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Geirskogul posted:
God drat. Now I really wish I had a drain in my garage. I've already got a spigot out there and our dishwasher is actually getting replaced this weekend. Son of a bitch that would be a good idea.
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Jan 12, 2016 17:58
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FIANCEE
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Geirskogul posted:
Oh god, if I did that in our dishwasher I would not survive the experience.
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Jan 12, 2016 20:24
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I'm debating keeping my old dishwasher for just this sort of shenanigans when I put the kitchen back together... ... place your bets: How long will a dishwasher filled with acetone (or diesel fuel, or kerosene) survive before all the seals, hoses, and assorted plastic bits turn into goo?
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Jan 12, 2016 20:48
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kastein posted:I'm debating keeping my old dishwasher for just this sort of shenanigans when I put the kitchen back together... Just use like 5x the soap, problem solved 
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Jan 12, 2016 21:03
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kastein posted:I'm debating keeping my old dishwasher for just this sort of shenanigans when I put the kitchen back together... Parts washer solution should stretch it out a little longer. If you set up a drain and filter system you could probably collect and recover some of it too, like a commercial parts washer.
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Jan 12, 2016 21:17
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kastein posted:I'm debating keeping my old dishwasher for just this sort of shenanigans when I put the kitchen back together... About 45 seconds.
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Jan 12, 2016 22:24
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Geirskogul posted:8: Took off the OIL-SOAKED TINWARE that I could easily remove. Place OIL-SOAKED TINWARE into DISHWASHER. Wash OIL-SOAKED TINWARE. Remove SURPRISINGLY-RUSTY TINWARE from dishwasher, proceed to get yelled at by I'm hoping you won't have to eat your food from engine oil-smelling dinner plates (with a sprinkling of rust dust for a flavor).
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Jan 12, 2016 22:24
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Dishwasher hasn't been used for literally years otherwise.
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Jan 12, 2016 22:42
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Okay, so the horn on the bus has been...lacking at best. One of the reasons for this is VW's godawful, stupid, mind-bogglingly dense setup for how the horn works. I won't get into too many details, but the short version is: the entire steering column, from the bottom mount to the top mount, is isolated from the rest of the vehicle. Towards the bottom of the column, there is a riveted/welded on spade connector, and a jumper wire is strung down AROUND the steering junction (that has the gubbin/rubber biscuit, also a part of the isolation system) to a steering box bolt. At the top of the column is the horn ring, and a wire runs UP THROUGH THE CENTER OF THE STEERING SHAFT, coupling to the horn button. Pressing the horn button (which is isolated with 70's era plastic spacers, mind you) shorts the center wire with the outside of the steering column, which has a second jumper wire that is run down to the horn. So, the horn is live all of the time, and the ground for the horn takes a convoluted pathway up through the outer steering column, across the horn button, and down the central wire to a bolt on the steering box (around the spinning steering components, as well.) Everything else on the column, like the ignition barrel, wiper switches, and turn signal switches, is isolated from the column itself (because all of those components are grounded) with various bits of 40-year-old plastic. Also the wire that runs down the center (that twists when steering) can rub through the insulation and short on the inside of the column, or the button ring can get dirty, or a previous owner (  PO's!) could use a self-tapping screw in the wrong spot. The chances for problems with this setup are crazy, and could have been solved with one simple slip ring.You know that scene/theme in Little Miss Sunshine where the horn starts going off and won't stop for the entire rest of the road trip? It was funny because buses were ubiquitous in the childhood of adults today (and, well, grandparents today), so their common problems, like the horn, were equally part of the public consciousness. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfxfjUW-HVs Well, mine has been off-and-on doing the same thing, along with just plain not working when I wanted it to. I removed the button and cleaned and re-adjusted the spring tension, but nothing was working. The only fixes I find by looking at the diagrams and reading online necessitate removal of the steering box and column, because the column comes out from the bottom. gently caress. That. Noise. Make louder, better noise. I've been planning a horn upgrade like I did on the beetle for a long time, and at the same time I've been scouring ebay listings. I found two things on the cheap that are going to make my life so much better (or, conversely, get me shot). One of them was a used (but guaranteed functional) Carson HA-100 electronic airhorn amplifier. I wanted to stray away from what I did with the beetle (buy a used siren headunit), because technically installing a siren, even if you don't use it, is illegal in many states. Also, a siren headunit is large and takes up valuable underdash space. Also, I planned on mounting the amplifier behind the bumper in the crash structure, and it is a lot easier to waterproof (read: fill with silicone) a small amp. Also they are a lot cheaper so if it breaks (and is unrepairable because I have filled it with silicone or sprayed conformal coating on everything) I'm not out bank.  My install is ugly as sin, but you're going to have to trust me on this one. Also, all pictures are before final wire-tying and grommeting. I want to drive for a day or two to be sure everything stands up to vibration and works before I commit.  The second purchase wasn't from ebay, but instead craigslist.  