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I have a 2002 f150 4x4 5 speed manual transmission. while i drive down the road i hear a whine that sounds like my camaro did before the rear-end threw a gear. I fiddled with the 4x4 shift going from 2H to neutral and 4L and the sound got a lot louder. I put it back into 2wd and went down the road a little bit and the sound went back to its previous state. Am I right to think this probably has something to do with the transfer case, and if it goes bad does that mean I lose the ability to go or just lose 4wd?
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Feb 7, 2016 07:26
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Wulfolme posted:Is this the place to ask about wiring a new receiver into a really old car? My 24 year old cassette deck unit locked up, so I tried to replace it with a cheap box that had an aux in. I ain't gettin' the right wires together and I can't get it to the point of turning on. I need help. I have all the wiring guides I've been working from, if anyone here would know what to tell me. Did you buy the wiring adapter harness?
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Feb 7, 2016 07:33
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Godholio posted:Did you buy the wiring adapter harness? No. The connectors are ruined and everything is loose. I have 15 wires coming out of the car and 12 wires coming out of the new stereo box. This is probably what the 15 car wires are. I didn't find any other diagram with the correct wire colors.  There was also a tiny sticker that fell off the long connector identifying the wires, and it more or less matches up with that first image. And this is what the 12 wires from the stereo box claim to be.  I have +12V to +12V, ground to amp ground, "ACC" to "MEMORY", and "REMOTE AMP WIRE" to "AMP TRIGGER," and assuming this thing works at all that setup is not correct.
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Feb 7, 2016 08:51
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Slavvy posted:But you measure displacement by calculating the piston stroke volume and adding the volume of the combustion chamber It's just the stroke. Displacement is the amount of air drawn into the cylinder on the intake stroke. Because the combustion chamber's volume remains static, the displacement is only affected by the bore and stroke of the engine.
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Feb 7, 2016 12:33
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It's literally the amount of air displaced by the piston.
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Feb 7, 2016 12:35
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Thank you. Knew I was right.
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Feb 7, 2016 15:52
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Wulfolme posted:No. The connectors are ruined and everything is loose. I have 15 wires coming out of the car and 12 wires coming out of the new stereo box. If you've got the power hooked up and it's not coming on, you've probably popped a fuse in the car and/or the radio itself. Probably why you lost your dome light as well while you can poking around under there.
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Feb 7, 2016 16:31
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I've been leasing a 2013 MKVI GTI; my lease is up at the end of March. Even though I love the car/it's a lot of fun to drive, I've had too many mechanical issues for a car with less than 30K miles to want to buy it out of lease/go with VW again (on my third water pump, door locks died, etc.). I've been looking at buying a used car instead of financing/leasing something new, my budget is about $15K. For some reason I'm in love with the Lexus LS, and I've seen quite a few within my price range. I've heard that there are some major maintenance issues you need to watch for (something about the air suspension failing/fluid leaks dripping onto the alternator), but otherwise they're pretty reliable cars. Am I crazy for wanting to buy one?
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Feb 7, 2016 17:54
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No, you would be crazy if you bought out your lease 
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Feb 7, 2016 19:47
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Does anyone have a recommendation for removing tiny scratches from a car?
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Feb 7, 2016 19:55
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My clutch pedal stop sort of looks like a CO2 canister, and it screws into a plate and the end of it stops the pedals upward travel. The other end has wires plugging into it, what exactly do those wires do? Some sort of sensor to see if the clutch is engaged? 2007 Civic Si
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Feb 7, 2016 20:03
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PaintVagrant posted:My clutch pedal stop sort of looks like a CO2 canister, and it screws into a plate and the end of it stops the pedals upward travel. The other end has wires plugging into it, what exactly do those wires do? Some sort of sensor to see if the clutch is engaged? 2007 Civic Si Probably for the clutch safety switch, so you have to depress the clutch pedal to start the car.
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Feb 7, 2016 20:09
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My wife's 98 civic is acting up again with the exact same symptoms as before. It pulls to the side and vibrates like crazy while braking but it's inconsistent. Sometimes the car drives perfectly, sometimes it doesn't. I've replaced the rotors/pads/calipers 3 times over the last 2-3 years,the brake fluid twice, rubber brake lines once. Each time after making those repairs the car is fine for 3-8 months (10k-12k miles). The struts/shocks were done in the last 18 months too. I haven't touched the master cylinder, tie rods, or control arms and I'm not sure the last time those were done. We haven't had an alignment in a really long time but I don't think that has anything to do with this. This car seriously just needs to last another month or two so I don't want to spend a fortune on it but she needs the dumb thing for her 45 mile commute. Any ideas?
