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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Having had the time to watch this video, it looks quite nice. The plans are well-put-together too. I especially like the cam he added to the threaded rod so he always gets a consistent number of turns. Assembling my own version will be a project of its own, but what am I going to do, not make box joints? Here is mine: https://instagram.com/p/13zvhelSDS/ https://instagram.com/p/13tyM3FSIU/ I put a drill on the end of the rod to return the carriage.
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Jan 18, 2016 01:17
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Welp, if you want to buy an Incra iBox from me, let me know!
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Jan 18, 2016 01:36
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Could use some advice, threadfolk: I need to make a small, shallow pocket in a piece of maple that is only 1/8" thick. I don't particularly care how deep the pocket would be, or even about its shape, as it would just house a piece of metal that would eventually catch on a magnet placed elsewhere. edit: The surface area of the pocket isn't hugely important either, but if it's round I'd try to keep it at 1/8" to 1/4" in diameter. I could try sneaking up on it with small drill bits, some kind of router maneuver, chip away at it by teeny tiny chisels... I'm open to pretty much anything. Any recommendations? Trabant fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Jan 18, 2016 |
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Jan 18, 2016 05:06
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Router.
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Jan 18, 2016 06:30
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Trabant posted:Could use some advice, threadfolk: This is one of the few times when a Dremel with router base would be the correct answer.
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Jan 18, 2016 06:45
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Having had the time to watch this video, it looks quite nice. The plans are well-put-together too. I especially like the cam he added to the threaded rod so he always gets a consistent number of turns. Assembling my own version will be a project of its own, but what am I going to do, not make box joints? I made this one as well but couldn't get it to work properly because the metric sizes of my blades and threads I have. It's important for this jig to work that you be able to take advantage of the fact that your threads and blades are even fractions to each other, That's why I decided on the gear jig, gets around the whole problem of thread pitch and blade kerfs.
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Jan 18, 2016 08:26
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How bad an idea is it to buy a 4" jointer? I know they are not as good as having a 6 or 8 inch but I don't have room for a full size jointer. So it's either a 4" or none. There is a guy with a 4" Rockwell nearby that looks decent and fairly beefy.
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Jan 18, 2016 08:37
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4" at least lets you do edges for glue-ups really easily. If the price is good, I'd probably go for it.
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Jan 18, 2016 08:51
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wormil posted:How bad an idea is it to buy a 4" jointer? I know they are not as good as having a 6 or 8 inch but I don't have room for a full size jointer. So it's either a 4" or none. There is a guy with a 4" Rockwell nearby that looks decent and fairly beefy. I'd just get a glue line rip blade I think and use the table saw, given the small capacity of this machine, saves more space. I also have a 7" hand jointer that does edge jointing nicely and takes little space. Googling images for this and it seems to take as much space as my 8" emco jointer/planer.
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Jan 18, 2016 09:39
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Trabant posted:Could use some advice, threadfolk: Router plane, way more control than a powered tool when you are trying to take off that little off of a piece that thin.
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Jan 18, 2016 13:36
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wormil posted:How bad an idea is it to buy a 4" jointer? I know they are not as good as having a 6 or 8 inch but I don't have room for a full size jointer. So it's either a 4" or none. There is a guy with a 4" Rockwell nearby that looks decent and fairly beefy. Join the j/p combo machine crew
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Jan 18, 2016 13:37
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RadioPassive posted:Router. wormil posted:This is one of the few times when a Dremel with router base would be the correct answer. GEMorris posted:Router plane, way more control than a powered tool when you are trying to take off that little off of a piece that thin. Thank you all for the suggestions! One thing that came to mind is laser-cutting the pocket, but... it just screams overkill.
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Jan 18, 2016 17:46
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Trabant posted:Thank you all for the suggestions! Fwiw I own a laser cutter and would still use a router plane. If it was visible and had curved edges I might resort to the laser, but not before then.
