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Yeah I like those. They are probably cheaper from amazon or rock auto than I can get them, but with a zip code I'm willing to check. Part numbers are 309.09290 or 309.15390 front (the second number is slightly different and newer, but either will fit) 309.11140 rear e-looks like about $108 jamal fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Jan 28, 2016 |
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Jan 28, 2016 02:28
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jamal posted:There are a few decent options you assuming it's an 02-07 sedan. After having some issues and going away for awhile, Tokico has two struts available- HP blues and d-specs, and then there are konis and the kyb agx. I think agx or blues would be the best value at under $150 a piece. d-specs are like $900 a set. I can get you more accurate numbers if you want.
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Jan 28, 2016 05:00
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I've heard Stoptech is very good. I've also heard things about EBC's brakepad system. I haven't decided which ones I'll go with when the OEM ones are gone.
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Jan 28, 2016 06:18
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Only pads I've rocked out side of OEM are the HP+ and HPS. They both sucked for differing reasons. Some one locally has a turboxs cat back and a 3in catted down pipe for a song. I don't need the down pipe so I'd probably sell it. Any one have a turboXS cat back or have experience with one to know how bad it drones? Sadi fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Jan 28, 2016 |
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Jan 28, 2016 18:53
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Both those pads were good when they came out, but as far as I know it's still the original compound and there is much better stuff now. People still use them, probably for the same reason hawk blues are still popular, even though hawk has some way better race compounds now. And checking the site, hawk does have new street performance pads out. http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance-street/pads I'm sure they work just fine.
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Jan 28, 2016 19:09
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Saabaru is so much better now with Koni inserts and the RCE springs/Whiteline tops provided by Jamal. I can throw the car around a lot more confidently and aggressively. Woohoo!
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Jan 29, 2016 09:25
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So mostly I do rotary stuff, but I do have a bugeye WRX for my boring daily driver. I've got a 5 speed DCCD center coming in the mail tonight, anyone want pictures of it from me going through it to check it out? It's going to be going in when I do a trans swap (with a V6 STI 5-speed) for preventative maintenance.
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Jan 29, 2016 15:07
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I'd be interested! How do those trans swaps compare to a 6 speed? I'd like a more stout drive line for a budget price. (Having an 04 wrx for daily/rallycross duty)
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Jan 29, 2016 17:19
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Well, it's cheaper - I got the basic trans for like, $650, shipped, and a Forester XT rear diff for another hundred or so. Because of the 4.44 final drive, for a given torque at the wheels, forces at the gears should be less too. Ultimately though, I'm not expecting miracles - my final end upgrade target (after a built motor) is only about 300wtq, and I don't/won't launch so it should be fine, I hope.
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Jan 29, 2016 17:30
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Hmm. Does anyone know how the poo poo I get pins out of the ECU harness connectors on this thing? 2001 Legacy B4 TT if you forgot. 5-plug non-DBW ECU.  The googling I've done suggests there's some sort of "master lock" i have to depress, and then a sewing needle in above each pin to release it? There's two pairs of pins I have to swap on connector B134 to make the JDM ECU I have as a temporary replacement while the ADM one is being modified; but I can't for the life of me get them out (and I don't want to risk damaging the wires/pins). I'll probably just leave it brainless.
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Jan 30, 2016 00:10
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Scale of 1 to 10 how hard is it to replace the o2 sensors on a 05 legacy gt. Reason I ask is it rains all the time here and I live on a hell of a hill
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Jan 30, 2016 03:48
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Melthir posted:Scale of 1 to 10 how hard is it to replace the o2 sensors on a 05 legacy gt. Upstream or downstream?
