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sharkytm posted:That wear pattern is classic blown shocks, especially on low-weight rear end vehicles. My wife's Fit's shocks wore out, and left her rear snows feathered like that. Swap on a new pair of shocks, or it'll eat the rear tires again. Upon further analysis, the pre-2000 date coded tire and dramatically leaking rear shocks appear to agree with your and Powershift's assessment. Also the whole milieu is pretty amazing. On top of the diagonal wear and the periodic flat spots it won't stand up on its own. It's an italic tire now.
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Jan 25, 2016 04:15
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Assembled the rest of the engine. Mated transmission. Went to bolt up starter at the end of the day. Stretched and shredded the bolts and threads because we had the slide bracket in the block already torqued. gently caress.
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Jan 25, 2016 04:26
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Nodoze posted:Get a drain valve they are the best Yeah but then I don't get to go fishing for my drain bolt.
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Jan 25, 2016 08:46
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Nodoze posted:Get a drain valve they are the best Better than a magnetic drain plug?
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Jan 25, 2016 13:01
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Yes, you're correct. Also i guess it may help speed up the oil draining, or may not. I figured as much from the "pour oil in general direction of engine", but figured it might save someone some time 
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Jan 25, 2016 13:38
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Why not just pull the cooler return line and dump all the old fluid? It's less wasteful but doesn't get the fluid in the converter. There's a reason, of course.  So the Volvo radiator/trans cooler has a fitting that supposedly takes a special tool to remove. Also, the fluid level on these cars are stupid sensitive according to the manual. They have to be within 0.2 L according to it. This wouldn't be a big deal if it were easy to check the fluid level. There is a dipstick, but the procedure to check it "hot" is this: Problem is, you're basically guessing at trans temp unless you have a Volvo scan tool to see what the readout is. So essentially the easiest way to get around this is "drain fluid, replace same amount you drained." TL;DR: Because Volvo, basically. Elmnt80 posted:It spits back h9 as the high beam, h11 as the high beam and D2r as the HID bulb at ~$100 each (look online). Yep, this daytime running light is a standard halogen H10, 9145. Nothing seemed to line up online anywhere with it being for my car, even for the fog lights. Got it replaced yesterday.
Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Jan 25, 2016 |
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Jan 25, 2016 14:18
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Larrymer posted:Yep, this daytime running light is a standard halogen H10, 9145. Nothing seemed to line up online anywhere with it being for my car, even for the fog lights. Ah, okay then. I think I was thrown by your mention of the optional HIDs and my brain went down the wrong road. As it turns out, This is a bit harder when I can't walk out and just look to see what light is out myself.
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Jan 25, 2016 16:48
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Laserface posted:Better than a magnetic drain plug? Yes
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Jan 25, 2016 17:32
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I just scored a set of complete DC Integra shocks/springs/tophats/bumpstops/boots for $80. They're not mint, but they're also not totally blown like the ones in the Civic. Pretty stoked. Dude was tearing down a perfectly good DC Integra to build a sporty car out of (Teins are going in). I got dibs on the powered steering rack, which should be a faster ratio than my Civic, when he gets it out.
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Jan 27, 2016 02:07
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I just scored a set of complete DC Integra shocks/springs/tophats/bumpstops/boots for $80. They're not mint, but they're also not totally blown like the ones in the Civic. Pretty stoked. If you upgrade to aftermarket shocks for the civic, be sure to remove the threaded collar piece that the brake line mounts to from the old ones, the aftermarket ones may not have them. I bought koni yellows for mine and they didn't have them. The same piece can be grabbed off of a similar generation accord stock shock, as they are the same size.
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Jan 27, 2016 02:27
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Today I put in a new axle in the V70 to replace the one that had a hole worn in the boot. It had 146k (assuming original) so figured it was better to do that than re-boot it. Upon doing this I noticed that one of the control arm bushings is torn which probably explains the front end popping and weird handling. Another $75 to rock auto for 4 bushings for the front control arms on the way.  I've never replaced just bushings (usually do the whole arm) so this should be interesting as I don't own a press. Aluminum arms and no rust, we'll see what happens. Hopefully nothing too "exciting."Also found that the front has no camber adjustment on the struts, which I found weird. Yeah, it's not a performance car but I figured it would have eccentric bolts at least. Toe only from the looks of it. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Jan 27, 2016 |
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Jan 27, 2016 03:52
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Burn the rubber out of the bushings (or rip it out with a drillbit like this) and then sawzall the outer metal sleeve through 90% of the way, making sure to not cut into the aluminum. Then you can probably poke it out with a screwdriver and a hammer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZ9IKbRu91o It's probably seized pretty nicely to the aluminum, so this is way easier than trying to press it out usually. I'd wire brush the bore and maybe toss a little WD40 on it before pressing the new one in, too. e: can't hurt to put the bushing in the freezer and the control arm in the oven at 150-160 degrees, either. That should buy you a few thousandths of increased clearance.
