|
I'm slowly killing my F-15E with bad coats of gloss varnish. I need a bigger nozzle on my airbrush. But I have a question about washes for panel lines and such. I have experimented with acrylic washes and enamel washes but I can't seem to get anywhere. Both acrylic and enamel washes seem to stick to the "gloss" varnish and won't come off unless I wipe it with airbrush cleaner, Vallejo thinner or enamel thinner respectively. But that seems to soften the underlying varnish and I'm afraid I'm going to ruin 30 hours of work if try to wipe the whole model with it. It also takes the wash out of the panel lines. What about oil wash? Will "odorless oil thinner" whatever that contains be safe on the gloss coat? It all looks so easy on youtube.
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2016 22:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 06:51 |
|
|
With the track done and running really well and looking nice it's time to ruin everything by dumping ground up nut shells and glue on everything.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2016 22:37
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:With the track done and running really well and looking nice it's time to ruin everything by dumping ground up nut shells and glue on everything. Is there any advantage to gluing down the ballast after the track is secured via tiny tiny nails? I mean, other then avoiding eventual shifts in gravel. Tiny train update from me; Narrowgauge fleet almost complete. Decided on a Green/Red/Blue color scheme to visually ID the narrow gauge steam locomotives. Not too pleased with the shade of red though, looks like a dull brown. Unsure of the 1099 Electric in the background. On the one hand, matching wagons, on the other, very inappropriate OBB logos everywhere. Next step for these locomotives is to get functioning headlights. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2016 23:42
|
|
|
makka-setan posted:I'm slowly killing my F-15E with bad coats of gloss varnish. I need a bigger nozzle on my airbrush. I get that problem a lot and I think the answer is to let the varnish dry a lot longer. I think most varnish cures for a while after it feels dry, maybe for a day or two (or even more).
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2016 00:15
|
|
|
N17R4M posted:Is there any advantage to gluing down the ballast after the track is secured via tiny tiny nails? I mean, other then avoiding eventual shifts in gravel. Not using any nails, all the track is just glued down, lot less chance of the track kinking that way and the nail heads look pretty bad in N scale. Are you asking why glue the ballast after securing the track rather than using the ballast to the secure the track, or why glue the ballast at all? If it's the former because the glue for the track grabs and dries quick and holds strong. If it's the later: because that gravel will get everywhere the moment you look away from it. All model train scenery needs to be very well secured or it will just blow off and become a horrible mess within hours. I mean unless you're doing some big like garden sized railway and using actual gravel for ballast, gravity will mostly take care of that. But other than huge outdoor layouts you can almost ride on, you need to glue everything down.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2016 00:59
|
|
|
makka-setan posted:But I have a question about washes for panel lines and such. I have experimented with acrylic washes and enamel washes but I can't seem to get anywhere. Both acrylic and enamel washes seem to stick to the "gloss" varnish and won't come off unless I wipe it with airbrush cleaner, Vallejo thinner or enamel thinner respectively. But that seems to soften the underlying varnish and I'm afraid I'm going to ruin 30 hours of work if try to wipe the whole model with it. It also takes the wash out of the panel lines. How long are you letting your wash dry? If you're doing an acrylic wash, you need to clean off any excess within minutes of applying it. Enamels you can let go a bit longer, but still don't leave it more than a half hour. Saying that, generally when you are cleaning off the excess, you are going to use some sort of thinning agent to help clean away said excess. Get a stack of cotton buds, and just very lightly dampen the end, and then use that to clean paint away. You want to use a delicate touch as well, as rough scrubbing or using too much thinner will pull the wash out of the panel lines. You may want to try some of the Clay Washes places like Flory Models sells. With those you basically slop on the wash with a brush everywhere, wait for it to fully dry, and then use a lightly water-dampened paper towel to scrub the surface and pull all the wash on the surface away, which will just leave the wash in the panel lines. They're super forgiving, and can be completely removed and reapplied if needed, and won't harm the model at all. They're basically just water, clay, and wetting agent, so there's nothing complicated to them at all.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2016 02:08
|
|
|
So for the next crap build, clearly we should tackle the 1/35 Dora Railway Gun. You guys have a spare $800, right?