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Jan 30, 2016 04:34
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stevobob posted:I did up a post in this thread a while back detailing how I fixed this noise in my 04 Impreza, the culprit is worn roller bearings in the center differential. They receive insufficient lubrication from factory design. I'll try to link it here but I'm on the Awful mobile app and I dunno if I can link posts. Oh lord, so that is what that whine is!! I've got an 2007 Forester with the same noise. I have 0 interest in pulling the trans apart, so I guess I should start setting aside some 
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Jan 30, 2016 04:58
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Not hard, but are you sure the sensor is the problem? does it still have the stock catted up-pipe?blk posted:Saabaru is so much better now with Koni inserts and the RCE springs/Whiteline tops provided by Jamal. I can throw the car around a lot more confidently and aggressively. Woohoo! Now you need an alk and swaybars and a downpipe and tune and some other stuff before you aren't allowed to spend any more money on cars. So the ride is good? I was a little worried. jamal fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Jan 30, 2016 |
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Jan 30, 2016 05:04
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literally a fish posted:Upstream or downstream? No idea, the torque ap just said o2 sensor. Figured I'd just change them both and make the wife happy. But if I'm in for a multiple hour job I'll just take it to the mechanic. It's miserable outside and not expected to get better.
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Jan 30, 2016 05:59
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Melthir posted:No idea, the torque ap just said o2 sensor. Figured I'd just change them both and make the wife happy. But if I'm in for a multiple hour job I'll just take it to the mechanic. It's miserable outside and not expected to get better. Tourque will give you a message at the end. Something like Bank 1 Sensor 1 or Bank 2 Sensor 1.
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Jan 30, 2016 13:53
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HO2s heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 2 The exaust also smokes gray at idle. I'm assuming these two things are related Melthir fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Jan 30, 2016 |
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Jan 30, 2016 19:16
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Melthir posted:HO2s heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 2 That's the rear O2 sensor. You can do that yourself, But it can get rusted on there pretty good. If you choose to tackle it yourself, start soaking it with PB blaster now. Sometimes I heat them up with a Mapp gas torch too. I don't think this sensor would impact smoking at idle, but I could be wrong.
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Jan 30, 2016 21:34
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Melthir posted:HO2s heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 2 Likely related, but not in the way you think. That's the rear (post-cat) sensor, which is pretty easy to find and replace as daslog said, but if you're smoking out the exhaust that smoke could actually be what killed the sensor  It could also just be covered in carbon, especially if the car is only really used for short hops and never properly warms up (like mum's mini, which is a 2005 that has 35k miles on it and burns through post-cat O2 sensors like they're going out of style) but yeah. Spray they everloving gently caress out of it with PB, go buy a cheap 21mm ring spanner and grinder a notch into it (this works better than most crowfoot O2 sensor sockets, I find) and pop it out. Take a pic of sensor and post pic here for more info. I'd recommend not just replacing the sensor without trying to work out why it died in the first place, but they're not super expensive so I don't blame you if you do.
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Jan 30, 2016 22:13
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Car mainly gets used for about 4 mile trips several times a day. I live on an island in the Tongass rainforest there is 40 miles of road total. I could cover 2 miles of that if I did everything perfect without ever touching the accelerator. Also gas is lovely and the highest octane we have is 90 so most of the island has to use an additive to get there gas to 93 if they are running a turbo. Melthir fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Jan 30, 2016 |
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Jan 30, 2016 23:23
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Jan 31, 2016 00:19
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Welcome to car hell I guess. I've literally seen trees growing out of people's cars and Moss growing in the cracks and seals is not uncommon.
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Jan 31, 2016 01:15
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Jesus. That's horrifying. Yeah, that'll definitely explain the dead sensor, it'll be all choked up with carbon. Swapping it won't fix the problem permanently though, it'll die again. Probably not for a while.
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Jan 31, 2016 05:21
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2005 legacy gt 5mt. Has a cusco 1 way clutched front diff. Driving down the freeway, got a sudden card in spokes sound. Not rpm dependent, possible wheel speed linked though. Does not make any noise when not moving. Makes noise with clutch in or out. Maybe more noise on decel, maybe in my head, can't tell. Happens in any gear. Car drives basically fine (limped home at 30mph or so). No binding or anything. Clutch works, can shift, etc. Did have an axle replaced recently. Any ideas? Edit: sounds much louder and not really like a wheel bearing. nm fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Jan 31, 2016 |
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Jan 31, 2016 22:21
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Melthir posted:Car mainly gets used for about 4 mile trips several times a day. I live on an island in the Tongass rainforest there is 40 miles of road total. I could cover 2 miles of that if I did everything perfect without ever touching the accelerator. A Subaru? In SE Alaska?? I'm gobsmacked. What, do you live on Douglas Island? I've coasted down Blueberry Hill without accelerator before. I do not miss what that volume of rain can do to a car.