There is more than just the strap. The strap just reduces vibration; the horn itself is mounted with a bent aluminum and a bent steel bracket, and bolted to the floor with a reinforcement plate inside, and five bolts in a dice pattern. I don't have a good shot of it, but here's a bad one:   While I was down there, I took note about how every new part I've put on still looks amazing. Thanks, Arizona!  Along the way, I have become a full convert to Wago Lever-nuts. They are UL listed and approved for junction box use, and they hold onto the wire tighter than anything I have ever seen, while still being re-usable. They are about $.30-50 apiece, which is spendy for home use, but I think it's worth it in a vibrating automobile. Ignore the loose wires. Those are unused from the "harness" I ran a few months ago.   "But Geir, what are you going to use for the horn button? You already said the column setup doesn't work!" Don't worry fam, I got u covered A drill, followed by a razor blade trim, please.  Plus some 3D printed magic (seriously magic, I went from concept to prototype in less than two hours)  (Those are stainless screws)  The purple one is a concept. I'm going to splash some water on it and see where it collects, and modify the .STL file to add a drain hole. Don't want any water collecting.   Edit: I should add that the poo poo ground and the blue->black wire change is intentional, before anybody asks. The bus is getting a full re-wire next summer with my Motogadget M-Unit V2 that I've had sitting in a box for over a year. And I need to pick up more ring terminals. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Jan 18, 2016 |
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Jan 18, 2016 23:30
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BEHOLD! THE STOMP-HORNŽ! Bad rear end.
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Jan 19, 2016 01:58
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Whoops, first test drive with the horn and the clutch pedal snapped one of the wires. My bad, forgot to route it around where the pedal pushes down and it ripped the wire right out. Two Wago (r) Lever-Nuts (tm)(that I have squirted some RTV into because of location) later and I'm good to go.
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Jan 19, 2016 05:31
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 You were right. You were riiiiight...
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Jan 20, 2016 12:26
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Well, a few days ago, on the drive to work, I was noticing that the ignition was cutting out for half a second every now and again. Once, even at a stop light, causing the engine to die. I took note of this, but continued to work. Off of work, at 0100, I started the drive home in the bus. Again, the ignition was cutting out occasionally, causing complete loss of power (no spark) and a big bang when it started back up. I pulled over before getting onto the freeway to go home (my logic being that sooner rather than later is best, and it's an 19 mile drive) and cleaned and inspected all the wires on the ignition. Coil, distributor, HT leads, etc. Gave everything else a good wiggle just to make sure nothing would have random corrosion in the way. Three miles into the freeway drive, the ignition cut out completely, and I pulled over into a gore zone. Flashlight in hand, I started diagnosing. Checked for any frayed wires on my pertronix setup, any oil contamination, any broken plugs, or any voltage issues to the coil. Even removed and re-tightened all of the grounds. Between every diagnosis step was an attempt to start. After TWO HOURS, the battery was getting a little bit low, and starts were getting rough. I kicked the battery switch over into "EMERGENCY COMBINE," that links the house battery with the main battery. Voltage was good again (and the house battery is a group 42 (R) battery, which is larger than the main engine one). After all of the diagnosing and no-starts, I remembered that I had thrown an EMPI-brand SVA (vacuum-only advance) distributor "as a spare" in the bus somewhere. It's a piece of poo poo, but I bought it to get me to work in the beetle for a few weeks while I was waiting on a part to come in. There was one issue, though: the SVA distributor has both a bigass vacuum can on it, and a big electronic ignition heatsink/control unit hanging off of the side. Anybody that knows a type IV engine knows the distributor sits low in a recess. I'd have to remove the vacuum can (which means a fixed advance amount that I'd have to set with...something) and possibly the electronic control box. I can remove the can no problem, but the box is required to make the distributor, you know, work. Thankfully, I had a pocketful of these connectors I had discovered, wago lever nuts. They're for everything from 30ga to 12ga wire, solid or stranded, and allegedly are UL approved.  Using six of them, and some scrap wire laying around the bus, I extended the three wires that ran into the distributor from the box, so the distributor would sit (sans vacuum can) in the recess. Here's a pic of the distributor for reference:  After doing all of this, with my janky fixes, the bus started up. Now, I had to make a choice: set the timing so the bus would idle, or set it so the bus would be able to drive at higher speed. One would allow me to stop at stoplights without having to restart every time, and the other (while allowing faster driving) would be a bitch and a half at every stop. It was now 0330 so traffic shouldn't have been heavy, but I went with the former. Any throttle above 1/8th would cause horrendous popping and loss of power, followed by the engine dying. So, I drove the remaining 15 miles or so home at barely above idle; my top speed was 30mph in 3rd gear on the flat, and it took me about two minutes to reach that speed. But, I made it home using some scrap wire and a hope and a prayer. And all of this. ALL OF THIS, could have been prevented had I not fully trusted the compufire electronic ignition I had installed, and kept a spare set of points and a condenser in the glovebox. I have carried a spare set in the beetle's glovebox ever since I did the electronic ignition mod (also a compufire, same model) almost 18 months ago. Exactly as the ancient prophesies say, if you carry a spare part, you will never have a failure of that part. I now have converted back to points on the bus (though will keep the electronic one on the beetle until it fails, which will probably be never at my rate) and carry a spare set in the glovebox.
