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InitialDave posted:*shrug* It's security theatre that doesn't really do a drat thing, save for better informing those of ill intent how to best avoid being caught. Considering that tsa caught what, over 2k people last year with loaded guns in their carry ons and I don't think they even charge these people.
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Feb 8, 2016 03:56
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BraveUlysses posted:Considering that tsa caught what, over 2k people last year with loaded guns in their carry ons and I don't think they even charge these people. People who accidentally leave guns in their carry-ons absolutely get charged. A friend of mine's father did that once. The judge applied a ludicrous amount of lenience because it was an honest mistake, and he got away with some public service, but still.
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Feb 8, 2016 04:07
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Safety Dance posted:People who accidentally leave guns in their carry-ons absolutely get charged. A friend of mine's father did that once. The judge applied a ludicrous amount of lenience because it was an honest mistake, and he got away with some public service, but still. My Dad thought he lost a hunting knife years ago, until it turned up in his luggage at the airport. They just told him to throw it away. He said "ok brb sry lol" I took it from him and tossed it in with my film canisters and through security we went. Equally as successful coming back into the states.
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Feb 8, 2016 14:53
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I have the smaller HF sandblasting cabinet and a cheap 18 gallon compressor. The cabinet is supposed to use venturi pressure or something to pickup blasting media from the bottom of the cabinet, but i just can't get enough sand moving. It's basically just blasting empty air. I saw some posts elsewhere saying the pressurized tank units like this work,, so I'm thinking about buying one and just routing its hoses into the cabinet I already have. http://www.harborfreight.com/40-lb-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-68992.html Will I just be wasting more money? The local blasting/powdercoating place is slow, expensive, and seems to randomly shut down and change ownership every 6 months.
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Feb 8, 2016 23:14
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Disassemble your blasting gun. I've got the same cabinet, and I've found weird rubber bits jamming up the tube that sucks up the blasting media before.
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Feb 8, 2016 23:33
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I've pulled out the nozzle and dont see any obstructions. I can occasionally get some good media movement, but it's usually just frustrating.
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Feb 9, 2016 00:16
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eddiewalker posted:I've pulled out the nozzle and dont see any obstructions. I can occasionally get some good media movement, but it's usually just frustrating. $5 says it's moisture. Media blasters need REALLY dry air. Any moisture in the air will condense in the expansion part of the nozzle, and clog it up.
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Feb 9, 2016 00:21
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sharkytm posted:$5 says it's moisture. Media blasters need REALLY dry air. Any moisture in the air will condense in the expansion part of the nozzle, and clog it up. Invest in a good desiccant/catch can.
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Feb 9, 2016 02:36
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I have a little inline dryer, but it seems to lower my pressure such that I get a single good blast with each trigger squeeze, then insufficient airflow to do anything at all. I probably need a bigger dryer if I'm going to use one. If moisture were my issue, I think I'd have clumps blocking the gun, though. I just don't think I can push the CFM necessary for the pickup. My next step is to see if I can find smaller tips. That's at least cheap to try.
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Feb 9, 2016 03:24
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So I picked up a couple Gearwrenches in 3/8" and 1/4" to replace my lovely HF combos and I still have slot on my wrench holder below the holder. Doesn't look like GW makes a 3/16" though. Sucks.
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Feb 9, 2016 03:36
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How much of an improvement would this be over my HF 5 drawer? https://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/tls/5439082968.html I've never heard of Homak before. Are they any good?
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Feb 9, 2016 16:36
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Northern Tool sells them in-store if you want to see a couple. Costco used to carry them too. IIRC the thread likes them? I liked what I saw at Northern Tool enough to be cross-shopping them against the $390 HF one for a while.
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Feb 9, 2016 17:21
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Wasabi the J posted:Farewell Knipex Pliers-wrench. You were too good for this world. My condolences. Too bad you didn't have time to cut a quarter inch off the handle.
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Feb 9, 2016 22:36
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Safety Dance posted:How much of an improvement would this be over my HF 5 drawer? Won't be better in mobility but will hold more. Homak is also nice there was a guy at my dealership had a box smaller than that and it was super nice.
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Feb 10, 2016 01:30
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kastein posted:My condolences. Too bad you didn't have time to cut a quarter inch off the handle. Just an excuse now to buy the mini version I've been eyeing!
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Feb 10, 2016 01:42
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Safety Dance posted:I've never heard of Homak before. Are they any good? The modern Homak Professional line is pretty nice, I don't know about the regular line or something as old as that looks. Those slides don't look like ball bearing slides either. I'd say $200 is way steep for that.