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2016 03:03
|
|
|
Don't forget the $200 you'll blow on the paint that puppy will soak up.  Is that yours? In other news, I've got MiniArt's new T-44 coming from Hong Kong 
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2016 03:55
|
|
|
Approximately infinite wheels.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2016 04:51
|
|
|
Hey, at least there are no track links to worry about.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2016 05:21
|
|
|
Gewehr 43 posted:Is that yours? Hell no! I tend to get bored halfway through a standard 1/35 model kit. Something like the Dora would never even get remotely close to done on my benchtop. I did just finish my big Hulk figure. I want to make a base for him, but not sure exactly what yet. Maybe a rocky desert base, since I think I remember reading he spent a good deal of time in the desert evading the military.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2016 06:53
|
|
|
Thanks for the replys. The acrylic wash I tried was left only for a minute until it looked dry at least. The enamel was left a few more minutes but I pretty much had the same experience. The varnish in question had been drying for about two days and felt pretty solid. The clay stuff sounds interesting, I'll see if they have it at the hobby shop.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2016 08:34
|
|
|
makka-setan posted:The clay stuff sounds interesting, I'll see if they have it at the hobby shop. They probably won't carry it. You can get Flory's product here, and Ultimate Modelling Products here. I use the Flory product, and it produced great results. It can be a tad heavy, so it's maybe not best for tight confines like the inner corner of a piece where it would he hard to clean the excess from, but for panel lines it's brilliant. Even if it does go on heavy though, just saturate with water and it will come out a week later, or a year later. It won't be permanent until you overcoat it with something else. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tliilYZuo6M https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4sJAEt2yXw
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2016 09:23
|
|
|
I need a replacement canopy for a 1/72 Tamiya A6E Intruder. I'd try to order through Tamiya's online store but the instructions are in Japanese (since I bought it in Japan) and I can't decipher them well enough to type in parts numbers. Short of buying an entire new kit, does anyone have recommendations for sourcing a replacement. Also, liquid mask isn't all that great for masking canopies. This poo poo is why I build vehicles. It's a lot easier to throw mud on something you screw up.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2016 09:27
|
|
|
Nostalgia4Ass posted:I need a replacement canopy for a 1/72 Tamiya A6E Intruder. I'd try to order through Tamiya's online store but the instructions are in Japanese (since I bought it in Japan) and I can't decipher them well enough to type in parts numbers. Short of buying an entire new kit, does anyone have recommendations for sourcing a replacement. Crash diorama?
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2016 13:14
|
|
|
Nostalgia4Ass posted:I need a replacement canopy for a 1/72 Tamiya A6E Intruder. I'd try to order through Tamiya's online store but the instructions are in Japanese (since I bought it in Japan) and I can't decipher them well enough to type in parts numbers. Short of buying an entire new kit, does anyone have recommendations for sourcing a replacement.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2016 16:03
|
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:Hell no! I tend to get bored halfway through a standard 1/35 model kit. Something like the Dora would never even get remotely close to done on my benchtop. Umm... didn't you get a wooden ship model? I'd think the Dora would be a piece of cake compared to something like the HMS Snake.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2016 00:21
|
|
|
The Locator posted:Umm... didn't you get a wooden ship model? I'd think the Dora would be a piece of cake compared to something like the HMS Snake. Technically it's easier, but at 3000+ pieces, just the length of time to complete it would turn me off.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2016 01:05
|
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:Technically it's easier, but at 3000+ pieces, just the length of time to complete it would turn me off. I started counting individual parts on the AVS when I finished it, and ended up somewhere over 2500, and it's a single mast with a single square topsail, and not nearly as many guns. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2016 01:08
|
|
|
I finally finished the 1:72 F-15 Strike Eagle (Academy 12478) and it was mostly a horror story. The kit itself wasn't the best. There was issues with fitting and I had to do a lot of filling and sanding. The air intakes are built as separate boxes, but there were no locating pins or guides to keep the shape. It was pretty much freehand gluing. They also didn't fit the fuselage. The side fuel tanks didn't have any guides either. And the instructions were very unclear about armament, colors and decals. Oh, and the decals were this thick plastic film that didn't seem to have any adhesive on them at all. And I hosed up the paint. I used the recommended Vallejo 047 gray but it's just too dark for a small model like this. I should have mixed in a bit of white for scale fade. Did a gloss coat before decals and pin washing but my 0.2mm nozzle required 25 psi to draw the varnish through and it mostly created a satin mist. After a few coats I had filled most of the panel lines so the pin wash pretty much failed. I tried both enamel and acrylic washes but when wiping the excess it would either get stuck in the not-so-glossy varnish or get wiped off completely from the near non-existing panel lines. But the worst fail was when I put the matt varnish on and discovered hundreds of tiny cotton fibers from the wash wipe off that were invisible. I thought I cleaned the model pretty thoroughly but the matt varnish brought all the dust out. I guess the model looks fine from a distance but I'm not at all happy with the process or the result. But at least I learned some lessons and the next model will be better. My goal is to build my skills enough to do a 1:48 A-10 Warthog with a bunch of photo etch stuff. But I realize I'm far from tackling such a project.  Next up is my first ever tank! 
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2016 18:03
|
|
|
You're being way too hard on yourself. From that photo it looks like a good clean build with a well executed finish. We all make mistakes and knowing you have and is the learning from it part. Don't be scared by photo etch either.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2016 02:35
|
|
|
makka-setan posted:I finally finished the 1:72 F-15 Strike Eagle (Academy 12478) and it was mostly a horror story. That's a... bad... job? Looks good to me.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2016 03:49
|
|
|
Thanks! Considering the problems and the mistakes the model does look pretty ok from a distance, I agree. The picture does not show the defects very well (I posted the best one I took) and it doesn't look how I imagined. So I guess it was a successful failure? Don't you get that optimistic feeling when you start working on a model and you're really careful about details and finishing, but for each mistake you make you sort of start to think "oh, gently caress it" and just do the last steps sort of half-assed since you know it's not going to be like you wanted it anyway?