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Jan 27, 2016 17:32
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I'll probably try a ball joint C clamp style one and my impact first and see how that goes. If that fails I'll probably do exactly as you suggest but I hope it doesn't come to that.
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Jan 27, 2016 17:52
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Hit a roundabout while sneezing 2 weeks ago in my Saab 9-5 Bad things happened. Replaced inner and outer tie rods, ball joint, CV axle (boot was torn). New tie rod was different length than old tie rod so I had to guess on the alignment. Steering is now hilarious. Fixed gas leak problem too. I swear this thing will be awesome again.
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Jan 28, 2016 04:49
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So when I first got my Civic, I thought that the rhythmic wheel speed thumping and grinding from the back was either wheel bearings or rear drums. Did the rear drums, and the wheel bearings seemed fine - no visible runout, no horrible grinding noises when spun by hand. Strange! Now with new(er) tires in the back I think it was just the horribly cupped 8+ year old rear snow tires all along. Picked up an $80 set of Integra complete suspension units so I'll probably fart those in pretty soon.
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Jan 28, 2016 17:50
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Mcqueen posted:Hit a roundabout while sneezing 2 weeks ago in my Saab 9-5 Are you British? Because this sounds like an overwhelmingly British thing to do.
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Jan 28, 2016 23:49
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Accessory idler pulley on my SRT-4 was making sounds that I can only describe as "the sinking of Atlantis". $50 later I have a new one and a new belt because hey, it's been 160k miles why not? gently caress. Me. Sideways. Can't take the pulley off the spring housing because the bolt backs into the frame rail. The spring housing bolt is so hidden it was only by the grace of God I got a ratcheting wrench on it. Two clicks of travel on a bolt that is like three loving inches long. Install was just as bad. I had to hang the assembly from a piece of string looped over the hood so I could use a single finger to half rear end start this bolt by a finger nail. I want to murder a baby seal. P.S. don't ever start an open diff Chrysler with one front wheel off the ground and let out the clutch. It threw like 9 codes.
Maker Of Shoes fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Jan 29, 2016 |
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Jan 28, 2016 23:54
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Could be worse, you could have tried backing it off with a ratching box end wrench. Step 1: back bolt off halfway Step 2: get wrench stuck Step 3: stand back and look at your handy work Step 4: unbolt motor mount.
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Jan 29, 2016 00:05
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Powershift posted:Could be worse, you could have tried backing it off with a ratching box end wrench. I was somewhere between step one and two before I realized my impending doom.
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Jan 29, 2016 00:14
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Powershift posted:Could be worse, you could have tried backing it off with a ratching box end wrench. That's just what I was thinking. Get the bolt backed out just enough to trap the wrench/socket/ratchet. I forget precisely when, but I've been there.
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Jan 29, 2016 00:56
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That exact situation is why I now own two 9/16 gearwrenches and one 9/16 stubby gearwrench*. gently caress the studs on an NP231 for seizing to the nuts and backing out, instead of the nut backing off, trapping the goddamned stud/nut/wrench in a pocket in the tailhousing of the AW4 or AX15 transmission, forever. * I learned that lesson the hard way, TWICE, and if the stud moves instead of the nut, I don't trap the damned wrench now.
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Jan 29, 2016 01:14
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New clutch slave came in the mail a week or so ago and I finally got a break through the cold and snow to get it on today. First time driving the car too. Drives like a dream with the exception of a few minor things. A lot of my intake piping is fucky/leaky/ABS plumbing fittings, and I have some sticky brake issues in the rear, but nothing serious. She's getting a full detail soon and going in storage until winter is over.
