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I wound up buying the Dewalt DW7491RS jobsite saw and stand along with some high tooth count Diablo blade for finish and cross cuts. I'm thinking that I probably should also have a decent combo blade also, but I'm not really familiar with the world of table saw blades. Also, all this box joint jig chat from the last few pages really is giving me an itch to make one. Is this something achievable for a novice? I don't own a drill press or band saw, but I do have a compound miter and a cheap jig saw. Is this I could tackle?
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Jan 21, 2016 23:20
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Just got into woodworking (although my father is a pro, having built-in most of the fixtures and furniture in our house when I was growing up). I've just inherited a (nice) 10" table saw, a miter saw, a (lovely) circular saw, and a (nice) plunge/fixed router. So far ive built a workbench, a bookshelf, and a tv stand, and am pretty proud with my results. I'm looking for ideas for my next project, though, and thought y'all might help steer me in the right direction. Basically, I want a project that will help me develop my carpentry skills with the tools I have. Thoughts?
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Jan 22, 2016 04:42
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GEMorris posted:You can only reliably flatten boards that are 4x longer than the sole of the plane, iirc. So for a #4 that means 40" boards or shorter. I think Paul Sellers would disagree with this. A longer sole makes it easier, but it's not required at all.
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Jan 22, 2016 05:03
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1redflag posted:Just got into woodworking (although my father is a pro, having built-in most of the fixtures and furniture in our house when I was growing up). I've just inherited a (nice) 10" table saw, a miter saw, a (lovely) circular saw, and a (nice) plunge/fixed router. So far ive built a workbench, a bookshelf, and a tv stand, and am pretty proud with my results. I'm looking for ideas for my next project, though, and thought y'all might help steer me in the right direction. Basically, I want a project that will help me develop my carpentry skills with the tools I have. Thoughts? Someone in this thread had the good idea of incorporating a new skill into each project. Dovetails on a box, inlay on a face board, shaped legs on a table etc. It would depend on what you need to build and what would be useful around your place as to what actual project should be next though. A router table is usually pretty useful.
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Jan 22, 2016 05:32
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oxbrain posted:I think Paul Sellers would disagree with this. A longer sole makes it easier, but it's not required at all. I'd love to see the link. Sellers advocates for getting a #4 because he says everyone is going to have a powered jointer anyhow, so the smoother is the right place to start. Not saying its impossible to flatten a 6' board with a #4. I'm saying its difficult, not a task for beginners, and overall a waste of effort.
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Jan 22, 2016 05:57
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a 7 or 8 comes in real useful when you build a bench and want to flatten it, I glued mine up all in one go and used the 7 to remove the majority of material. Pretty good workout.
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Jan 22, 2016 10:42
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I'm planning on building a laminate bench top and I only have a #4 with no jointer or whatever. Is this going to be a massive problem? I watched Paul sellers videos on making a bench and he just used a #4 from memory.
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Jan 22, 2016 12:50
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It's doable with the #4, but if at all possible, see if you can snag an inexpensive #5, the extra length will reduce your frustration immensely. Sellers is right in that you can survive without a jointer plane, but he's some sort of xylomancer. I'm basically a high-functioning moron and the addition of a #8 has been a huge assist in terms of accuracy and speed. Plus it make stronk.
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Jan 22, 2016 14:11
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I have been woodworking for about 4 year now. For the first 3 1/2 years I jointed everything by hand with a plane. Recently I bought a Delta jointer. My advise is to use a powered jointer and save yourself tons of time.
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Jan 22, 2016 14:34
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Can I use a #4 Stanley as a makeshift jointer? What problems am I liable to run into? Echoing other comments, it isn't a good idea unless you are rather experienced with it. In my experience (no powered jointer here), the main problem you'll face is running out of stock before you actually get it flat, so now your dimensions are off and you still don't have a flat surface. Taking that into account, what happens when you have multiple pieces to flatten that need to end up the same size? If you're going to try, just leave yourself as much wiggle room as you can. Probably better off hacking together a jointing jig for your tablesaw if you have one.
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Jan 22, 2016 14:44
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Speaking of tablesaws, if anyone near southern michigan / nw ohio is looking for something, this unisaw just got posted, looks quite clean- http://toledo.craigslist.org/tls/5412229477.html
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Jan 22, 2016 14:47
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oxbrain posted:I think Paul Sellers would disagree with this. A longer sole makes it easier, but it's not required at all. I'm going to be trying to join some short boards to make a box. I've sharpened my lovely harbor freight plane #33 flat, and will be making it as sharp as possible, hoping this can work.
