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FreudianSlippers posted:This trick worked in that it got the car to unlock itself but the battery was still totally empty so it couldn't actually run. So we pulled it out and plugged it to a charger overnight then tried again today. The car started in the first go without any trouble but there is still a really loud fan noise coming from the front of the car which I suspect is what drained the battery. I'm probably being paranoid but I unplugged the negative port to avoid emptying the battery again, I'll just scew it back on when I go to work tomorrow and then try to find a mechanic that can look into the fan problem if it's anything I actually need to worry about. Change your fan relays. Is it radiator fan? May be stuck on
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Feb 8, 2016 21:43
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Alright so I have a Ford Fusion (2008 SE 2.3L Auto 5-speed @ 125,000 miles). The trans was acting up. Took it to a good shop in town. They couldn't give me a cause. They flushed and replaced the fluid. No improvement. Computer gives codes: code:code:Could I replace those solenoids? I feel completely clueless on what to do here.
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Feb 8, 2016 23:28
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Was it a general shop or a transmission specialist that you took it to?
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Feb 8, 2016 23:36
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Fusion automatic transmission problem? Leave it in bad part of town and hope someone burns it.... Rebuild kit is $400 plus your labor cost. If you pull it yourself someone might be able to rebuild around $1k.
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Feb 8, 2016 23:36
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Uthor posted:Was it a general shop or a transmission specialist that you took it to? General shop. Christobevii3 posted:Fusion automatic transmission problem? Leave it in bad part of town and hope someone burns it.... 
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Feb 8, 2016 23:38
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Slavvy posted:Q: what happens if you put a spinning magnet inside another magnet?? ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Electricity comes out when you spin the spinny bit. tactlessbastard posted:They just do. Until they don't. Then you replace them. What? I was responding to the troll because of his name.  languagehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvmvxAcT_Yc
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Feb 9, 2016 00:45
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Christobevii3 posted:Fusion automatic transmission problem? Leave it in bad part of town and hope someone burns it.... You're probably thinking of the 6 speed auto that was a joint venture between Ford and GM, which didn't get used until the second generation Fusion starting in 2010, and they were complete train wrecks for the first year or two. I had a 2010 Fusion as a company car and it was continuously in and out of the dealer for the first year I had it, finally ending with the transmission having to be completely rebuilt under warranty when it was no longer able to shift into 3, 4 or 5th gears. The first gen 2.3 Fusions used the same five speed auto out of the 06-09 Mazda 6, which AFAIK wasn't any more or less reliable than any other slushbox autos from that era.
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Feb 9, 2016 01:45
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PaintVagrant posted:1 - yes Thanks for this and for all of the following responses, I appreciate it. The $400 was indeed for a new wheel, but that's bonkers so we're taking it to a repair shop tomorrow evening to get a quote and I'll ask them how much just for labor if I can find the wheel. Much obliged to all of you.
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Feb 9, 2016 04:29
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Uthor posted:Would a bent rim cause "clicking"? And it would quiet down at speed? One thing that I can confirm causes clicking is loose lug nuts.
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Feb 9, 2016 06:46
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1.) Is there any way to determine whether a thermostat is bad aside from the car throwing a code? I have two of these things and the car computer says that both of their heating elements are bad. They both could be, but I'm hoping they aren't because they're $300 each. 2.) What is the prevailing sentiment on split CV boots? I don't have the tool to get the CV joint out of the steering knuckle and am hoping that this will do the trick.
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Feb 9, 2016 16:33
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If you can accurately take the temperature of a pot of water, you can determine if/when the thermostat opens. That's the only way I know.
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Feb 9, 2016 16:37
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I have a 2008 impreza MT with 97k miles on the clock. Yesterday it was lurching/bucking like it had an automatic that was making GBS threads the bed. It was not consistent, but was very noticeable when it happened. I want to say it usually happened when i came off the throttle, but i'm pretty sure it happened under acceleration too. It was snowing like hell when i started driving, i was a long way from home, and the car didn't throw a cel, so i just kept driving. I had about 30 miles of in town driving, 150 miles of highway, and another 15 of town before i got home. The bucking stopped maybe half way up the highway, maybe a little less. I was thinking of changing the fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, and pcv valve as i know they are all overdue and some quick googling indicated it could be worth trying. Is there anything else I should try?