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Jan 22, 2016 22:16
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My only worry with those connectors would be vibration resistance - aren't they meant for house wiring?
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Jan 22, 2016 22:36
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Holy poo poo, 14 INCH was right about Pertronixes.
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Jan 22, 2016 22:47
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I am offended by those connectors on a moral and religious level, but if they work for you, at least they aren't scotchloks I guess. So when are you doing the EFI conversion on this thing?
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Jan 22, 2016 22:58
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The connectors are for house wiring, yes, but they clamp down HARD on the wire. I didn't buy them for automotive use, but instead for house wiring use, but I just happened to have a few spares on hand because I had brought them to work to show a coworker. In an emergency, I think they worked well. And they don't cut the wire or vampire tap in, so I'm sold. I have already converted the connection to a proper crimp-on spade, but I'm glad I had them on hand. Here's a cut-away picture of them to give you an idea of how they work. I think it's clever, and they're 240v rated (well, 600vac rated, you know what I mean)  Tonight after work I'm driving the bus to a friend's house with a garage, and we're going to paint the top half white, from the belt line up, tomorrow. He's got a garage and I've got plastic and painter's tape. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Jan 22, 2016 |
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Jan 22, 2016 23:15
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Yeah, those most definitely have a spot in the emergency roadside heehaw repair toolkit, I'm not uncomfortable about that at all. I might have to get some myself for that kind of thing in fact.
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Jan 22, 2016 23:22
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Does anybody on SA make vectors? The dragon is going away at some point, but I want to preserve the memory.
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Jan 23, 2016 00:49
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Holy poo poo, 14 INCH was right about Pertronixes. How is it that most aftermarket electronic ignitions fail? You guys wouldn't believe how simple the mazda rotary and ford el falcon drop in style systems were; and no large heatsink or remote box required. (Mazda brought out the electronic dizzy in 1980s, and it just drops into any old rotary, just change the coils to 12v. Ford had a bad experience in the 1995 "EF" falcon with a computer controlled ignition, so for the 96-98 model -the "EL"- Ford just chucked in a regular dizzy with a small ignition module screwed to the side, just like the old mazdas had, but larger as it was attached to the computer unlike the older carbed mazdas. Nothing complicated, no external box, or massive attached heatsink, no crank sensor. Just simple small sensors for the hall effect shaft/rotor button that took up little to no room. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Jan 23, 2016 |
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Jan 23, 2016 15:40
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The compufire/pertronix setups are like that. Just a sensor where the points go, and a magnet ring. But it still failed.
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Jan 23, 2016 20:12
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They are really finicky about minimum operating voltage, and subsequently are very sensitive to bad grounds or old supply side wiring. I also hear that some of them suffer from damage when the key is left in run but the engine is not rotating, like burning up a set of points.
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Jan 24, 2016 02:58
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Yeah, you can't static time compufire or pertronix units, as they'll fry out if you try to. Or so I've read on sites. Maybe I sat for awhile in just the wrong spot with the key on and engine off? Oh well, got a spare set of points now.
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Jan 24, 2016 03:26
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Today was one of the big paint days! Armed with five cans of Rustoleum 2x Gloss White, two rolls of duct tape, a roll of painter's tape, and seven disposable felt blankets, I drove over to my friend's house and we started. Not pictured: sanding all of the black paint just one more time to get rid of any residual oil and burrs. First, taped up the windshield:  Then, the driver's side windows:  Rear window:  And the passenger side:  Detail shot. From the Barrett Jackson show that started today:  Then I drove it (very carefully) into the garage, and we taped up the blankets:     Yet another timeskip. Three cans of paint later:    (note: imgur name for this picture: "DRRR") Aaaaand, the big reveal. Tape and blankets removed!      There are a few spots the painter's tape wasn't pushed down, but I"ll touch them up later with a foam brush and some paint. Easy peasy, and it's not like the rest of the bus is perfect in any way. Some smudges here or there are by far the least of my problems with this paintjob.  While I was waiting for the paint to harden up enough to drive home with, we installed the rear signal marker lights. The LH side one the PO had was old and from a boat or something, and the RH side one was missing entirely, as the entire RH rear corner is a patch panel and Bondo.   We also kinda painted the roof maybe, but the roof wasn't really high priority. It's more like we were trying to use up the rest of the can of paint. Don't think too much of it.  GIF for fun 
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Jan 24, 2016 |
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Jan 24, 2016 03:49
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Looking pretty good! You were much more productive than I was today. I sat in my chair playing video games, and now I'm going to do a late evening drive to the gym.
