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Did they generate it with the proper postprocessor for their machine?
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Jan 2, 2016 01:19
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I didn't look too far into the actual camming process on fusion 360, but I assume so (I choose the mach 3 postprocessor in cambam, and the generic gcode I've used on easel works great as well). I'm sure with some more practice, the orientation and where it started in x/y would be more clear (his stuff was never anywhere near the origin, and trying to rotate 90 degrees in mach 3 to compensate made some weird toolpaths), but I'm more accustomed to cambams interface at this point. He also burnt out one of the axis controllers when he was trying to cnc in the middle of the night unsupervised so I'm probably mixing our frustration with fusion 360's cam with my anger over this dork crashing the thing multiple times while noone was around after I asked him to review his camming (we haven't installed our limit switches yet, and I guess the old cnc he had used at a previous makerspace was designed to be much more crash resilient)
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Jan 2, 2016 17:14
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I seem to remember when I tested my CNC, that I had to use a Generic Fanuc Post processor for the G Code for Mach 3 turning. I can't remember if there is one for Milling though. Seems like more people do cnc milling than turning.
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Jan 2, 2016 22:33
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To elaborate, I never have any issue designing a basic 2/3d shape when modeling in Fusion 360. It's just stupid poo poo like creating tabs or a stock bounding box around the model which takes dozens of tries to align it correctly that I can't stand; the CAM setup lets you establish a stock size around the model which would be great if it would ever actually generate a full profile toolpath and not leave 1/3 of every round edge unmilled. I've been importing 2d dxf shapes into Estlcam which has a free demo and seemingly intuitive toolpath creation, except that it doesn't want to retain any toolpaths I generate or make any 3d shapes as the demos say it should. I installed Cambam but it tells me the trial is expired right off the bat so I haven't really bothered. Cut 2d seems pretty cool but you can't save anything with the demo except the tutorial files.
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Jan 3, 2016 01:25
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I have been trying to figure out how to make a tube with a tapered hole through it in Fusion for a while. I seriously don't get the creation process. I don't think I am that dumb, but this program makes me feel clueless. I want to make a tube with a #1 morse taper in it. I have tried to draw the large end, and the small end, and connect them with lines and revolve it out to a cone and then draw the cylinder around it, but it doesn't seem to let me select the inner cone and use it to cut that shape hold in the cylinder. I have a few more ideas that I will try soon, but I really don't want to end up being that guy on their official forums asking for people to basically make my projects for me step by step.
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Jan 3, 2016 02:04
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Fusion has a good set of tutorial videos, which I should probably return to. But yea, despite years of casual use of 2/3d design programs I just feel clueless doing operations that seem like they should be really simple.
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Jan 3, 2016 02:06
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:After months of gathering dust my shapeoko is finally making some of its own: I've spent the last three days struggling through a usable workflow to get to the point that I could mill out some slats for holding down other workpieces.
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Jan 3, 2016 18:15
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Yeah, it's under Geometry on the second tab. It may be limited to certain operations, but it's definitely available in 2D contour.
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Jan 3, 2016 22:15
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Parts Kit posted:Yeah, it's under Geometry on the second tab. It may be limited to certain operations, but it's definitely available in 2D contour. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQZMaG1eO74
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Jan 6, 2016 01:36
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I knew if I complained loud enough while exerting no effort myself someone would find it for me!
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Jan 6, 2016 20:56
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It just popped up randomly after one update so it was a pleasant surprise to me a while back. 
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Jan 7, 2016 00:43
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I'm just about ready to buy my Taig eeeeeeeeeee I'm gonna go with the Soigeneris package based on what people here have said- http://www.soigeneris.com/taig_cnc_mill_packages-details.aspx Is it worth springing for the starter kit? It has- Taig Mill Starter Kit A All items in the Basic Kit Taig 1159 belt (spare) Taig 2228 edge finder Taig 1310 Spindle Wrenches (2) Taig 1140ER drill chuck adapter Taig 1090-1/4” Jacobs chuck (industrial) Taig Line filter kit Set of 8 A2Z Tuff-Nuts (T-nuts) A2Z T-slot cleaner A2Z WHMCS (small short) toggle clamp A2Z TRS10-32 stud kit for clamps CamBam License For an extra $231, and supposedly saves you about a hundred instead of buying that stuff separately. Idk how useful that stuff will end up being to me, though, I don't have much frame of reference. And I remember reading about Jacobs chucks being "really kind of lovely" for substantive and accurate work, should I also get a proper set of collets/end mill holders? Also, how are their prices for end mills n bits? http://www.soigeneris.com/end_mills-list.aspx I'm in Canada and the shipping on this thing is already gonna be really painful, so if I can get everything I need to start doing at least basic learning stuff all at once that'd be preferable. Alternately, an acceptably-affordable Canadian source for little bits n cutting tools would be great. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Jan 15, 2016 |
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Jan 15, 2016 20:00
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Lee Valley carries Taig stuff. I have bought a few things there because some of it fits my Sherline gear. Mostly lathe though, although I am sure you could order stuff through them and it might save you. (lol $.69 cent dollar...) I also buy a number of my tools from Travers canada, KBC tools, Busy Bee tools, and Atlas machinery. You could also check micro mark in the US. For cutting tool prices, you can find stuff from about $8-$100 per bit depending on quality. We should chat once you get your gear. I am almost at the stage to start dialing in my gear to make sure it is accurate to the machine. EDIT: Also, the Collet set from Beall tools is great, although it does run about 4" long, so you can't mill very tall things. Very affordable.