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Feb 9, 2016 17:33
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scuz posted:Is there any way to determine whether a thermostat is bad aside from the car throwing a code? As mentioned, a pot of water on the stove with a thermometer is the generally accepted method.
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Feb 9, 2016 20:00
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scuz posted:1.). They both could be, but I'm hoping they aren't because they're $300 each. How do you even, just how is a thermostat $300? God drat Germans. I can't even think of any semi-exotic material you could possibly use, or how you could complicate a thermostat, or is this 15¢ of material for $300 case? nth-ing the pot of hot water on the stove test method.
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Feb 9, 2016 20:29
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Maybe the entire thing is a giant R-type thermocouple.
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Feb 9, 2016 20:43
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Jeff Gerber posted:I have a 2008 impreza MT with 97k miles on the clock. Was it bucking and having issues with rpms jumping around when out of gear?
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Feb 9, 2016 21:25
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More specifically, it's the thermostat's heating element that sort of pre-heats the thermostat before the engine gets up to running temp. I'll try the hot water method on both of them, though.
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Feb 9, 2016 22:55
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scuz posted:it's the thermostat's heating element that sort of pre-heats the thermostat Doesn't this eliminate the point of a thermostat 
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Feb 9, 2016 23:17
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Doesn't this eliminate the point of a thermostat
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Feb 9, 2016 23:29
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Can I get some advice on whether transmission fluid looks okay? I am trying to buy a mid 2000s Camry or Corolla. I found a 2006 Camry from a dealer today (4 cylinder, automatic, 128,000 mi, Darcars Baltimore, "certified Toyota") and these are pictures I snapped of the transmission fluid rubbed on my finger and a white sticker under the hood.   My mechanic told me to walk if I ever see brown or black transmission fluid, even if the seller claims it virtually never needs to be changed. There are zero service records for the transmission with the dealers paperwork and Carmax. How's the stuff look to anyone? uncloudy day fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Feb 9, 2016 |
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Feb 9, 2016 23:37
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Looks dirty, does it smell clean or dirty?
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Feb 10, 2016 00:44
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Looks like Toyota ATF with 128k on it. It's never been changed. I would pass on the car unless the price is low. The transmission is probably fine, but who knows what else has been neglected.
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Feb 10, 2016 00:48
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Christobevii3 posted:Looks dirty, does it smell clean or dirty? Didn't have a chance. As soon as I said the fluid looked dirty they rolled it into the shop to change the fluid and destroy the evidence. I think I might have sensed a little hesitation in the transmission when i was test driving, but it was hard to tell because it shifts worlds better than my old ride.
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Feb 10, 2016 00:56
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scuz posted:More specifically, it's the thermostat's heating element that sort of pre-heats the thermostat before the engine gets up to running temp. I'll try the hot water method on both of them, though. I'm not sure if they have anything in there besides the actual heating coil (H-bridge? Protective diodes?) but if it's just a coil, check its resistance? Or, if you know that the coil is supposed to heat up when the car is cold, can you unplug the pigtail from it, start the car cold, and see if there is voltage to the connector that plugs into it? Considering my ignorance of the rest of the circuit, that seems like it would be one way to see if it's the heater that's bad, or the wiring going to the heater.
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Feb 10, 2016 02:24
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Raluek posted:I'm not sure if they have anything in there besides the actual heating coil (H-bridge? Protective diodes?) but if it's just a coil, check its resistance? Or, if you know that the coil is supposed to heat up when the car is cold, can you unplug the pigtail from it, start the car cold, and see if there is voltage to the connector that plugs into it? Considering my ignorance of the rest of the circuit, that seems like it would be one way to see if it's the heater that's bad, or the wiring going to the heater. ~me irl I will try that, that's a good idea. Bummer that the thermostat is in the loving BLOCK but life uh... finds a way.