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Jan 22, 2016 15:43
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bimmian posted:Speaking of tablesaws, if anyone near southern michigan / nw ohio is looking for something, this unisaw just got posted, looks quite clean- http://toledo.craigslist.org/tls/5412229477.html Thassa steel and worth an all-day drive.
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Jan 22, 2016 16:14
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Crossposting from the Tools thread:Target Practice posted:Thanks to Craigslist and $20, I've now go this sitting in our shop: I don't need it to look pretty, but I am going to clean it up, put nice new wood on it, probably blast and paint the base. Any thoughts, ideas, or suggestions?
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Jan 22, 2016 21:15
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Make the base nice and heavy. Mass is good on a lathe. If you don't have a drill press you might want to make provision for it to be turned vertically as well. There is a dude on youtube with a couple good videos about his 10ER
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Jan 23, 2016 00:48
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1redflag posted:Just got into woodworking (although my father is a pro, having built-in most of the fixtures and furniture in our house when I was growing up). I've just inherited a (nice) 10" table saw, a miter saw, a (lovely) circular saw, and a (nice) plunge/fixed router. So far ive built a workbench, a bookshelf, and a tv stand, and am pretty proud with my results. I'm looking for ideas for my next project, though, and thought y'all might help steer me in the right direction. Basically, I want a project that will help me develop my carpentry skills with the tools I have. Thoughts? Think about what you want to build more than the skill, then incorporate. I found just trying to do random hard poo poo was difficult versus some furniture or gift I want to make then trying to replicate it.
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Jan 23, 2016 01:26
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I had the bright idea to connect a drum sander attachment to my drill press, but I just read somewhere about how "side loads" will beat the poo poo out of the bearings and ruin them. True?
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Jan 23, 2016 07:48
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Something's happened to my table saw blade. I was getting wavy and out of square cuts. I've squared the sliding table so I can't visually see any difference, even used a micrometer to get it dead on. The fence has always been fine and seems fine still. But cuts are out of square, I assume something's happened to the blade but what, and is it fixable?
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Jan 23, 2016 15:52
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jackpot posted:I had the bright idea to connect a drum sander attachment to my drill press, but I just read somewhere about how "side loads" will beat the poo poo out of the bearings and ruin them. True? Yes that can certainly happen, pretty sure that's the main reason I need to replace the bearings on mine. The good kits have a plate that that connects the sanding drum to the table, removing the lateral load on the spindle. You can use it without, just don't use much pressure.
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Jan 23, 2016 16:35
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His Divine Shadow posted:Something's happened to my table saw blade. I was getting wavy and out of square cuts. I've squared the sliding table so I can't visually see any difference, even used a micrometer to get it dead on. The fence has always been fine and seems fine still. But cuts are out of square, I assume something's happened to the blade but what, and is it fixable? To me it sounds like the arbor itself has play in it, allowing the blade to come out of alignment during a cut.
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Jan 23, 2016 17:36
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That doesn't happen overnight after years of working fine.
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Jan 23, 2016 17:40
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How long of a cut were you getting wavyness in? Rip cuts? Out of square just on crosscuts with the sliding table?
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Jan 23, 2016 17:52
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Closet shelves turned out really well. Existing walls were not as out of square as a thought. Next up is learning to solder and installing the LED lights under each shelf.
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Jan 23, 2016 17:54
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Hypnolobster posted:How long of a cut were you getting wavyness in? Rip cuts? Out of square just on crosscuts with the sliding table? Cross cuts, rip cuts, cuts made using the fence in the conventional way. Tried all possible combinations using a piece with a jointed face. I removed the blade and have cleaned it now, it was somewhat gunky. Not much can be done about it I guess, just wondered if it was something that happened. Shame on an otherwise good 12" blade. It was a cheap one though, less than 30 euros. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Jan 23, 2016 |
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Jan 23, 2016 18:52
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Granite Octopus posted:I'm planning on building a laminate bench top and I only have a #4 with no jointer or whatever. Is this going to be a massive problem? I watched Paul sellers videos on making a bench and he just used a #4 from memory. Go for it. I've flattened a number of tables, including a dining table, and a workbench with a #4. It really isn't a big deal. First go across the grain to get it flat then with the grain to smooth. I had no experience with a hand plane before doing my first table, and it wasn't that good of a bench plane either. His Divine Shadow posted:Something's happened to my table saw blade. I contacted Freud about my rip blade because it was doing something similar, mine is oscillating, and they suggested it could have lost tension. Later it started happening with other blades so it is something in the saw, I still haven't figured it out. But I mention it because it could be your blade has lost tension.
