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My H6 Outback I had a soft whine on acceleration over 30mph or so that sounded and behaved a lot like that center bearing issue mentioned earlier in the thread. It started a few thousand miles ago and I've been listening and praying that it wouldn't get worse. Last week I replaced the (fairly dirty) air filter. The sound is gone. It must have been intake noise.  Jamal. is the 100/0 split and clutch lockup why I get a little shudder accelerating on ice sometimes? Is that normal or are my rear diff bushings likely suspect?
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Feb 5, 2016 02:04
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Boys who love boys
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Well, the clutch pack is at least a little more sophisticated than front wheel spin = give clutch lockup. It will preemptively provide lock based on throttle position and steering angle and speed as well. So it always gives it a bit of lock when you're starting out for example so that you don't end up in that front wheels are spinning "bam" ok now we're moving like you get with stuff like part time 4wd auto in trucks. However, this is irrelevant because your h6 outback I think has a vtd system which uses a more complicated differential that does actually have a mechanical connection from the output to the front and rear wheels all of the time. And then from that it uses a clutch pack to control the amount of lockup. This comes in some auto wrxes and is a lot like dccd without the dial.
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Feb 5, 2016 02:28
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Do cobb accessports actually increase all 3 of response, power, and fuel economy? I keep seeing it said about them and it's popping up in Australian facebook groups and I honestly don't see how it can be true/if it is, surely theres a downside somewhere in reliability?
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Feb 7, 2016 13:51
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Pick two of those things. They provide a generic retune of your ecu parameters, at fairly conservative levels.
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Feb 7, 2016 15:03
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Well, technically you can get all 3, the OTS maps are better than oem but not nearly as good as a e-tune, and both of those still aren't as good as a protune on a dyno by a competent* tuner The trade-off is going to be emissions in some cases, the stock tune is made to pass the EPA standards, the aftermarket tune is not. More power can result in less reliability, but mild tunes that sacrifice ecofriendliness are most likely going to be more reliable than the oem tune. The other trade-off for those increases is just price. The oem tune is designed to work on every car that leaves the factory that will operate in any environment the vehicle is sold in, small differences within the tolerances on an engine will change how much power you can get out of it. A custom tune is one that is tailored for your particular car which means it can push the boundaries more due not being restricted to working on any generic engine. It would be very cost prohibitive for the oem to tune every single car that goes through production individually, and then keep all those custom tunes on file in case of issues down the line, and I'm not even sure on the legality of it unless they had an EPA certified lab in-house to verify emissions on each custom tune. So yeah, off the shelf tunes are good and benefit from not being restricted by the environmental standards, Email tunes are better due to getting some information back from your car to customize the tune, and professional tunes are the best when done by a competent tuner due to having the most data to work with on how your particular car is operating which allows for very fine tuning of your custom tune. *absolutely key
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Feb 7, 2016 16:01
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I ran the cobb tune that came with the accessport on my 09 wrx before doing any mods and it increased my MPG by one or two and definitely gave me a bit more power in the lower gears. Compared to a protune though, it's completely negligible. The accessport is a neat device to have anyway if you're looking to get one. I get a lot of use out of mine and my tuner always gives me things to look out for and check on it when he changes things.
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Feb 7, 2016 16:08
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Do cobb accessports actually increase all 3 of response, power, and fuel economy? I keep seeing it said about them and it's popping up in Australian facebook groups and I honestly don't see how it can be true/if it is, surely theres a downside somewhere in reliability? The first two year. The third maybe if you can stay off the throttle. As will any good tune. I believe a good dyno tune will increase reliability, but probably not a cobb tune. Probably won't make it worse as the oem tunes are pretty lovely.
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Feb 7, 2016 17:42
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You dont have to worry about emissions in Australia unless you pull out your cat or something and your car goes over an inspection pit, which isnt ever going to happen unless your car looks stupidly defectable to the cops. I wasnt going to get one, I'd go with a custom tune. Its just that Ive seen that said about them and some normally smart dudes are parroting how amazing they are and I just didn't believe the marketing crap.
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Feb 8, 2016 00:42
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Is anyone familiar with the auto that would be in an 04 Forester XT? I assume its the 4EAT? It slips extremely bad going from 2nd to 3rd gear. Like freewheeling until you let off the gas, bad. Is that the end for the trans or is it something that could be fixed with a solenoid repair?
