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builds character posted:How old were the glove liners? I have a pair of warm n safe gloves that are great but I know a while ago they switched the way they made the heating wires and the new ones are better. quote:I wonder what's different about your gear or position that the cyclone buff doesn't work for you as it works fine for me too. Here are my best guesses: I ride a supermoto and a bobber so either way I'm fully upright with no windscreen. I'm tall and have a proportionally long neck to match. Also not helping is that this time of year, I have a waterproof liner in my jacket, and then a heated liner inside the waterproof liner and that makes the collar thick enough that other neck warmers I've tried that were that shape really wanted to ride up and sit above the jacket collar. Finally I ride every day in Seattle and need to keep my shirt dry for work so maybe I'm just being more precious about preventing water intrusion than most people? Oh hey I see warm n safe has a waterproof heated jacket now. Two layers would be a lot easier to deal with than three. Anyone try it out?
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# ? Jan 27, 2016 19:58 |
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# ? May 7, 2024 15:54 |
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MonkeyHate posted:I'm afraid that looks like it's in the "tail too short" category that leaves a little triangle between my collarbones exposed and also funnels water down the top of my jacket. I need something that would fit over the collar of my jacket to keep the water outside my rain gear. Like a long neck gaiter or dickie except people only seem to make those in fleece. Klim does not have anything that suits you? Both the Glacier and Rogue variants are over the collar variants.
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# ? Jan 27, 2016 20:51 |
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or, go home made
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# ? Jan 27, 2016 21:33 |
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Supradog posted:Klim does not have anything that suits you? Both the Glacier and Rogue variants are over the collar variants. Sweet! The Rogue looks like it might be exactly what I'm looking for. I tried a few Klim ones at a local store (the Arctic and the Klim(?) balaclavas I think) but they weren't going to work with my earbuds. Thank you thank you! Renaissance Robot posted:I need pictures! Pictures of monkeyhate!
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# ? Jan 27, 2016 21:39 |
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MonkeyHate posted:Manufacture date is Feb 2012. When did they change over? 2010 maybe? I don't know. I also have a warm n safe jacket liner that I can't turn up all the way because it's too hot but I don't know about the jacket. MonkeyHate posted:Sweet! The Rogue looks like it might be exactly what I'm looking for. I tried a few Klim ones at a local store (the Arctic and the Klim(?) balaclavas I think) but they weren't going to work with my earbuds. Thank you thank you! Giant bowl of cereal, bike inside, tiny, toy firetruck under the table? Solid work.
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# ? Jan 27, 2016 21:44 |
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Razzled posted:or, go home made Those aren't as comfy as they look
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# ? Jan 27, 2016 23:40 |
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builds character posted:2010 maybe? I don't know. I also have a warm n safe jacket liner that I can't turn up all the way because it's too hot but I don't know about the jacket. Next time my wife leaves I'm putting my bike inside by the couch.
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# ? Jan 28, 2016 07:00 |
Chichevache posted:Those aren't as comfy as they look And the eyeholes are always in the wrong place because steve's wife made them out of pillow cases.
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# ? Jan 28, 2016 07:02 |
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MonkeyHate posted:For winter riding, I've been relying on a pair of warm-n-safe glove liners under some insulated waterproof gauntlets. They were ok, but really never felt warm enough. Finally, one of them died and I decided pick up a Gerbing T5 hybrid gloves. I don't know why, but I'd always figured the glove liners would be the warmest option, as they're held tighter against the skin so the T5s were a bit of a gamble for me. Save yourself the hassle and just get a pair of real heated gloves. Yes, you'll give up some protection, but if you get a pair that has dual closure (i.e. wrist + gauntlet strap) the gloves won't come off in a crash and you'll be much more focused on your riding (I believe there's a Keith Code rule about this).
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# ? Jan 28, 2016 09:27 |
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Gonna throw in that this is also true of waterproof overgloves. I only just got back in the black after Christmas, but I really ought to splash out on some proper (probably heated) winter gloves, because daaaaamn
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# ? Jan 28, 2016 09:34 |
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If you want true waterproof gloves, I'd suggest something like the Dai Jericos. They have a waterproof gater that goes under your jacket, so no matter what, no water is going to get into the glove itself. I hope to see other awesome WP gloves such as the Held Twin incorporate a similar system in the future.
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# ? Jan 28, 2016 09:50 |
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An alternative to both waterproof and heated gloves is to just wear surgical gloves under your riding ones. Hands stay dry, and the wind is completely cut out as a chill factor. Obviously not as good as either, but very cheap, easy, and you can't even feel them on under your proper gloves. I've used them to great effect in down to 3 degree C.
