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kid sinister posted:No problem. To be honest, I'd almost be scared to see a garbage disposal that required a whole 20 amps. The only kitchen appliance I know of that requires a 20 amp receptacle is this one, star of the "Will It Blend?" Youtube series.  Jesus christ that thing uses more current than my lawn mower.
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Feb 2, 2016 02:31
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To put it in perspective, my kiln for ceramics draws 20A and sits on a 30A breaker. It reaches 2200+ degrees Fahrenheit.
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Feb 2, 2016 04:08
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kid sinister posted:edit: I've never checked it out myself, but I've heard rumors that for the cheap ones anyway, 15A and 20A outlets are exactly the same, it's just that the there's plastic covering the 20A sideways slot on the face. My friend worked for Pass and Legrand making receptacles. All their grades are all made of precisely the same internals, but go through a final QA check step. The ones with the high contact spring force are hospital grade. The ones with particularly low contact resistance become 20A, the better-than-average ones become spec grade, and the rest are the $.59 ones you see at the big box. They cost about $.48 each to make (apparently $.40 in parts and $.08 in labor), and the company makes up the money required to test the things in the price of the "better" outlets.
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Feb 2, 2016 11:41
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kid sinister posted:No problem. To be honest, I'd almost be scared to see a garbage disposal that required a whole 20 amps. The only kitchen appliance I know of that requires a 20 amp receptacle is this one, star of the "Will It Blend?" Youtube series. I was going to mention the 3 phase disposal I used when working in a large commercial kitchen, but apparently at 480 V it only pulls 5.5 amps. I guess that still works out to 22 amps at 120 V? (it was a 3 HP Hobart) That thing legitimately scared me. Especially flipping a dripping wet 3 phase switch.
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Feb 2, 2016 15:08
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Sounds like I'm safe, I don't think my disposal could break a fork. Thank you.
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Feb 2, 2016 19:16
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I wanna run a 220V line to my attached garage for my welder and other possible future big tools. If I'm taking the trouble to snake stuff through the walls already, is it worth just putting a whole subpanel out there?
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Feb 3, 2016 19:46
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I wanna run a 220V line to my attached garage for my welder and other possible future big tools. If I'm taking the trouble to snake stuff through the walls already, is it worth just putting a whole subpanel out there? Yes. Subpanel it, there's no reason not to.
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Feb 3, 2016 20:23
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sharkytm posted:Yes. Subpanel it, there's no reason not to. Yep. Now that electric cars are a thing, I'm a big fan of garage subpanels.
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Feb 3, 2016 21:49
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I wanna run a 220V line to my attached garage for my welder and other possible future big tools. If I'm taking the trouble to snake stuff through the walls already, is it worth just putting a whole subpanel out there? Yes, and put the biggest one in you can. I'd recommend a 60A minimum. Even if you're not going to use that capacity, someone else probably will in the future, and it's not that much more expensive. While you've got the trench open, put another 1.5" or 2" pipe in there for a spare or for comms or something. Leave a pull string in it.
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Feb 3, 2016 22:56
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So I wanted to share my knowledge on setting up a home network by running low voltage cables whether it be cat5 or coax. Mainly how to wall fish, and other cool tricks I know for getting a line anywhere you want it to go. Would it be worth setting up a new thread or should I share it here? Also the importance of using good quality coaxial cable if you intend to run coax.
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Feb 4, 2016 05:25
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gently caress My rear end posted:So I wanted to share my knowledge on setting up a home network by running low voltage cables whether it be cat5 or coax. Mainly how to wall fish, and other cool tricks I know for getting a line anywhere you want it to go. Would it be worth setting up a new thread or should I share it here? Also the importance of using good quality coaxial cable if you intend to run coax. There is the Home Networking Megathread over in SH/SC. Have you checked there? Also, I thought coax hasn't been used internally for networking past the gateway modem in over 20 years? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Feb 4, 2016 |
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Feb 4, 2016 07:21
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kid sinister posted:Also, I thought coax hasn't been used internally for networking past the gateway modem in over 20 years? It's still uncommon for new homes to be built with wired Ethernet and wiresless only does so much. But many homes built over the past 20-25 years have decent coax networks, even if they're not usually considered as such.
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Feb 4, 2016 17:54
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I also know alot about wall fishing, and setting up dmarcs, and generally running low voltage 
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Feb 5, 2016 02:26
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gently caress My rear end posted:I also know alot about wall fishing, and setting up dmarcs, and generally running low voltage These are my life.
