|
Basin wrenches own.
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2016 01:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 21:36 |
|
|
glynnenstein posted:This sounds like you need a basin wrench to tighten a nut underneath the counter. Couldn't agree more on this idea. One other wrench I picked up about a year ago. And has come in handy in some cases is this Ridgid faucet wrench. I would suggest a basin wrench first but I like that this can grab onto a lot of the plastic nuts on some cheaper faucets. http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-66807-...plumbing+wrench Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Jan 26, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2016 01:52
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:Basin wrenches own.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2016 01:57
|
|
|
Count Roland posted:Thanks, but gently caress me if I'm paying 75 bucks for a piece of pipe, christ. This is the price I saw elsewhere too, maybe I'll need to bite the bullet. At the start of my plumbing course, we unloaded maybe thirty 21' pipes off a truck (all malleable iron I think, my memory is fuzzy). My instructor asked us to guess how much we thought it costs. We were all still pretty nervous, it being our first day and all, but my buddy blurted out "five thousand dollars!" as a joke. "Close, it's actually ten thousand". 
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2016 03:22
|
|
|
Count Roland posted:No but its probably similar materials. I need Schedule 80 does it doesn't blow up in my face. supercritical CO2 is going to be over 1000 psi, so you're gonna need something a bit better than schedule 80.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2016 04:02
|
|
|
glynnenstein posted:This sounds like you need a basin wrench to tighten a nut underneath the counter. Rocko Bonaparte posted:It does turn out the cold is simply loose. Check if there are actually washers between the nut and countertop. If those were skipped you'll be forever tightening these thing periodically and may as well just bite the bullet now and get some in there (which will mean disconnecting the supply lines).
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2016 16:35
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Check if there are actually washers between the nut and countertop. If those were skipped you'll be forever tightening these thing periodically and may as well just bite the bullet now and get some in there (which will mean disconnecting the supply lines). I actually installed these faucets (hence why they're probably getting loose). IIRC there is a nut pushing on a metal washer, which is pushing on a plastic washer. If I remember this right, the plastic washer reminded me of neoprene. It was very bouncy, which made compressing everything feel very strange.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2016 16:40
|
|
|
OK, basic plumbing question: In our new (to us, < 1 yr) house, I've noticed that the toilet in our hall bathroom is verrrry slightly leaking when flushing. We've noticed some very gradual grime buildup around the base, and a tiny amount of wetness/dripping down the pipe in the basement (exposed joists in my workshop). Flashback: We actually had a similar problem back in our condo. It turns out a previous owner decided to just lay in some new tile overtop the old 1950's era stuff, raising the floor by like 3/8" and making it so the toilet did not seat well on the collar anymore. Our building's maintenance guy "fixed" it by coming up and putting two wax rings down instead of one, but he'd have to come back every few months because (I assume) the toilet would shift enough to create a gap in the ultrawide seal. It wasn't really fixed for good until we finally remodeled the bathroom ourselves and the contractor put a new collar on. So back to the present: it turns out that this bathroom also has what looks like some Harry Homeowner tile work on the floor. I'm tempted to try removing the toilet and replacing/doubling the wax rings myself, but I'm wondering what the likelihood is that this will end up being a waste of time. Alternatively, how hard would it be to fix it "properly" by replacing the collar? Finally, since I've got some other plumbing work I need to have done anyways (the main shut-off for the house is 60+ years old and we want it replaced by something more reliable) I could ask the plumber to work on the toilet as well, but would they be willing to do a more permanent fix, or are they just going to want to replace the seals (which I can do myself)? I realize that last part is largely dependent on the plumber, but I'm curious what people in this thread's instinct would be if faced with this.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2016 17:09