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Jan 18, 2016 18:10
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I sharpened up my Stanley 8C after lugging it halfway across the world, and am so drat pleased with it. It leaves a better surface than my designated (albeit crappy) smooth plane, and for the first time I feel like I "get" jointing. The added weight makes it plow through the knots on some of the less than great pine I'm using at the moment, and it shoots end grain like a champ. I'm working on a Tom Fidgen style saw bench right now, and tomorrow am going to pick up a pair of thick birch planks for the top at Kvalitimber. I'm stupidly excited for them
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Jan 18, 2016 21:08
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His Divine Shadow posted:...it seems to take as much space as my 8" emco jointer/planer. My original thought was I could place it under a bench and pull it when needed but after looking it is actually quite heavy and that wouldn't be practical. I'm interested in a jointer more for flattening small stock. People have devised a lot of workarounds but really it would just be nice to have a jointer. GEMorris posted:Join the j/p combo machine crew
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Jan 18, 2016 22:36
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wormil posted:What do you have? Inca 550. If you are specifically after small stock flattening you could get a 510 (more robust planer drive mechanism) or a 550/570 (longer tables)
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Jan 19, 2016 01:31
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I'd love one of those incas myself but now that I got the emco the next step is going to be a much bigger jointer planer, preferably a 400mm / 16" model. But nothing smaller than 300mm/12". But I am not in a super hurry to buy one, need to save up some cash first and keep waiting for a good deal on a used machine. I've saved space in the shop for this future machine, whatever it'll be...
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Jan 19, 2016 09:15
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'd love one of those incas myself but now that I got the emco the next step is going to be a much bigger jointer planer, preferably a 400mm / 16" model. But nothing smaller than 300mm/12". But I am not in a super hurry to buy one, need to save up some cash first and keep waiting for a good deal on a used machine. I've saved space in the shop for this future machine, whatever it'll be... This beast just popped up on my local craigslist. Getting something like that into your shop must be fun
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Jan 19, 2016 14:26
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wormil posted:I'm interested in a jointer more for flattening small stock. People have devised a lot of workarounds but really it would just be nice to have a jointer. Having dealt with sub-scale jointing malarkey, I wouldn't go for anything smaller than 200mm. If I were you, I'd consider whether or not you want to be able to face joint stock, because if you do, 4" capacity won't cut it. I just snagged a brand-new 204mm j/p combo for 120 euro from a bankruptcy auction. Taking delivery next week. I would have liked a bigger unit, but it seemed like everyone else was hell-bent on getting a 257mm model or bigger. So I got this one just by meeting the reserve bid. All the 257mm and wider units went for amounts not much under normal retail price, and to me 8" vs 10" isn't worth over 200 euro.
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Jan 19, 2016 15:23
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bimmian posted:This beast just popped up on my local craigslist. Getting something like that into your shop must be fun Crazy expensive though. The following items can be found locally for me (links not in english): L'invincible F4L 1400€ - http://www.findit.fi/sve/search/931774.htm Steton PF 400 1600€ http://www.findit.fi/sve/search/920054.htm Only jointers though, holding out for a combo machine and also for way cheaper. Which also means something older, probably needing some repairs or service. This is a combo machine in the right size, but I can't even afford 500€ now. Just gotta save and wait until I got money + a machine that suits me. But I can play the waiting the game. That's the cost of trying to get steals. Morten RPH 330 1350€ http://www.findit.fi/sve/search/915156.htm
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Jan 19, 2016 15:46
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GEMorris posted:Inca 550. If you are specifically after small stock flattening you could get a 510 (more robust planer drive mechanism) or a 550/570 (longer tables) I bought my grizzly 8" jointer in '84 off a guy who'd gone to one of those Incas, after he decided he needed something smaller/multi-purpose. He had a room full of new tools in his apartment he'd bought with some inheritance $ I think. Had never done any woodworking before in his life.
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Jan 19, 2016 16:00
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Mr. Mambold posted:I bought my grizzly 8" jointer in '84 off a guy who'd gone to one of those Incas, after he decided he needed something smaller/multi-purpose. He had a room full of new tools in his apartment he'd bought with some inheritance $ I think. Had never done any woodworking before in his life. Inca attracts the same people that buy a cabinet full of bridge city toolworks tools. Doesn't mean they aren't good though. I'm more than pleased with my 3 wheel 20" Inca 710 bandsaw, and for my space constraints I'm happy with the j/p combo.
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Jan 19, 2016 16:23
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GEMorris posted:Inca attracts the same people that buy a cabinet full of bridge city toolworks tools. Doesn't mean they aren't good though. I'm more than pleased with my 3 wheel 20" Inca 710 bandsaw, and for my space constraints I'm happy with the j/p combo. Oh hell yeah, I was impressed with it quality-wise. It was high-dollar too.
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Jan 19, 2016 16:45
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Deedle posted:If I were you, I'd consider whether or not you want to be able to face joint stock, because if you do, 4" capacity won't cut it. As I said, a larger jointer isn't going to fit and it isn't just physical space. My shop is in an old building whose floor was never designed to support heavy cast iron machinery. I'm probably pushing it's limits already. And now that I've realized how heavy the 4" Rockwell is I probably wont be buying that either. I just passed on upgrading lathes because the new one is much heavier. The solution would be build a new shop but that isn't going to happen right now.
