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Yeah, I kinda wanted some excuse to use my welder more. I've not realized you could do TIG with a stick welder without some kinda add-on stuff like on my welder. I guess what the addon module is for then is the foot pedal and stuff.
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Feb 4, 2016 21:11
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The add-on will usually get you High Frequency start and a foot pedal. AC for Aluminium may or may not be available in the box. I forgot to add earlier you would also need an Argon bottle and a regulator. Sounds to me like even if you rivet the sheet metal you still have some structural stuff that might need welding. Something has to hold the hopper right? Edit: http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/scratch-start-tig-welder.html
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Feb 4, 2016 21:17
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Ah well they stopped making my welder in the late 80s so finding a module like that would be very hard. Read up on this scratch start TIG stuff and it looks like it could be a useful addition. But money money...
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Feb 4, 2016 21:51
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Money is temporary, tools are forever.
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Feb 4, 2016 22:10
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Slung Blade posted:Money is temporary, tools are forever. Offer not valid at Harbor Freight.
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Feb 4, 2016 22:26
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Speaking of TIG and spending money, has anyone tried repairing TIG water hoses? My dad when moving poo poo around ran the TIG welder over the cable because he didn't know better, and she sprung a leak. I believe this is a WP20 torch if I recall correctly. I still need to figure out if it's the supply line with the conductor, return hose, or both.
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Feb 4, 2016 23:41
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I got the truck picked up and in the driveway of the old shop. I'm at home getting lunch now, will be heading back this afternoon to start removing small stuff out of the basement.
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Feb 5, 2016 18:16
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I need to cut a smallish air compressor tank (30 gallon) into a few pieces; basically cutting the round top and bottom off so I have a thin cylinder. I have access to pretty much any hand or shop tool, from hacksaws to a plasma cutter. What's the best way to get a straight cut? I thought about using the plasma cutter, but I can't think of a way to rig up a guide that isn't complicated.
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Feb 5, 2016 22:57
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Pagan posted:I need to cut a smallish air compressor tank (30 gallon) into a few pieces; basically cutting the round top and bottom off so I have a thin cylinder. I have access to pretty much any hand or shop tool, from hacksaws to a plasma cutter.
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Feb 5, 2016 23:01
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Wrap a piece of thin cardboard/poster board around your cylinder to layout a straight line. I would use an air-powered cut-off tool to do the work.
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Feb 6, 2016 02:10
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What absentmindedwelder said, but use a grinder instead.
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Feb 6, 2016 14:31
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I decided to take out my welder again and just try and make strings, I've had this welder since august but no real time to use it or even learn stick welding, since I've been thinking about all kinds of weird welding poo poo recently I better get some experience under my belt.... Stick welding must be harder than I thought or I am doing something wrong. I loaned the welder to my dad who is an actual welder by trade and he said it worked fine for him. I tested on this piece of 12mm (almost half inch) by 1m long (3ft) steel I bought for future projects and I had lots of sticking and trouble to get the welder to start an arch. When I did get one started it didn't last long. I maxed up the amps (150A) to see if that helped but not really, less sticking perhaps. Is this just a matter of technique, or am I getting a bad electrical connection on the steel? I didn't clean it very well, there was mill scale on it I think. I've also had my pack of electrodes in my shop for over a month, I wonder if they could have absorbed a lot of moisture. Or it's just my technique...