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Jan 23, 2016 22:28
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Mental note: I can't freehand drill a straight hole through 1.5" of wood. So much for that attempt at building the box joint jig, and I'm off to buy a drill guide... (The jig has a 1.5"x1.5" block that transfers the rotational motion of the threaded rod into linear motion of the workpiece; if that hole isn't straight then I very much doubt the jig will work properly)
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Jan 24, 2016 00:50
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His Divine Shadow posted:Cross cuts, rip cuts, cuts made using the fence in the conventional way. Tried all possible combinations using a piece with a jointed face. I removed the blade and have cleaned it now, it was somewhat gunky. Not much can be done about it I guess, just wondered if it was something that happened. Shame on an otherwise good 12" blade. It was a cheap one though, less than 30 euros. If the cut is just crooked, it can't be the blade itself, that would just make the kerf wider, and/or ragged. The wave could only be the blade if you're throwing fastballs through the saw. Otherwise it's just spinning too fast. It could be the arbor if the arbor is moving in the midst of a cut. It could also be one of the parts that's moving the wood past the blade: the sliding table, the cross cut fence, the board slipping, etc, but you already said you checked those. So check the play in the arbor bearings.
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Jan 24, 2016 05:05
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His Divine Shadow posted:Something's happened to my table saw blade. I was getting wavy and out of square cuts. I've squared the sliding table so I can't visually see any difference, even used a micrometer to get it dead on. The fence has always been fine and seems fine still. But cuts are out of square, I assume something's happened to the blade but what, and is it fixable? Start from scratch on setting up your tablesaw until you find what happened. Using precision measuring tools: make sure the blade is 90* to the table, make sure the front of the blade is the same distance from your fence as the back of your blade. Make sure that rotating the blade doesn't make a difference. Ensure the blade is tightened properly and your arbor nut (along with any spacers) isn't loose or stripped somehow. If you're using a sled or miter do the config on that and make sure that's all square. Make sure the table saw is level... if that all shows nothing stand a nickle on the table (assuming it's a heavy table saw and not a cheap one) turn it on and see if there's excessive vibration. poo poo, it might even be something as stupid as your blade having some screwed up cutting surfaces. But do what One Legged Ninja said too. Something there is hosed proper, you just haven't found it yet. Now, onto a question I have about wood turning. I just got a reasonable lathe for the first time and I'm making bowls because why the hell not. Doing relatively good but I'm having problems where end grain ends up with seemingly porous sections no matter what I seem to do. I even tried removing large portions with some 60 grit sand paper and it's still the same so I'm guessing that's just the wood grain. Is there anyway to deal with that? Because everything feels smooth/great on the bowls but then there seems to always be two sections on opposite ends of the piece that have this issue. FYI: right now I'm generally working through some dry cherry wood I had around.
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Jan 24, 2016 06:36
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Anubis posted:...seems to always be two sections on opposite ends of the piece that have this issue. I find it less of a problem in green lumber but the only thing you can do is sharpen your tools and take a finer cut.
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Jan 24, 2016 07:36
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Pretty sure you guys are exaggerating the issue, it's just a cheap blade that got hosed. Probably manhandled it or struck the blade sideways with something heavy like my new box joint jig. Which lead me to gently caress with the settings on the table. My dial indicator is hosed too, so I reset the sliding table using just my eyes and a ruler and at least that cuts square now. Will have to look at the fence again too. The arbor setup is rock solid. I had a lot of it apart to check it out last night. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Jan 24, 2016 |
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Jan 24, 2016 09:55
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Anubis posted:... hard, dry wood just needs really sharp tools and figuring out the proper cut angle. If it's just certain sections, maybe the grain is a little wild there? Try hitting it in reverse instead.