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Feb 10, 2016 02:17
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Safety Dance posted:I've never heard of Homak before. Are they any good? I'd say two hundred is too steep for that... Half? Sure. My only exposure to homak was a smaller three drawer tool chest at the Anderson's, and it was garbage quality. Apples to oranges I'm sure, but I'd just get a HF mid/top chest for your current drawers and call it a day. Older craftsman boxes also pop up pretty frequently on craigslist, and I really like mine if you're looking for a good used budget box. E: Browsing Chicago craigslist, I see a bunch of Kennedy chests on there. Though a bit on the smaller side, Kennedy stuff is top notch, in fact they're still made in Van Wert, Ohio Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 13:26 on Feb 10, 2016 |
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Feb 10, 2016 13:05
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I moved across country, had all of my stuff in storage for about 5 months, and just recently moved into a house. It doesn't look like my floor jack made the trip. I had one of those 1.5 ton aluminum racing jacks. Should I get another of the same? I have a car which it has worked fine for, my wife is getting a SUV. I'm not sure that the old one had the height for one of those. Any suggestions for an all arounder?
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Feb 10, 2016 22:07
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HF low profile--gets pretty low for lowered cars and has pretty drat high lift. Under 100 nowadays with coupon.
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Feb 10, 2016 22:21
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You have to watch the weight ratings though. often "6000lb" jacks mean they can be used on a vehicle that weigh 6000lbs, so basically max out at 3000lbs. My "6000lb" jack can't get the front end of my pickup off the ground.
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Feb 10, 2016 22:47
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And poo poo, I sold my Blitz Rhino Ramps because it would have cost more to ship them than to buy new ones, but I guess the new version of the ramps seem pretty hit or miss? Is this true?
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Feb 10, 2016 22:47
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I have an older HF aluminum 1.5 ton racing jack, and the newer Costco Arcan steel/aluminum 2.5 ton jack. The HF jack makes some really worrying springing noises when trying to lift a vehicle, so I've never actually relied on it to lift a whole car by itself. It is great for lifting a single corner / axle on a vehicle that's already on stands, or lining up an engine mount, poo poo like that. The Costco Arcan jack, on the other hand, is easily the nicest jack I've ever used. It has no problems lifting my C10 or my CRV. It lifts the WJ fine, but it does run out of height before the wheels get off the ground unless I put at least a 2x4 on the jack pad.
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Feb 10, 2016 22:52
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Found a tool store local to me that carries grey pneumatic. Bought the 3/8 set  Asked the cashier if they had anymore 3/8 22mm sockets because they had a spot for them. His response was "that's not a regularly stocked item" Even if it has a spot on the shelf. Found the non impact at advance auto parts while getting a snow brush and car chemicals.
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Feb 10, 2016 23:24
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I've got a Larin 2 or 3 ton steel floor jack and that thing is a thorn in my loving side. For one, the set screw that's supposed to hold the handle in is long gone and I'm too drat lazy to go find one in the right pitch to throw in there. I guess that one's on me, but half the time when I turn the loving handle to either engage or disengage the pump, the gears don't mesh and nothing happens. That poo poo gets old in a hurry. Is that a common occurrence with floor jacks or is this just my poo poo luck kicking in again? Also, it weighs a ton. Good god. Are the HF aluminums worth a drat?
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Feb 10, 2016 23:34
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I've got a Larin 2 or 3 ton steel floor jack and that thing is a thorn in my loving side. For one, the set screw that's supposed to hold the handle in is long gone and I'm too drat lazy to go find one in the right pitch to throw in there. I guess that one's on me, but half the time when I turn the loving handle to either engage or disengage the pump, the gears don't mesh and nothing happens. That poo poo gets old in a hurry. Is that a common occurrence with floor jacks or is this just my poo poo luck kicking in again? My Costco Arcan I think has a square drive to a U-joint in the base of the handle, not a gear. What I did was take the second half off of the handle, and leave the bottom half in all the time. I cranked down on the bolt that holds it in, so it won't go anywhere. I've never had it not work on me. So I guess it depends on what the design of any particular jack is whether it will use that gear style or not.
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Feb 10, 2016 23:37
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One feature of the HF (and probably the other aluminum jacks) is that the handle makes an excellent breaker bar. So im always taking it out of the jack so I can slip it over a ratchet. I also had a goodyear steel jack that got used 3 times and put on craigslist because it was way too heavy. The aluminum jack does bend a little bit when in use due to the slant of the driveway, but thats user error more than anything.
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Feb 10, 2016 23:47
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blindjoe posted:One feature of the HF (and probably the other aluminum jacks) is that the handle makes an excellent breaker bar. So im always taking it out of the jack so I can slip it over a ratchet. I use mine as an extension on my breaker bar, but don't like doing so. The ID of the handle is so much bigger than the breaker bar that I'm worried it will slip and slide as I put force on it. It also sits crooked over the bar, putting all the pressure on two small points (on the bottom at the end of the handle and on the top at the end of the breaker bar).
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Feb 11, 2016 01:47
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FogHelmut posted:And poo poo, I sold my Blitz Rhino Ramps because it would have cost more to ship them than to buy new ones, but I guess the new version of the ramps seem pretty hit or miss? Is this true? Are you finding actual Blitz products? Blitz used to make gas cans, then got sued into bankruptcy when too many people decided it was a good idea to set themselves ablaze by pouring gas onto open flames. I think all the company's tooling got scrapped in the liquidation. Then the factory was sold to another company that started making new products under the Rhino Ramps label. I think the distinction is the old company was Blitz USA and the new company is RhinoGear.