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Jan 24, 2016 04:00
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That is brilliant as-is, so much win
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Jan 24, 2016 04:31
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Jan 24, 2016 06:17
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Nice one!Geirskogul posted:The compufire/pertronix setups are like that. Just a sensor where the points go, and a magnet ring. But it still failed.
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Jan 24, 2016 11:39
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I don't know if it's a result of inhaling so many paint fumes yesterday, but today I am sick as poo poo. Work progresses onwards! The heater booster/blower fan (assist fan) vibrated terribly 9/10 times when you turned it on, and only occasionally smoothed out with running. No pictures of the first part of the process, but I disassembled the fan, cleaned it out, replaced a few bent and loose C-clips, and reassembled it. Just imagine the following, but with a solid 3-4mm layer of dirt on the entire thing:   I don't want any leaves (or engine parts) to get sucked into the fan, so I took 30 minutes and designed a basic fan guard for it, too. For scale, the square openings are 7mm a side.   Printing now. 
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Jan 25, 2016 01:25
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I'll call it a success 
Somebody fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Jan 25, 2016 |
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Jan 25, 2016 03:21
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Why not print it upside down from the way you did? That way you won't have a ton of ugly bridges.
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Jan 25, 2016 06:10
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Because I'm a goddamned retard. Feel free to change the thread title.
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Jan 25, 2016 06:20
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It took me a good while to figure out that printability is just as important as functionality when designing parts for 3d printing. Lots of wasted plastic and less than stellar parts, but it's nice being able to iterate until it's right at a minimal cost.
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Jan 25, 2016 06:33
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I meant to print it upside-down. But today is one (literal) fever-dream. I am so goddamned sick. This is my once-yearly flu.
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Jan 25, 2016 06:41
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Forgive me, for I have sinned. Stick with me. I have wanted to insulate the bus for awhile. It doesn't have any original insulation (as this wasn't a westfalia tintop, just a 9-seater) and it is rattley and loud. The new plastic panels look a ton better than the old wood, but they, too, rattle. So, I went to <CORPORATE HELLHOLE> and got some supplies.  Then, I removed the bench seat:  Go! Sit in the corner!  Note: this bench seat is modified strangely. See those little After the seat, I removed they key interior panels. Not the front doors, as those will come another day, but all of the important ones in the back.     After that, I used two rolls of flashing tape to cover the single-layer sheetmetal areas. This is asphalt/mix tape with a foil backing.     I had some tape left over, and this area is going to be under a bed, so    After the dampening tape, the real fun began.      Now, at this point in the story, I fell to temptation. You see, I hate, HATE even touching styrofoam. It gives me the heebie jeebies, and is right up there with "touching my bellybutton" on the Personal Hell and Real Torture (PHaRT) scale. Those with weak stomachs, small children, or members of the fairer sexes, please leave the tent now. Your ticket price will be refunded in full.         Oh also I used like one half of one sheet of styrofoam so I think I need to return the other two. FUN FACT: the distance from the inside of the cargo door to the back of the front seats is 111", and the width of the opening flat across the bottom is 47.5", though it immediately opens up larger once through the door. So you can, in fact, transport 4x8' sheets of styrofoam/plywood without issue.
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Jan 31, 2016 03:07
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Okay so after a test drive to return the other two sheets of styrofoam, before even re-installing the door cards, I can say that the engine noise is GREATLY reduced. I'm no longer messing with the stereo volume up and down as I accelerate and come to a stop!
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Jan 31, 2016 03:46
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That's an impressive day's work.
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Jan 31, 2016 06:28
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Geirskogul posted:
Does the flashing tape do anything by itself? I have a roll and a rattly car...
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Jan 31, 2016 11:54
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Reports from builds on thesamba and Google results from other forums say that yes, it does a lot by itself. It's like a ghetto dynamat that dampens vibrations and resonances in bare metal. Just remember that once it's applied, you're really not getting it off without a fight.
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Jan 31, 2016 20:02
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Even if it doesn't do a drat thing... it's shiny and chrome!
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Jan 31, 2016 22:06
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