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nwin posted:Speaking of water heaters, No. You rent. If it's not fixed in a reasonable time this is contract law, not DIY.
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Feb 9, 2016 04:30
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kid sinister posted:That is definitely proprietary. Your best bet would be to buy the hangers and corner braces as 2 separate items. Even the triangle shape isn't common. You may have to settle for flat L brackets. You mean the pressure relief valve right? Where you can pull up on it to release pressure and it also should do it automatically if a certain pressure is reached? It's not leaking out of that. They put a 5 gallon bucket underneath that pipe which has been bone dry. As far as I can tell-this is coming from the bottom of the tank somewhere. Hard to tell exactly since I can't get under it.
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Feb 9, 2016 04:33
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Motronic posted:No. You rent. If it's not fixed in a reasonable time this is contract law, not DIY. No I know that-just trying to make sure I don't wake up to a worse problem or that there isn't something I can do to help in the meantime. The landlord called a few guys and left messages, but we just had a bad snowstorm today and no one called back (I called him around 6 pm and he started calling right away).
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Feb 9, 2016 04:35
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I had that happen at the last place I rented. It was leaking out of the bottom because the weld on the seal of the bottom ring just rusted through. See if it's leaking from the seal at the bottom?
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Feb 9, 2016 04:35
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nwin posted:You mean the pressure relief valve right? Where you can pull up on it to release pressure and it also should do it automatically if a certain pressure is reached? It's not leaking out of that. They put a 5 gallon bucket underneath that pipe which has been bone dry. As far as I can tell-this is coming from the bottom of the tank somewhere. Hard to tell exactly since I can't get under it. Yep, that's what I meant. Is this an electric or gas hot water heater? If it's electric, then there is a very remote possibility that it's leaking out one of the heating element holes, in which case, tightening or replacing the heating element in that hole should fix it. For the record, I have never, ever seen that happen and it's usually the tank itself that is leaking. My money is on your tank leaking. Sorry  Regardless, keep up with the towels if you don't have a floor drain nearby or if the floor isn't sloped towards the drain.Motronic posted:No. You rent. If it's not fixed in a reasonable time this is contract law, not DIY. Ehhhhhhhh, keeping that location dry would be the most DIY thing he could do, and would only help his case in the event that if it ever did become a law matter. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Feb 9, 2016 |
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Feb 9, 2016 05:38
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It's a gas water heater, so I'm guessing the tank itself is shot. Thanks for all the tips though!
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Feb 9, 2016 11:08
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Why is finding regular rear end, clear glass pendant light shades so impossible? Both Home Depot and Lowes only have weird shapes or patterns, and I just want something that is super plain in a mix and match style shade because I want to show off Edison bulbs. I guess I need to find a local lighting place and cross my fingers?
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Feb 9, 2016 13:32
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The Dave posted:Why is finding regular rear end, clear glass pendant light shades so impossible? Both Home Depot and Lowes only have weird shapes or patterns, and I just want something that is super plain in a mix and match style shade because I want to show off Edison bulbs. I guess I need to find a local lighting place and cross my fingers? because you should never shop for lighting at HD/lowes unless you just want something cheap and don't care about quality or looks. is this what you want? http://www.wayfair.com/Phillips-Mini-Pendant-BL9395-BL9395.html
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Feb 9, 2016 18:19
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Is it exactly 17' of pipe? Could you do like 10' and an 8' piece with a coupling? Most black steel pipe that I've seen at the big box stores comes in 8', 10' and sometimes 12' lengths. If you can't piece it together with off the shelf lengths, some hardware stores will cut and thread steel pipe for you. Looks like it's multiples of 2' -- I just bought a couple of 4' pieces the other day for two sets of NIB Pony 52 clamps the previous owner left behind (her ex-husband bought them and never took them out of the box, I guess). I toddled on down to hometown hardware and got two pieces of 4' black pipe for :tenbux: (I wanted 6', but they were out.) But yeah, as has been said, it's thick-wall steel pipe, if it's not leaking just wire-brush off the rust and paint it.
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Feb 9, 2016 22:49
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Qwijib0 posted:because you should never shop for lighting at HD/lowes unless you just want something cheap and don't care about quality or looks. True. That's the spirit of what I want, but I don't need a fixture, just the shade. Though at this point I'm starting to warm up to just swapping the whole fixture out to get it over with.
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Feb 10, 2016 05:31
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I need to cut a sheet of drywall into smaller boards for drying pottery pieces (8x8, 6x6, 4x12, etc). What it the best tool for this job? When I have made large cuts in drywall I have used a knife and a straight edge. Because I'm making so many cuts I'm wondering if this is still the best method. I'm concerned and crumbling corners if I try to snap the smaller pieces.
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Feb 11, 2016 13:29
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I'm looking at building a workbench on a wall by getting some cabinets and putting a wooden countertop on it. This would just be for assembling and sawing etc, very basic. Is there any reason why laminate MDF cabinets (or particle board) wouldn't be able to hold up to the load?