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Feb 7, 2016 20:16
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STEREO PROTIP: use a AA battery on what you think are speaker wires. It will cause the speaker to make a popping sound so you can identify it, and if you gently caress up and hit the power antenna or other wires, you won't destroy anything. Also, even in shitboxes, the speaker wires are usually color coded to each other. Purple/Purple w/white stripe, etc.
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Feb 7, 2016 20:19
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Ozmiander posted:If you've got the power hooked up and it's not coming on, you've probably popped a fuse in the car and/or the radio itself. Probably why you lost your dome light as well while you can poking around under there. Well gosh golly willickers. Should have disconnected the battery before I hosed with some wires, who'd have thunk. It works now. Thank you.
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Feb 7, 2016 22:40
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Valithan posted:my budget is about $15K. For some reason I'm in love with the Lexus LS, and I've seen quite a few within my price range. I've heard that there are some major maintenance issues you need to watch for (something about the air suspension failing/fluid leaks dripping onto the alternator), but otherwise they're pretty reliable cars. Am I crazy for wanting to buy one? They are amazing cars. PS fluid dripping on the alternator was common in the older LS's, as the fluid tank and PS pump was directly above the alternator. It only became a problem if left unchecked for a while, and people even sold little steel 'alternator covers' to deflect the dripping fluid (instead of spending $10 to reseal the pump). Airbags, I dunno, if they are anything like the Soarer bags then they will live waaaaaay longer than you'd ever expect them to, but when they fail it's $$$ to get some more, even from a junkyard because everyone's will fail at the same time. They are all generally crazy reliable. What year are you looking for? I know more about the early ones than the later ones. The 3rd gen 2000-2003 with the 3UZ had radiator issues - if you ran lovely coolant, it would eat away at the internal trans cooler (its inside the radiator), and would leak water into your transmission, killing it. Not a problem if you run Toyota Forlife coolant, or swap to an external oil cooler. That alternator fluid was in the 1st and 2nd gens with the 1UZ/1UZ-vvti. Not sure about the 3UZ, the PS pump is still above the alternator, but maybe they fixed the leak issues? I'm currently looking at GS430's. Same engine, lighter (lol) car. I also kinda want a GS450h, but that doesn't have a UZ series motor so....
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Feb 7, 2016 22:43
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Yeah, this is a good tip. A cheap cable tracer is also a good investment for things like this, and can be used on almost all car systems (except lambda sensor wires on a 1UZ).
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Feb 7, 2016 22:49
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:They are all generally crazy reliable. What year are you looking for? I know more about the early ones than the later ones. The 3rd gen 2000-2003 with the 3UZ had radiator issues - if you ran lovely coolant, it would eat away at the internal trans cooler (its inside the radiator), and would leak water into your transmission, killing it. Not a problem if you run Toyota Forlife coolant, or swap to an external oil cooler. That alternator fluid was in the 1st and 2nd gens with the 1UZ/1UZ-vvti. Not sure about the 3UZ, the PS pump is still above the alternator, but maybe they fixed the leak issues? Glad to hear about the reliability, that makes me feel better about picking one up. I was mostly looking at the 3rd gen since there's quite a few of those for sale in my area (seems like a lot of 2002's); haven't seen too many 1st gens around me, though I'm open to those as well. I actually forgot about the GS430's, though I'm a big fan of those as well. Which years are you looking at for the GS?
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Feb 7, 2016 23:46
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Follow up question: Is there an unreliable used lexus model?
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Feb 8, 2016 00:02
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PaintVagrant posted:Follow up question: Is there an unreliable used lexus model? The newer you go, the worse the minor niggling electrical and trim issues get. The modern ones are almost german-like. Mechanically they're all solid though, although the LS hybrids get the occasional freak glitch that costs big bucks to fix.
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Feb 8, 2016 00:08
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Valithan posted:Glad to hear about the reliability, that makes me feel better about picking one up. I was mostly looking at the 3rd gen since there's quite a few of those for sale in my area (seems like a lot of 2002's); haven't seen too many 1st gens around me, though I'm open to those as well. I actually forgot about the GS430's, though I'm a big fan of those as well. Which years are you looking at for the GS? Was looking at the 2005-2007 GS430's, although the older ones (despite being ugly) are cheap as poo poo right now. I can pick up a 2000 GS430 for £1k no problem. Heed my warning about the trans cooler on the 3rd gen LS430. If you don't get a car with a (near) full dealer service history, go change your radiator to be on the safe side (and ebay the old one as 'good as new'). Or....pick up a trans-hosed one for £2k like I almost did, then put a £1k junkyard trans in it... Edit: PaintVagrant posted:Follow up question: Is there an unreliable used lexus model? Well all the ones with V8's are loving great and if you're buying a Lexus that's not a V8 then you're doing it wrong  .(Apparently the CT200h is a pile of poo poo) Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Feb 8, 2016 |
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Feb 8, 2016 01:01
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Was looking at the 2005-2007 GS430's, although the older ones (despite being ugly) are cheap as poo poo right now. I can pick up a 2000 GS430 for £1k no problem. The CT200h is quite literally a 30 series prius with different bodywork and IRS. So yeah.
