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What piece of hardware do I need for this in the center? It just needs to spin freely. Can I use any old long bolt for this?
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Jan 21, 2016 04:43
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NancyPants posted:What piece of hardware do I need for this in the center? It just needs to spin freely. Can I use any old long bolt for this? Yeah, assuming the wood stand at the bottom is pine or something equally soft, a regular bolt will make its own threads in a hole drilled just slightly smaller than its diameter.
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Jan 21, 2016 05:19
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Honestly, that's probably a carriage bolt up from the bottom, with an acorn nut on top. Cut the carriage bolt so that the acorn nut bottoms out before it's too tight on the wood for it to spin.
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Jan 21, 2016 06:06
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Honestly, that's probably a carriage bolt up from the bottom, with an acorn nut on top. Haha thanks, the acorn nut was the only part I could already identify. Would a large nut suffice for a bushing between the spinning part and base or is there something better suited to that?
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Jan 21, 2016 06:32
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NancyPants posted:Haha thanks, the acorn nut was the only part I could already identify. Would a large nut suffice for a bushing between the spinning part and base or is there something better suited to that? Two washers with grease in between. If you want to go crazy, a skateboard bearing.
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Jan 21, 2016 12:23
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OSU_Matthew posted:I would honestly just use a dab of regular old grease--that'll last a for quite awhile. White lithium grease is another good option if you want something tacky that'll stick around and lubricate a joint. If you want something thinner, like aerosol thin, CLP or silicone spray sticks pretty well and will last awhile. CLP does a good job inhibiting rust on my guns while they sit on the safe. If you want something natural, Lanolin is derived from sheep and it makes a good rust inhibitor. I'll check out those suggestions. I was thinking some sort of lubricant would probably work. I think I'm ok weight wise. Currently there's a builder grade early 2000s chandelier with a giant 3' glass half bowl in the room, but I'm going to see how the ceiling box is attached once I take it down.
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Jan 21, 2016 15:33
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kid sinister posted:So if you did get a full motion mount, then why stick with the TV cover? We didn't buy it, it was left over from the previous owners and my fiance likes the look of it. She also likes the ability to hide the TV when not in use. I wanted full-motion so I could watch it sitting at the table, sitting at the kitchen island, or when cooking from the grill outside. Had I gone with a bigger TV and needed to center the mount, I would have had to remove some drywall, install a brace of some kind and then attach the mount to that. The space inside the cabinet isn't thick enough to support another piece of wood and the mount/TV and still be able to close. It's fine, though. My house is a bit weird, I guess. I have two outside spigots, one in the back that would be able floor level inside (my backyard has a step-down deck), one inside about 2 feet off the ground by the garage. Inside, my base level is all open, my second floor is mostly open except for what I call the first attic, essentially a hobbit door that opens up into the attic space that's above the kitchen, master bath and closet, and houses the hot water tank. There's a pull-down ladder in the upstairs hallway that leads to the second, traditional attic, where the two furnaces are. I can follow pipes from the floor of the first attic up into the second attic, though I suspect those are to carry hot water to the upstairs bathrooms.
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Jan 21, 2016 19:21
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couldcareless posted:I believe some thermostats have a "buffer" of sorts. The Nest flat out states it has one of +/- 3 degrees and my Honeywell has a +/- 1. I'm sure this is done for some purpose, likely to prevent the hvac from constantly kicking on at the slightest flicker of temp change. To add to this, I bought a honeywell programmable thermostat a few years ago and they called this the "Swing" setting, and it was customizable between +-1 up to +-3 degrees from the actual setting, depending on how often you want everything to kick on, and how precise you want temps to be. A higher setting allows for greater temperature variables.
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Jan 22, 2016 17:44
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I want to replace an outlet. The old outlet has labels of colors on the terminals, but the current wires don't match those colors. 1 red wire goes to the terminal labeled BLACK, two green wires go to a terminal labeled WHITE, and a white wire goes to an unlabeled terminal. My new outlet has terminals labelled neutral, live, and ground. Which wires go where? 
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Jan 22, 2016 22:43
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Red goes to "live", White goes to "neutral", and the two greens get wire nutted to a pig tail that gets connected to "ground".
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Jan 23, 2016 00:12
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Zhentar posted:Red goes to "live", White goes to "neutral", and the two greens get wire nutted to a pig tail that gets connected to "ground". That worked, thanks. How about this one? There are 4 wires, a red one into the BLACK terminal, a black one into an unlabeled terminal, a white one into another unlabeled terminal, and a bare copper wire off to the side. 