|
|
|
A plumber worth paying for should make a permanent fix if that is what you asked and paid for. I'd just call around to inquire about costs and proposed fixes. If all they want to do is put some silicon caulking around the loo, call another one.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2016 17:39
|
|
|
Deedle posted:A plumber worth paying for should make a permanent fix if that is what you asked and paid for. Yeah, after having typed all that out and thinking about it, I'm just going to pull it and replace the ring and see if that fixes it (looking at the rest of the work in this house I have decided not to err on prior owners not doing dumb things, like not replacing the ring after redoing the floor). If it's still a problem I can go from there. Since I'm here, on an unrelated note: Right now our washing machine is emptying into the laundry sink through a flex hose clamped to the top of the basin. This is all well and good, but since I foolishly consider myself moderately handy I was wondering: is there any advantage to that over, say, having it drain straight into the main stack that it is sitting literally right in front of (or rather, draining into the same run as the laundry sink)? If I modified the sink run I assume I'd need a separate P-trap for the washing machine. Is there an option to run it into the sink under the drain, a la a kitchen sink/dishwasher/garbage disposal? Since I use that room as a workshop, sometimes I've got things sitting in the basin and it would be cool to not have it fill with water whenever someone wants to do laundry.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2016 17:46
|
|
|
Hubis posted:Since I'm here, on an unrelated note: Right now our washing machine is emptying into the laundry sink through a flex hose clamped to the top of the basin. This is all well and good, but since I foolishly consider myself moderately handy I was wondering: is there any advantage to that over, say, having it drain straight into the main stack that it is sitting literally right in front of (or rather, draining into the same run as the laundry sink)? If I modified the sink run I assume I'd need a separate P-trap for the washing machine. Is there an option to run it into the sink under the drain, a la a kitchen sink/dishwasher/garbage disposal? Since I use that room as a workshop, sometimes I've got things sitting in the basin and it would be cool to not have it fill with water whenever someone wants to do laundry.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2016 20:35
|
|
|
Our house has two 50 gallon hot water tanks, a power-vent gas and electric, that are plumbed in series (see the second page of this document for an illustration). I understand the benefit of plumbing them in series--the gas tank does the bulk of the heating by heating the incoming cold water, while the electric tank keeps already-hot water hot. So we're able to have 100 gallons of hot water, heated for relatively cheap (gas), without having to maintain two gas tanks. Nifty. What should I set the temperature on the gas tank to, though? When we moved in, it was set to 135°F while both thermostats on the electric tank were set at the factory 120°F. I'm guessing the previous owners tried changing the thermostat on the gas tank in a vain attempt to have hotter water, while the thermostats on the electric tank are behind access panels and are a bit more difficult to get to. I've since changed the temperature on the gas tank to 120°F, figuring there's really no reason to keep it hotter than the electric one--it just wastes heat on standby. But I'm wondering if I should ideally set it lower, or, what's optimal? It seems series tanks is an uncommon configuration as I can find very little information on Google about them. ExcessBLarg! fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Jan 29, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2016 23:57
|
|
|
Having the gas heater set a little higher will ensure that you get a reasonably steady warmer temperature for longer (the water at the bottom of the electric tank will be below 120 due to stratification, and cold water coming into the gas tank will mix in a bit with the hot water, cooling it down).