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Feb 8, 2016 01:34
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PaintVagrant posted:My clutch pedal stop sort of looks like a CO2 canister, and it screws into a plate and the end of it stops the pedals upward travel. The other end has wires plugging into it, what exactly do those wires do? Some sort of sensor to see if the clutch is engaged? 2007 Civic Si Cruise control switch.
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Feb 8, 2016 05:17
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who gives a gently caress about cars (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Feb 8, 2016 13:27
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loving alternators, how do they work?
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Feb 8, 2016 16:56
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Hi all, quick little problem I hoped to get some opinions on. My fiancee drives a leased 2015 Honda Fit LX (still under warranty). She's a beginner driver and has had her share of scrapes and bumps, including a few against the curb while parallel parking. She complained to me that the car was clicking at slow speeds, and would click faster until about 40 mph when it would quiet down. I don't know much about cars but did a quick visual check and saw the front passenger wheel and hubcap were pretty banged up, and that was definitely where the clicking came from. It looks like the rim is dented. She took the car to the Honda dealer since she was overdue for an oil change anyway. They quoted her $99 to fix alignment, and $400 to repair the rim. A quick google search shows $400 for rim repair to be obscene. So my questions are as follows: 1) is $400 as terribly exorbitant as it seems? 2) Assuming she may have misheard, is $400 appropriate to replace the wheel entirely? How much should we be looking at to replace or repair? 3) Is it a serious problem to continue driving on a bent rim? I have all manner of faith in her, but sort of doubt this will be the last time she hits the curb and don't want to throw away money on a wheel that is bound to hit a lot of curbs in the future.
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Feb 8, 2016 16:58
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Does anybody have a Chevy Traverse with the factory roof racks? I wanted to know if these things are strong enough to safely tie a 60 lb kayak to and head down the highway at speed.
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Feb 8, 2016 17:20
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CronoGamer posted:Hi all, quick little problem I hoped to get some opinions on. My fiancee drives a leased 2015 Honda Fit LX (still under warranty). She's a beginner driver and has had her share of scrapes and bumps, including a few against the curb while parallel parking. She complained to me that the car was clicking at slow speeds, and would click faster until about 40 mph when it would quiet down. I don't know much about cars but did a quick visual check and saw the front passenger wheel and hubcap were pretty banged up, and that was definitely where the clicking came from. It looks like the rim is dented. 1 - yes 2 - no 3 - yes Take it to a trusted Indie shop/wheel repair specialist. Also maybe check local yards/ craigslist for a matching wheel a save yourself some more cash. Car-part.com is a good way to find parts without calling a bunch of junkyards.
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Feb 8, 2016 17:20
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CronoGamer posted:My fiancee drives a leased 2015 Honda Fit LX (still under warranty). She's a beginner driver and has had her share of scrapes and bumps, including a few against the curb while parallel parking. You should spend some time with her teaching her how to know the corners of her vehicle. In a lease you are in theory only paying depreciation on a vehicle, which is going to be greater for all the bumps and grinds. The obvious starter suggestion is she should be driving WAY slower when parallel parking or coming up to curbs in general. Think half off the brake, not 10% on the accelerator. Wheels and tires can take some gentle bumps against curbs with only superficial damage. If she has a backup camera, it's hopefully as good as the one in the '13 civic, use it. Setup some rubber bins or something for her to gently bump into to know where the front and rear of the car are, then have her drive within 5" of them. Have her slowly drift left over some center reflectors on an unused road, then maintain the bumping for as long as she can, and have her note where on the windshield the line intersects.
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Feb 8, 2016 18:05
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Would a bent rim cause "clicking"? And it would quiet down at speed? I bent a rim (downhill snow drifting gone wrong) and I would feel a vibration that got worse at speed, but I didn't hear anything.