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# ? Jan 28, 2016 11:00 |
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Shimrod posted:An alternative to both waterproof and heated gloves is to just wear surgical gloves under your riding ones. Hands stay dry, and the wind is completely cut out as a chill factor. Obviously not as good as either, but very cheap, easy, and you can't even feel them on under your proper gloves. I've used them to great effect in down to 3 degree C. Yeah, tried that for a couple of weeks and it does help a bit. However if you're commuting for upwards of 20 minutes the chill eventually gets you.
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# ? Jan 28, 2016 12:49 |
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Shimrod posted:An alternative to both waterproof and heated gloves is to just wear surgical gloves under your riding ones. Hands stay dry, and the wind is completely cut out as a chill factor. Obviously not as good as either, but very cheap, easy, and you can't even feel them on under your proper gloves. I've used them to great effect in down to 3 degree C. I think I've mentioned before, but every winter all the delivery guys here use 10 to one million plastic bags as hippo hands. Doesn't look great, but I bet it's super warm and waterproof.
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# ? Jan 28, 2016 13:55 |
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Ya, my commute is over an hour at highway speeds and the chill will get in after 20 - 30 minutes, but it's still a massive difference to how it is without them.
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# ? Jan 28, 2016 15:04 |
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-Inu- posted:You seem to have already figured this out but I'll post for the benefit of others: heated glove liners loving suck. They seem like they would be the ideal solution, but they're a gigantic pain in the rear end. There's a 90%+ chance they won't work with your current gloves, so you'll be shopping for a linerless pair that will accommodate your liners. Chances are you'll have to go up a size and it will still be a song and dance to get everything to cooperate. Exactly this, I've never tried a liner that wasn't a half-assed solution. Save up for a proper set of heated gear from Gerbing or Tourmaster. Some of them have considerable protection, and as far as I'm concerned, having warm hands is a more serious protective issue than having fully armored hands. Working the bike with cold hands is frustrating and sometimes painful, and in my book, that's far more likely to contribute to a crash. FWIW, I run a combo jacket liner and gloves in cold temperatures. The jacket liner helps a lot since you can run the gear in series (the power leads for the gloves are build into the jacket liners). Gerbing is more of a euro cut (I wear their size XS with long sleeves since I am a tiny buff man). Tourmaster is more of a Homer Simpson cut, but I wear their gloves.
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# ? Jan 28, 2016 20:49 |
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-Inu- posted:If you want true waterproof gloves, I'd suggest something like the Dai Jericos. They have a waterproof gater that goes under your jacket, so no matter what, no water is going to get into the glove itself. I hope to see other awesome WP gloves such as the Held Twin incorporate a similar system in the future. I've owned the jerichos for a few years now and done some reasonable long distance K's in them (3000-5000). I wear a klim badlands jacket and theres no good way to put the gloves and jacket on together, either the jacket funnels water into the glove or the glove funnels water into the jacket. It's a complete hassle to get them on too, if your hands are even slightly damp the interior lining just binds up completely around your hands and makes life very difficult. If its sodden, as it is guaranteed to be, its a serious exercise in frustration and third party help to get them on. Basically they're very dry weather gloves only as far as I've found. I've worn them down to -7c, and with storm barkbusters on my 800xc they were pretty useless for warmth after about..... mmm 2c or so at a guess. once the glove is cold they're just cold and your hand is cold and everything is cold. I've come to the conclusion after lots of wet riding that the best wet weather glove is a summer glove that dries quickly.
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# ? Jan 29, 2016 09:22 |
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There's basically four states your hands can be in, a combination of wet/dry and cold/warm. If I can only guarantee one of those it'd have to be warmth, so electric gloves are a must (especially since everything leaks sooner or later).
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# ? Jan 29, 2016 09:36 |
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I know this is pretty low-end, but I just got my HJC CL-17 helmet, and it's so much better than the even cheaper helmet it's replacing. That one was a medium and probably too big. For the HJC, I measured in between small and medium and got the small. It's still so much more comfortable than the old one, I wonder if I could fit in the extra small. Right now at least, it doesn't wiggle if I shake my head, though.
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# ? Jan 29, 2016 21:56 |
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Sometime between last night and tonight one of my winter gloves went missing for good. It's a shame because they were well broken in and gloves are really expensive. They were not warm enough under 40F anyway, and I guess this is a good excuse to get some that are. These are the only ones I found that were viable under 40 degrees, and my hands tend to get very cold anyway. I don't like their lack of armor, and bulk, but reviews show these to be far and away warmer than others, and actually waterproof. http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/tour-master-cold-tex-20-gloves I'm going to read over the last several pages, in case I missed glovechat, but do those look ok? I'm just not looking to spend 100+ on gloves, and I can get a pair of these old stock for 60 on ebay.
