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I'm still having a weird phantom coolant leak. I can't find it, but I can smell it. Coolant level isn't moving much(at all), but I can smell it pretty strongly when I have been driving and then pop the hood. Anyone know what this might be?
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Feb 15, 2016 22:07
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--ignore this. browser error.
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Feb 15, 2016 22:16
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 IIRC someone on SA posted this and claimed to know the owner. Would like to know if you know what aftermarket fender flares those are. Those would look great on my MJ and hide my terrible bondo work when I finish fixing the rust under my flares.
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Feb 15, 2016 22:25
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I had a a pinhole leak in the factory radiator that was in a good spot to have the leaking coolant spray right into the fan. Never left a trail, just covered the entire engine bay in coolant. You could also have a failed seal in the water pump, allowing coolant to leak out of the weep hole and get sprayed everywhere. Add some UV dye to your radiator and look for leaks with a black light.
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Feb 15, 2016 22:27
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PadreScout posted:I'm still having a weird phantom coolant leak. I can't find it, but I can smell it. Coolant level isn't moving much(at all), but I can smell it pretty strongly when I have been driving and then pop the hood. Anyone know what this might be? Also crawl up underneath and check the expansion/freeze plugs on the driver side buried underneath the manifolds - one or more might be corroded thru and ever so slightly leaking. Mine did that after 27 years of PO hose-water neglect. You'll need a double jointed neck and a good flashlight.
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Feb 15, 2016 22:54
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iForge posted:
I'm also interested. I'll probably be redoing all the flares after I repaint.
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Feb 15, 2016 22:57
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EightBit posted:I had a a pinhole leak in the factory radiator that was in a good spot to have the leaking coolant spray right into the fan. Never left a trail, just covered the entire engine bay in coolant. You could also have a failed seal in the water pump, allowing coolant to leak out of the weep hole and get sprayed everywhere. Add some UV dye to your radiator and look for leaks with a black light. Yeah I had a leak in the upper radiator hose right behind the hose clip once. Would coat my engine bay in coolant and leave no visible trail. Luckily was easy to find and fix. I would definitely replace your hoses if they're really old and it's been a while.
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Feb 15, 2016 23:12
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Sandbagger SA posted:I'm also interested. I'll probably be redoing all the flares after I repaint. They look like Bushwacker style flares. Edit: yup def Bushwacker flares.
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Feb 16, 2016 00:50
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Crossposting from my own thread - I fixed the vacuum line on my WJ. P0171 hasn't come back, but it still has P0174 in some weird set-but-not-set state. It doesn't turn on the check engine light (the light still comes on during startup so I know it's not burnt out from overuse  ). If you do the key cycle or pull codes with a scanner, P0174 is still there even though I've cleared it at least twice. I have two new O2 sensors waiting for me to get some time to put them in since they were dirt cheap (Denso) and I suspect the ones on it are Autozone parts. It runs fine so I'm still leaning towards vacuum leak more than O2 sensor but at least I'll be able to rule them out.Any thoughts on where to look next on the 4.7?
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Feb 16, 2016 05:20
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IOwnCalculus posted:Crossposting from my own thread - I fixed the vacuum line on my WJ. P0171 hasn't come back, but it still has P0174 in some weird set-but-not-set state. It doesn't turn on the check engine light (the light still comes on during startup so I know it's not burnt out from overuse Throttle plate shaft likes to wear out the aluminum around it and leak. Mine was a whistling so i dabbed some high vacuum grease in there and it was good. Have you checked the IAC? IIRC there is no IAC gasket, just a small o-ring, could be cracked. I replaced all the vacuum lines on mine as well. The line back by the firewall was the worst of them.
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Feb 16, 2016 05:40
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mattfl posted:They look like Bushwacker style flares. I wonder how these will look with stockish (read "cheap") tires. Edit: $425 on amazon? OOF! Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Feb 16, 2016 |
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Feb 16, 2016 15:52
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Sandbagger SA posted:I wonder how these will look with stockish (read "cheap") tires. Aftermarket flares are always expensive. That's why most JK guys just trim the stock ones to fit bigger tires.