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2016 09:46
|
|
|
I managed to get a 1/6 Tiger I cupola kit for cheap (€45 instead of €150 or even €300 for the later style). It comes with working hatch spring, lock etc etc I guess I also have to make a turret for it.... feature creep si already setting in!
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2016 14:09
|
|
|
Maybe you could do a repair scene, with the turret up on a support structure and the guy working on it. You could probably mock all that up with Plastruct shapes and a bit of wood.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2016 14:21
|
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:Maybe you could do a repair scene, with the turret up on a support structure and the guy working on it. You could probably mock all that up with Plastruct shapes and a bit of wood. It's a cool idea, a guy I know is building a HUGE Bilstein crane in 1/6 from metal. Thing is that it's freaking enormous. But making a full turret will cost me quite a bit of cash which I don't really have, so I was more thinking about something smaller like this 
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2016 16:21
|
|
|
There's 1:6th Tiger pioneer tools and tow hooks at my local hobby shop. Do people really buy these things piecemeal?
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2016 18:56
|
|
|
It's more likely a customer order that they didn't pick up or didn't meet their exacting requirements, either that or it was offered by a wholesaler at such a stupidly low price (compared to retail) that the shop bought it on spec.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2016 23:52
|
|
|
 good lord that was a little bit too big Finished P-47N. Getting a bit better. This was the first time I used an airbrush, for the blue on the cowling (the colors didn't quite match...:/). I definitely didn't get a shiny aluminium finish but the stuff I used looks decent enough, like un-polished aluminium (was Tamyia spray stuff). I love this color scheme, it is like the pilot asked his 5 year old to color his plane and just went with it. Got the Tamyia 1/48 A6M2 and finished putting the big parts together today...get to airbrush a WHOLE MODEL this week which is a great opportunity to fail! bewbies fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Feb 22, 2016 |
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2016 01:40
|
|
|
bewbies posted:
Looking good. It looks much like my attempts at painting metal, I'd be interested to know how one gets a polished finish. I broke some bits and now I'm using a bit of stainless steel pin to fix together some plastic parts. Will CA superglue bond steel and model plastic? I can get a tube of that easily tonight or go to the hardware store for something else, but I don't have any model stores near me.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2016 03:36
|
|
|
It'll work fine, don't worry about it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2016 03:38
|
|
|
Excellent. I drilled out the post that the tiny little turret rotates around last night and so far the fix has gone so well I'm dreading murphy's law coming to effect tonight.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2016 03:53
|
|
|
Working on painting Iron Man and I've run into an odd situation. I used Tamiya masking tape to mask off the gold and silver areas while I painted the red for 2 or 3 days. I just took the masking tape off and it has left tape residue everywhere on the gold, which was painted with Tamiya Gold Leaf, but not on the silver, painted with Vallejo Model Air silver. It looks horrible and I'm really disappointed. I've tried a couple things to get it off like taking a piece of tape and trying to grab it up but nothing has worked. Any way to get it off, or do I basically have to sand it off and repaint? If that's the case, it's a real pain in the rear cause most of the gold parts are tiny and hard to mask off.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2016 03:55
|
|
|
You might be able to just kind of rub it with your fingers to get the adhesive a bit gummy with your own body heat and it may come off.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2016 13:40
|
|
|
Since I got a freebie Airfix 'Actually a Vampire' after my purchase of their 'Not Really a Vampire' I thought I might as well go hog wild.  Camo completely invented because I didn't want to do silver again. Went together well, built in one day and painted the next.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2016 16:41
|
|
|
It blends in to the sky when looking from below, and aging bananas when looking from above!
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2016 16:46
|
|
|
Colonial Air Force posted:It blends in to the sky when looking from below, and aging bananas when looking from above! So dessert camo?
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2016 18:31
|
|
|
Colonial Air Force posted:It blends in to the sky when looking from below, and aging bananas when looking from above! Perfect camo for a Banana Republic!
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2016 21:21
|
|
|
Well my three year old boy in total isolation from any exterior influence has developed a massive interest in WWII armour (it must just be genetic I suppose). He can already identify Matildas (Queens of the desert), Shermans, Churchills (and Crocodile funnies - the ones with the trailers!), T-34s, Panthers, Tigers and Italian P-26s. I've never been so proud! Any way I dug out two cases of my old FoW 15mm armour to let him have a look at. I snapped a few quick pics of some T-34s with Tankodesantniki in the kitchen to share as I thought you guys might like them. If you want more pics I have a few more tanks etc I can photo if you like? Different scales are always interesting I find.  
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2016 23:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 06:51 |
|
|
Do they not get in the way of aiming the turret for the mad FoW facing rules? Really nicely done though.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2016 02:51
|
|