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# ? Jan 30, 2016 00:46 |
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I have a sena 20s that I really like. I rode with it in some pretty heavy rain and mud over Christmas and it was working fine until I plugged it in overnight to charge. In the morning my computer would recognize it and it would charge (after a factory reset) but it wouldn't actually do anything. Anyway, it was broken and I RMAed it and they're sending me a replacement. So kudos to them for not being awful even if it maybe isn't quite as waterproof as it should be. Coydog posted:Sometime between last night and tonight one of my winter gloves went missing for good. It's a shame because they were well broken in and gloves are really expensive. They were not warm enough under 40F anyway, and I guess this is a good excuse to get some that are. The real answer is hippo hands and any gloves you want.
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# ? Jan 30, 2016 01:49 |
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Seconded. Nothing else is going to work really. Even if you have hand guards, you really need hippo hands for wind protection.
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# ? Jan 30, 2016 02:39 |
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I have a pair of moose mitts from when I tried to solve this problem on the SV. They are dangerous without bark busters to go over, and no way bark busters are fitting on the EX250. Plus, I personally found them to be outright dangerous, both with my hands in place, and when I was desperately trying to get a hand back in after removing it at speed. They just aren't an option. On an adv in the arctic, I'm sure they are awesome. I just could never make them work, and don't want to risk my bike on trying them again.
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# ? Jan 30, 2016 03:19 |
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Klïm Badlands Pro pants, are they good? Looking for waterproof pants, not removable waterproof liner; waterproof shell. Might have a line on a never used pair in my size for $375, which seems alright. Sanity check?
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# ? Jan 30, 2016 08:52 |
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I got the 2015 Badlands version and I like them a lot. Done about 8000 km with them with very mixed conditions and they're been very nice. Comfortable, adjustable and waterproof. The main differences compared to the older pro version is that the pro is armacore main fabric vs 2015 is cordura main fabric with armacore and superfabric on main contact areas. It makes the pro a little bit heavier and stiffer. pro also does not have adjustment behind the knees, 2015 got 2 straps pr knee for adjustment of the pads to stay in place. The main thigh vent is also redesigned, pro had better venting when sitting down vs 2015 has insane venting when standing on the pegs. The pro pants is very good pants.
Supradog fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Jan 30, 2016 |
# ? Jan 30, 2016 11:42 |
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clutchpuck posted:Klïm Badlands Pro pants, are they good? Looking for waterproof pants, not removable waterproof liner; waterproof shell. Might have a line on a never used pair in my size for $375, which seems alright. Sanity check? I'll fully admit that I don't have a ton of experience with the Badlands Pro pants (I deal with the newer "base" models, so not the Badlands Pro, Latitude Misano/840, etc), so I can't give intimate sizing details. I've obviously seen and deconstructed them, but I'm no expert. With that said, if they fit, loving go for it. You won't regret the decision.
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# ? Jan 30, 2016 11:51 |
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Klim stuff is fantastic quality but yeah, cut for the thicker gentleman.
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# ? Jan 30, 2016 21:09 |
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That's good, I'm American built. The 36" waist will squeeze on over jeans but I bet a pair of UA cold gear will be all I need. So I got them. Probably the nicest piece of riding gear I have.
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# ? Jan 31, 2016 02:20 |
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If anybody here wears small gloves and has some that are either lightly used or too small for them (and also wants to get rid of them) hit me up. My $200+ brand new Dainese Full Metal Pro gauntlets are too long in the fingers by about 1 cm and I have just one track day with them... I'd be willing to work something out if you're interested in the Dainese pair. They're white with high vis yellow accents. Apparently, a small in those gloves isn't quite small enough.
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# ? Feb 3, 2016 20:08 |
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drat, I'd buy them if they were large. My dianese gauntlets have a hole in the finger now.
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# ? Feb 3, 2016 20:29 |
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I'm considering getting a 1 piece Aerostich R3. I would probably get the forward rotated arms and longer back. Does anyone have one of these?
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# ? Feb 7, 2016 08:27 |
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Friend of mine has one, loves it. I'm looking for a road crafter jacket myself.
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# ? Feb 7, 2016 21:42 |
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Looking for a full gauntlet (and I'm going to sell my Dainese full metals that I literally just bought because a small wasn't quite small enough). Recommendations? $300 max. These would be nearly exclusively used for track days. Edit, any reason why I shouldn't try for the Held Kashiro on closeout? XYLOPAGUS fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Feb 8, 2016 |
# ? Feb 8, 2016 22:55 |
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Looking for a full gauntlet (and I'm going to sell my Dainese full metals that I literally just bought because a small wasn't quite small enough). Recommendations? $300 max. http://www.racerglovesusa.com/high-speed-glove/
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# ? Feb 8, 2016 23:13 |
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Sadly out of my size.
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# ? Feb 9, 2016 00:45 |
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Has anyone heard or owned any Clover gloves? Online place here in Canada sells them but I haven't seen them elsewhere. Looks like the spergs on ADVrider approve of Clover gear, but I thought I'd check with you all first.