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Jan 23, 2016 00:58
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dokmo posted:That worked, thanks. How about this one? There are 4 wires, a red one into the BLACK terminal, a black one into an unlabeled terminal, a white one into another unlabeled terminal, and a bare copper wire off to the side. Typically that setup is done to have one outlet of the duplex always on and the other one is switched. Look at the side of the old outlet. Is there a tab missing that previously connected the plates under the screws on the black and red side? Compare them to the terminals on the other side to see what the tab looks like. If that is the case, then do the same to your new outlet. Get a pair of pliers and pry off that tab on the hot/black side of your new outlet. Connect the black wire to the outlet for the one you want always on (usually bottom), red to the outlet you want switched on (usually top), white to neutral, green or bare to the ground terminal. Also, if you're having trouble identifying which wires go to which terminals, then use the prong holes on the front instead. The round slot is the ground. It's connected to the frame of the outlet, including the green screw. It gets the green or bare wire. The wider slot is for the neutral. The terminal on that side gets the white wire. The smaller slot is for the hot wire. That one gets any other color of wire, but in residential wiring, most commonly black or red. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Jan 23, 2016 |
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Jan 23, 2016 02:17
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I've got an oil furnace and radiators. The furnace is in my laundry room / workshop, so I'm familiar with all its noises. Usually what happens is the furnace, when tripped by the thermostat, will simply roar into life, run for 8-10 minutes or so, then quit for a while. Makes a sound like "WHUUMF" when it fires followed by the steady quiet roar of a big fire. But last night when I was in the room I noticed it would make its usual sound (WHUUMF) followed by a sort of coughing. The steady roar of the fire that usually follows sounded more like an idling car, the throaty whub-whub-whub of a V8. It would cough like this for a few seconds, then settle out into its usual sound. I didn't like the coughing but didn't have any ideas what to do about it. Fast forward to 5am, my wife wakes me up and says "the heat's off, it's 61 in the house." I should mention we're in Virginia, in the middle of a decent-sized snowstorm. I go to the furnace, the shutoff light is on. All I know about the shutoff light is that it means the radiator's stopped trying to fire on its own. I bleed the furnace (the only radiator maintenance I know how to do), restart, and all is well. MY QUESTION, though, is about that coughing, not-quite-firing sound that precipitated the radiator shutting itself down. That worries me - any ideas?
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Jan 23, 2016 16:25
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dokmo posted:That worked, thanks. How about this one? There are 4 wires, a red one into the BLACK terminal, a black one into an unlabeled terminal, a white one into another unlabeled terminal, and a bare copper wire off to the side. Here's another hint: look at the face of the receptacle, where the plug goes. The narrower of the two slots is always 'hot.' Black/red ALWAYS goes to that side. White (common) goes to the other (wider slot) side. Ground (green or bare copper, or, if you are unfortunate, aluminum) is always off by itself at the bottom, sulking. On a new receptacle, the pair of screws on each side are joined by a tab so one wire will energize both receptacles. The tab can be snapped off so that, as noted above, you can run one receptacle on a switch circuit & leave the other constant hot.
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Jan 23, 2016 16:54
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Another question: it's taking forever to heat the house back up (from 60 to 65 over 5 hours), because the furnace keeps quitting for a while before coming back on. Would it have some kind of shutoff timer that keeps it from running for too long at a time?
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Jan 23, 2016 17:17
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I want to build a dog run in the side yard. Right now it's just weeds. I was thinking of putting down pea gravel so that the dog doesn't get muddy in wet weather. Do I need to put a base of drain rock down, or any fabrics? Should I take out an inch or so of soil so I don't build up the area too much?
