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TTerrible posted:I'm on the verge of binning an army because of my inability to paint white. I posted in here before about it but things have got ridiculous now. Has anyone had any success whatsoever in using Vallejo Game Air - Dead White on a miniature? I've tried every permutation of this bottle of bullshit with every additive and technique and it turns to poo poo every time. Thinned down I've had no problems painting it.
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Feb 15, 2016 23:38
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Avenging Dentist posted:Try P3 Morrow White or VMC Ivory? (Or even an artist's paint, like Golden.) I have a list of paints people really like, and there are several different whites on that list that you could pick from, depending on your needs: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3705692&perpage=40&pagenumber=109#post451418381 Floppychop posted:I've have good luck with Vallejo's Game Color Off White. Thanks, I'll give Ivory and Off White a go. I'm trying to get a clean white marine shoulder pad, it's the one part of the army I'm not airbrushing and it is taking 99% of the time   EDIT: Glass beads in all pots, tempted to buy one of those little orange paint shaker deals.
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Feb 15, 2016 23:39
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If the paint is pooling on the model and leaving bathtub rings, it's because you have too much on your brush. VGA White may also be garbage, I don't know, but that sounds like your first problem.
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Feb 15, 2016 23:41
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Avenging Dentist posted:Is Tamiya the go-to source for clear acrylics? I'm not looking to do candy paint or anything, but I do have a couple kits with clear resin skulls that I want to do something cool with. I was thinking about going for glowing red/orange eyes. I'm debating whether I should paint them with clear paints or use opaque paint instead. Yes, or Minitaire Ghost Tints. You can only do so much with normal opaque paints!
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Feb 15, 2016 23:55
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It's not that, it's very weird. It just.. migrates to the edge of each brush stroke. Like there is a surface tension issue. It's literally the only paint I have this issue with in the VGA line.
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Feb 15, 2016 23:56
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The reaper clear brights are real good.
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Feb 15, 2016 23:56
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Is there a trick to taking photos of minis with a phone that don't look like zoomed-in garbage? I don't even mean final presentation photos, just WIPs and stuff. I posted those pics of my vampire bust yesterday and they look terrible. I realize that photos are by their nature unforgiving but I feel like mine are less representative of what the model looks like, even under the harsh painting light, than most. I take my pics with an iPhone 6, and I don't zoom in but I do take the pic as close as I can get while still being in focus. Should I be taking pics from farther out and then cropping?
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Feb 16, 2016 01:43
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JoshTheStampede posted:Is there a trick to taking photos of minis with a phone that don't look like zoomed-in garbage? I don't even mean final presentation photos, just WIPs and stuff. I posted those pics of my vampire bust yesterday and they look terrible. I don't know if my photos are good quality of not by comparison of others, but all mine are taken with an iPhone 5S at close range with no zoom. I get close enough so that the camera can still focus on the foreground detail and then snap the picture. I then load the full image into an image editor (I just use pixlr.com since it's free and easy), crop to an appropriate size/shape, do an auto-balance for color/brightness, do a sharpen, adjust the brightness by +2-5 and the contrast by +5-10 to try and negate the bleaching quality of fluorescent bulbs, resize it down to a smaller postable size, and do a final sharpen to bring out the edges and detail. The whole process is pretty quick and dirty, but I think the results are good enough.
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Feb 16, 2016 01:52
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Overall, I'm quite pleased with how this objective marker turned out for Bolt Action   
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Feb 16, 2016 01:56
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JoshTheStampede posted:Is there a trick to taking photos of minis with a phone that don't look like zoomed-in garbage? I don't even mean final presentation photos, just WIPs and stuff. I posted those pics of my vampire bust yesterday and they look terrible. Get in close, tap on the actual subject of the photo so it'll focus on that. Make sure your lighting is good, that's the real kicker. Other than that that's all I've got. You just want more even lighting probably; whenever I photograph my minis I have a lamp above them and one I'm holding with the camera to try and get a decent spread of light without blowing anything out.
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Feb 16, 2016 02:07
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I am facing a challenge. I recently ordered and built a Revell boat model in 1/48 scale to use as part of the terrain for my infinity table. So far so good, but now that I have started to paint it with my Citadel acryl paints, the paint somehow just won't stick to the plastic. It pools and only after several layers its getting better. I already tried to wash the plastic parts with dishwasher soap to remove anything oily left on the surface but this does not help at all. Still the first and parts of the second coat pool and are easily wiped away. Never happened to me with any gw/mantic/whatever tin, plastic or resin models.