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# ? Feb 9, 2016 00:45 |
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After extensive research on glove sizing, I have come to a realization. It's not my gloves. It's my suit. Gloves fit great without the suit, but once I put the suit on, the sleeve pushes the gloves out about 1cm from where they should be sitting on my wrist...
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# ? Feb 9, 2016 01:09 |
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Looking for a full gauntlet (and I'm going to sell my Dainese full metals that I literally just bought because a small wasn't quite small enough). Recommendations? $300 max. On a side note, the GP Techs are much less common than the Pros. They're $60 more and all you're really getting is a second palm slider on the inner hand, and the whole glove comes at a cost of additional bulk and clunkiness. Certainly not a bad glove by any stretch of the imagination and I would wear them in a heartbeat, but they're not my cup of tea. You don't start getting GP Pro-comparable gloves until you're in the >>$300 range with things like Jerez Pros and Held Phantoms/Titans. The Full Metals are a neat glove and all, but there is no world in which I would ever pay remotely close to $400 for them. (Not making GBS threads on your purchase, just have to throw it in when talking about race gloves). I think my second favorite glove would be the Handroids. They more-or-less have the most external slide protection of any glove, are super comfortable, and the lacing system is great. The exoskeleton movement is completely fluid and you'd never even know there was poo poo on the outside of the glove. The only reason I wouldn't use them as a main glove personally is because I value longevity in my gear, which plays two factors: 1) Adding so many moving parts and joints inherently decreases that. I could see 'em getting nuked in a gear bag if they get slammed around under something at the airport, or if I put a ton of miles on them and they inevitably get dropped, stepped on, and just general wear and tear (again, I use 1 pair of gloves for both street and track). 2) If you crash in them, the exoskeleton has a decent change of being compromised. You're less likely to be able to reuse them compared to a "traditional" glove. This Handroid part is 100% a personal opinion based on how I ride, where I ride, and what I expect out of motorcycle gear, which is NOT the same for everyone. Again, what I just said about why I don't own Handroids is complete personal opinion and I in no way use that as something intended to sway anyone's opinion. Handroids may be perfect as an only glove for many people. Here are my GP Pros after 6 years. They've been my exclusive gloves for that time (random glove borrowing or testing aside). They have about 40k street miles on them and a few track seasons. I even lent them out to a friend to use for a season of endurance racing. 20k miles occurred after a lowside "ripped" the outer leather of the right palm where it says "GP" (it's a leather->kevlar/padding->leather layer). The palm was never taped or anything and I use Renthal grips (aka abrasive), and despite that, the palm never worsened. One ~80mph track lowside, one ~50mph street lowside, and my recent lovely 120mph somethingside all unsuccessfully tried to kill the things. I'm certainly a bit biased (everyone is; you have to be - personal experiences and preferences play a huge role in the gear world), but these have always been my #1 glove recommendation. Durable enough for street mileage, protective enough for track riding. Obviously YMMV and it's possible to shred anything at any speed if physics decides to say "gently caress you", but, I've got nothing bad to say. edit: Bunch of other posts came in after I first opened the reply box. What specifically are you running into regards to glove sizing (being too small or too big?). Are you interfacing the gloves/suit while standing up? When you're in riding position, the arms of your suit are going to ride up which will give your gloves more room (if I understand your problem correctly). -Inu- fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Feb 9, 2016 |
# ? Feb 9, 2016 01:22 |
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Helimot, IMO. I burned through a number of sets of A* gloves over the years, thanks to my fingers being a funny size and wearing out the fingertips. B11s for track use: http://www.helimot.com/products/helimot-b11-sport-race-glove Hi-5s for street/warm weather use: http://www.helimot.com/products/helimot-hi-5-motorcycle-glove Buffalo-365 for all around use: http://www.helimot.com/products/helimot-buffalo-pro-motorcycle-glove Cowabunga for hot weather use: http://www.helimot.com/products/cowabunga My daily set is an older all leather B11, I've got a set of Hi-5s on loan while mine are getting crash repaired. I'll get another set of B11s made with my new (last ) custom suit from them. The best part is in person sizing, but that only really works if you're a local. I dunno if they can take traces from the internets for sizing yet. Z3n fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Feb 9, 2016 |
# ? Feb 9, 2016 06:26 |
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# ? May 7, 2024 15:54 |
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Dammit, I could have sworn I had a Helimot caveat in there but it must have gotten nuked during formatting. I blame my brain. Anyway, yeah, I've heard nothing but good things about Helimot. All else being equal, I'd say part of it depends on your stance on hard sliders vs padding. Similar to the A/S finger bridge (which is always a fun discussion). Sadly I've never had a chance to wear them, but I'd really like to give them a shot at some point.
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# ? Feb 9, 2016 07:08 |