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Feb 11, 2016 01:47
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Are you finding actual Blitz products? Yes this is what I'm seeing. I had the old Blitz ones that worked great for years. The new RhinoGear ones look flimsy despite the weight ratings. Reading the reviews, it seems they work most of the time, but if you're a bit off then it collapses horribly.
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Feb 11, 2016 01:52
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Does this mean that metal gas cans will become more common? Or just that all gas cans of all materials will quadruple in price?
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Feb 11, 2016 21:51
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What it most likely means is that blow-mold plastic gas cans will now all be cheaply made in China. It's honestly not that big of a loss when you figure that new ones are required to have spill guaranteed CARB spouts. From now on, I'm only buying OSHA compliant metal cans.
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Feb 12, 2016 05:34
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I collect the pre-ban vented cans at yard sales. Nothing empties as fast or as cleanly as the old jugs. I also really like the Eagle metal cans, they're galvanized so they don't rusty like you'd think they would, and make in good old West-by-God-Virginia. 
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Feb 12, 2016 06:23
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:spill guaranteed CARB spouts.  gently caress these things, There's nothing that pisses me off more than gas dribbling on my shoes.This thing is worth its weight in gold. You just drill out a tiny hole in the rear of the can to aerate for flow, pop a gasket/cap in the hole, and swap out the garbage spout for a plain funnel spout. It is glorious 
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Feb 12, 2016 13:19
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OSU_Matthew posted:This thing is worth its weight in gold. You just drill out a tiny hole in the rear of the can to aerate for flow, pop a gasket/cap in the hole, and swap out the garbage spout for a plain funnel spout. I think you meant this one (EZ-Pour Hi-Flo Gas Can Spout Kit). And yes, it's amazing and so worth it. I've added days, maybe weeks to my life already. Tractor Supply carries these in my area, though they seem to sell out fast.
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Feb 12, 2016 13:41
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If you don't have a http://www.nospill.com/ brand gas can with a spout extension hose on it you are missing out. All the CARB-compliant goodness big brother wants, all the lack of frustration you want. I haven't bought one yet (all my old* gas cans are still kicking) but I've used one that one of my coworkers keeps at work several times, they're worth whatever the price is. * and by "old" I mean "new carb-compliant cans that I gutted the nozzles of in a fit of rage after soaking myself in 2-stroke gas on the first use, so they now pour just like old cans" 
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Feb 12, 2016 16:49
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We just take the spout off and use a funnel. It works for farm equipment anyways.
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Feb 12, 2016 17:18
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kastein posted:If you don't have a http://www.nospill.com/ brand gas can with a spout extension hose on it you are missing out. I love these cans. We use the 2.5 gallon at work for 2 stroke fuel and small engines, and a couple of the Justrite AccuFlow 5 gallon cans for diesel. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FZB3N0 The Justrites look like old safety cans, but without that horrible funnel setup. The 5 gallon NoSpill cans are good, but they don't hold up very well when they're getting mashed around in dumptrucks 40 hours a week. The metal Justrite cans do pretty goddamn well. e: and the wonderful designers of the NoSpill cans made the stupid little required-by-law ratchet super easy to snap off, which I appreciate. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Feb 12, 2016 |
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Feb 12, 2016 17:39
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I bought this one http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=6KIY54X0M4NU&coliid=I14WXVQ4S3MQAY&psc=1 from the last time we talked about gas cans, and my non-vented one vented all over my station wagon. at least with the vented ones, when fumes came out the vent it just smelled a little. when the non-vented ones get used, the rubber wears out on the spout, and then it vents liquid all over the car. The eagle one seems it will just push up on the seal and burp. however, the funnel is a little hard to put on/off, will see how that holds up. edit: get the ones above me, thats way better without the funnel. drat it ive already spent my too much money for gas cans this year.
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Feb 12, 2016 17:42
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The KC Tools sale Wiha Micro kit showed up today. Holy gently caress. That is straight-up tool porn for me. I have worked with a lot of machinists and mechanics that had metal-cased nice sets of things before, but I have never bought a new set like that... with an outside box... and the metal box inside, perfect, no scratches or previous owner's initials carved in it... wow. That is a kick-rear end set that triggers things from my way-back memory. Awesome set, thanks again for the suggestion, sharkytm!
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Feb 12, 2016 22:17
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:The KC Tools sale Wiha Micro kit showed up today. Holy gently caress. That is straight-up tool porn for me. No need to thank me, the kickback from KC Tool is plenty. I'm completely kidding, their daily sales have caused my wallet much damage. I have like 4 micro-bit ratchet sets from 4 different MFR's.
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Feb 12, 2016 23:55
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