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Jan 24, 2016 16:59
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edit; gone.
wormil fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Jan 25, 2016 |
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Jan 25, 2016 06:31
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Speaking about planes, check out the last 5 mins of this video (also check out the rest, amazing woodworks on display) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwcJoCT7IXU
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Jan 25, 2016 11:08
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wormil posted:Anyone need a crazy good deal on a bs blade? $3.26 Who would buy used bandsaw blades?
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Jan 25, 2016 13:51
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I found a listing for an old drill press asking people to bid on it, it mentions that it's functional, but lacking some of the safety features required for modern professional use. http://www.findit.fi/sve/search/942242.htm I know nothing of these things, and am considering throwing 50 Euros at it. Does it require some sort of voodoo power souce? Will this thing kill me messily? I've been longing for a drill press, but enjoy having all my fingers.
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Jan 25, 2016 13:57
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Posted this in tools thread figured it'd get more traction here though. If there's a solid recommendation that's not $600 that's fine too but I'd rather not get a saw that's going to take me hours to build stuff with it. If I were to get a good saw that's less $$ that frees up funds for other toys like a dovetail jig for my router.. oh god how I want a dovetail jig. My woodworking plans for summer/spring (God knows if I'll get all of this done but these are my goals for the year) 1. Endgrain cutting boards to be given away next year for xmas 2. Various wooden things for kids like one of these bad boys https://www.etsy.com/listing/208414534/kids-play-kitchen-unfinished-or-finished?ref=market 3. Shelving for garage & basement (Probably will end up doing with a skill saw) 4. Cedar box 5. Doors for our built in shelving unit (Something like this http://www.barkerdoor.com/Shaker-Cabinet-Doors-p/shaker-ip-door.htm) I really like this saw. http://m.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-13-Amp-...le-Saw/50081568 Q1: Is it being replaced or has it been by something else? It seems like it's not in stock or in 1 or 2s around my area. I'm looking to purchase in spring/ summer since I"ve got no real use for it now, so if it's not going to be around I may not be interested. Q2: any reason not to buy it: Overpriced piece of junk, delta no longer what it use to be, can get x saw which is same thing for $100 less? It hits about everything that I think is sexy in a saw. 1. Small storage space when not in use (garage is my workshop I'd like to fit cars there) 2. Cast iron work surface, main surface is not sheet metal and seems a decent size 3. T-square fence, don't need to measure each side of the fence. 4. Safe, my current saw is hitting the trash it's missing the guard/rivving knife I used it once and shut it off to never use again. It's my grandfather's 25+ year old Rockwell with stamped wings, and belt driven, its quite long in the tooth. It even has an on off button that I can reach! I'm a weekend woodworker using my garage as my shop so I put my tools in a corner so I can park in there still (old craftsman band saw, router table, sander chop saw etc.) I've only got 120v in the garage with no desire to put in a 220 at this time, I'd really want to wait to upgrade my electrical box first.
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Jan 25, 2016 14:29
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Free Market Mambo posted:I found a listing for an old drill press asking people to bid on it, it mentions that it's functional, but lacking some of the safety features required for modern professional use. Google translate says: The drill works, but the protection required by today's worker is taken, therefore, it must not be used in proffesional use. 28 pieces of drills included. i have no idea what was removed, but it looks like a plain vanilla Pelar borrmaskin to me. Plus 28 bits? Drill press is pretty safe tool, just clamp a fence to the table and go to town.
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Jan 25, 2016 15:19
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There's often a clear plastic guard that goes down over the bit a ways to keep chips and such from flying off, that'd be my first guess.
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Jan 25, 2016 15:48
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wormil posted:Anyone need a crazy good deal on a bs blade? $3.26 Thanks for the pointer; I've purchased it. GEMorris posted:Who would buy used bandsaw blades? For future reference, the "Amazon Warehouse Deals" vendor sells the items that Amazon needs to take out of their packaging for purposes of photography, items whose packaging got damaged during shipping, and the like. They do also sell used items as well, but there's decent odds that this blade hasn't been used at all. For ~$3 I'm not exactly gambling much.
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Jan 25, 2016 15:48
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Thanks for the pointer; I've purchased it. yeah warehouse deals are usually returns "guy opened it and it was the wrong size for his saw" or opened for picture, one of the picker robots crushed the packaging etc. Buy used from other sellers is used.. wh deals are usually new with packaging issues or /refurbished things.. in the case of a blade I'd assume it's not refurb.
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Jan 25, 2016 16:02
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