Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

Iron Crowned: May 6, 2003; by Hand Knit

richyp posted:

Are they matte like VMC or slightly glossier like GW's stuff, also interesting that you like VMC metallic paints it's the one thing I actually prefer GW's version of.

Eh, I'm just trying to not give GW anymore money, and everything I've read about the PP metallics is that they look really cheap, VGC metallics are the easiest non-GW paint to acquire locally.

I'd say they're fairly matte with a slight gloss. I'd say the biggest downside to the PP paints is a large portion of them are "keyed" to Warmahordes.

# ? Feb 4, 2016 20:53

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# ? May 12, 2024 20:48

Avenging Dentist: Oct 1, 2005; oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

richyp posted:

Awesome, thanks for the list. Scanning it briefly I'm noticing a lack of my go to colour for practically everything...

Thanks, updated!

Iron Crowned posted:

Eh, I'm just trying to not give GW anymore money, and everything I've read about the PP metallics is that they look really cheap, VGC metallics are the easiest non-GW paint to acquire locally.

While I haven't had the chance to try them out yet, I got some Scale75 metallics from their new US shop and they look super cool.

Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Feb 4, 2016

# ? Feb 4, 2016 21:06

richyp: Dec 2, 2004; Grumpy old man

richyp posted:

EDIT: Just found a white primed model kicking around to demo the awesomeness of pale sand.

Quick and dirty skin (10 minute rush job as I hairdryered the wash to speed it up, so it's quite sloppy but the concept works).

Discovered because I have no flesh coloured paints.

1) Prime white, apply a couple of very thin layers of Pale Sand
2) Wash Agrax over skin
3) Re-apply thin layer of Pale Sand over almost all of the skin. (The darker tint will show through for free layering).
4) I Added a tiny drop of German Orange (it's almost a pinky orange, great for rust too). to the puddle of watered down Pale sand and glazed it over. Reapply a couple of areas with Pale sand for highlights.

Iron Crowned posted:

Eh, I'm just trying to not give GW anymore money, and everything I've read about the PP metallics is that they look really cheap, VGC metallics are the easiest non-GW paint to acquire locally.

I'd say they're fairly matte with a slight gloss. I'd say the biggest downside to the PP paints is a large portion of them are "keyed" to Warmahordes.

If I was painting it properly I'd do a darker orange/sand mix first and do a few more layers.

Yeah I've practically given up on GW paints except for the washes, just trying to find a reasonable alternative to their white primer, everything else I've tried has dried all sandy looking. Humbrol Acrylic Primer practically ruined the Infinity Stuff I'm working on, so much detail is lost and the paint isn't adhering too well.

# ? Feb 4, 2016 21:13

JoshTheStampede: Sep 8, 2004; come at me bro

I mostly have settled on a smattering of VMC and Reaper with a few specific colors of P3 I can't live without. I've picked up some Scale 75 and really love them, but it's early days and they are way different feeling than most.

If I had a catastrophic paint loss and had to start over id probably buy the whole set of Scale75, the Reaper skin tones, a dozen or so VMC colors I can't live without, and like 2 P3 colors.

E: oh also the GW washes.

# ? Feb 4, 2016 21:14

Avenging Dentist: Oct 1, 2005; oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

richyp posted:

Yeah I've practically given up on GW paints except for the washes, just trying to find a reasonable alternative to their white primer, everything else I've tried has dried all sandy looking. Humbrol Acrylic Primer practically ruined the Infinity Stuff I'm working on, so much detail is lost and the paint isn't adhering too well.

White primer is reportedly the hardest to get a good texture from. I bought some Tamiya Fine Grey Surface Primer since people love that poo poo. Too bad it's still too cold to do much priming here...

# ? Feb 4, 2016 21:16

JoshTheStampede: Sep 8, 2004; come at me bro

Being able to do good reliable white primer without being a meteorologist is like the biggest reason to get an airbrush, honestly.

# ? Feb 4, 2016 21:20

richyp: Dec 2, 2004; Grumpy old man

Avenging Dentist posted:

White primer is reportedly the hardest to get a good texture from. I bought some Tamiya Fine Grey Surface Primer since people love that poo poo. Too bad it's still too cold to do much priming here...