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Jan 29, 2016 06:43
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Powershift posted:Step 4: unbolt motor mount. That's the only way to change the idler on a 93-01 Altima. It honestly wasn't too bad pulling the mount, it was a serious  moment when I realized how easy it was to get to the bolts once the engine was lifted a few inches.The Ion, on the other hand.. the tensioner can burn in hell. You can actually remove it easily enough, but the hole that you slip a breaker bar into is angled at such a way that you either need to pull an axle or pull the motor mount if you want to use 90% of the tensioner tools out there on it - so you're hosed when you try to actually put the belt on. At least there's a small access hole to unbolt the tensioner..
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Jan 29, 2016 07:37
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I got my tires rotated and balanced, and a shiny new set of lug nuts. A very exciting day for the Jeep.
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Jan 30, 2016 00:32
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I checked my truck's front suspension out since it sounded like the new control arms (did uppers and lowers, new ball joints and outer tie rods) were binding. I'd heard that it might be that the bolts weren't torqued down enough by the alignment shop so I wanted to torque the poo poo out of them. Upon doing so, I found that I or the alignment place (but I don't think they even take off the wheels...) only hand tightened my lugs on the FR wheel on a truck that needs like ~150 lb-ft. Welp. Some of the control arm bolts were a little loose (140 lb-ft spec I believe) so they were tightened and I checked the torque on all the wheel nuts again for good measure. Still didn't seem to make much difference. Might just be a squeaky rack or steering shaft, and the power steering pump is notoriously lovely (01 Silverado 5.3) so I might be hearing that.
Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 15:11
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Removed the recirc hose between the intake and BOV, venting it to atmosphere. Capped off the intake with a 1" cane tip. Sounds awesome. Excuse the lovely cellphone quality audio. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryvuGU58HkY
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Feb 1, 2016 18:18
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Removed the recirc hose between the intake and BOV, venting it to atmosphere. Capped off the intake with a 1" cane tip. Sounds awesome. Excuse the lovely cellphone quality audio. This is pretty much universally a bad idea on any turbo car unless you account for the metered air you're losing. But you probably already know that. 
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Feb 1, 2016 19:09
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My car has a MAP sensor not a MAF. Pretty common "mod" for my car.
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Feb 1, 2016 19:18
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Larrymer posted:This is pretty much universally a bad idea on any turbo car unless you account for the metered air you're losing. But you probably already know that. You just put a second MAF in backwards on the end of the BOV, then wire it in parallel to the stock MAF.
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Feb 1, 2016 19:24
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Put your seatbelt on you maniac 
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Feb 1, 2016 20:05
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:You just put a second MAF in backwards on the end of the BOV, then wire it in parallel to the stock MAF. wait... seriously?
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Feb 1, 2016 20:23
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:wait... seriously? No.
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Feb 1, 2016 20:25
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meatpimp posted:No. hahaha okay. I didn't think so, but for a minute there, my brain tried to reason it into working.
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Feb 1, 2016 20:27
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Wire it in series. Duh.
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Feb 1, 2016 20:27
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Bucephalus posted:Wire it in series. Duh. Exactly. Parallel would just be silly.
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Feb 1, 2016 20:29
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kastein posted:That exact situation is why I now own two 9/16 gearwrenches and one 9/16 stubby gearwrench*. I just this weekend looked at a Pop Mech article on "things to throw out of your garage right now". One of the tips was "extra/duplicate tools", and I remember thinking: "are these people insane? There's no such thing as 'extra' tools." There's always some point where you will need two of a thing to get something in or out.
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Feb 1, 2016 20:34
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:wait... seriously? 
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Feb 1, 2016 23:09
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Removed the recirc hose between the intake and BOV, venting it to atmosphere. Capped off the intake with a 1" cane tip. Sounds awesome. Excuse the lovely cellphone quality audio. My car sounds like that with the BOV recirculating. Metal intake with an aggressive spring in the bov is a hoot, you can choose between pigeon noises, a "pssshhh" or dead silence just by letting off the gas at the right rpm/boost.
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Feb 1, 2016 23:31
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Just get one of these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00LPlHDP98Q
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Feb 1, 2016 23:33
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If you don't put a duck call on that BOV you are doing it wrong SAC. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pbUMXZvfi8
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Feb 1, 2016 23:37
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