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Feb 10, 2016 05:02
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Christobevii3 posted:Looks dirty, does it smell clean or dirty? This is important. Dirty ATF usually means a bit of neglect but burnt or funky smelling ATF means there is an active problem with the transmission. Normal used ATF smells slightly plasticky but otherwise fairly neutral. ATF full of wrecked clutch bands smells like burning plastic bags.
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Feb 10, 2016 06:38
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8ender posted:This is important. Dirty ATF usually means a bit of neglect but burnt or funky smelling ATF means there is an active problem with the transmission. Normal used ATF smells slightly plasticky but otherwise fairly neutral. ATF full of wrecked clutch bands smells like burning plastic bags. I smelled burning plastic inside and outside of the car during and after the test drive.  When I mentioned that they said it was tape accidentally left on a new exhaust. I think I'll stay away from this car though. Thank you.
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Feb 10, 2016 07:39
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That's actually a reasonable explanation, though I'd look for oil leaks that may be dripping on the exhaust. Why would a 2006 need a new exhaust though? Unless you're in a state that uses salt anyway..
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Feb 10, 2016 08:28
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tater_salad posted:Was it bucking and having issues with rpms jumping around when out of gear? Nope, just bucking while in gear. Although i'm pretty sure it was happening both on and off the throttle.
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Feb 10, 2016 17:29
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I'm about to replace the tires on my 2011 Prius that has ~75k miles on it. I live in Portland, where it rains and sometimes snows. I don't know poo poo about tires. How do I decide which tires to buy? Googling turns up a bunch of links to brands suggesting you use their tires, but I can't seem to find an easy way to wade through the junk and just figure out what the 1-2 best brands/models are for me. I just want something that will be safe, good with fuel economy, and last a while. Nothing fancy, but I don't mind paying a little bit more if there's a good reason to. Help?
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Feb 10, 2016 19:05
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Just go read reviews on tirerack listed for your car. UTG is relative but higher numbers are harder, last longer, but less grip. I'd look at 400 - 600 utg for what you want. Then in tirerack reviews they have comparison of wet traction
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Feb 10, 2016 19:11
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Christobevii3 posted:Just go read reviews on tirerack listed for your car. UTG is relative but higher numbers are harder, last longer, but less grip. I'd look at 400 - 600 utg for what you want. Then in tirerack reviews they have comparison of wet traction Thank you, this is exactly what I was looking for.
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Feb 10, 2016 19:19
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So I'm selling a car on Craigslist and I keep having the same conversation with people over and over again. It starts with them asking if I'd take a considerably lower offer if they can pay in cash  What loving difference does this make to me? A 20k bank note or cashiers check is worth exactly 20k in cash retards, I'm not trying to hide this money from the government since I don't have to claim a vehicle sale as income, I just don't understand why they think this makes any difference at all 
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Feb 11, 2016 02:49
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I live in New York (not the city, but the state). Do I need to have a rear view mirror? The law, as I read it on Wikipedia, says my car needed to be built with one, but I can't see any mention of it being required to stay there. The issue is that I have a small car, and I'm tall, so the mirror blocks a great deal of my view. I have to lower my head when switching lanes just to ensure it's not hiding a vehicle. At the very least if it is required that I have a rear view mirror, then does it need to be in the center of my windshield? Could I like glue it to the dash or something, where it'd be out of the way?
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Feb 11, 2016 03:07
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This seems to suggest you're ok without it.