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2016 02:53
|
|
|
OK, good to know. What's the consensus on optimal hot water temperature now? I know 120°F is recommended to avoid scaling but there's the whole legionella crap. With the current setup I'm finding water temperatures of 117° at the utility tub closest to the tanks and 113° at our kitchen sink, which is the furthest fixture away from them. Since our dishwasher recommends 120° incoming hot water I figure I'll have to raise the electric tanks 5-10° to get in the 120-125° range and raise the gas accordingly.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2016 04:54
|
|
|
Lyesh posted:supercritical CO2 is going to be over 1000 psi, so you're gonna need something a bit better than schedule 80. I've seen it done with schedule 80, from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxAjlmaUNzs
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2016 22:24
|
|
|
ExcessBLarg! posted:OK, good to know.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2016 04:53
|
|
|
daslog posted:I have a State Select Propane water heater that was install in 1999. It's still going, but it's not doing a great job maintaining water temperature overnight. The first person who showers gets warm water, the second and third person get hot water. Is it time to call it good and get a new one? After draining with the purge valve it didn't get any better, and it's 18 years old, so I ended up getting a replacement from my brother in law. He's an HVAC manager, so I let him pick it out. First, we went to drain the old one. He immediate notice a tiny little puddle near the bottom of the tank. We drained as much as we could (it didn't drain very well) and the thing sort of fell apart and let go a gallon of water from the bottom when we started to move it. Once we had it out, I knocked off the drain with a sledge hammer and a bunch dirty water came out, followed by an endless supply of clear warm water. I certainly dodged a bullet on this one. The new ones don't have a pilot light anymore either. Not going to miss dealing with that! daslog fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Jan 30, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2016 14:09
|
|
|
^^^ This is a good psa, drain your hot water tanks yearly people. Also pilot light? What's so hard about them? the one time like 3 years ago I turned the gas off to the hwt by accident, I must have spent at least 60 whole seconds relighting the drat thing, 60 seconds I'm never getting back ever in my life.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2016 14:23
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:^^^ This is a good psa, drain your hot water tanks yearly people. Over the years, I've been run out of propane by the gas company twice. If you have pilot lights, they require that you be there so they can re-light them. It's just a slight PITA, but yea not really that big a deal.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2016 14:45
|
|
|
I think most modern gas hot water heaters have little electro static igniters on them (like the ones you find on gas grills). I have two furnaces and a water heater and they all have them. I also have natural gas service so it doesn't tend to run out 
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2016 18:44
|
|
|
daslog posted:Over the years, I've been run out of propane by the gas company twice. If you have pilot lights, they require that you be there so they can re-light them. It's just a slight PITA, but yea not really that big a deal. Dont' you have a furnace, what's that run on propane, Doesn't that have a pilot? I"m pretty sure the gas co needs you to be there anyways because they check CO as well.. That's how I learned my furnace was trying to kill me, since my CO detector didn't go off.. they shut off gas for a repair down the street, turned it on and said.. yeah your furnace.. it aint-a-so-safe
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2016 20:29
|
|
|
I believe most modern forced air gas furnaces (at least natural gas) have electric igniters nowadays, they need the electricity to run the blower anyhow.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2016 20:49
|
|
|
The difference between a propane and natural gas furnace is the size of the burner orifice.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2016 00:37
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:Keep it above 140° in the tank and use a mixing valve on the tank output to lower the temperature and prevent scalding. Hot water should reach fixtures at or above 122° per OSHA receommendations Rumor is 140 w/ mixing valve is going to start being manufacturers rec very soon even for regular water heaters. A.O. already recommends the power vent models be run at 140+. (dunno if it's in the install instructions yet but it is one of the things they want us to do when we're working on their water heater warranty poo poo) tater_salad posted:Dont' you have a furnace, what's that run on propane, Doesn't that have a pilot? The main reason (At least in my area) that they want you there if they have to shut the gas down is that there's still old wall heaters installed some places that have standing pilots with no thermocouple.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2016 01:34
|
|
|
Jadunk posted:Rumor is 140 w/ mixing valve is going to start being manufacturers rec very soon even for regular water heaters. A.O. already recommends the power vent models be run at 140+. (dunno if it's in the install instructions yet but it is one of the things they want us to do when we're working on their water heater warranty poo poo)
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2016 03:24
|
|
|
I think I have one of those in my house, but I cut the gas off to it. It also vents into my covered sun porch. The two that still run are pretty modern.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2016 03:52
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:Good to hear they're keeping up with newer health standards. Speaking of scalding prevention, it's probably common knowledge in the plumbing thread but one-handle shower faucets typically have an adjustable stop to prevent the handle from turning past where you set it. You have to take the handle/knob off but it should take less than five minutes unless you're like me and have no idea where you put your Allen wrenches last time you used them. I don't think the manufacturers are doing it for reasons of health standards, from what I understand it's because the water heaters will last longer if run at the higher temp. Yes, most (maybe all?) new single handle shower valves have adjustable high temp stops but there are tons of existing single handle equipment that do not. I would probably say most single handle stuff in my area doesn't have a high temp limiter, hell a decent portion of it isn't even anti-scald. (lots of moen 1225 and pp avante in my area)
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2016 04:21
|
|
|
Jadunk posted:
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2016 04:33
|
|
|
Hubis posted:Yeah, after having typed all that out and thinking about it, I'm just going to pull it and replace the ring and see if that fixes it (looking at the rest of the work in this house I have decided not to err on prior owners not doing dumb things, like not replacing the ring after redoing the floor). If it's still a problem I can go from there. Lowes and HD sell extra tall wax rings. That might fix your problem.