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Feb 6, 2016 19:13
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It's your technique. Even electrodes a few years old should still work. Chances are your arc length is too long. Stick welding is not hard, it just takes the right technique and lots of practice. Average welder goes through 200-300 lbs of electrodes before they start getting good. What kind of electrode are using, and can you post pics? iForge posted:What absentmindedwelder said, but use a grinder instead. I spent so many years without an angle grinder that I sometimes forget about it for cutting stuff. The grinder will work alot better then the cut off tool. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Feb 7, 2016 |
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Feb 7, 2016 00:44
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I'm using electrodes called Elga P48s, 2.5mm. I'm not sure we have the same electrodes here that you guys do. It's an all purpose DC electrode anyway. said to be very easy to weld with and produce good welds. I'm guessing I had electrical problems too because the surface was kinda dirty and I could drag the electrode all over the surface and not get an arc. EDIT: On the welding rods, the Elga P48S is an analogue to the ESAB OK48 (most popular rod) and apparently in america those are known as 7018s. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 12:31 on Feb 7, 2016 |
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Feb 7, 2016 09:20
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7018 require a good amount of current and are difficult to start. You may or may not have workpiece grounding issues. Also when they say 7018 is a DC rod they mean it. If you have an AC buzzbox you may have some issues. What kind of welding mahcine? I would recommend starting with whatever you equivalent of 6011 is.
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Feb 7, 2016 13:44
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It's a Kemppi which is a finnish brand and considered good quality here. It's an old style rectifier so it gives DC. Pretty nifty machine, it uses two phases out of a 3-phase outlet to produce what is best described as 400V single-phase, or so I was told.
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Feb 7, 2016 14:21
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The other thing to keep in mind with 7018 is typically the electrode burns faster then the flux coating. What I mean by this is if you burn a rod and stop, you usually see that the flux forms a raised crater around the end of the metal electrode. So that means your arc length is longer then it appears, so a really super tight arc is critical to 7018 welding. You typically have to "jab" the electrode in a quick motion to start it to break up the flux and any poo poo on metal. Because of this, it is not great for tack welds and root passes.
AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Feb 7, 2016 |
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Feb 7, 2016 14:33
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Been looking and found some sources that help me convert AWS to local equivalents but I can't find anything for 6011 in particular, 6010 and 6012 but no 6011. One of the local cheap-skate made in china stores has some electrodes made to 6013 specs, 5 bucks for 2lbs of 2mm sticks, worth a try perhaps. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Feb 7, 2016 |
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Feb 7, 2016 19:47
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NO 6013 is junk. go with the 6010. Moving details to follow shortly...
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Feb 7, 2016 23:55
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The move was a success! Between Friday and Saturday Martin and iForge helped me move stuff out of the basement, move stuff around, and load up the truck. Saturday late afternoon the box truck was full, unloaded in the new shop, and brought back to the old shop. Today (Sunday) we had the gantry crane and lathe to move plus some other miscellaneous items. Everything big and heavy (including the mill parts) was either on a pallet or had wheels under it. Along with the truck's lift-gate I put ALL my moving equipment, the engine hoist, floor jack, gantry crane, and let's not forget the pallet jack which saw heavy use. You need a pallet jack... trust me on this. To move the lathe we made a "pallet" underneath of it using 4x4's. iForge is shown tightening down a Lag Bolt using a ratchet with a 3 ft extension. Not shown was a lot of fuckery with a floor jack, bottle jack, and lots of blocks of wood. If I had time I would have welded up a jig to use the bottle jack in less then an 3/4' of an inch gap, but that will be a future project.  The pallet jack and a some plywood helped to get the lathe out of the garage and into the driveway. The gantry crane in the foreground was used to lift the lathe off the ground so a pickup truck could drive underneath of it. Some pipe and the box truck's lift gate was used to help adjust the height of the gantry.  Lathe was safely lifted and then tied down to the pickup truck. Bonus on Martin's truck having built in hold down D-rings in the bed! (it also has a built in 440w inveter with a waterproof 120v outlet in the bed.) What you can't see is a strap holding the lathe against the front of the bed so it couldn't shift forward or backward. The gantry crane was dissembled and put in the 26' box truck.  At the new shop the gantry crane was assembled (using the small welding table, a 4x4, and the lift-gate on the truck) and the lathe was safely lifted out of Martin's truck into the shop. It's really cool being able to drive both a pickup or a 26' box truck right into the shop!  I didn't take pictures yet of all the stuff in the shop, there's more then you see in the pic above but I once the milling machine is assembled and all the stuff is better organized, and I build some shelves, I'll have plenty of room to work with. I still have alot of work to do packing up small hand tools, parts, and other poo poo left in the basement and the garage into bins, which I'll be able to move with my car. I still have to move the parts washer, that'll be a separate trip in my Dad's pickup. All in all i'm very pleased how the move went and very thankful that it went off with out injudry/incident, Ryder was silly enough to actually rent me a huge truck, and that I had 2 great friends and time to help me and lend use of their trucks. Going forward I came to the conclusion I need a loving fork lift. That is totally on my shopping list (a used one). In the mean time I have an idea of a fixture I could fabricate to make adjusting the gantry crane easier and safer.