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Feb 11, 2016 14:13
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:I need to cut a sheet of drywall into smaller boards for drying pottery pieces (8x8, 6x6, 4x12, etc). What it the best tool for this job? When I have made large cuts in drywall I have used a knife and a straight edge. Because I'm making so many cuts I'm wondering if this is still the best method. I'm concerned and crumbling corners if I try to snap the smaller pieces. I would score & snap them. For smaller ones, you can hold it against a wooden board to help snap it on the right line. You could use a dry wall saw, but that'll take you longer, be harder to get straight edges, and make a mess. But any way you do this, the corners will be very fragile, they won't last long if you're handling them.
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Feb 11, 2016 14:30
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Chin Strap posted:I'm looking at building a workbench on a wall by getting some cabinets and putting a wooden countertop on it. This would just be for assembling and sawing etc, very basic. Is there any reason why laminate MDF cabinets (or particle board) wouldn't be able to hold up to the load? I've done similar with particle board cabinets and they held my weight. I wouldn't rebuild a V12 on there or have a trampolining party but they were plenty strong enough for a workbench. Transferring the load to the floor (base cabinets rather than wall) should be stronger though.
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Feb 11, 2016 15:21
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Gounads posted:But any way you do this, the corners will be very fragile, they won't last long if you're handling them. To help prevent this could you like tape the edges after cutting with duct tape? A single length per side, centered and folded over to form a wrap on the edge? It says drying, I assume that is air drying and not kiln drying.
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Feb 11, 2016 16:01
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H110Hawk posted:To help prevent this could you like tape the edges after cutting with duct tape? A single length per side, centered and folded over to form a wrap on the edge? It says drying, I assume that is air drying and not kiln drying. You'd have better luck putting a length of outside corner trim on the corner, like is done with drywall when it's used for its actual intended purpose.
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Feb 11, 2016 16:54
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Seems like wood would make more sense. I would get like some 1/2" boards in various widths (4", 6", 8") and just cut them to length.
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Feb 11, 2016 16:58
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What on earth do you need little squares of drywall for that wouldn't be better served by some other material? E: missed that, yup, wrong material. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Feb 11, 2016 |
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Feb 11, 2016 17:16
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:drying pottery pieces Drywall isn't a good choice for wet things. May I suggest ceramic tiles?
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Feb 11, 2016 18:12
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end mill facade posted:Drywall isn't a good choice for wet things. Seconded. Wet drywall becomes moldy very quickly. Why not pick something like cooling racks for the kitchen? They won't turn moldy but they might rust after awhile, plus they should hold up well to any heat from the pots.
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Feb 11, 2016 18:25
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Drying clay isn't hot (you dry it before firing) and it's not so wet that it will mold up drywall. Drywall is a desirable material for drying flat clay slabs because it is vapor open, has decent hygric buffering capacity, and a smooth surface. IMO, untempered hardboard or MDF would be better choices; they have the same properties but higher durability (and you don't have to worry about gypsum dust contaminating your clay).
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Feb 11, 2016 20:17
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When it warms up, I'm planning on attempting to build some wood pallet planters. Probably this one http://www.upcyclethat.com/vertical-pallet-planter/ But I got to thinking how nice it would look if I could tile it or otherwise affix rocks or granite chips to it. Is that feasible with just some mud, tile and grout? Or would I need some underlay like chicken wire? or just loving glue poo poo to it? What do you think?
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Feb 11, 2016 22:01
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Zhentar posted:Drying clay isn't hot (you dry it before firing) and it's not so wet that it will mold up drywall. Drywall is a desirable material for drying flat clay slabs because it is vapor open, has decent hygric buffering capacity, and a smooth surface. IMO, untempered hardboard or MDF would be better choices; they have the same properties but higher durability (and you don't have to worry about gypsum dust contaminating your clay). Every time I've had water touch mdf it swells and warps. Is there some specific type I need? I tape the sides and corners of the drywall with duct tape and it holds everything together.
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Feb 12, 2016 01:03
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I would think that if your clay is wet enough to swell MDF, it would also be wet enough to gently caress up drywall paper. You don't want any sort of special moisture resistant MDF; the treatments that increase moisture resistance also reduce permeability so drying through it will be much slower.
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Feb 12, 2016 04:10
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Is there a video editing or video editing software thread anywhere on the forums
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Feb 12, 2016 04:33
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I'm just a dude who took a couple weeks of pottery classes but the studio used raw plywood planks to dry pieces on. We would then wrap everything in plastic to slow drying, making it gradual and more even which was desirable if a piece had a variety of thicknesses or needed a handle attached at a later date. Once they were leather hard I would flip them over to let the bottoms catch up. I wouldn't worry too much about trying to find an absorbent surface if you're doing something similar, but I'm definitely not an expert.
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Feb 12, 2016 06:42
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Rap Music and Dope posted:Is there a video editing or video editing software thread anywhere on the forums You might want to check in Inspect Your Gadgets. That's our AV subforum.