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2016 16:14
|
|
|
Jadunk posted:Yes, most (maybe all?) new single handle shower valves have adjustable high temp stops but there are tons of existing single handle equipment that do not. I would probably say most single handle stuff in my area doesn't have a high temp limiter, hell a decent portion of it isn't even anti-scald. (lots of moen 1225 and pp avante in my area) Mine goes to 50C and the next step is >52 at which point I'd get the full 85C the heater can put out. It's also nice that it responds instantly when either water pressure drops. So no scalding shower because someone flushed the loo.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2016 22:03
|
|
|
Deedle posted:Perhaps this is a European thing, but don't all showers have thermostatic faucets? They cost the same as any other mixing faucet and have a convenient mechanism so you can't turn it above 38C by accident. No see that makes way too much sense. Here in Canada we prefer two taps that you have to fiddle with endlessly to get get a good temperature and pressure.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2016 22:47
|
|
|
n/m
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2016 23:44
|
|
|
Deedle posted:Perhaps this is a European thing, but don't all showers have thermostatic faucets? They cost the same as any other mixing faucet and have a convenient mechanism so you can't turn it above 38C by accident. No, and I doubt ALL showers do in europe. All newer stuff will as anti-scald valves have been required for years but they didn't require people to tear out existing showers to update them. Thermostatic (as in temps listed on the handle) still are not required. I'm kinda glad about that, setting those properly tends to be pita.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2016 22:13
|
|
|
I'm picking up a basin wrench to fix my water faucet. Should the 10" fixed ones be good enough for all my basin wrench needs that I'll ever come across, or is a 17" telescopic one worth the investment? (I reckon I'll be working on other people's houses in the future)
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 01:58
|
|
|
10 inches is usually enough to satisfy anyone. I can't think of any time I needed more than my 10 inch
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 02:04
|
|
|
Airborne Viking posted:I'm picking up a basin wrench to fix my water faucet. Should the 10" fixed ones be good enough for all my basin wrench needs that I'll ever come across, or is a 17" telescopic one worth the investment? (I reckon I'll be working on other people's houses in the future) I've needed the full extension on mine a number of times. Lots of funky sink/cabinet setups out there.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 22:17
|
|
|
sirr0bin posted:I've needed the full extension on mine a number of times. Lots of funky sink/cabinet setups out there. Same. Just grab the telescoping one by rigid.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2016 22:48
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:10 inches is usually enough to satisfy anyone. I can't think of any time I needed more than my 10 inch Try doing a utility sink with a 10 incher and get back to us.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2016 02:00
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Try doing a utility sink with a 10 incher and get back to us. Some people just go for utility, but ultimately, it's about satisfaction. You may need to take more than 10 inches, but for most people it's more than enough.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2016 02:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 21:36 |
|
|
kid sinister posted:Try doing a utility sink with a 10 incher and get back to us. I've never done a big utility sink but that is a point.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2016 03:11
|
|