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Jan 15, 2016 20:33
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I got a R8 collet set from Little Machine Shop years ago and it's been great. It sits just under the opening of the spindle so no real loss of working room and a huge, huge improvement in working room over the R8 taper drill chuck. Not entirely sure if that's the right one for the Taig though.
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Jan 15, 2016 23:58
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Newer Taigs come with ER16 spindles, which seem pretty easy to find collets for. Lee Valley has a tiny weird variety of Taig mill parts, like wee small two-sided HSS end mill sets and fly cutters, which is good to know. I figure I'll just get a collet set from Soigeneris so I can get going on things sooner rather than later.
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Jan 16, 2016 20:36
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So: bits. I'm thinking i'll just pick up a cheapie set of HSS miniature double end mills and fart around with those until I'm done breaking bits doing dumb poo poo and understand the limits of what I can do without more specialized cutting tools.I know I'll need ball end mills and probably engraving + other specialized bits eventually for what I'm interested in, but I'm not worrying about those yet. I take it that carbide bits aren't worth shelling out for at this point even though I intend to work mostly in metal b/c goof-ups will claim bits faster than wear, right? And- measurement tools. This is where I'm kind of totally in the dark, all the metalworking I've ever done has never needed anything more than a steel rule and vernier calipers and yer mark I eyeball. What's a bare-minimum tool suite to get the machine set up properly and allow me to do most basic work? Edge/center finders + dial test indicator + machinist's blocks, something like that?
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Jan 21, 2016 01:38
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Ambrose Burnside posted:And- measurement tools. This is where I'm kind of totally in the dark, all the metalworking I've ever done has never needed anything more than a steel rule and vernier calipers and yer mark I eyeball. What's a bare-minimum tool suite to get the machine set up properly and allow me to do most basic work? Edge/center finders + dial test indicator + machinist's blocks, something like that? Really depends on what kind of tolerances you're looking to hit. Digital calipers can fill most of your parts-measuring needs, but for tramming the mill and measuring travel, you'll probably want some of these: dial test indicator DTI holder for the mill's spindle (in case it didn't come with one), IE this setup:  travel indicator a pair of 1-2-3 blocks Maybe a 1" micrometer and a set of telescoping bore gauges.
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Jan 21, 2016 03:22
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for tramming i just drilled a hole in a steel rod the right size for the indicator post, then cross-drilled & tapped a hole for a set screw and bent the rod in a way that lets me sweep out ~16" or so, works great, cost $2 and an hour.
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Jan 22, 2016 04:46
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rotor posted:for tramming i just drilled a hole in a steel rod the right size for the indicator post, then cross-drilled & tapped a hole for a set screw and bent the rod in a way that lets me sweep out ~16" or so, works great, cost $2 and an hour. That's more or less the bestest halfassed way to do it, too. All the bar has to be is rigid enough to avoid deflection as you swing the indicator around, no more, no less.
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Jan 22, 2016 14:42
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http://www.ezpullerusa.com/product_results.asp?ID=26 This company makes a tramming tool for all sizes of mills, and it is cheap and apparently works well.
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Jan 22, 2016 19:59
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oh drat that mini-tram from accudyne looks like it would be nice for my g0704 but I already got it trammed straight and don't feel like paying $270
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Jan 23, 2016 05:47
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My new leadscrew came for my larger sherline, so its time to get this retrofit finished and start crashing some tools in to the chuck!
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Jan 28, 2016 00:22
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mill purchased. The Pact Is Sealed
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Feb 3, 2016 22:58
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Ambrose Burnside posted:mill purchased. The Pact Is Sealed  Did anyone figure out a good place to learn cad-to-CAM (focus on the CAM part) or am I stuck banging away at fusion 360 / cambam until I give up and just start breaking tools?
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Feb 4, 2016 00:34
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How important is chip-clearing for milling metal? I see a lot of hobbyists with compressed air setups to blow stuff free, which makes sense, but I'd think that'd require a pretty decent compressor to be working at 100% duty for hours at a time. e: The DTI I'm looking at has a magnetic base but no holder for the spindle. Is that the kind of thing I can throw together or make for myself or do I not strictly need one at all for setting up?
