? You'll probably find more manual cars.
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Jan 16, 2016 13:17
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Saga posted:They're just normal torque converter automatics, like the Volvo you mentioned. They also are reputed to be much less durable than the basically indestructible zf and getrag manual boxes. But that may just be people on the internet being car hypochondriacs. I can't personally think of one good reason to buy one, at least for your purposes. Thanks for the great advice. Yeah I've pretty much given up on the early ones, because they are hard to find even in poo poo condition (and most acutally have really slow engines), nevermind one that hasn't been driven as a daily driver in the winter and hasn't been "modded" or driven to death. There are some good looking E46's and E39's (I assume they are similar in quality?) I'll stick to manual ones. I read the M54 engine is a very good one, so 330s and 530s should be good (right?).
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Jan 16, 2016 15:06
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ZincBoy posted:Apex has a group buy on the 17" Arc 8's starting now: I bought a set of Arc 8s for my E90. They're pretty great. In fact, I'm putting run flat all seasons with OEM 17s on for winter, and they're goddamn heavy compared to the Arc 8s with non-run flats. I think it's about 8 or 9 pounds saved per corner!
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Jan 16, 2016 17:06
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Any bike rack recommendations for a 2005 330i ZHP? I used the strap-on-the-trunk style on my '83 633 but I don't like the idea of those metal hooks clamping onto my "nicer" car's trunk. My research on trailer hitches so far has revealed that they are fairly common in EU but non-existent in US.
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Jan 16, 2016 19:16
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Swapped in some poly RTABs today, noticed one of my bungs looked like this: Good thing I've had the reinforcement plates sitting in a box for 2 years.
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Jan 17, 2016 00:00
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Well, I'm now the proud owner of an '08 E90. Not my favorite color, but <50k mi and really good service history.
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Jan 17, 2016 22:36
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubGo6qLrhNk
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Jan 18, 2016 01:42
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Finally did the motor mounts, control arm, and control arm bushings in my E30 318. It's a whole different car now. I didn't expect the powerflex control arm bushings to be that big of a change, but they certainly are. The motor mounts appear to have fixed my noise / rubbing issue I was having as well. I found a new coolant leak from the throttle body heater plate, and I think there is a small fuel leak in the engine bay too - it smells like gas when idling. I think it may be the fuel lines underneath the manifold, but that could also be related to my coolant leak that is now patched with a JB weld like substance.
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Jan 18, 2016 15:16
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