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Feb 12, 2016 07:27
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Anyone ever redo their closet by purchasing a set from SimplyNeu, ClosetMaid, etc.? Are they good quality, easy to install? Or do they fall apart after putting a single t-shirt on a shelf? I abhor wire rack closets.
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Feb 12, 2016 17:36
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Rap Music and Dope posted:Is there a video editing or video editing software thread anywhere on the forums Film & Video Editing/Post-prod Thread
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Feb 12, 2016 18:29
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Any good, cheap way, to get the heat from the ceiling circulating in a room? We don't have any ceiling fans and the ceiling is at 70-80 and the floor is at 58-60
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Feb 14, 2016 16:07
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Massasoit posted:Any good, cheap way, to get the heat from the ceiling circulating in a room? We don't have any ceiling fans and the ceiling is at 70-80 and the floor is at 58-60 Use a floor fan in a corner aimed at the ceiling.
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Feb 14, 2016 16:17
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Massasoit posted:Any good, cheap way, to get the heat from the ceiling circulating in a room? We don't have any ceiling fans and the ceiling is at 70-80 and the floor is at 58-60 Cheapest would probably be a box fan, an extension cord, some rope and some ceiling hooks. Can you install a ceiling fan?
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Feb 14, 2016 16:18
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Cheapest would probably be a box fan, an extension cord, some rope and some ceiling hooks. Nope, renting.
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Feb 14, 2016 16:20
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My toilet won't fill There's literally no water coming in at all. This is my second floor bath, so I have no access to the plumbing that leads up to it. I stripped it back to the shutoff valve, which seems to be working (it's a ball valve, and when it's open I can pass a dowel trough it without issue.). I had about 6" of dowel down there without hitting a turn or any sort of blockage. None of the other fixtures in my house are having any trouble at all, including the sink and shower in that room. I had read about use an air compressor to blow it out, should I try that? 
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Feb 14, 2016 17:13
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Dragyn posted:My toilet won't fill Is it very cold where you are? Pipe may have frozen.
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Feb 14, 2016 17:17
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devicenull posted:Is it very cold where you are? Pipe may have frozen. It's been about -15 with wind chill yesterday and this morning. Freezing was my first thought, but we've never had a problem before here. I tried running a ton of hot water through all the fixtures in that room, hoping it would warm up and melt any ice blockage on that line (assuming they're run near each other), but it doesn't seem to have made any difference.
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Feb 14, 2016 17:21
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We're having 2 contractors come in and bid on renovating a bathroom. It is a big renovation of a very small bathroom. We are flipping the entire thing including the door to convert it from the small bathroom of shame no one uses to the small ensuite bathroom of shame we will use all the time. New fixtures all around including tub & toilet, adding an exhaust fan, replacing the rusted-semi-open slat window, shrinking a closet on the other side, moving the closet doors, and all the trimmings. (RIP Kid Sinister's 120V Gloryhole.) This is our first time contracting someone to do work for us. Oh god this is a lot of money and risk. Contractor claims there are no permits needed because nothing we're doing touches anything load bearing or otherwise "major" - I pressed him on if we needed permits several times how I would rather pull one to be safe if he was at all concerned. He claims no, I will see if the second contractor agrees. We found the contractor by talking to the GC who did a gorgeous massive renovation of my in-laws house. Finding the second one is going to be harder as we are new to this area. Plus we're going to do a copper repipe (w/ service line replacement) at the same time to replace the vintage 1947 galvanized "pipe" that currently runs our house. We have the plumber for that all worked out. tl;dr Bathroom renovation + copper repipe: We know to check their license with the state and get a copy of their proof of insurance, but what obvious warning signs should we be looking for in the designs, the contract, etc? How are pay splits typically handled?
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Feb 14, 2016 17:46
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Dragyn posted:My toilet won't fill I would be terrified that water is slowly filling up somewhere in a void or cavity in your walls. Can you look at the meter and see if you are using water with every thing else off? The meter should have a little spinner that moves when you flush or run a sink. If it's moving with everything off, cut the supply to the house. Also, might want to check again after it warms up.
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Feb 14, 2016 20:31
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H110Hawk posted:This is our first time contracting someone to do work for us. Oh god this is a lot of money and risk. Contractor claims there are no permits needed because nothing we're doing touches anything load bearing or otherwise "major" - I pressed him on if we needed permits several times how I would rather pull one to be safe if he was at all concerned. He claims no, I will see if the second contractor agrees. Check with you AHJ. If they don't have a website that lists it, call the building inspector's office. If none of that actually requires a permit, you have extremely lax code enforcement in your area; you've described at least four things that would individually require permits for me.
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Feb 14, 2016 22:47
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Dragyn posted:My toilet won't fill My money is on that the pipe is frozen, but you could try the air compressor. Basically you shut off your main valve, open another cold valve nearby, gather up a bunch of rags by the toilet, then try and blast air down the toilet line. Have someone else watch the valve you opened to see if anything comes out. Also, if someone left a Stanley steamer in the bowl, you can always flush a toilet with a 5 gallon bucket of water. Don't forget to fill up the trap afterward.
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Feb 14, 2016 23:07
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