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Feb 16, 2016 14:30
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JoshTheStampede posted:Is there a trick to taking photos of minis with a phone that don't look like zoomed-in garbage? I don't even mean final presentation photos, just WIPs and stuff. I posted those pics of my vampire bust yesterday and they look terrible. I use my cell phone for pictures, and I can't even come close to getting decent WIP shots. It's light box or bust, and even then it's dicey like the last photos I posted here. My painting area is exceptionally poorly lit when it's not sunny oitside though. I do get generally better photos when I'm a little further back like 6 to 8 inches, but mostly I just take a poo poo ton of them and sort through them to find the best ones. Even with ideal circumstances I still run up against the limits of my phone camera. Gareth Gobulcoque fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Feb 16, 2016 |
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Feb 16, 2016 14:39
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Commissar Canuck posted:Overall, I'm quite pleased with how this objective marker turned out for Bolt Action  Doctors Inc posted:I am facing a challenge. I recently ordered and built a Revell boat model in 1/48 scale to use as part of the terrain for my infinity table. So far so good, but now that I have started to paint it with my Citadel acryl paints, the paint somehow just won't stick to the plastic. It pools and only after several layers its getting better. You sprayed/brushed primer on to the plastic before painting first right? richyp fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Feb 16, 2016 |
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Feb 16, 2016 15:19
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No special primer, just straight chaos black slightly watered down from the pot. Always worked with small minis. Maybe its the large smooth surfaces that cause the problem.
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Feb 16, 2016 15:35
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Doctors Inc posted:No special primer, just straight chaos black slightly watered down from the pot. Always worked with small minis. The "watered down" aspect may be your issue if the model is a type of resin. Try it straight from the pot in thin layers, it should adhere better that way.
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Feb 16, 2016 15:47
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Doctors Inc posted:No special primer, just straight chaos black slightly watered down from the pot. Always worked with small minis. Yup, this is the reason. Small models have enough irregular surfaces that you can often get away with using paint as primer. Larger models you really need a spray coat first or as you found out acrylic paint has a hard time grabbing the smooth plastic.
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Feb 16, 2016 16:57
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Speaking of Spray Primers, just tried a can of cheap automotive plastic grey primer in crappy weather and it's dried really smooth. It's http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/car-spray-paints/halfords-plastic-primer-grey-spray-300ml if any UK goon wants to get some. I've used their white primer in the past too and it seemed to do a better job than the old GW Skull White. Just make sure you get the "primer" and not "filler primer" as the former is acrylic and the latter will clog detail. Also I've not tried them but they do provide acrylic primers in many other colours and offer some kind of in store colour matching (for spraying), not sure on accuracy of matching or the quality but it might be a fun test to see how close they can get to a GW/VMC colour to speed up base coating for those without an airbrush.
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Feb 16, 2016 18:54
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TTerrible posted:I'm on the verge of binning an army because of my inability to paint white. I posted in here before about it but things have got ridiculous now. Has anyone had any success whatsoever in using Vallejo Game Air - Dead White on a miniature? I've tried every permutation of this bottle of bullshit with every additive and technique and it turns to poo poo every time. White is hard to paint. You simply won't get reasonable whites or blacks without subjecting yourself to a lot of frustration and working through it. Part of it is just good brush work and a bit of zen when it comes to paint consistency and having the right paint load on the brush. Part of it is the colors though, which is easier to sort out. White is 99% about shading. You can't highlight white, it is kinda obvious when you think about that. First question is what color your white is going to be. This is because you need a color to shade with. Generally I base coat with an off white of the shade color I am using. I then wash with a pretty pure form of the shade color. Then I apply the basecoat color in a very thinned down way to build up towards the highlights, AND to fix the blotches. I then mix in more and more white, while keeping the paint very thin, with the brush strokes towards the highlights to keep the blotches where more paint is going to go down later. lovely reality is it takes a lot of practice and a lot of coats to paint a half decent white.