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Feb 8, 2016 14:13
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Highly recommend a protune by a good tuner. It really is night and day compared to OTS. Though that did send me down the rabbit hole at a faster rate. Maybe I'll just do an exhaust. Oh wait I should probably do some injectors just in case. Next thing you know you're pricing out a bigger turbo and a built block... I regret nothing. Thanks Jamal, it all started with that kartboy setup I purchased from you.
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Feb 8, 2016 14:45
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my 99 Forrester: Pulled the dipstick this morning, came out opaque brown. gently caress. it's had a coolant leak for awhile -not much to worry about- then it started drinking coolant on cold/coldest days recently and this morning just putting more fluid in didn't cut it. gently caress.
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Feb 8, 2016 16:15
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On my 04 WRX, I have a SPT hot air, a cob downpipe and next weekend, probably a Q300 cat back. I don't really plan on doing anything more engine wise. Is there anything else I should look at before considering a pro tune? Maybe injector cleaning? I've got 170k miles on mine.
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Feb 8, 2016 22:22
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Sadi posted:On my 04 WRX, I have a SPT hot air, a cob downpipe and next weekend, probably a Q300 cat back. I don't really plan on doing anything more engine wise. Is there anything else I should look at before considering a pro tune? Maybe injector cleaning? I've got 170k miles on mine. 170k on a stock WRX? A rebuilt engine would be on my list.
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Feb 8, 2016 23:13
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daslog posted:170k on a stock WRX? A rebuilt engine would be on my list. I'd do a leakdown on it before putting money into it.
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Feb 8, 2016 23:14
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nm posted:I'd do a leakdown on it before putting money into it. It's a good idea, but a leakdown is not going to tell that your #4 Rod bearing is about to start spinning. 170k is an excellent run a for an EJ20, but if it was mine I'd change out the internals before all my stuff got wrecked by bearing material swimming in the oil.
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Feb 8, 2016 23:25
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Fart Pipe posted:Is anyone familiar with the auto that would be in an 04 Forester XT? I assume its the 4EAT? It slips extremely bad going from 2nd to 3rd gear. Like freewheeling until you let off the gas, bad. Is that the end for the trans or is it something that could be fixed with a solenoid repair? Usually when the 4EAT slips, even if it wasn't because the clutch packs were failed, it murders them in moments by slipping.
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Feb 10, 2016 17:06
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daslog posted:It's a good idea, but a leakdown is not going to tell that your #4 Rod bearing is about to start spinning. Yeah its 170k on the factory motor. I take it doing the bearings on the EJ is a motor out operation, wont be just dropping the oil pan? I mean, part of me says just runer till shes done and be saving for a EJ207 out of a V7 or something.
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Feb 10, 2016 18:34
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si posted:Usually when the 4EAT slips, even if it wasn't because the clutch packs were failed, it murders them in moments by slipping. Huh, weird, he said its been doing it for like 6 months but the fluid didnt look all that great. It wasnt terrible but it wasnt as red as it should be.
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Feb 10, 2016 18:39
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Weird sound post incoming. I have a 2013 STI and I just recently had a downpipe/catback/fuel pump installed and the car pro-tuned again. It drives really smooth now and I can't really complain. But, now I'm getting a weird noise when I lift off the throttle around 2600 - 3200 RPM. It sounds very much like this, except a bit higher pitched: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZUbo_mNDZM&t=18s It is much more audible at high altitude, and seems to happen most often in 3rd/4th gear right after lifting off the throttle. It doesn't happen when I'm at WOT though, it only seems to happen at around 50% throttle. I've done a bit of research and landed on https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/blow-off-valves/gfb-t9103-go-fast-bits-mach-2-tms-recirculating-diverter-valve I'm just curious if that will be a solution to the problem or if it's something I should really worry about at all. pctD fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Feb 12, 2016 |
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Feb 12, 2016 03:01
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If its the same thing as the sr20 in that video,it's still there at high rpm you just cant hear it over the engine. People hoseclamp d cells into their bov piping here to do it on purpose. Sounds like rear end unless you have a lot of boost on a big engine from a big turbo but w/e. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fq2ekzptguo An Australian National Treasure, the VL. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Feb 12, 2016 |
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Feb 12, 2016 03:16
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:If its the same thing as the sr20 in that video,it's still there at high rpm you just cant hear it over the engine. People hoseclamp d cells into their bov piping on sr20s here to do it on purpose. Sounds like rear end unless you have a lot of boost on a big engine from a big turbo but w/e. Yea I'm not in love with the sound and I'd like to get rid of it completely.