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Jan 23, 2016 18:29
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jackpot posted:Another question: it's taking forever to heat the house back up (from 60 to 65 over 5 hours), because the furnace keeps quitting for a while before coming back on. Would it have some kind of shutoff timer that keeps it from running for too long at a time? It's called a "high limit switch", and it's a safety feature to prevent your broken furnace from destroying itself and burning your house down or killing you all with carbon monoxide poisoning. (The switch itself can get dirty or break, but that doesn't sound like what's going on here)
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Jan 23, 2016 18:56
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jackpot posted:I've got an oil furnace and radiators. The furnace is in my laundry room / workshop, so I'm familiar with all its noises. Usually what happens is the furnace, when tripped by the thermostat, will simply roar into life, run for 8-10 minutes or so, then quit for a while. Makes a sound like "WHUUMF" when it fires followed by the steady quiet roar of a big fire. But last night when I was in the room I noticed it would make its usual sound (WHUUMF) followed by a sort of coughing. The steady roar of the fire that usually follows sounded more like an idling car, the throaty whub-whub-whub of a V8. It would cough like this for a few seconds, then settle out into its usual sound. I didn't like the coughing but didn't have any ideas what to do about it. Hi fellow Va snowgoon. Does your furnace draw air from outside? It may have an intake full of snow. Or a blocked exhaust on your roof.
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Jan 23, 2016 20:17
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jackpot posted:I've got an oil furnace and radiators. The furnace is in my laundry room / workshop, so I'm familiar with all its noises. Usually what happens is the furnace, when tripped by the thermostat, will simply roar into life, run for 8-10 minutes or so, then quit for a while. Makes a sound like "WHUUMF" when it fires followed by the steady quiet roar of a big fire. But last night when I was in the room I noticed it would make its usual sound (WHUUMF) followed by a sort of coughing. The steady roar of the fire that usually follows sounded more like an idling car, the throaty whub-whub-whub of a V8. It would cough like this for a few seconds, then settle out into its usual sound. I didn't like the coughing but didn't have any ideas what to do about it. I could be starved for fuel. For the record, is it out of oil?
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Jan 23, 2016 20:36
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jackpot posted:I've got an oil furnace and radiators. The furnace is in my laundry room / workshop, so I'm familiar with all its noises. Usually what happens is the furnace, when tripped by the thermostat, will simply roar into life, run for 8-10 minutes or so, then quit for a while. Makes a sound like "WHUUMF" when it fires followed by the steady quiet roar of a big fire. But last night when I was in the room I noticed it would make its usual sound (WHUUMF) followed by a sort of coughing. The steady roar of the fire that usually follows sounded more like an idling car, the throaty whub-whub-whub of a V8. It would cough like this for a few seconds, then settle out into its usual sound. I didn't like the coughing but didn't have any ideas what to do about it. You haven't had your furnace serviced recently and it likely needs one or more of the following: igniters/igniter positioning, nozzle, fuel filter. What king of gun is on it? Beckett or something else? It may be possible to walk you through some manner of temporary repair if you're handy and have one of a small list of causes. It's also worth looking at your chimney and smoke pipe to make sure it's not shitted up. If it is, you need to kill the heater NOW before it kills you and your family.
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Jan 23, 2016 21:57
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What Motronic said plus if you haven't had it cleaned and tuned up recently it could be plugged up with soot.
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Jan 24, 2016 02:53
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There's a couple small gaps between the floorboards and the baseboards in my room. Any reason I shouldn't just caulk them up?
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Jan 24, 2016 03:22
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That's a hell of a lot of replies, I really appreciate it. The furnace was serviced in November, and there's oil in the tank. There was a ton of snow on the roof by the exhaust, that I knocked off, and I think that could've been part of the problem. I'm gonna have someone come look at it all as soon as the roads clear. And I know it's no solution, but I've also got three CO2 detectors throughout the house. Far from perfect, but better than nothing.
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Jan 24, 2016 08:18
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Alabaster White posted:There's a couple small gaps between the floorboards and the baseboards in my room. Any reason I shouldn't just caulk them up? As long as you don't use a caulk that dries hard, you should be okay. Wood floors expand and contract with the seasons. In fact, there is gap between the floorboards and the wall to account for that expansion. The job of the baseboard is to cover that gap. Basically, don't use a caulk that the floorboards would end up cracking in time. Edit: Now that I think about it, that gap you want to fill might be seasonal as well. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Jan 24, 2016 |
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Jan 24, 2016 19:06
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Alabaster White posted:There's a couple small gaps between the floorboards and the baseboards in my room. Any reason I shouldn't just caulk them up? Usually that gap is covered by the baseboard trim, it's not something that you should caulk. Someone else already mentioned it, but that's to allow the floors to expand/contract and move around with temperature and moisture fluctuations, and caulking might interfere with that. Depending on your motivation/severity of the gap, the "fix" might be to get thicker baseboards to cover the gap without having to replace the floorboards. A picture might help too, so we can see if it's a normal gap or something else you can do to fix it.