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Feb 16, 2016 19:27
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richyp posted:Awesome, please tell me he's called Flashheart? You're goddamn right he is 
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Feb 16, 2016 19:46
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The other thing to remember is you don't have to actually paint white things white at all. Especially if its something like a white cloak on a model with darker colors elsewhere, a light grey or cream will read as white cloth to the eye. You can use pure white just for the highest highlights, or sometimes not even at all.
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Feb 16, 2016 19:47
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Cyclomatic posted:White is hard to paint. You simply won't get reasonable whites or blacks without subjecting yourself to a lot of frustration and working through it. Part of it is just good brush work and a bit of zen when it comes to paint consistency and having the right paint load on the brush. Part of it is the colors though, which is easier to sort out. My plan was to lay down some CGA Stonewall or <grey I've forgotten>, layer white over the top of that and then drop a very thin grey wash around the edge of the pad and in panel lines. I've never got past the grey stage. I don't think I've got the patience to do what you describe across an entire Space Marine army, so I'm hoping that Ivory or Off white with a zenithal airbrush highlight will give me a lazy fix. richyp posted:Speaking of Spray Primers, just tried a can of cheap automotive plastic grey primer in crappy weather and it's dried really smooth. I use Halfords "Matt black" (not primer) as a primer and it is beautiful. Incredibly smooth, and when stripping minis with biostrip it is generally untouched. I've no idea how it keys that well, but there we go.
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Feb 17, 2016 01:23
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Yeah their Matt Black not-primer primer is amazing, smoother than their Grey which is already smooth. I was blown away by it when I used it to prime my Minotaurs.
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Feb 17, 2016 01:39
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Hey guys, I need some help with basing. I am working on a mini that is holding a severed head. It's quite a bloody thing to be holding, so the base would obviously reflect this. The thing is that I intend to base it on Secret Weapon Miniature's wetlands base, complete with their water effects. Does anyone know how to achieve a spreading blood stain in the water, as if the blood is starting to disperse into the water? I obviously don't want full bloody water, as that would look silly, but I also feel like clean water wouldn't fit either.
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Feb 17, 2016 02:47
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Water effects are pretty thick, you may be able to pour the water, then drop the blood in or maybe use a syringe? And it'll spread some but then set that way. Test it out in a cup or a spare base.
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Feb 17, 2016 02:59
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The halfords primer has long been the recommended spray primer if you live in the UK. Even old GW stuff recommends it.
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Feb 17, 2016 03:11
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I'm super out of practice with painting: it's been maybe 6-7 years since I tried to do any minis. Recently I've been trying to put together a Tyranid army, but I'm still really shaky and generally crap. Any thoughts on how to improve these?*   *THIN YOUR PAINTS is the obvious one. I only remembered to do it when I was pretty much done with this lot, but it's definitely something I'm going to start doing again ASAP. I'm using Vallejo which are thankfully a lot thinner than GW, but some details are definitely obscured.
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Feb 17, 2016 05:02
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SurreptitiousMuffin posted:I'm super out of practice with painting: it's been maybe 6-7 years since I tried to do any minis. Recently I've been trying to put together a Tyranid army, but I'm still really shaky and generally crap. Any thoughts on how to improve these?* I had tyranids in a very similar green/bone scheme (can't find any pictures at the moment). I'd do what I did and pick out the joints and vents in red. EDIT: found it; 
Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Feb 17, 2016 |
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Feb 17, 2016 05:28
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So a few years ago (long before I started this army) a friend of mine gave me the remains of a miscast Squiggoth in a Ziploc bag. It had sat around in my Warhams box for years until a couple weeks ago when I decided to see what I could do with it. With a lot of green stuff, a few digs through my bitz box, and an awful lot of clipping and cutting, I'd built myself a proper howdah for the big beast! There's still some pretty bad problems with the model - a slipped mold happened somewhere obviously - I still think I did a decent job salvaging the model! Also my old second lamp I was using for photography started shooting sparks so I had to toss it; until I get a suitable replacement my lighting might be a little off. This first image shows his colors most accurately:      
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Feb 17, 2016 06:24
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SRM posted:So a few years ago (long before I started this army) a friend of mine gave me the remains of a miscast Squiggoth in a Ziploc bag. It had sat around in my Warhams box for years until a couple weeks ago when I decided to see what I could do with it. With a lot of green stuff, a few digs through my bitz box, and an awful lot of clipping and cutting, I'd built myself a proper howdah for the big beast! There's still some pretty bad problems with the model - a slipped mold happened somewhere obviously - I still think I did a decent job salvaging the model! Also my old second lamp I was using for photography started shooting sparks so I had to toss it; until I get a suitable replacement my lighting might be a little off. This first image shows his colors most accurately: Whats actually miscast here? looks real tight
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Feb 17, 2016 08:00
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Yeah you salvaged that poo poo up good.