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Feb 8, 2016 02:06
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So... I bought a welder. A montgomery ward (obviously rebranded) stick welder. it's adjustable from 25 to 325amps, is fed on 220. This leads to a lot of questions... First, what helmet should I get? Cheaper is better, but I do value my eyes. What other protective gear should I be looking at? Gloves, sleeves, full welding jacket? Are the cotton ones ok, or is it leather or nothing? I know ~nothing~ about rods. What are the key words I should be looking in to? I plan on buying a selection in different sizes to match the material thickness I might be welding. While I'm at it, what are the the standard slip fit welding wire plugs called? The ones on my welder are just "slip in" and look like what I've seen in welding videos. I'll get pictures of the machine tomorrow. I should also share the metal tool tray I built with a few other people at the local hackerspace:  Mine's in the middle.
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Feb 8, 2016 08:40
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Helmet: For stick welding I prefer an old fashioned one, I like Fibre-Metal. Harbor Freight usually sells an OK auto darkening one for $40 ish, however if you are doing stick welding it will get mighty dirty quickly and the auto darkening stuff is hard to clean. I use the AD hook only for TIG where there is no smoke generated. I recommend wearing ear plugs and safety glasses so spatter that makes it inside the hood won't hurt your eyes and ears. You may want a hat on to to protect your hair. You definitely need good gloves, If you aren't going to be welding in tight spaces or out of position, you can probably skip a welding jacket and leathers and just wear a long sleeved 100% cotton shirt. Rods... 3/32" 6011/6010, 1/8" 6011/6010, and 1/8" 7018 will do just about anything you need in the hobby shop. Sounds like you are talking about quick disconnects for welding cables. Scroll down about three quarters of the way and look for the Tweco ones here: http://store.cyberweld.com/manwelelac.html Your local welding shop will probably have them as well. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 12:14 on Feb 8, 2016 |
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Feb 8, 2016 12:11
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That's exactly the sort of advice I was looking for. Thank you. Looks like I have a trip to the local welding supply, and hardware store this week. I need to pick up some cable and plugs to make an extension cord for the thing... and maybe the bits to put a 220 plug on the outside of my house. First welding projects should be a welding cart and a welding table, right? :-)
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Feb 8, 2016 16:30
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Your first welding project should be padding a plate to practice your technique.
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Feb 8, 2016 17:05
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gently caress this winter weather for that though. And it wasn't a good idea doing it indoors either, in a woodworking shop. Still if I atleast had a roof and a bench... I think thatäs a future project for me, some kind of outdoor workbench I can fold down or up against the wall under the carport.
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Feb 8, 2016 17:19
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HF sells a little folding welding table I just ordered to my rented mailbox in NY that seems decently well-reviewed, quality control's as iffy as you'd expect and I'm expecting it to be pretty flimsy but I read people saying that sourcing the metal for a similarly-dimensioned table will probably cost you the $80 it runs, and I need garage space more than I need a sturdy-rear end big table, so ~whatever~
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Feb 8, 2016 18:32
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Ambrose Burnside posted:HF sells a little folding welding table I just ordered to my rented mailbox in NY that seems decently well-reviewed, quality control's as iffy as you'd expect and I'm expecting it to be pretty flimsy but I read people saying that sourcing the metal for a similarly-dimensioned table will probably cost you the $80 it runs, and I need garage space more than I need a sturdy-rear end big table, so ~whatever~ Got one. Don't expect more than a sturdy TV tray. I like it for the price I got it at.