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Feb 8, 2016 18:10
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CronoGamer posted:Hi all, quick little problem I hoped to get some opinions on. My fiancee drives a leased 2015 Honda Fit LX (still under warranty). She's a beginner driver and has had her share of scrapes and bumps, including a few against the curb while parallel parking. She complained to me that the car was clicking at slow speeds, and would click faster until about 40 mph when it would quiet down. I don't know much about cars but did a quick visual check and saw the front passenger wheel and hubcap were pretty banged up, and that was definitely where the clicking came from. It looks like the rim is dented. If they're just steelies with hubcaps replacing the hub with a good used or even new one is way cheaper
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Feb 8, 2016 18:12
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I recently bought a 2014 Mercedes C300. I am currently at 30,000 miles with a manufacturer warranty until 50k. This is my first fairly new expensive vehicle and am trying to decide if a supplemental warranty through Carsense (where i bought it) or a third party makes any sense. What is the general consensus on extended auto warranties?
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Feb 8, 2016 18:29
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CronoGamer posted:1) is $400 as terribly exorbitant as it seems? Well I once bought a new steel wheel for a Peugeot 206 from the dealer and it cost me £25, so yeah that's quite a lot.
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Feb 8, 2016 18:54
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Godholio posted:loving alternators, how do they work? Q: what happens if you put a spinning magnet inside another magnet?? A: probably an explosion or something
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Feb 8, 2016 18:55
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Godholio posted:loving alternators, how do they work? Electricity comes out when you spin the spinny bit. https://www.google.com/search?q=how+do+alternators+work Edit: lol that https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=loving+alternators+how+do+they+work gives you similar results.
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Feb 8, 2016 18:56
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Godholio posted:loving alternators, how do they work? They just do. Until they don't. Then you replace them. What?
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Feb 8, 2016 19:01
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tactlessbastard posted:They just do. Until they don't. Then you replace them. What? Unless they're externally regulated (like godholio's is, iirc), in which case you get to play the game of guess-n-check.
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Feb 8, 2016 19:04
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cr0y posted:I recently bought a 2014 Mercedes C300. I am currently at 30,000 miles with a manufacturer warranty until 50k. This is my first fairly new expensive vehicle and am trying to decide if a supplemental warranty through Carsense (where i bought it) or a third party makes any sense. What is the general consensus on extended auto warranties? If you do, buy it the day before your other one expires, or make sure it actually extends you warranty. You can wind up paying for double warranty coverage which is super bogus. The most important thing you can do right now is spend time finding a reputable independent mechanic for when the factory warranty expires. Once it expires never go back to the dealer except for recall work. Your service light will come on a month before it expires for you to come in and they try to either sell you the extension or a new car. Talk it up with the service writer and try to get a oil change, brake fluid, pads, and rotors if you can muster it while you discuss the policy. Get the service order written up while you read the glossy brochures. Seem excited. The price is negotiable but don't let on you know that until the service order is written up. I got all of this from my service writer as he saw dollar signs in me, third set of pads/fluid in the few years I had owned the car. I would personally only buy an extended "bumper to bumper" warranty. The drive train isn't what fails typically, it's the random electronics. If you get a third party warranty, see if your third party mechanic likes it. I bought the Mercury one. So far, 0 claims, but I only have 35k miles on my 2009 Z4.
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Feb 8, 2016 19:05
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Christobevii3 posted:Reset the security, 4th post. Not sure on fan noise. This trick worked in that it got the car to unlock itself but the battery was still totally empty so it couldn't actually run. So we pulled it out and plugged it to a charger overnight then tried again today. The car started in the first go without any trouble but there is still a really loud fan noise coming from the front of the car which I suspect is what drained the battery. I'm probably being paranoid but I unplugged the negative port to avoid emptying the battery again, I'll just scew it back on when I go to work tomorrow and then try to find a mechanic that can look into the fan problem if it's anything I actually need to worry about. I googled it and it seems to be some sort of cooling thingy some cars do but it's freezing winter outside and the car has just been standing for a few days so I doubt the engine needs any further cooling. That being said I don't know jack poo poo about cars beyond the bare basics everyone and their dog knows so I could be being really stupid about all of this and probably am. FreudianSlippers fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Feb 8, 2016 |
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Feb 8, 2016 19:31
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Uthor posted:Would a bent rim cause "clicking"? And it would quiet down at speed? It could but could be a ball joint about to fail. When you hit a hard bump on the highway and it fails you will be lucky to not lose control in to a wall or flip. Get these checked. Also could be CV joint which is catastrophic too. If sway bar end links you at least won't wreck horrifically. Get these checked if you like your spouse or get a large life insurance policy if you're trying to kill her. Get a used rim off eBay. Christobevii3 fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Feb 8, 2016 |
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Feb 8, 2016 21:41
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