JoshTheStampede posted:

Being able to do good reliable white primer without being a meteorologist is like the biggest reason to get an airbrush, honestly.

Thank god it isn't just me. I'm storing the can indoors, shaking the ever loving poo poo out it, spraying in the garage then bringing them inside to dry. Having to explain to a 3 year old why he can't go in the room the other side of the glass doors where there are shiny white toy's sat asking to be picked up and thrown is "fun".

# ? Feb 4, 2016 21:27

Avenging Dentist: Oct 1, 2005; oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

JoshTheStampede posted:

Being able to do good reliable white primer without being a meteorologist is like the biggest reason to get an airbrush, honestly.

Yeah, it's why I gave up and went grey.

But then I'm also going off the deep end and polishing my pewter ( :wiggle:

) minis with steel wool to get a smoother surface.

# ? Feb 4, 2016 21:32

Cat Face Joe: Feb 20, 2005; goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes

Vallejo paint on gray til I die.

Though I've got some terrain I'll have to use the Garage Method for pretty soon.

# ? Feb 4, 2016 21:34

dexefiend: Apr 25, 2003; THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!

Angel Giraldez uses Sunny Skintone like you use that sand color. It works really well.

# ? Feb 4, 2016 21:52

Macdeo Lurjtux: Jul 5, 2011; BRRREADSTOOORRM!

Does anyone know of any video tutorials for painting greyscale?

# ? Feb 4, 2016 22:12

cultureulterior: Jan 27, 2004

So I'm going to do some custom fantasy model railroading, and one of the things I'd like to achieve is see-though crackle, like kirby crackle, with light coming from within from the cracks. Does anyone have any experience with something like this? I know there's transparent crackle paint, but I'm not sure if doing what I want is possible.

# ? Feb 4, 2016 22:13

richyp: Dec 2, 2004; Grumpy old man

dexefiend posted:

Angel Giraldez uses Sunny Skintone like you use that sand color. It works really well.

They're very similar tones, Sunny is like the last shot I posted i.e. Pale Sand with the tiniest amount of pinky-orange added. I used to have Sunny skintone but I think my bottle was bad as it came out like varnish rather than the rest of the paints in the set so I got used to using Pale Sand instead.

In actual model news, I think I might finish my first complete unit in three years tonight

# ? Feb 4, 2016 22:15

with a rebel yell she QQd: Jan 18, 2007; Villain

richyp posted:

I don't know what happened to those models (probably crushed under a box in the garage) otherwise I'd take a side shot of the plasma cannon guy that I cropped out of the image.

How the hell do you paint faces like that. Looking at painting like this I realise how much I suck.

# ? Feb 4, 2016 22:28

Fuegan: Aug 23, 2008

Crosspost from the 40k thread.

Incoming image dump. I'm pretty happy with how this turned out.

# ? Feb 4, 2016 22:28

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

richyp posted:

just trying to find a reasonable alternative to their white primer, everything else I've tried has dried all sandy looking.

I've had really good luck with the Badger Stynylrez primers. They come in big gently caress-off 4oz bottles and go on as well as Vallejo primer with a brush or an airbrush.

# ? Feb 4, 2016 23:28

JoshTheStampede: Sep 8, 2004; come at me bro

Macdeo Lurjtux posted:

Does anyone know of any video tutorials for painting greyscale?

Miniature Mentor has one with Jen Haley painting a monochrome ranger dude. It's sepia tone and not true greyscale but the idea is the same. She paints the whole model with just reaper walnut brown and VMC ivory.

# ? Feb 4, 2016 23:34

richyp: Dec 2, 2004; Grumpy old man

Wierre posted:

How the hell do you paint faces like that. Looking at painting like this I realise how much I suck.

Washes are a wonderful thing.

Real answer I got lucky on those guys with how the washes dried. I've cropped the full-size image of the face but it's a little blurry and from memory this was what I did:

I did these guys with black primer because "Grimdark" etc.. Also painted the head before anything else on the model.

code:

Painted head with a brown.
Washed with black, like soaked the hell out of it.
Drybrushed the whole thing with the original brown.
Added the magical Pale Sand(tm) to the brown in very small amounts painting everything but the recesses, over and over.
Add a dot of Pale Sand/Bleached Bone/Ushabti whatever to the eye sockets. 
Washed the face with Agrax, and drop some Nuln oil into the eye sockets. (covers up sloppy paint job and tones down the eyes).
Pick out various prominent features with the last highlight colour (Brown + lots of Pale Sand). You can see in the close up where I brushed this one: cheeks, nose, brow.