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Feb 5, 2016 03:13
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How against code would it be to install a timer switch that turns off current for the period rather than turning it on? What if I then interrupt the circuit of a smoke detector with that? I want to kitchen-proof a smoke detector by putting it on this timered circuit (would have to remove battery backup too I suppose). I figure it's better than it sitting disconnected on a shelf because every model I've tried has nuisance alarms multiple times a day (every single time I cook).
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Feb 7, 2016 21:31
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Uh, extremely. Totally against code and also reason and maybe sanity. Fix the ventilation and air flow, or get better hood and filter it or something but please don't turn off the smoke detectors while you use a stove.
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Feb 7, 2016 21:41
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baquerd posted:How against code would it be to install a timer switch that turns off current for the period rather than turning it on? What if I then interrupt the circuit of a smoke detector with that? I want to kitchen-proof a smoke detector by putting it on this timered circuit (would have to remove battery backup too I suppose). This is very against code, disabling a smoke detector is not a good idea. Change out your detector or move it.
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Feb 7, 2016 21:42
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Modern smoke detectors have hush features that mute the alarm for 10 minutes, buy one of those.
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Feb 7, 2016 22:46
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minivanmegafun posted:Modern smoke detectors have hush features that mute the alarm for 10 minutes, buy one of those. Yeah, then I may only have to turn it off twice... I know the real solution is probably to move the ceiling mount to the other side of the kitchen or do a full and proper vent hood (I have an exterior venting microwave fan but yeah it sucks). I have tried multiple alarm models, but every one kicks off doing relatively low-temp sautees, never mind real smoking hot sears.
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Feb 7, 2016 23:10
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baquerd posted:Yeah, then I may only have to turn it off twice... Are heat detectors code where you are? Obviously don't replace your only smoke detector with one...
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Feb 7, 2016 23:24
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As minivanmegafun wrote, smoke detectors already have a feature built in that silences nuisance alarms. Is the existing smoke detector wired? If it's battery powered only just take it down, unscrew the mount, and reinstall it farther from the stove. Make sure it's a few feet from any corners on your walls.
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Feb 8, 2016 00:21
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baquerd posted:I know the real solution is probably to move the ceiling mount to the other side of the kitchen or do a full and proper vent hood (I have an exterior venting microwave fan but yeah it sucks). I have tried multiple alarm models, but every one kicks off doing relatively low-temp sautees, never mind real smoking hot sears.
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Feb 8, 2016 05:08
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I changed out my poo poo $7 ones with $20 dual sensor models and went from an alarm every time something dripped into the bottom of the oven, to no alarms even when things are visibly smoky from searing.
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Feb 8, 2016 05:12
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H110Hawk posted:
I have a Blendtec. It was the smaller $400 model. It's got some crazy 20k RPM brushless motor in it, and can reduce six cups of straight ice cubes to slush in about 5 seconds with no clogs. I grind up ice just to avenge my old lovely blender, which died making a smoothie.
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Feb 8, 2016 14:52
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insta posted:I have a Blendtec. Did you buy it because of the Youtube videos?
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Feb 9, 2016 05:56
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Yes. I am a DINKY consumer whore.
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Feb 9, 2016 06:22
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insta posted:Yes. I am a DINKY consumer whore. In that case, if you ever do have kids, you might want to get rid of that blender...
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Feb 9, 2016 07:33
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kid sinister posted:In that case, if you ever do have kids, you might want to get rid of that blender... Kids - will they blend?
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Feb 9, 2016 15:01
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I'm gonna go out on a limb and suggest that yes, yes they will.
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Feb 9, 2016 15:13
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I found a hole in the wall under my bathroom sink. The opposite wall is in my living room, which has a vaulted ceiling, so this would be on the wall about 10' off the ground. The wire doesn't have any labeling on it. There are two wires inside, a gray and a blue, and it appears to be shielded. My first assumption is speaker wire, but why would there be two in the same spot?  Any ideas at all? 
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Feb 9, 2016 23:01
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Maybe that's the amplifier side of a stereo system?
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Feb 10, 2016 00:16
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My garbage disposal plugs in under the sink with a switch on the wall next to the sink. Should this have GFCI? It's on its own circuit from the rest of the kitchen outlets.