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Jan 31, 2016 23:57
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nm posted:2005 legacy gt 5mt. Has a cusco 1 way clutched front diff. Axle popped out of diff?
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Feb 1, 2016 00:16
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jamal posted:Axle popped out of diff? That would be interesting. Would the car go at all like that?
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Feb 1, 2016 01:28
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Mine did. It made a horrible sound too.
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Feb 1, 2016 01:34
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Should, LSD would take care of a little speed difference so the other axle (L or R) would still propel you forward, and even if it's open, then the center diff would let either the rear or front still propel you forward anyway. If you're on dry pavement and not hooning you wouldn't really notice which wheels are driving you forwards anyway. E: Had a CV joint blow in a way that I think made a card in spokes noise (was a while ago so I can't really remember, was worst on accel I think.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5J58Po_N5I Broke on the way to University, accelerating briskly and hit a pothole. Went to my classes, assessed it in the parking lot and limped it home without issues. Replaced it with an aftermarket axle (still unsure if this was a good idea after dealing with non-OEM axles in the beater forester...) Bajaha fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 01:36
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MechaFrogzilla posted:A Subaru? In SE Alaska?? I'm gobsmacked. What, do you live on Douglas Island? I've coasted down Blueberry Hill without accelerator before. I do not miss what that volume of rain can do to a car. Worse, I live in Ketchikan.
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Feb 1, 2016 01:44
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Mine did. It made a horrible sound too. Interesting. I assume happening less than 1000mi after install someoen hosed up or there was a defect.
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Feb 1, 2016 01:49
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jamal posted:Not hard, but are you sure the sensor is the problem? does it still have the stock catted up-pipe? Already have the rear Whiteline adjustable bar. Ride is maybe an edge too harsh for me but only really on speed bumps. I have the Konis at about one full turn, might back them off later.
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Feb 1, 2016 02:01
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nm posted:That would be interesting. Would the car go at all like that? With your diff it would.
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Feb 1, 2016 02:14
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jamal posted:With your diff it would. Touche, i forgot about that. I assume I should just have it towed? I do have a bunch of tows with aaa. nm fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 02:42
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You could jack up that corner to see if the axle is fully seated in the trans. There will be some lateral play if not. Might be able to pop it back in if that is the problem but sometimes it requires dropping the control arm so you can swing the whole strut and arm in to pop it in place. And if it's not seated, the snap ring could have come out of place so it'll have to get dug out. I would avoid driving it because you could damage the splines on the axle/diff or the clutch plates themselves. That does all assume the axle is the actual problem. Could be something completely different.
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Feb 1, 2016 02:51
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nm posted:Interesting. I assume happening less than 1000mi after install someoen hosed up or there was a defect. On mine, when I first bought the car the inspection noted the rear axle was a little damp on that corner. When I took it to a (lovely) shop I asked them to take a look at it, and they said the circlip was "bent" but they had fixed it. Cue an autocross about a year later when I popped the axle completely out and got the horrible grinding sound. lovely shop (which is a Subaru-specific specialty shop located fewer than five blocks from a dealership, mind you) had just hammered the circlip flat in a vise and shoved it back in using the axle as a ram rather than put a fresh one in. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 05:16
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gently caress every thing about these little clips  Changed my pads last weekend and on the test drive heard a noise emanating from the left front that sounds like a robot savagely raping a cat. Come to find out the little fucker was just out of spec enough to drag along the skinny edge of the rotor.
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Feb 1, 2016 15:52
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I swapped the coolant, trans, and diff fluids in my 2011 WRX on Sunday, and while I had the intercooler off, I noticed a lot of what looked and felt like oil (no smell, though) soaking the intercooler-throttle body hose. Looking into the IC and turbo, I didn't see any oil residue, but there was a small puddle of it under where the hose was. Should I be worried?
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Feb 1, 2016 20:26
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That's normal, you suck in a decent amount through the pvc system which hooks into the turbo inlet. I've got the  Crawford AOS and I still see some oil in the intake tract. Probably going to just throw in a catch can after the AOS eventually. (Although mines fairly modified and running 21ish psi peak)
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Feb 1, 2016 20:42
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Whats an AOS?
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Feb 1, 2016 23:41
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