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Feb 9, 2016 03:43
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Asked around about 6010/11 rods on a swedish forum and most people told me not to bother, stick to OK 48.00, all the time, every time, best all--round rod in the universe, worth learning to use it properly in long rum, cheap and super durable etc etc. Just relaying this because I find the differences in attitudes interesting/humorous.
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Feb 9, 2016 06:55
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There are 4 groups of electrodes: 1. Fast Freeze 2. Fast Fill 3. Fill Freeze 4. Low Hydrogen 6010 and 6011 are in the Fast Freeze group. This is great for general purpose welding. They have deep penetration, and can work well on dirty or not-new metal, making them great for repair work. The Fast Freeze nature allows them to be used to fill wide gaps well, making them ideal for doing root passes. 6010 is DC only and 6011 can be used on AC or DC. These rods can be used in any position. Most hobby guys won't use anything in the Fast Fill Group, example would be a 7024. This is super high deposition electrode that can used only in the flat and horizontal positions, uses an assload of amps, and is really only used on really thick steel. Fill Freeze is kind of the weird odd-ball group. 6013 is in this category. I still maintain 6013 is loving useless. I'm not familiar with any other electrodes in this group. Perhaps other people have experiences with this category they can share. I've yet to talk to anyone who does. Low Hydrogen. this is where your 7018 lives. It's a medium deposition electrode that deposits more metal faster then your fast freeze electrodes but not as much as your fast fill. Good luck filling up gaps with any finesse, working on thin steel, dirty metal, or making lots of tack welds. It makes beautiful strong welds on well fitted and clean steel fabrications. Works in all positions and mainly for DC. They have an AC version of 7018 but I never got it to work on my equipment. So long story short for a well rounded welding shop you need electrodes from the Fast Freeze Group and the Low Hydrogen group. Whatever classification system your region uses, they will still fit under these 4 groups. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Feb 9, 2016 |
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Feb 9, 2016 15:59
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:6013 is loving useless. This has certainly been my experience. I've welded everything from almost paper thin sheet metal, to half inch plate with 6011. It does everything I need, and I can get it fairly inexpensively almost everywhere, even lovely hardware stores.
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Feb 9, 2016 16:25
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I've been googling around for some more input on locally available electrodes and I read that OK 43.32 is a good electrode for thinner stuff and is easy to use, or perhaps OK 46.16 (E7014). Someone was raving about Selectarc 7016 as a 7018 alternative too and recommended everyone to try it. Seems pricey what little I found, 10 bucks for a 10-pack.... The 7018 stuff I got in ~3/32" size was 34 euros for a pack of 178pcs. Also looked at the two packs I got with my welder (it was 100 bucks with them included) and they're Strong Line XK4832, or another 7018 electrode, except 1/8" size. I am loaded for 7018 for years. EDIT: I found the big electrode handbook by ESAB, 500 pages of stuff and every electrode had an american AWS code. The only 60xx electrodes in the whole book were three 6013 variants... His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Feb 9, 2016 |
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Feb 9, 2016 16:51
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Slung Blade posted:This has certainly been my experience. I'm just gonna chime in and say that I use 6013. For one and only one very specific purpose that probably almost no one else has: repairing sheet metal on old jeeps. It's how they stuck the WWII jeeps together, and when cutting/welding body sections back in it's the only way to make it look right. GMAW or FCAW just won't cut it for the crazies that have their rusted out farm field "gems" brought to the resto shop I occasionally do work at. On sheet metal it welds fast, leaves a fat (somewhat pleasing if that's what your going for) blob just like the factories, and doesn't over penetrate when you run it DC. It's a super short and soft arc that I've heard referred to as a "drag rod" and I've got a feeling it was chosen for this type of assembly because it would take me about 2 minutes to show you how to use it for this particular operation if you already know how the welding machine turns on/off and it was already set properly. After that "training" you'd be keeping up just fine with the assembly line doing at least a minimum acceptable quality level of work. I've never had any success with it elsewhere, because frankly I don't see the point of it when I've got an electric glue gun (wirefeed) for sheet metal that's way easier to use and doesn't leave slag everywhere. If I only had a stick welder in the shop I probably would choose it for sheet metal.