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Feb 12, 2016 03:19
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The only thing I know that causes it, is not having a valve. If you still have one, maybe it's stuck shut? I'd be talking to the guy who tuned it and asking him about it. I know that blocking it without a tune makes any car run rich, but if yours was tuned with it like that, it probably isn't. I wouldn't be surprised if the tuner blocked it cause lots of people love the sound and he assumed you would too. Did it start as soon as you got it back?
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Feb 12, 2016 03:31
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Compressor surge happens when you have a lot of boost at a low flow rate. So for example the throttle closes and the bpv can't flow enough air fast enough, so you have pressure and nowhere for it to go except back out the turbo. Can actually happen while on throttle at low rpm in high gear as well. Anyway, unless you are noticing some sort of a drivability issue or extra lag I would not worry about it. Maybe make sure the line to the bpv is on there solidly and there's no kink in the hose back to the inlet.
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Feb 12, 2016 08:07
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I ran some test runs tonight to see if it would happen and I couldn't reproduce it again. Thinking more about it there's very few times it happens at sea level, but it happens very regularly when I'm in Tahoe around ~6000ft altitude. I'm not sure if that means anything but it's obviously making the difference. Would a higher flow BPV help? Seems like not much investment for peace of mind and no birds in my engine compartment.
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Feb 12, 2016 08:13
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I have found the stock bpv to work fine at higher flow rates and more boost, plus you are having this happen not at full throttle, so I couldn't say for sure a new one would make a difference. Plus aftermarket valves tend to have stiffer springs which could even make it worse. Can you take a video of it? jamal fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Feb 12, 2016 |
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Feb 12, 2016 08:19
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Yea I'll be in Tahoe on Presidents' Day so I'll take a video and data log then. In the meantime I'll check the hoses and make sure everything is buttoned up properly.
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Feb 12, 2016 08:36
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In the process of swapping my trans and noticed the clutch disc is pretty worn. Wondering if I can get away with replacing just the clutch disc, and reusing the existing pressure plate. The surface is in decent condition and it isn't warped. Anyone have any opinions on this? It's an ACT HD clutch kit that I installed 11 months ago.
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Feb 14, 2016 21:15
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Seems like a pretty short period of time to need replacement, but I don't see a reason not to. You might get a bit of chatter at first. For a wrx they're like 120, sti a bit more.
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Feb 14, 2016 21:34
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Question. How much effort is in upgrading cranks and pistons? I mean I know the engine has to come out and all of the work needed replacing seals and using torque specs. I've done an EJ25D gasket job before. But about the upgrade itself, am I going to need an entire autoshop to make sure it doesn't cause premature wear or failure? Or is it more of a drop in replacement? I was looking for a good youtube video on how it's done and wasn't able to find anything very thorough. The car in question is a 2015 WRX. The pistons would be a pre-engineered kit and not a custom job. I don't know which vendor yet but I'm trying to pave the way for a moderate turbo upgrade.
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Feb 15, 2016 21:58
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You can do drop in pistons without splitting the block, and it can work fairly well. Especially on a newer engine with fresh cross hatching. Ideally, the block gets disassembled and re-honed to a more exact size to fit specific pistons that have actually been measured. The factory for example uses two different pistons based on what the bores actually measure to maintain closer tolerances on piston to wall clearance. Manley, an aftermarket manufacturer, also makes their drop in pistons in the oem "a" and "b" sizes but with a bit of extra clearance built in due to the different material used. I have noticed that most aftermarket manufacturers of pistons for subarus recommend a fairly large gap, and I like things to be a little closer, although it depends on the piston material and engine use. For moderate power increases and street cars I like either mahle's 4032 alloy pistons or cosworth, which have a similar but proprietary material (downside is they cost almost twice as much). All the other popular manufacturers (cp, je, wiseco, manley), only seem to offer pistons in 2618, which is "stronger" but has a higher coefficient of expansion and needs larger gaps, and so their pistons are sized a bit small relative to the recommended bore to provide more clearance. This means the 99.5 mm pistons are actually their recommended clearance smaller than 99.5mm, while OEM 99.5mm pistons are larger. So like I said, the best way would be to buy a piston in a larger size (like 99.75 instead of the stock 99.5), and then have the bore enlarged and re-honed to provide a specific clearance. These guys have a really good machine and explain it a bit in this and other videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJtSnEtJMo8 However, the easiest, cheapest, and fastest way to ditch the stock crap pistons that do this is to get something like the mahle 99.5 drop ins. Since they are of the lower expanding alloy there is less extra clearance built in so things should not be too far off. The other important thing is ensuring the ring gaps are precise and not too large, or you'll get excessive blowby and oil consumption. Patience and a good ring gapping tool are required. And then if you get into changing cranks and rods it is very important to properly measure and size bearings. At the minimum you need a bore gauge and a few mics (not plastigage), and maybe a few sets of bearings to mix and match to get even clearances. The stock cranks are pretty decent, and the rods are ok for a fair amount of power, so you don't really need to worry about changing the rods until like 500hp, and a new crank is more about oiling performance and weight and being able to rev higher. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Feb 15, 2016 |
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Feb 15, 2016 23:52
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Your post is full of so much useful information of exactly what I'm looking for. I owe you a beer or something.
