|
Yeah in the case of the Prius, for example, there's a solenoid that links the steering column to the steering rack. When the car turns on, the solenoid energizes and separates the two, so that the car's entirely drive-by-wire, but if the car ever loses power the solenoid shuts off and a spring pushes the shaft back out so they mesh again. Same with brakes, the hydraulic brakes are normally operated solely by the ABS unit, but again there's a short pushrod that will engage a traditional master cylinder if you push the pedal down far enough, which is only possible with power off. It's not much stopping power (no power assist and the brakes themselves are undersized, being designed only for the last 5-10 MPH of stopping while the regen braking handles the rest), but it is something.
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 03:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 01:02 |
|
|
MRC48B posted:There's still a linkage. It's the power assist that is electric, just like the hydraulic assist before it. My own question, why have manufacturers moved to electric steering assist? Cost? MPG? I know my own car still has a physical link between the steering wheel and steering rack, but it has an electric motor bolted to the column that takes the place of a power steering pump. I've already discovered that even at highway speeds, you really have to hulk on it to even change lanes if/when the motor takes a poo poo. I literally lifted myself out of my seat trying to get it into a parking space when the motor wasn't working. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Feb 14, 2016 |
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 05:42
|
|
|
You're confusing electric steering assist and drive by wire - there are electric assist systems that still have a mechanical link and just reduce steering effort, similar to a hydraulic system. My Honda has electric power steering but doesn't have any systems that would benefit from steer-by-wire, like parking assist or anything. Edit: and you totally changed your post around now, lol. Probably MPG and packaging. Power steering pumps have a significant parasitic load even with no steering input, while an electric unit would be effectively zero load.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 05:55
|
|
|
Nierbo posted:none. i'm australian and i just moved to canada and i want a big ugly car that can be a bit of a sleeper and i identified the intrepid as having potential and a car that no one would expect is fast Or running consistently. Edit: Nierbo, what you're looking for is an early 90s Ford Thunderbird with the 3.8L. It came in NA and supercharged (Supercoupe trim level) versions, but the parts are interchangeable. On the other hand, you can find a same-vintage Taurus...the 3.8 was the optional engine and once again, if you've got a donor Supercoupe in a junkyard or whatever you can make the Taurus interesting. Watch out for the motor mounts though, they were already too weak for that 3.8. Godholio fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Feb 14, 2016 |
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 06:22
|
|
|
The Cubelodyte posted:200,973, and no. Hadn't really considered it, because it doesn't pull to any particular side when I brake. I can't imagine them both failing in the same manner at the same time... but then again my buddy did work on both brakes, so maybe they got equally hosed up then somehow? I'm just grasping at other things that could be wrong with your brake system since you've already done a lot. Scraping sound when stopping would be either pads that are low end, pads are low and the wear bar is making noise, or somethign else is making contact with the rotor itself. If I were troubleshooting brake issues and I had a 10 year old 200k mile car.. I"d start by replacing the actual calipers / Pistons in the rear, you may have an issue with sealing or things are just getting stuck.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 06:28
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:Yeah in the case of the Prius, for example, there's a solenoid that links the steering column to the steering rack. When the car turns on, the solenoid energizes and separates the two, so that the car's entirely drive-by-wire, but if the car ever loses power the solenoid shuts off and a spring pushes the shaft back out so they mesh again. Oh, so it isn't that common? Is drive-by-wire really only a Prius thing? In any case, it's good to know that there is a backup mechanical linkage.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 06:42
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Power steering pumps have a significant parasitic load even with no steering input, while an electric unit would be effectively zero load. But I would think an alternator presents a not-insignificant load as well, especially when you suddenly throw 50+ amps of load at it? (i.e. cranking the wheel while, say, parallel parking) Or does the battery act as enough of a buffer that you're not tossing a huge load at the alternator (and thus, load on the engine) at once?