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Jan 19, 2016 18:08
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Really sounds like the Inca style machine is your best option then, since weight is a strong factor. One reason I won't go bigger isn't the space for the physical machine, its the space for the upgraded dust collection I would need.
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Jan 19, 2016 18:51
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It's a little more inconvenient, but if you're not planning on dealing with long stock, a thickness planer and a sled can joint the first face, and a jointing sled on the tablesaw can joint one edge. The great advantage is you get a thickness planer and a jointer in one ~80lb machine that's really easy to store.
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Jan 20, 2016 05:18
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I dread the day I have to move the tablesaw out of this house.
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Jan 20, 2016 11:36
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Sylink posted:I dread the day I have to move the tablesaw out of this house. Add two grand to the sale price, make it a feature, and leave it there, then buy a new one when you get sorted.
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Jan 20, 2016 12:33
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I've been debating moving the shop from my unheated garage to the basement so I can work easier all winter, and the table saw is one of the big deterrents. It' has a marble top so it weighs in over 450lbs. Probably have to do a full disassemble to get it around the stairs anyways though.
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Jan 20, 2016 16:18
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It sounds easier to heat the garage.
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Jan 20, 2016 18:06
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wormil posted:How bad an idea is it to buy a 4" jointer? I know they are not as good as having a 6 or 8 inch but I don't have room for a full size jointer. So it's either a 4" or none. There is a guy with a 4" Rockwell nearby that looks decent and fairly beefy. So did you back out on that? I thought you do a lot of turning, right? That would be pretty handy for truing up stock for that. I think I had one of those a long time ago. Or maybe it was a 9" table saw combo.....
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Jan 20, 2016 18:11
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Can I use a #4 Stanley as a makeshift jointer? What problems am I liable to run into? Alternately, where the gently caress can I find a cheap jointer?
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Jan 20, 2016 18:13
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You can only reliably flatten boards that are 4x longer than the sole of the plane, iirc. So for a #4 that means 40" boards or shorter.
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Jan 20, 2016 20:39
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Alternately, where the gently caress can I find a cheap jointer? I got my j/p combo machine through bva auctions from a bankruptcy. For about a quarter of the msrp.
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Jan 20, 2016 20:56
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GEMorris posted:You can only reliably flatten boards that are 4x longer than the sole of the plane, iirc. So for a #4 that means 40" boards or shorter. Do you have any tips like this that would be pretty useful in my hunt?
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Jan 20, 2016 21:03
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Mr. Mambold posted:So did you back out on that? I thought you do a lot of turning, right? That would be pretty handy for truing up stock for that. I think I had one of those a long time ago. Or maybe it was a 9" table saw combo..... I'm not ready to buy and I think the price is a tad high considering it has no stand or motor. So I'll let him sit on it and if he still has it come spring I'll think about making an offer. Or maybe not, the floor in my shop really needs beefing up.
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Jan 21, 2016 00:59
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Do you have any tips like this that would be pretty useful in my hunt? https://books.google.com/books/about/Handplane_Essentials.html?id=QR7gAhT4WmoC
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Jan 21, 2016 01:35
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:I've been debating moving the shop from my unheated garage to the basement so I can work easier all winter, and the table saw is one of the big deterrents. It' has a marble top so it weighs in over 450lbs. I did this and it was 450lbs (Grizzly hybrid saw) and it just barely fit in the back basement door (we are lucky to have a ground level exit from basement) while on the smaller pallet. Taking the wings off helps but its still heavy without them, though mine is iron/steel top. Oh and I can't add it to sale price cause we rent  As for jointer-chat, if you live in a populated area and are patient you can find good deals. I saw a nearly new 12 inch grizzly jointer for $500 (the giant gently caress off one) but it weighed 650lbs. I have an old delta version of this style 6 inch jointer and its not that big - http://www.performancetoolcenter.co...CFQ8vaQod4QALHQ Maybe you could get something like that and roll it around ?
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Jan 21, 2016 14:04
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I have been enjoying checking my fitbit after hand surfacing rough lumber. Apparently carpentry is a selectable activity profile.
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Jan 21, 2016 14:27
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Sylink posted:Oh and I can't add it to sale price cause we rent Convince your landlord to buy the saw and use it as an excuse to charge higher rent to future occupants!
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Jan 21, 2016 15:49
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