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Feb 4, 2016 03:18
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When I mill I just have a brush that I wipe with as I go. With or without coolant, depending on what I'm cutting.
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Feb 4, 2016 04:40
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Ambrose Burnside posted:How important is chip-clearing for milling metal? I see a lot of hobbyists with compressed air setups to blow stuff free, which makes sense, but I'd think that'd require a pretty decent compressor to be working at 100% duty for hours at a time. Any chip that's not clear is more metal your mill has to cut. If you calculate the chip load correctly it should be fairly self-clearing.
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Feb 4, 2016 06:13
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For most purposes you can get away with a really small amount of air. With a small enough nozzle you could get away with a good airbrush compressor. 1-2scfm would be plenty.
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Feb 4, 2016 19:07
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I found an awesome old machinists' apprentice manual put out by South Bend in 1937. Reading through the whole thing and discovering lots of cool stuff I didn't know about lathes. Amazing what you can do with them given clever setup -- they really are the universal tool. Like, I bet you didn't know that you can sharpen an entire reel lawnmower in one shot? And it has step-by-step instructions on annealing and hardening (including case-hardening) steel for any time you need to make your own tools truly from scratch. Great stuff. Also, the book has been really impressing on me how important it is, when machining steel, to use plenty of lard. 
Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Feb 8, 2016 |
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Feb 8, 2016 07:27
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You want to pick up "Machine Shop Practice." You won't regret it. http://www.amazon.com/Machine-Shop-Practice-Vol-1/dp/0831111267 http://www.amazon.com/Machine-Shop-Practice-Vol-2/dp/0831111321 Buy both.
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Feb 8, 2016 09:33
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CrazyLittle posted:Any chip that's not clear is more metal your mill has to cut. If you calculate the chip load correctly it should be fairly self-clearing. It's worse than that, chips your machine makes are cut with proper geometry and thickness, chips that get recut tend to smear and gall the cutter is fairly short order. It also ruins your surface finish and generally makes things look like crap.
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Feb 9, 2016 09:18
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Just a friendly reminder to always keep your ballscrews and table ways clean and oiled. I managed to lock up my g0704 y-axis because I didn't keep the ballscrew wet with oil, and the wood dust gummed everything up.
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Feb 10, 2016 08:16
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Carvey has been shipping since December 2015 but no reviews or anything I can find with a quick google search (other than kinda puff pieces and a couple articles from Make and Engadget all from 2014) Last time I encountered this kind of new product silence it was for Makerbot's 5th gen 3d printers  
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Feb 10, 2016 15:32
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CrazyLittle posted:Just a friendly reminder to always keep your ballscrews and table ways clean and oiled. Yep, you'll want to get or make way covers basically as soon as possible when working with wood. Wood dust converts oil into a glue-like paste, and can be mildly acidic and royally gently caress up surfaces if left long enough. Ball nuts do not like to be filled with a gritty sticky paste.
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Feb 11, 2016 22:24
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The CNC cookbook guy rams home how important accurately calculating feeds n speeds is, which isn't super surprising 'cause he sells calculators for just that. Practically speaking, how important is it for hobbyist work? If I'm in the ballpark for acceptable spindle/travel speed n flute count for the material and particular task, I wouldn't think the difference in tool life/working speed would even be noticeable if I'm not running the mill all the dang time and not making basic mistakes like running everything super-slow or plowing the bit into the table at full tilt or whatever.
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Feb 19, 2016 06:59
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Ballpark's good enough. You'll get better results depending on where you are in the ballpark, of course, but if you're not setting up a shop that's cranking out parts on tiny margins then you should be fine. I mean heck - the speed/feed calculators can often spit out numbers your machine simply can't meet. What do you do at that point? CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 08:32 on Feb 19, 2016 |
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Feb 19, 2016 08:09
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Upgrade?
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Feb 19, 2016 14:00
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CrazyLittle posted:I mean heck - the speed/feed calculators can often spit out numbers your machine simply can't meet. What do you do at that point?
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Feb 20, 2016 13:50
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Parts Kit posted:Use the closest you can and adjust the feed rate as necessary from what I remember in the machine shop lab I took at my alma mater. There will be times even a huge loving bridgeport can't put out the raw speed something comes out as, especially for tiny bits in soft materials. Precisely 
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Feb 20, 2016 17:04
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The calculators you find online are meant for production facilities where you need to optimize both cycle time and tool life because they affect your bottom line. For the hobbyist who doesn't care if a part takes twice as long as it theoretically could, or who wouldn't wear out a tool in a year of use, the specifics don't matter anywhere near as much. Get the chip load right, take a light cut, and all the rest just dial in based on the sound.
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Feb 20, 2016 20:02
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