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 06:44
|
|
|
Electric lets you also have sport and lazy highway mode.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 06:51
|
|
|
silence_kit posted:Oh, so it isn't that common? Is drive-by-wire really only a Prius thing? In any case, it's good to know that there is a backup mechanical linkage. Throttle by wire is on 100% of modern cars AFAIK. Steer by wire is on prius and most lexus models, don't know about other brands. Brake by wire is on prius, lexus and land cruiser models. Also the mechanical back-up on the master cylinder is a one time use spacer/diaphragm thingy that breaks internally leading to a full replacement (costing thousands) if you stab it hard enough to stop from speed if the system fails electrically 
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 06:53
|
|
|
well it is an emergency backup, not a primary system
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 07:03
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Throttle by wire is on 100% of modern cars AFAIK. It was mandated sometime around 2008, by having the computer drive the throttle it's position can be smoothed out which increases fuel economy and reduces emissions that are both effected by abrupt throttle changes.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 07:32
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:well it is an emergency backup, not a primary system Yeah. Also it basically never fails or fucks out unless some pit monkey gets in there and starts dicking about so it doesn't really matter. Toyota (mostly/usually/more than most) build even the most ludicrous poo poo to last if it's related to a core system like safety or engine or whatever. They built a v8 with two distributors in 1989 which sounds like a retarded german idea, with all the ruggedness that implies. Yet that system doesn't really gently caress out more than a normal car, it's not ~an issue~ like it would be on a BMW or something. They built a mass produced, taxi-level-rapeable hybrid electric vehicle that only occasionally has things break in the complicated bits and can do many hundreds of thousands of horrible trouble-free commute driving before being scrapped. They don't do much Dumb poo poo compared to other brands (mechanic suffering coefficient). Also unintended acceleration and oil sludge
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 07:50
|
|
|
Yeah uh, about that... coworker's 2006 Prius just needed the brake booster replaced. And it's only a little above average mileage for its age. $2500 later....  The original one still worked, but the motor on it would run nearly constantly.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 08:47
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:My own question, why have manufacturers moved to electric steering assist? Cost? MPG? All of the reasons mentioned above, plus the reason that electric racks can still offer power assist when the engine is not running in hybrid vehicles. (Yes you could have an electrically driven hydraulic pump but an electric rack would surely be more simple, plus give the other benefits listed above). And now that it has been designed, engineered, tested, etc, and the benefits have been realised, the manufacturers might as well just stick electric racks in some of their other cars as well. some texas redneck posted:Yeah uh, about that... coworker's 2006 Prius just needed the brake booster replaced. And it's only a little above average mileage for its age. Nitrogen pressure in the hydroboost accumulator had most likely dropped, significantly lowering its capacity to expel pressurised fluid. This causes the hydroboost motor to run more often than usual. A machine shop could open this accumulator, replace the internal seals, add a schrader valve, and re-gas it for less than $2500 (holy poo poo). Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 09:19 on Feb 14, 2016 |
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 09:12
|
|
|
Christobevii3 posted:Electric lets you also have sport and lazy highway mode. Mine even attempts to compensate for cross winds and graded highways which is sort of neat and unsettling at the same time
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 18:07
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:But I would think an alternator presents a not-insignificant load as well, especially when you suddenly throw 50+ amps of load at it? (i.e. cranking the wheel while, say, parallel parking) Or does the battery act as enough of a buffer that you're not tossing a huge load at the alternator (and thus, load on the engine) at once? I literally never parallel park in the traditional sense, but I can't recall the idle lowering much (if at all) on the CRV when cranking the wheel at a stop. Even the WJ and C10 will both audibly drop the idle a bit when the power steering is working hard. I'd also wager that a few seconds of high load at idle is offset by the savings on the parasitic loads for miles and miles of low/no-assist high speed driving.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 18:23
|
|
|
8ender posted:Mine even attempts to compensate for cross winds and graded highways which is sort of neat and unsettling at the same time That's neat! It also allows cars to steer themselves, so you get things like straightening out the car if you're drifting over the lines and (slowly) introducing autonomous driving.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 18:25
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:But I would think an alternator presents a not-insignificant load as well, especially when you suddenly throw 50+ amps of load at it? (i.e. cranking the wheel while, say, parallel parking) Or does the battery act as enough of a buffer that you're not tossing a huge load at the alternator (and thus, load on the engine) at once? A 50A load translates to around 0.8hp, let's say 1hp worst case. The battery is going to be providing most of that current, not the alternator, but even if it didn't (say discharged battery) it's still not that huge of a load on an engine. At worst you might get a slight dip in rpm as the idle control system compensates for the extra load.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 22:25
|
|
|
Today I drove over a nail. I had a guy come and patch it up. When I started driving on it, the tire was bumping on something every revolution for the first few miles. Bump-bump-bump-bump-bump. Then suddenly a loud "pop" and everything's back to normal. What's up?