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Feb 16, 2016 00:25
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um excuse me posted:Question. How much effort is in upgrading cranks and pistons? I mean I know the engine has to come out and all of the work needed replacing seals and using torque specs. I've done an EJ25D gasket job before. But about the upgrade itself, am I going to need an entire autoshop to make sure it doesn't cause premature wear or failure? Or is it more of a drop in replacement? I was looking for a good youtube video on how it's done and wasn't able to find anything very thorough. The car in question is a 2015 WRX. The pistons would be a pre-engineered kit and not a custom job. I don't know which vendor yet but I'm trying to pave the way for a moderate turbo upgrade. Out of curiosity, are you planning on doing rods as well? I only ask because those seem to be the weak link on the FA. I tend to see a lot of posts about rod issues in all the 15+ owner groups.
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Feb 16, 2016 00:49
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um excuse me posted:Your post is full of so much useful information of exactly what I'm looking for. I owe you a beer or something. Well, I am an aftermarket parts dealer... And actually that was in reference to the ej25 but it all should be fairly applicable. The timing chain and low mount turbo system will definitely add some complexity in the work, and I am not sure how well the new pistons and rods hold up. I know Turn in Concepts has slapped a big Borg Warner EFR7670 on theirs and are making quite a bit of power on the stock block. I don't think many people have taken these apart yet. jamal fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Feb 16, 2016 |
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Feb 16, 2016 01:00
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TheFargate posted:Out of curiosity, are you planning on doing rods as well? I only ask because those seem to be the weak link on the FA. I tend to see a lot of posts about rod issues in all the 15+ owner groups. Rods are the main reason I'm doing it. I see all of the horror stories you do. In the end I only want to dyno 330-375ish, which would put me right on the line of questionable reliability. Also people blowing up their FA blocks on E85. But that's another thing. Details are wishy washy on whether or not that is the real issue there. jamal posted:You could buy parts from me... I didn't know you sold stuff like that. Got a link handy? I'm not ready to buy at this exact moment, but I'd be glad to help you out when the time comes. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Feb 16, 2016 |
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Feb 16, 2016 01:01
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Just send me an email sometime. peter@functionauto.com took the store down awhile ago to re-work it a bit. Here is tic's car: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2768665 Turns into a shitshow for awhile because it's on nasioc, sounds like the rods are the bigger issue in the new engines. I think until more development happens I would stick with the standard exhaust/tune stuff. Otherwise you might end up as basically a test car for shops and end up with a broken motor. jamal fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Feb 16, 2016 |
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Feb 16, 2016 01:05
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um excuse me posted:Rods are the main reason I'm doing it. I see all of the horror stories you do. In the end I only want to dyno 330-375ish, which would put me right on the line of questionable reliability. Also people blowing up their FA blocks on E85. But that's another thing. Details are wishy washy on whether or not that is the real issue there. I'm currently in a similar boat with my EJ. I ran out of things to bolt on, so I'm looking at doing a Dom 1.5xtr. Current plan is to slap it on with a few supporting stuff I'm missing and get a conservative tune while I save for a full blown build. Probably going to just swap in an IAG stage 2 tuff block with a few other goodies and call it done.
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Feb 16, 2016 01:27
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jamal posted:Just send me an email sometime. peter@functionauto.com It's almost like your reading me like a book. The reason I'm not ready to buy is because I like to know exactly what I'm doing before I do it. No one seems to know much about the limits of the engine yet, so I'm not going to push it. Grimmspeed has a similar thing going. It's like a race watching those two go at it.
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Feb 16, 2016 01:30
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Killer bee has a setup in the works as well
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Feb 16, 2016 01:32
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jamal posted:
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Feb 16, 2016 01:38
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Not going to be for a while, but pro/cons of rebuilding my ej20t vs buying a low kms wrx ej25? Apart from ecu its a straight swap right?
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Feb 16, 2016 01:45
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