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Feb 9, 2016 16:58
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I have approximately a metric assload of these things. (I work for Kraft, and we recently went around replacing the cheese racks, and I kept the ones destined for the dumpster.) This isn't too terribly safe to weld, is it?  I think that's galvanized, I know it's some kind of coating over the steel. Or is this one of those "outdoors on a brisk day and stand upwind" things? Will the standard organic vapor painter's gas mask cartridge help any against it? Also, I'm kinda surprised there aren't more, if any, welding masks that look like Stormtrooper helmets, with the bulges around the cheeks to make room for a proper respirator underneath. Instead, we get to just suck on a filter can and use a swimmer's noseclip, or pay $301 for this badass-looking rig:  Why not make a $20 version of the $10 welding mask with chipmunk cheeks so you can wear a respirator under it?
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Feb 9, 2016 23:21
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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I assume it's because the respirator filter elements have to operate safely and effectively even while being showered with welding sparks and dosed with lots of UV. But that's just a guess.
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Feb 10, 2016 00:02
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The 3M 6000 series fits under most regular welding hoods no problem: The 3M P100 cartridges should be fine. Not sure if you need the organic vapor or not off the top of my head. Clean the metal as good as you can first.
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Feb 10, 2016 00:04
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:The 3M 6000 series fits under most regular welding hoods no problem: http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/444511O/3m-respiratory-product-selection-guide.pdf Search the PDF for "metal fumes" and you'll find they specify the 8512 or 8514 http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/639110O/3m-respirator-selection-guide.pdf specifies N95 particulate filter for zinc chloride, chromate, oxide, and stearate fumes, when there is no presence of oil. https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/565214O/3m-cartridge-filter-guide-and-brochure.pdf does not include any cartrige filter that is rated for zinc specifically. Possibly the 60929S, which is rated for mercury vapor, but I wouldn't count on it. Zinc Oxide is one of the fumes that causes Metal Fume Fever and is the primary concern when welding galvanized. I would stick with the N95 to be safe. e. Actually the N95 is just a dust mask, forget that, the Type P is specified in the 3M Respirator Filter Selection Guide, and I think that means the P100 qualifies. So you're right. I just wanted to be sure, because... well, for obvious reasons. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Feb 10, 2016 |
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Feb 10, 2016 00:16
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Good to know, I have the cartridges on my 7500 mask and it doesn't fit under the hood. The P100s should though. EDIT: Seems the preferred electrode for thin steel welding and repair is a 6013 based electrode here (OK 43.32). His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 14:25 on Feb 10, 2016 |
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Feb 10, 2016 07:52
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Got this giant bushing at work today to split into two pieces, made a quick video because I still think this poo poo is cool after 15 years. https://youtu.be/euc1lRCbw_U A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Feb 10, 2016 |
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Feb 10, 2016 17:06
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Delivery McGee posted:I think that's galvanized, I know it's some kind of coating over the steel. Or is this one of those "outdoors on a brisk day and stand upwind" things? Will the standard organic vapor painter's gas mask cartridge help any against it? Welding galvanized steel is hazardous to your health!! I don't think anybody here will directly endorse welding galvy, don't do it, lose the plating on the weld site and for a couple inches all around at least. Strip it with a mild acid or flapwheel/grind/etc it off. ...this doesn't mean that people don't weld directly on galvanized steel all the time, or that I haven't welded unstripped galvy myself with no apparent ill effects (turned a fan on next to the welding table pointed out the door). loving with your health is stupid, even if you think it'll probably be fine, so don't!- but that's arithmetic you've gotta do for yourself.
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Feb 10, 2016 18:48
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The impression I've gotten is that it's acceptable if you are careful and take precautions (outdoor in wind or have an extractor + mask)
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Feb 10, 2016 19:01
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