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 22:33
|
|
|
Probably a string plug. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=77
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2016 23:13
|
|
|
Car buying question. Let me know if this should be in a different thread. I'm looking to buy a 2011 model year vehicle. The guy I've been talking to says it was his father's car and that his father signed the title before his death several years ago. Seller's mother is alive and well and has just now been convinced to sell. We met at the house, you can see the car in the driveway in Google maps pictures from a few years back. This raises some red flags about not buying a car with the title already signed, but I'm not sure if I am going overboard on worrying. Checked Carfax already and it suggested no duplicate title, liens, etc. I'm going to call the DMV next but I'm not altogether sure what to ask.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2016 15:48
|
|
|
Everything is going to vary from state to state, for starters.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2016 16:35
|
|
|
antiga posted:Car buying question. Let me know if this should be in a different thread. I don't like the situation. If they have a signed title, then they can go to the DMV and easily transfer into mom's name and produce a fresh title. The burden is on the seller for clean paperwork, not you calling the DMV. And I don't understand the bit about Google maps/streetview: did you actually see the vehicle? Did he have keys? Did you meet mom? And did you google dad to confirm he's dead? You're right, the encounter raises more questions than answers. If the seller can't clear it up, move on to other vehicles. Handing over cash to a stranger in opaque circumstances is the cornerstone of a scam.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2016 16:45
|
|
|
More info: seller is in NJ, we met at the house and drove the vehicle. Didn't meet the mother but it was -2F outside at the time so the thought of having her come outside didn't cross my mind. Google maps was my way of verifying that the person who owns the car lives here and we weren't meeting someone who stole the car. Haven't googled the father but that's certainly doable. My plan was to have the seller come to the DMV and do the transfer there to ensure DMV don't protest. Seller has been very helpful and no-pressure, if I have to tell them to bring Mom to the DMV with us that's not a big deal. Would they reissue a new title to the mother on the spot then we sign it over to me and money changes hands?
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2016 17:03
|
|
|
antiga posted:I'm looking to buy a 2011 model year vehicle. The guy I've been talking to says it was his father's car and that his father signed the title before his death several years ago. Seller's mother is alive and well and has just now been convinced to sell. We met at the house, you can see the car in the driveway in Google maps pictures from a few years back. Do not buy property from anyone other than the title holder. That car needs to be correctly transferred to the mother before you should give that person anything. For all you know that car is held up in probate and not the mothers to sell.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2016 17:54
|
|
|
No title no sale. Should be in the OP.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2016 19:51
|
|
|
antiga posted:More info: seller is in NJ, we met at the house and drove the vehicle. Didn't meet the mother but it was -2F outside at the time so the thought of having her come outside didn't cross my mind. Google maps was my way of verifying that the person who owns the car lives here and we weren't meeting someone who stole the car. Haven't googled the father but that's certainly doable. Just tell him to get a clean title in the name of a person you can meet and call you when it's done. Don't put time and energy into it until he has.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2016 20:14
|
|
|
Thanks for the input, I wish this was less of a pain but better to be safe.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2016 20:38
|
|
|
Specs 2004 Honda Pilot 3.5L V6 Recent work Takata airbag recall Sat. (This is the first long drive/brutal I took it in since the recall) Backstory Drove for two hours in some harsh conditions. Fog/snow/sleet/ice. The highway was full of accidents and many people didn't take the sheet of ice off their roofs so I took the relatively empty but slushy back roads. IssueThe last 100 feet or so was brutal, so I engaged my VTM-4 lock. I did not stop completely before hitting the button, but was going under 20. I smelled smoke/bbq. I disengaged the lock, then turned off the car and opened the hood. A small amount of smoke was coming out of the hood. Not from the engine, but from under the intakes where people pour fluids in. The smoke wasn't heavy but made my clothes smell like I was just at a charcoal grill or had a grease fire. I looked under the car and saw nothing, but it was under the wiper fluid intake. Should I be worried? The smoke seems to have stopped and I didn't start a car fire, but I'm pensive about engaging the VTM-4 lock again Edit: I tried to pull out of the driveway and saw more smoke, pulled back in, and the engine turned off. I opened the engine again and the timing belt looked like someone took a scissor to it. edit2: Or serpentine belt. Not sure. Hence posting on the stupid question thread. Though the carfax did show the timing belt changed at its proper time. edit3: If it matters, it was -11F a couple days ago but in the 54F now. diadem fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Feb 16, 2016 |
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2016 15:27
|
|
|
I got hit by a deer and it ripped my driver side mirror off. I've got a 2008 Honda Accord LX-P. The color is "polished metal metallic." Where's the best place to buy a replacement mirror and mirror cap? I don't necessarily care if the parts are OEM or not.
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2016 17:39
|
|
|
Since I can't attach pictures in an edit, here's a picture of the belt. I didn't get a reply so I"m going to go with the "yes, I should be worried" camp and just get 'er towed to my mechanic.
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2016 21:51
|
|
|
diadem posted:Since I can't attach pictures in an edit, here's a picture of the belt. Looks like your serpentine belt broke. It's not a big deal, assuming that it just snapped due to age/wear and wasn't caused by a seized accessory or pulley. It was probably a coincidence that it happened when you engaged the diff lock. You can't drive it without the belt, though, so unless you're equipped to replace it yourself having it towed to your mechanic is the right move.