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Feb 11, 2016 05:41
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1991 Nissan Vanette with 320k kms (it was cheap!) Main issues: -Most annoying is that it really hates starting from cold. Takes a number of times cranking it to no result, then it will run for a second then die a few times, then it's fine (idle could be smoother but not terrible, but otherwise no issues with it stalling, surging/hesitating, etc). Takes a minute or two all told. I was doing some searching and guessing this might be either a vacuum leak or automatic choke problem? That's what I'm hoping anyways, seem like the easiest possible fixes. -Bit of a dead spot in the middle of the steering. I thought it might just be me not used to lacking PS, but I took a look underneath and the manual steering gear box is liberally breaded in oil-flavoured road cheese, so it doubtless needs refilling and probably a gasket replaced at the very least. Would this possibly fix the dead spot, or could have enough damage been done to the gears while it was dry to merit replacement? I don't plan on keeping this thing longer than the rego lasts, so if it doesn't pose a safety hazard I will probably leave it as is. No weird noises or sensations when making turns aside from that dead spot. -Suspension is generally pretty tired all around (see above as far as replacing it), but most noticeably the body sits a bit higher over one wheel than the others, and tread on that tyre is worn way more on the inside than the outside/middle. What could I look at underneath to help figure out exactly what the deal is? I wanted to jack it up to check the wheel bearings out (no noise or anything that I can tell, just to check) but the ancient hydraulic jack the PO threw in doesn't seem tall enough to reach the frame rails from the ground  , and I don't have jack stands anyways. -Thermostat only goes about 1/4 of the way up when driving. Can pull that and try the boiled water trick mentioned on this page. My mechanical knowledge/ability is slightly better than total beginner (have done some basic work on my postie, changing tyres/sprockets, some basic electrical and carbie work), I don't have many tools due to moving here a year ago and only buying a vehicle recently, and I can't find much info about the Vanette online. On the plus side, I have access to the shop manuals at the local library (can't check them out, but can make photocopies), and work at a vocational school that has an automotive program, so I can get work done there cheaper than a regular mechanic. Since I have the postie (and in a pinch, could bicycle to work/for errands) it's fine to be without the van for a while whilst the school works on it. OTOH, there's an event ~2 hours away I'd really like to take the van to next weekend. I made sure to get RACT's premium roadside package so I'm not particularly fussed if it leaves me on the side of the highway, but as far as potential catastrophic failures that could be dangerous, is there anything I could be checking for in the meantime? Brakes are fine and while old and due for replacing soon, tyres aren't that bad. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 09:45 on Feb 4, 2019 |
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Feb 11, 2016 07:58
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Since you mention choke, I assume it's carbureted? Before you start it with a cold engine, if it has an automatic choke, you should be pressing the throttle all the way to the floor, then letting go before you try to crank it - that sets the choke. Are you doing that now? If not, that may be part of your problem. I'll leave everything else for someone else to comment on, I'm not very familiar with them (Nissan crushed pretty much all of the ones in the US a long time ago)
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Feb 11, 2016 08:12
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With regards to the electronic choke: If doing as STR suggests isn't helpful, try turning on the ignition for a few minutes before you try to crank it. Some electric chokes operate only based on time, rather than anything you do with the throttle or what the actual air temperature or engine temperature is. As to the thermostat: I'd like to point out (since you weren't clear about this) that the temperature gauge is not the same thing as the thermostat. The thermostat is a mechanical device that opens when the engine gets hot and lets the coolant circulate through the radiator; before it gets up to temp it stays closed and keeps the coolant recirculating in the engine to help it warm up faster. If your temperature gauge never gets to a reasonable value, it could well be due to a missing or stuck open thermostat, and you'd check it as you mentioned.
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Feb 11, 2016 08:35
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Yeah, if it's a basic carb, the choke will be a temperature sensitive spring with a heater on it - that style is sort of sensitive to ambient temp, in that it'll take longer for the heater to warm up the spring (and thus, open the choke) when it's really cold out. Turning on the key and letting it sit for a minute will energize the heater, and force the choke to open. Leaving the key on with the engine off may or may not cause damage to the ignition system though - usually the coil and/or ignition module. Every carb I've had has had that style setup, though my experience is limited to (US) 80s Hondas and late 70s Fords. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:47 on Feb 11, 2016 |
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Feb 11, 2016 08:44
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Having a similar problem with my Pajero (cold starts), I know it's only going to get worse as fall/winter comes.
Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 12:07 on Feb 11, 2016 |
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Feb 11, 2016 08:45
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