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First of the three Nomad Alguaciles done EDIT: Close up shows highlights (and mistakes) better. Also 7 fingers on right hand. 
richyp fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Feb 12, 2016 |
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Feb 12, 2016 15:36
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Nice paintjob, but wrong faction.
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Feb 12, 2016 17:02
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DJ Dizzy posted:Nice paintjob, but wrong faction. Thanks. I know they're not CA but they came with the game and it'll give me a set of minis for an imaginary opponent, as will the PanO ones. I do like me some USAriadna though, maybe my next purchase if I don't get some Batman miniatures.
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Feb 12, 2016 17:40
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   The windows aren't amazing but I did what I could.
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Feb 12, 2016 18:18
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First thing I noticed were the windows and I thought "those are friggin neat". I'm so used to seeing just a black for windows that yours look sweet as hell.
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Feb 12, 2016 19:03
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That crunching sound you hear is me smashing my Stormtalon to dust in a fit of jealous rage.
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Feb 12, 2016 19:15
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Some gloss varnish on the windows might look pretty cool. (And if it doesn't work out, you can just put some matte varnish on top.)
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Feb 12, 2016 19:42
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Hey everyone; I want to strip some models to remove my terrible first time paint jobs. A few Qs: 1. Will clean spirit remove paints? 2. Will clean spirit remove automotive primer? I used automotive spray primer to base a few of them when I ran out of black spray. 3. Will the clean spirit unglue anything I superglued down? 4. Is it okay on plastics?
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Feb 12, 2016 21:21
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spectralent posted:Hey everyone; I want to strip some models to remove my terrible first time paint jobs. A few Qs: I don't know about auto primer, but I used clean spirit in a stripping tutorial I did for the OP. It's fine on styrene plastic but I'm not sure what it does to CA/super glue. You can use white spirit also but you'll need to be careful about what container you use for stripping - if you're using plastic, do a test first. Metal or glass is best.
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Feb 12, 2016 22:06
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Finished that Knight and his Skitarii buddies:    I kinda love LEDs now   lots more pics here https://imgur.com/a/qdNP7
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Feb 13, 2016 00:59
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Does anyone have any advice on stripping superglue from resin? Would Simple Green work (and not gently caress up the resin)? e: Problem solved through careful application of a hobby knife. Thankfully the join was just an L shape and not something more complex. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Feb 13, 2016 |
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Feb 13, 2016 05:05
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I don't know about Simple Green, but Super Clean at least nomnoms superglue. I've also heard of people dissolving it with thin plastic glue. Mechanically scratching it off is going to be easier if you pop it in the freezer for a bit beforehand, too. Basically the glue absorbs moisture into its crystal structure as it sets. Freezing the glue makes the moisture expand and break that structure as it does.
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Feb 13, 2016 06:46
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Yeah, I ended up trying that, and maybe it helped. And then I glued everything back together, and it ended up in the exact same spot! It turns out the pieces are just subtly asymmetrical. 
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Feb 13, 2016 06:52
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DJ Dizzy posted:Grey wash? Secret Weapon does a few, Vallejo Smoke is a popular option, you could do a thin application of Nuln Oil, you could also get away with just using the secret weapon Cool Grey wash which I'm pretty sure was designed to exclusively do trolls and plasma guns. Basically what you're trying to do is put down a base coat of white, then deepen the shadows on that white by a few shades with a grey wash. Something like VMC Sky Grey mixed with Future would also probably do a similar job. You're then putting down a thin very bright blue glaze to tint all the skin and recesses that color. After that you can do a final highlight layer of white to bring out the highlights as well.
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Feb 13, 2016 07:08
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I wish I had a decent camera because I'm pretty happy with some of the red-box games minis I've recently finished.  I'm trying to finish up some barbarian wild men types but I'm having trouble getting the warpaint to look right. The blue stripes I put on the priestess type don't really pop like I would like them too. Then again, I was planning on covering her up a little with them so maybe its okay if the warpaint isn't too bright.  This is kind of the look I'm going for.  And this is an earlier attempt at a blue ink tattoo on another model. 