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2016 22:23
|
|
|
That sure looks like failure due to oil-soaking, assuming that thing laying on top of the steering reservoir is part of the belt. Replace the belt, but check for fluid leaks; the steering sure looks juicy in that pic.
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2016 23:18
|
|
|
I just had a new axle and wheel bearing put in my 2004 Golf TDI and now it's a bit out of alignment and pulls slightly to the right. I'm bringing it back to the shop to have them align it in a few days, but should I expect them to do it without charging me? I would think that doing an alignment after having the suspension apart would be SOP, but I don't really know how mechanics/shops operate and I don't want to go in expecting "free" work and ending up having to pay more on top of what I already paid to have the initial work done. I should also add that I don't particularly care if they do charge me because it's outside the normal scope of work for that job, but if it turns out they should've done it and didn't in order to save time then 
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2016 23:46
|
|
|
Normally you don't need to do an alignment when you replace a half shaft (which I'm guessing is what they replaced). You do have to disassemble the suspension a bit to replace the half shaft (usually you separate a ball joint, occasionally you disconnect the tie rod), but since nothing related to suspension is being replaced, normally they just slap everything back together. If they replaced actual suspension parts, then yeah, an alignment should have been done. A wheel bearing is generally just R&R (remove and replace), on most FWD cars very little comes apart to get at the wheel bearing. tl;dr an alignment usually isn't needed for the work you had done
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2016 00:22
|
|
|
My winter beater/summer rainy day car is a 2005 Mazda3 sport GT hatch that has 175,000km on it. It's got the awful loving dreaded Mazda rust on the rear fenders, and I believe also now inside the upper wheel wells where the struts mount to the unibody. I smoked a wicked huge pothole yesterday morning on my very snowy morning commute and from what I can see under the wheelwell the holes where the bolts for the strut mount would go are just... Gaping huge holes now, rusted all the way through. The strut mounts are now just bouncing around inside. I'm going to take it to my buddy's shop tomorrow to put it up on the hoist and have a proper look, but do people in such a situation weld a steel panel over the hole and re-mount the strut, or is this the end of the Mazda?
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2016 01:57
|
|
|
I have to buy 8 new tires in the spring and do not want to spend $1500. Is there somewhere that is cheaper than tire rack for the same tires? Coupons? Anything? Tires if it matters: Michelin Pilot Super Sport 265/35R18 Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R 245/45R17
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2016 03:27
|
|
|
um excuse me posted:I have to buy 8 new tires in the spring and do not want to spend $1500. Is there somewhere that is cheaper than tire rack for the same tires? Coupons? Anything? Watch for sales on Tirerack of equivalent tires in all the various brands. I assume you aren't "set" on Bridgestone Potenza for your 245/45R17? While you are in fact buying the cheapest one they have, sometimes you can get a deal just browsing the size: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireS...er=17&zip-code= I switched from Bridgestone Potenza RE-11's to Hankook Ventus R-S3's for just this reason. Edit: and check Costco.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2016 05:33
|
|
|
Make: Ford Model: Focus Year: 2000 Edition: SE So I have been driving my car and it has been presenting some problems. While driving it it will stutter at times. When I was waiting at a stop light this morning the car turned off. The radio and electricity was still working fine, but the car shut off. I put the car back into drive and started it up again and it was fine. However, it died again. I then repeated and it was fine until I got to work. It did this the day before to. I talked to the guy at Autozone and he said he had a similar problem with his car and it was the fuel regulator inside the fuel filter. So I took my car into the repair shop so they could look into it. They said they ran the machine through it, cleaned it, and drove it around and found nothing wrong with it. I told them that the issues only occurs sometime when the car is driven around for around fifteen minutes. They stated that they'll be driving it again in the morning to test it out. Anyway, does anyone on here know what the problem with my car could be?
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2016 06:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 01:02 |
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Watch for sales on Tirerack of equivalent tires in all the various brands. I assume you aren't "set" on Bridgestone Potenza for your 245/45R17? While you are in fact buying the cheapest one they have, sometimes you can get a deal just browsing the size: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireS...er=17&zip-code= The RE-71Rs are for autoX, I have been hearing by various people that it is the fastest UTQG 200 tire around. I'm actually not firm on the Michelins. I just hear it is a good all around summer tire. I didn't even think of Costco. Edit: Holey Moley. Tire Rack wants $899 for the Super Sports and Costco is asking $789. No RE-71Rs at Costco, though. 
um excuse me fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Feb 18, 2016 |
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2016 06:45
|
|