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Feb 12, 2016 20:33
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FogHelmut posted:My garbage disposal plugs in under the sink with a switch on the wall next to the sink. Should this have GFCI? It's on its own circuit from the rest of the kitchen outlets. It's not required, and could possibly trip the GFCI with false positives if it's an older disposal. Only outlets serving the countertops need to be GFCI protected. Plus, GFCI outlets can't be split like a regular receptacle can, where one could be always on and the other one being switched. That sometimes happens with outlets under the kitchen sink, where one is switched for the disposal and the other is always on for the dishwasher next to that cabinet. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Feb 12, 2016 |
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Feb 12, 2016 20:44
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Okay, great. Next question - GFCI doesn't protect anything upstream, right? How do I find what is upstream?
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Feb 12, 2016 21:00
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Use the test button to trip the GFCI and see what still has power.
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Feb 12, 2016 21:21
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Yeah, figured it out. Pain in the rear end. There's 2 breakers for my kitchen plugs. One goes along one wall, the other goes along the other wall. Both terminate in the dining room. The disposal and dishwasher each have their own breaker which go to a single outlet, the disposal being switched. The lights are on their own circuit with other lights family room and dining room. edit- Now I have no idea. I don't know why so many of these are showing hot with my Fluke voltage tester. I don't know where this red wire goes. I took off every outlet and switch cover. Nothing. Went up in the attic. It appears to come up one wall and go down the other wall, and there's nothing on that wall. Must be for an old switch that isn't there anymore? I don't know. Not sure how to wire this to the GFCI. 
FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Feb 12, 2016 |
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Feb 12, 2016 21:34
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Forget that non contact stuff. Use an old fashioned 2 probe circuit tester. As for that black joined to red, is that the first box on that circuit? You may have 2 circuits sharing the neutral, one over the red, the other over its bundled black. If that's the case, then be careful. It's possible that the red wire is still energized since it's on a different breaker. My most likely guess would be that the other circuit would be to countertop outlets on the other side of the kitchen. Did you have to flip a tandem breaker to turn off your countertop outlets? Edit: You didn't specify which breakers were on or off during your test. Still, you might be able to do this with your noncontact tester. Try these tests and tell us the results: 1. Turn off the breaker for this side, leave the other on. What's still hot? 2. Turn off the breaker for the other side, leave this side on. What's still hot? 3. Turn off the breakers for both sides. Is anything still hot? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Feb 12, 2016 |
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Feb 12, 2016 23:19
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It is a tandem breaker. I took the metal clip off to try this. Bottom Breaker On That Black/Red wire in the octopus is hot, as well as the white wire on the left. Top Breaker On Just the black wire on the right is hot. Both OFF Nothing is hot. Edit - Okay, so you're saying the Red is coming from the Bottom Breaker and the Black is coming from the Top Breaker. Why is the white on the left getting hot? edit edit- Ohhhhhhhhhhh. Straight lines are walls, X's are outlets  So I don't think I should run a single GFCI to rule them all with two breakers running through it. Should I pigtail the neutrals?  Also found some baller pliers in the attic  edit3 - did that, it all looks like its working. Thanks. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Feb 13, 2016 |
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Feb 13, 2016 00:05
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That breaker takes up two slots in your breaker panel, right?
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Feb 13, 2016 01:00
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FogHelmut posted:It is a tandem breaker. I took the metal clip off to try this. Yep, those 2 circuits run from the panel into this box and share a neutral from there to here. That is why the white wire on the left was picking up voltage. Electricity was coming up the red wire, down the black twisted to it, then there must be something plugged into that circuit still for power to come back via the white bundled with that black, where your detector detected it. Still, shared neutrals make wiring up a GFCI a bit more confusing. GFCIs monitor both the hot and neutrals of their protected devices. If the power outgoing doesn't match power returning within a very tight threshold, then it assumes a ground fault has occurred and the breaker trips. Guess what would happen if you add extra returning power down the neutral from the other circuit? So let's separate the neutrals from the circuits on either side of the counters, while leaving the shared neutral going back to the breaker box intact. First, turn off both breakers. Second, twist together the white wires on the left and right, along with a 12 gauge white pigtail and put on a wire nut. Third, attach the black wire on the right and the white pigtail wire to the corresponding line terminals on the GFCI. Finally, attach the black and white wires from the top to the corresponding load terminals on the GFCI. Don't forget to attach the ground and put that clip back on the tandem breaker. Nice pair of Klein linesman's pliers. Very useful for cutting and twisting wires. No electrician should be without a pair. Exit: never mind, you nailed it with your second diagram. Good job! Don't forget to reattach that breaker clip. Hey FogHelmut, how old is your place? I'm asking because the requirement for tandem breakers on shared neutrals was much more recent than when plaster walls were in. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Feb 13, 2016 |
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Feb 13, 2016 01:52
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