Chance II fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Feb 13, 2016 |
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Feb 13, 2016 07:19
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krushgroove posted:Finished that Knight and his Skitarii buddies: Yessss
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Feb 13, 2016 08:18
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So drat good.
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Feb 13, 2016 09:23
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spectralent posted:Hey everyone; I want to strip some models to remove my terrible first time paint jobs. A few Qs: I started using spirits to strip paint from models after reading this thread and it works generally good. I usually soak my stuff in it for a night and then run over them with a nail brush. It doesn't seem to damage plastic figures, some minis I had it soaking in there for over a month now, because I couldn't be assed to scrub them. It wont touch superglue, I had to bring in some acetone to solve that problem. (Whoever suggested it in this thread, love you!) However acetone will most likely melt your plastic, I only tried on white metal figures.
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Feb 13, 2016 12:45
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Wierre posted:I started using spirits to strip paint from models after reading this thread and it works generally good. I usually soak my stuff in it for a night and then run over them with a nail brush. It doesn't seem to damage plastic figures, some minis I had it soaking in there for over a month now, because I couldn't be assed to scrub them. That's good; I don't want to unglue everything, so 
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Feb 13, 2016 13:02
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I'm stripping a bunch of Eldar stuff and had to check that polypropylene (food containers) are okay to use with white spirit - they are! So I'm using a big red Cadbury's selection box filled with models and white spirit. Clean spirit should be safe as well.
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Feb 13, 2016 13:20
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I use Isopropyl alcohol. It doesn't do wonders - some paint just doesn't go away - but it sure is safe to leave miniatures floating in it.
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Feb 13, 2016 16:10
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Last 2 of the Nomad grunts finished so that's the 3 Alguaciles finished.  EDIT: Group shot, slightly better light 
richyp fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Feb 13, 2016 |
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Feb 13, 2016 16:28
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My Armada wrecks are nearly complete, i mostly need to make some blob shaped acrylic bases for them. 
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Feb 13, 2016 18:30
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Does anyone have any tips on how to smooth/fill in small imperfections in resin? I could probably just use a sandable putty and fill the divots and sand down as necessary, but there's probably a better way. I know some of them can be thinned with water, but I'm fuzzy on the details there. If it helps, I have Green Stuff, ProCreate, Apoxie Sculpt, and Brown Stuff already, but wouldn't mind getting something new provided it does the job.
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Feb 14, 2016 01:09
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If you don't want to mix it yourself Vallejo has a filler that comes in the same bottle as its paints. I forget what its called exactly, but its pretty much just for doing that. GW has pretty much the same thing they call liquid greenstuff.
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Feb 14, 2016 01:14
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This is the unspiration thread, right? I'm painting a hive tyrant and carnifex I have as a break from Salamanders. I'm trying to stick to the color scheme that I posted a while ago. This is the work in progress so far:    The model is pinned to the base but isn't glued in yet. Just need some thoughts is all. I'm not affraid of completely redoing it if need be.
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Feb 14, 2016 01:20
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nesbit37 posted:If you don't want to mix it yourself Vallejo has a filler that comes in the same bottle as its paints. I forget what its called exactly, but its pretty much just for doing that. GW has pretty much the same thing they call liquid greenstuff. I might check out the Vallejo stuff; I've never heard a single good thing about liquid greenstuff. Ideally, whatever I use would be sandable to make my life easier.
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Feb 14, 2016 01:25
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Any advice on painting black power armor? I have made a poor decision and am starting 30k with a Dark Angels army. Instead of the dark green I'm used to, it'll involve a ton of black armor which I only have had limited experience with. I checked the OP and watched the tutorial there, but it seemed a little too sloppy to me. The process was essentially basecoat black, slop dark grey onto raised surfaces, and highlight with a lighter grey. Is that it? Is there anything more advanced or simply neater? I am a decently skilled painter so feel free to toss whatever at me.