It sounds like a lot of effort but its pretty quick to do, and it's a lot easier to rush than flat surface's as you'll see below.

End of :words:

Not quite finished the starter set yet, still need another highlight stage on the remaining 4 guys, but that'll have to wait. Good progress since I started these guys the other day though:

Slimnoid posted:

I've had really good luck with the Badger Stynylrez primers. They come in big gently caress-off 4oz bottles and go on as well as Vallejo primer with a brush or an airbrush.

I'm seeing this word a lot, I can feel a purchase coming next month, and my wallet is going to hate me.

# ? Feb 4, 2016 23:43

with a rebel yell she QQd: Jan 18, 2007; Villain

richyp posted:

code:

Painted head with a brown.
Washed with black, like soaked the hell out of it.
Drybrushed the whole thing with the original brown.
Added the magical Pale Sand(tm) to the brown in very small amounts painting everything but the recesses, over and over.
Add a dot of Pale Sand/Bleached Bone/Ushabti whatever to the eye sockets. 
Washed the face with Agrax, and drop some Nuln oil into the eye sockets. (covers up sloppy paint job and tones down the eyes).
Pick out various prominent features with the last highlight colour (Brown + lots of Pale Sand). You can see in the close up where I brushed this one: cheeks, nose, brow.

Thanks for this, I always have this feeling that I can do zombie skin, orc skin, goblin skin, troll skin. But anything with human skin tones is just magic.
I've been slowly building my human team for Blood Bowl so planing to put this into practice soon enough. Also as I've been striping and preparing Morg 'n' Thorg for priming I started to think, how the hell does one paint stubble? If you guys got any advice, don't hold back!

# ? Feb 5, 2016 00:11

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

richyp posted:

I'm seeing this word a lot, I can feel a purchase coming next month, and my wallet is going to hate me.

Airbrushes let you get primer and basecoats on so quickly and smoothly that those alone are worth the purchase. Being able to varnish models at any time of the year is also a huge bonus and is what I use my airbrush for 90% of the time.

With that in mind, unless you want to do some seriously fine lines, I'd suggest getting the Patriot 105 for an airbrush. It's a total workhorse and is perfect for priming, basecoating, varnishes, and even glow effects. The TC-20T is a decent air compressor that goes for under $100, and while it's not whisper-quiet it's also not going to break the bank. All told you can grab the compressor and Patriot for under $200 and they will last for years.

# ? Feb 5, 2016 00:24

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Alright I'm not gonna weird out too much but for anyone looking to buy foam, here's what I've learned in my journey. I'm going to stick to Feldherr, KR Multicase, Battlefoam, and generic 13x7.5 trays for this. This is also very US-centric.

Picking a system- Basically you've got 4 options:
1- Bags that hold boxes (Feldherr, KR Multicase)
2- Bags from manufacturers that don't hold boxes, though boxes are offered (Battlefoam, some Feldherr stuff)
3- Bags with no vendor-supplied boxes (Gameplus etc)
4- Hard cases (KR, Battlefoam, whatever else)

If you aren't buying a bag for your foam, why not? I don't know why you wouldn't. Bags are awesome. They make carrying your foam just swell. Pretty much every offering you will find sells bags. You should buy a bag.

Let's look at long-term storage. Feldherr and KR Multicase supply boxes, and you can stick the boxes in their bags! It's very convenient. Battlefoam doesn't put boxes in bags, but they offer boxes that fit their foam. Gameplus and other 13x7.5 tray suppliers don't offer boxes, but you can easily buy boxes with internal dimensions of 15x13 so you can put two trays side by side up to however many vertical inches you have available.

Feldherr: Less expensive, but the boxes are cardstock or something. I've handled one in person, they look sturdy enough I guess but I prefer the corrugated stuff.
KR Multicase: Middling price, but if you gently caress up a box they ain't cheap.
Battlefoam: The boxes are cheap for the volume, but they get you on foam.
Gameplus: Cheap. This is the one I went with after also buying LOTS of KR stuff, which I still like. However you have to buy like 25 boxes at a time which if you run out of you got problems.