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Jan 24, 2016 19:36
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OSU_Matthew posted:something else you can do to fix it. Quarter round. The answer is always quarter round.
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Jan 24, 2016 22:13
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Motronic posted:Quarter round. The answer is always quarter round. That's certainly the mantra of the person who owned my house before me. It is everywhere. Please keep your quarter round habit confined to baseboards
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Jan 24, 2016 23:41
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And for the love of god don't use PVC quarter round. That stuff is awful and awful to paint. Three coats of 1-2-3 primer and I was able to.
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Jan 24, 2016 23:50
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minivanmegafun posted:And for the love of god don't use PVC quarter round. That stuff is awful and awful to paint. Three coats of 1-2-3 primer and I was able to. For a moment there I was imagining someone taking a PVC pipe and ripping it into quarters to use as trim.
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Jan 25, 2016 00:44
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Is there a landscaping thread? Couldn't find one... Along the side of my house there's about 5-6' between the house and the fence. That area is currently just pine needles, which I hate. I have to walk back there to get to the gate to take out the garbage, and I hate it. I'd like to put in a gravel path with flat stones to step on, leading up to where the garbage can is. My questions: 1) how far from the house slab should I put in the path? What should go in between? 2) Any ideas on something to put the garbage can on? It needs to be flat so that the gate can open and the garbage can roll out to the driveway.
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Jan 25, 2016 01:18
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I've got a bump-out garden window in my kitchen, and with the cold and damp weather we get this time of year it's developing quite the mold issue. There are 12x12 ceramic tiles on the base of it (pretty sure extras from when the kitchen floor was tiled--like that when we bought the house), and they've all got a lot of mold growing on them. The metal trim on the far side of the window is the same. This happened last year as well, so I took all the tiles out, soaked them in a bleach solution (also wiped down the window surfaces with the same) and gave everything a healthy dose of this stuff. It seemed to work for a while, though the weather may just have been less conducive to mold growth. Is there something more effective or permanent I can try? Any kind of anti-mildew matting I can lay down instead of the tiles? I assume the tiles will have mold spores deep within forever, so they're getting trashed regardless.
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Jan 25, 2016 20:14
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It will constantly come back until you fix the moisture problem. What's going on, condensation on the window or what?
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Jan 25, 2016 20:17
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Probably condensation on the tile/base itself. It doesn't look like most garden windows have any insulation in the base at all, or if they do, it's too thin to do anything.
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Jan 25, 2016 21:24
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Those things are so exposed that you will always get condensation in the winter from the temperature differential. Every one I've ever seen is made of metal and single pane glass, so the heat exchange is pretty extreme and there really isn't anywhere to insulate. Frankly your best option is to get rid of it. Short of that, you need to wipe it down every day or two at the most.
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Jan 25, 2016 21:34
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Yeah, it's condensation. There are blinds in front of it that are closed most of the time as well, which I'm sure isn't helping with air circulation.
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Jan 26, 2016 00:09
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Does anyone know what this thing is called or where I can get another thing like it? Its just a solid piece of metal, with two perpendicular holes through it, one of the holes is threaded. Its part of a drafting table I've had for years, it holds up the table top so it can be at an angle. There are two of them, and I recently moved and the movers apparently lost one when they disassembled it I guess. I really want to get the table back up and running but the hardware store in town was bewildered by the thing. Its entirely possible its a custom machined piece for the table so I might have to just come up with other way to get it set up again but I thought I would ask here first.
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Jan 26, 2016 21:24
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A machinist should be able to make a replacement for you for $50 or so. I'm a hobby machinist; I'd be willing to make an amateurish effort for the cost of a hunk of steel/aluminum, if you shipped me the original part.
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Jan 26, 2016 21:51
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FishBulb posted:Does anyone know what this thing is called or where I can get another thing like it? Yep, that's custom. That looks similar to a barrel nut, except for the direction of the threads. You could make something similar from a round coupling nut and a drill press maybe.
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Jan 27, 2016 00:36
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I leaned on the wall of my shower and this happened: In 9 months this house will be torn down. What's the most sensible thing to do?
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Jan 27, 2016 13:09
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Get a painter's plastic dropcloth/package of trash bags (if the former, cut it into suitably-sized rectangles) and a roll of duct tape, replace as necessary?
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Jan 27, 2016 13:27
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Bad Angus! Bad!