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Feb 14, 2016 01:28
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Safety Factor posted:Any advice on painting black power armor? I have made a poor decision and am starting 30k with a Dark Angels army. Instead of the dark green I'm used to, it'll involve a ton of black armor which I only have had limited experience with. I checked the OP and watched the tutorial there, but it seemed a little too sloppy to me. The process was essentially basecoat black, slop dark grey onto raised surfaces, and highlight with a lighter grey. Is that it? Is there anything more advanced or simply neater? I am a decently skilled painter so feel free to toss whatever at me. Not that I have advice for you, but wouldn't it make sense that the armor would get dusty or lose some polish like almost immediately? Black would be a very high contrast for whatever armor-usable alloy you'd use to make the stuff, and it shows dirt.
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Feb 14, 2016 01:30
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Safety Factor posted:Any advice on painting black power armor? I have made a poor decision and am starting 30k with a Dark Angels army. Instead of the dark green I'm used to, it'll involve a ton of black armor which I only have had limited experience with. I checked the OP and watched the tutorial there, but it seemed a little too sloppy to me. The process was essentially basecoat black, slop dark grey onto raised surfaces, and highlight with a lighter grey. Is that it? Is there anything more advanced or simply neater? I am a decently skilled painter so feel free to toss whatever at me. I'd personally paint black in dark grey, like Vallejo dark grey, shade with black and do three layered edge highlights, each 33%-50% or so brighter than the last.
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Feb 14, 2016 01:37
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That works, or just paint black and don't shade because how much more black can it be?
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Feb 14, 2016 01:41
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Black then cover it in gloss varnish and complain about people scratching the paint every time your mans get shot.
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Feb 14, 2016 01:50
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I suppose, I've just always disliked models that are predominantly black (Raven Guard, Black Templar) painted straight black as it always looked like primer to me. 
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Feb 14, 2016 01:50
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ijyt posted:I suppose, I've just always disliked models that are predominantly black (Raven Guard, Black Templar) painted straight black as it always looked like primer to me. I'd probably go with the black-grey to max desat gray approach as well; it helps add some depth to things.
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Feb 14, 2016 02:03
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To detail the basic scheme a little more, 30k Dark Angels use red symbols and silver shoulder trim. They also feature some white/black checker patters that I'm excited to try out. I will be adding the occasional green stripe or panel for grins.
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Feb 14, 2016 02:16
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To be fair I talk like I know what I'm doing but my paintwork is profoundly lovely, I mostly just pick up stuff from my dad I'm nowhere near good enough to replicate. The milk-like paint thing is legit though.
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Feb 14, 2016 02:25
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So after doing some research, Mr. Dissolved Putty sounds like what I want, probably. Are there any safety concerns with using a brush-on lacquer-based product indoors? I have a facemask with a particulate filter and I could get another set of filters if need be. e: I have these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009POHH94 Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Feb 14, 2016 |
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Feb 14, 2016 03:14
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Safety Factor posted:Any advice on painting black power armor? I have made a poor decision and am starting 30k with a Dark Angels army. Instead of the dark green I'm used to, it'll involve a ton of black armor which I only have had limited experience with. I checked the OP and watched the tutorial there, but it seemed a little too sloppy to me. The process was essentially basecoat black, slop dark grey onto raised surfaces, and highlight with a lighter grey. Is that it? Is there anything more advanced or simply neater? I am a decently skilled painter so feel free to toss whatever at me. Here's a good tutorial on it. http://flameonminiatures.blogspot.com/2014/01/black-color-painting-tutorial.html?m=1
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Feb 14, 2016 04:47
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Star Man posted:This is the unspiration thread, right?
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Feb 14, 2016 06:35
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OneTrueBru posted:My ghetto-workbench made from Ikea stuff (bonus insanity carpet): Nice, I love all the little drawers. Do you remember what it's called? I hope to start building my new workstation this summer, and that looks like just the thing! Edit: And now I found it, Kallax. Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 13:50 on Feb 14, 2016 |
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Feb 14, 2016 13:47
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