On the foam itself, Feldherr's foam is a relatively stiff foam that will be very protective but I wonder about its effect on paint. But you sealed your minis, so they should be ok. They offer a very wide range of trays including standard pick and pluck. KR has a somewhat complicated system for their tray range, which should handle just about anything, but there's a learning curve (it's worth learning). I like KR's foam the most, as it's very soft. Battlefoam is also a stiffish foam, and the one and only reason you should use them in my opinion is if you're going to be buying custom-cut foam, which is expensive. Gameplus and other generic trays are very cost effective, but you have to do the pick and pluck thing.

Finally, these systems are not interchangeable because their trays are all different sizes. Also don't buy Battlefoam.

# ? Feb 5, 2016 03:28

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Bonus progress pic, need to figure out what to do with this cloth and bone

# ? Feb 5, 2016 03:54

Avenging Dentist: Oct 1, 2005; oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

signalnoise posted:

On the foam itself, Feldherr's foam is a relatively stiff foam that will be very protective but I wonder about its effect on paint.

Weird, that's the opposite of what I've heard from everyone else.

# ? Feb 5, 2016 04:04

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Avenging Dentist posted:

Weird, that's the opposite of what I've heard from everyone else.

I'm comparing to KR, and theirs is super soft. Feldherr foam is roughly the stiffness of a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser

# ? Feb 5, 2016 04:11

nesbit37: Dec 12, 2003; Emperor of Rome
(500 BC - 500 AD)

Quoting myself from way back in this thread for the storage talk. I'm still a big fan of this method using jewelry trays and magnets for transport and storage. Very cost effective, especially for this 10mm infantry stuff.

nesbit37 posted:

I finished painting and basing all of the armies for the battle of five armies last week. I'll put pictures up of them all once I finish the last 9 heroes for the set. Wanted to post now because an awesome storage solution arrived for me last week and I love it so far. It's using gem trays and gem transportation cases for miniatures, taken from this blog: http://belchedfromthedepths.blogspot.com/2013/05/the-quest-for-perfect-miniatures.html

The hard cases are a little over $60 for an aluminum one that holds 12" worth of trays. The trays come in 1,2 or 3 inches and you can combine them with a little extra effort if needed. The 1" trays fit most of my 10mm, the 2" trays fit most 28mm minis and the 3" fit most 28mm cavalry. I just added some flex metal I had around to the bottom of the trays and everything holds fast and transports great, and it is helping organizing things for painting/basing/organization workflow.

The vendor gems on display was great as well. Two of the 2 inch trays were shattered and the corner cracked on the case by FedEx when shipping and they just sent me free replacements that arrived today.

# ? Feb 5, 2016 04:24

Avenging Dentist: Oct 1, 2005; oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

signalnoise posted:

I'm comparing to KR, and theirs is super soft. Feldherr foam is roughly the stiffness of a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser

How does it compare to something like the old-rear end GW foam or Sabol? (I don't have any Magic Erasers on hand to examine.)

One of the main reasons I'm considering Feldherr is because I can grab a few of their board game trays to use for poo poo like Blood Rage in the same order. They also seem to have nicer pre-cut configurations overall.

# ? Feb 5, 2016 04:48

parabolic: Jul 21, 2005; good night, speedfriend

nesbit37 posted:

Quoting myself from way back in this thread for the storage talk. I'm still a big fan of this method using jewelry trays and magnets for transport and storage. Very cost effective, especially for this 10mm infantry stuff.

I did this method as well, but I kept the 'spacer' trays unglued, so I have a lot more flexibility. Putting in the steel sheets is simple, and magnets for minis are relatively cheap. The only downside for me is that I mostly transport 28mm WMH stuff that often takes a tray and spacer to fit vertically. The upside is that the whole case is big enough to take 6 trays, so easily two lists and all miscellaneous tokens. For any smaller scale stuff, it's flat out ideal.

# ? Feb 5, 2016 05:17

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

Avenging Dentist posted:

How does it compare to something like the old-rear end GW foam or Sabol? (I don't have any Magic Erasers on hand to examine.)

One of the main reasons I'm considering Feldherr is because I can grab a few of their board game trays to use for poo poo like Blood Rage in the same order. They also seem to have nicer pre-cut configurations overall.