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Feb 17, 2016 08:34
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w00tmonger posted:Whats actually miscast here? looks real tight I'm guessing some of the claws aren't meant to be quite as hosed but if he hadn't said it was miscast I'd never have known from the photos.
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Feb 17, 2016 11:11
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SurreptitiousMuffin posted:I'm super out of practice with painting: it's been maybe 6-7 years since I tried to do any minis. Recently I've been trying to put together a Tyranid army, but I'm still really shaky and generally crap. Any thoughts on how to improve these?* You did pretty well for being so out of practise! While you should probably thin them it's not horribly noticeable 
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Feb 17, 2016 12:22
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Still waiting on an order of some VMC blue's so I can paint the armour. On the plus side it means I probably spent more time painting pretend make up on her face than I usually do an a model and I'm really pleased with how it and the rest of the face turned out.  First time I've painted a face without using a wash, quite pleased with the outcome especially considering the flesh coloured paint is also on the same order as the blues. Good old Pale Sand and German Orange save the day again. Not sure if the red (orange) hair lacks enough contrast as it's the same colours I used for the skin only in different ratios. Should I keep it or paint it brown? I also daren't attempt the pupils until I get a new brush, my detail brush has more stray hair's than not.
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Feb 17, 2016 15:17
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TTerrible posted:It's not that, it's very weird. It just.. migrates to the edge of each brush stroke. Like there is a surface tension issue. It's literally the only paint I have this issue with in the VGA line. Maybe it is the primer/basecoat you're painting on? I had an issue with Army Painter primers where half the paint I wanted to use wouldn't adhere to the surface of the model - it would just pool and run off. I had the same issue with some models where I used Testors silver (chrome?) spray, but, in this case, it only affected some of the models, even though they were all sprayed in the same batch. It was really weird. These VGC paints and not Air though, so it may not be the same issue.
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Feb 17, 2016 16:30
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berzerkmonkey posted:Maybe it is the primer/basecoat you're painting on? I had an issue with Army Painter primers where half the paint I wanted to use wouldn't adhere to the surface of the model - it would just pool and run off. I had the same issue with some models where I used Testors silver (chrome?) spray, but, in this case, it only affected some of the models, even though they were all sprayed in the same batch. It was really weird. Hmm that's a good point. I've been using the almost universally loved Halfords matt black. I did pickup some of that Bbadger Stynylrez that is supposed to be the new hotness. I'll prime some sprue and check it. Picking up the replacement white colours at my FLGS tonight too.
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Feb 17, 2016 16:50
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$130 worth of painting supplies showed up at my house yesterday addressed to me. Unfortunately the invoice was to someone else. Alas, the package continues on its journey later today.
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Feb 17, 2016 17:06
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w00tmonger posted:Whats actually miscast here? looks real tight The claws are a bit messed up, as are the horns. There's a lot of little bubbles and holes in the armor plates and teeth, the mouth is kind of a jumble of resin, and the leg with the armor plate over the knee is really messed up but the pictures kinda hide it. It wasn't unsalvageable but it took a bit of work. Glad you dig it though!
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Feb 17, 2016 17:25
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SurreptitiousMuffin posted:I'm super out of practice with painting: it's been maybe 6-7 years since I tried to do any minis. Recently I've been trying to put together a Tyranid army, but I'm still really shaky and generally crap. Any thoughts on how to improve these?* The cure for the shakes is touching yourself. Seriously, make sure your hands are touching, pinky to pinky contact is enough, and then put your foot on your chair and rest your wrists on your knee instead of using something else that isn't part of you. I'm guessing giving your brain so many data points to cross reference just makes the motor control easier to plot or something, but it seems to work.
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Feb 17, 2016 17:45
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More bros finished:  
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Feb 17, 2016 21:35
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Anyone know where I could get 3x1x1mm magnets in the UK? EMagnets and Spider Magnets don't have them, but I did find a seller in germany asking for £12.99 for 50.
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Feb 18, 2016 02:00
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