I'd say it's basically equivalent to Sabol but with a higher bubble density. I would also say though that configuration trumps foam quality. It's why I hate battlefoam. They have the perfect product but their price and management are poo poo.

# ? Feb 5, 2016 05:19

Gravitas Shortfall: Jul 17, 2007; Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.

signalnoise posted:

Bonus progress pic, need to figure out what to do with this cloth and bone

Looking good, man. Bone should be easy, just base coat it with a bone colour, hit it with a brown wash or two, then highlight with the bone again. Add white highlights if you can be bothered.

# ? Feb 5, 2016 05:45

Avenging Dentist: Oct 1, 2005; oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

Yeah, the Battlefoam guy sounds like he's a real big piece of poo poo, so even if their product were what I wanted (it's not), I wouldn't buy from them.

For the rest of the class:

quote:

Plus, in a case in which he says it is defamatory to say he physically assaults critics, he [the Battlefoam CEO] shrewdly jokes (Kind of � I think) about punching critics in the face.

Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Feb 5, 2016

# ? Feb 5, 2016 05:47

El Estrago Bonito: Dec 17, 2010; Scout Finch Bitch

Since I'm old and set in my ways I use Sabol for everything. I have Army Transport trays and cases that are 10+ years old and they're still kicking around and doing work. Too be fair I also own one of those old GW hardcases that are basically unkillable that I use for infantry.

# ? Feb 5, 2016 06:47

krushgroove: Oct 23, 2007; Disapproving look

TheCosmicMuffet posted:

If you bent the pin it's not the end of the world. You can get a replacement. I've never seen an airbrush that doesn't basically fit together like a ball-point-pen. Unscrew, put in a new pin, and try again.

Actually you can repair a 'hooked' needle, too, Badger are about to sell a maintenance set that includes a file for repairing a bent or damaged needle, I'll be giving it a try as soon as I can.

Slimnoid posted:

I've had really good luck with the Badger Stynylrez primers. They come in big gently caress-off 4oz bottles and go on as well as Vallejo primer with a brush or an airbrush.

Hell, they do 32 ounce bottles! I have to decant mine into smaller bottles for convenience. The new yellow, green and red colors are pretty good starting points too.

Slimnoid posted:

With that in mind, unless you want to do some seriously fine lines, I'd suggest getting the Patriot 105 for an airbrush. It's a total workhorse and is perfect for priming, basecoating, varnishes, and even glow effects. The TC-20T is a decent air compressor that goes for under $100, and while it's not whisper-quiet it's also not going to break the bank. All told you can grab the compressor and Patriot for under $200 and they will last for years.

True that - and how did you condence all my wordy airbrush talk in the OP to 4 sentences?

# ? Feb 5, 2016 14:54

Dr. Gargunza: May 19, 2011; He damned me for a eunuch,
and my mother for a whore.; Fun Shoe

krushgroove posted:

Actually you can repair a 'hooked' needle, too, Badger are about to sell a maintenance set that includes a file for repairing a bent or damaged needle, I'll be giving it a try as soon as I can.

Oh, that's fantastic! I managed to slightly bend the needle on my Sotar after about a week, and it still occasionally gives me trouble. Any idea when they're going to be releasing it? (Also, are they making those kits that make you not drop the nozzle end cap after cleaning and have to spend the next 20 minutes deeply scanning your entire basement floor with a flashlight?)

# ? Feb 5, 2016 15:14

richyp: Dec 2, 2004; Grumpy old man

Slimnoid posted:

With that in mind, unless you want to do some seriously fine lines, I'd suggest getting the Patriot 105 for an airbrush. It's a total workhorse and is perfect for priming, basecoating, varnishes, and even glow effects. The TC-20T is a decent air compressor that goes for under $100, and while it's not whisper-quiet it's also not going to break the bank. All told you can grab the compressor and Patriot for under $200 and they will last for years.

krushgroove posted:

Airbrush stuff

Thanks for the info, I am seriously tempted to dip my feet once more into the world of smooth priming and pre-shading/lighting but I might have to hold back on splashing out too much. I still have a compressor from earlier attempts.

I had a quick scan through amazon for "cheaper" alternatives at least for practicing and came across this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Simair-Mult...s=sp35+airbrush

�35/$50 seems to good to be true, but would make my wallet slightly less sad as a practice setup. Anything obviously bad/dodgy that I'm missing? I'm thinking main uses initially will be for priming/basing and adding zenithal style highlighting.

richyp posted:

Not quite finished the starter set yet, still need another highlight stage on the remaining 4 guys, but that'll have to wait. Good progress since I started these guys the other day though:

I did get a spare hour today to finish highlighting the Morat Starter set, just need to get/make some nice bases for them now.

# ? Feb 5, 2016 15:43

signalnoise: Mar 7, 2008; i was told my old av was distracting

I have found that any urethane based primer works basically the same in terms of performance, Vallejo is just hobby branded.

# ? Feb 5, 2016 16:07

Gareth Gobulcoque: Jan 10, 2008

richyp posted:

I did get a spare hour today to finish highlighting the Morat Starter set, just need to get/make some nice bases for them now.

Tight.

# ? Feb 5, 2016 16:13

ijyt: Apr 10, 2012

That is killer but is the second guy from the left blind firing?

# ? Feb 5, 2016 16:21

krushgroove: Oct 23, 2007; Disapproving look

Dr. Gargunza posted:

Oh, that's fantastic! I managed to slightly bend the needle on my Sotar after about a week, and it still occasionally gives me trouble. Any idea when they're going to be releasing it? (Also, are they making those kits that make you not drop the nozzle end cap after cleaning and have to spend the next 20 minutes deeply scanning your entire basement floor with a flashlight?)

Yeah the exposed needle on the Sotar makes it really vulnerable, especially when spraying really really close (hooking the needle on a model messes up the needle AND the model!). The Patriot is the same but you can get 'horned' needle tips for both that give you protection for the very end of the needle.

This is the maintenance kit Badger are releasing:

It comes with instructions on how to fix various things, the nail file there is the file for resharpening the needle tip, Ken (the owner of Badger) told me that it's the same thing that the techs at the Badger factory do to fix bent needles. You can bend the hook back at the tip of the needle with your fingernail, then use the file to finish shaping it into position. With some practice and a good eye you can get it back to where it needs to be. It sounds like one of those super detailed things that people have to practice for years but I'm told it's pretty easy.

richyp posted:

�35/$50 seems to good to be true, but would make my wallet slightly less sad as a practice setup. Anything obviously bad/dodgy that I'm missing? I'm thinking main uses initially will be for priming/basing and adding zenithal style highlighting.

That Simair stuff looks like a brand name slapped on some clone equipment, but for �35 it might be worth a shot. You can also try fixing the airbrush you have, just soak it in white spirit or cellulose thinner to dissolve the paints that's clogged in there, that's my go-to if I screw up and leave paint in the airbrush overnight.

# ? Feb 5, 2016 16:35

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

richyp posted:

Thanks for the info, I am seriously tempted to dip my feet once more into the world of smooth priming and pre-shading/lighting but I might have to hold back on splashing out too much. I still have a compressor from earlier attempts.

I had a quick scan through amazon for "cheaper" alternatives at least for practicing and came across this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Simair-Mult...s=sp35+airbrush

�35/$50 seems to good to be true, but would make my wallet slightly less sad as a practice setup. Anything obviously bad/dodgy that I'm missing? I'm thinking main uses initially will be for priming/basing and adding zenithal style highlighting.

The Patriot 105 goes for just a little more than that one, and I can personally attest to how good the Patriot is.

If you want something cheap and disposable to practice on, there's always the blue box special. I've used a bunch of these in the past when I was first starting off, and while their quality is pretty crap--I'd often have to replace them about twice a year--they ARE dirt cheap and you won't too feel bad if you gently caress them up. For base-coating and priming I'd stick with the 0.5mm sized ones, since they don't clog as often and last a little longer.

# ? Feb 5, 2016 18:00

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# ? May 12, 2024 20:48

JoshTheStampede: Sep 8, 2004; come at me bro

Yeah if you think of the eBay special airbrush as disposable it's fine. You WILL break it though. They're super hard to clean properly, almost as if they were designed to be, and stripping it to clean it better is like a coinflip for whether you'll tear the barrel clean in half.

I second the Patriot suggestion, best brush ever.

# ? Feb 5, 2016 18:19

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