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Feb 16, 2016 16:01
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mattfl posted:Aftermarket flares are always expensive. That's why most JK guys just trim the stock ones to fit bigger tires. For sure. I've got time to think about it. If I can manage to make the body look decent enough, I might actually try to put some cool looking flares on. If not, I'll just go cheap.
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Feb 16, 2016 16:13
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You can fit up to 33s on an MJ with stock bumpstopping and stock rear fender flares if you trim about 1-1.5" off the sheetmetal and fender flare where the tire will hit it at the trailing end. Leading end of the rear flares and fenders clears fine. The front fenders/flares? Not so much, gotta trim a decent amount, bend the pinch welds over on the inner fenders, and if you care, get aftermarket fender flares or relocate the factory ones. Either that or bumpstop the poo poo out of it and trim a bit less.
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Feb 16, 2016 16:42
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durr- i'm an idiot. I went to test fit and measure my rear driveshaft and then remembered that I need to swap in a 23 spline slip yoke before it'll work. Whoops.
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Feb 16, 2016 22:39
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All slip yokes on NP231 rear outputs are 27 spline, 96+ or 95-, it doesn't matter. The only thing that matters is whether the sealing surface (outside diameter of the yoke over the splined section) is machined and smooth, or rusty and cratered. 95- will be the former, 96+ will be the latter, since they're only protected up to the grease boot. You probably have one of the former since IIRC SiF just sawzalled the driveshafts. I always forget that the 2wd trannies had a different rear output spline than the 4wd ones. Out of curiosity, how many splines on your 2wd BA-10/5 slip yoke? I'm guessing 21, like the AX4/AX5 had (I think), but not 100% sure. I have no idea what 2wd AW4s would have, could have been 21, 23, or 27. e: make sure you get the slip yoke seated to the right spot before measuring - the same spot it was at at ride height, so the seal lip rides in roughly the same spot or maybe a liiiittle bit further onto the clean part of the yoke, but not very far. If you run the seal on the nasty dirty rusty area that used to be exposed all the time on a regular basis you'll chew up rear output seals regularly.
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Feb 16, 2016 23:41
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kastein posted:You probably have one of the former since IIRC SiF just sawzalled the driveshafts. This is the case. Unfortunately, it's at my parents' house so I have to work in a moment this week to go get it. kastein posted:Out of curiosity, how many splines on your 2wd BA-10/5 slip yoke? I'm guessing 21, like the AX4/AX5 had (I think), but not 100% sure. I have no idea what 2wd AW4s would have, could have been 21, 23, or 27. I didn't count because I was trying to limit the amount of laying in cold mud under my truck as much as possible but I would assume 21 is correct. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Feb 17, 2016 |
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Feb 17, 2016 00:24
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Tonight I fished a 15mm socket from the XJ's unibody frame rail; from all the way down by the trans support and out the front wheelwell, without the aid of Blood Magic or Voodoo. Fuckin' magnets: how do they work?
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Feb 17, 2016 06:09
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I tried to replace my pinion seal last night but was foiled by a strong-rear end nut. I put a pipe wrench on the yoke to hold it from spinning, and I pushed as hard as I could with my ~20" breaker bar. No joy. With the way the yoke was turned I couldn't get a good angle on the bar to put an extension on it to really stand on the nut. Do you guys think the Harbor Freight 1/2 In. Heavy Duty Electric Impact Wrench would break this pinion nut loose? I can also try rolling the jeep a little to get a better angle at the nut. I put a piece of tape across the surfaces and spray painted over it so I have a reference line to get the nut back on where it needs to be. 
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Feb 19, 2016 |
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Feb 19, 2016 16:45
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Astonishing Wang posted:Do you guys think the Harbor Freight 1/2 In. Heavy Duty Electric Impact Wrench would break this pinion nut loose? You'll laugh but I've done every bolt in the front end my MJ and (formerly) my XJ with a Ryobi 18v impact wrench. They're totally worth it for quickly removing a bit that you can't quite get a long enough breaker bar on.
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Feb 19, 2016 17:00
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I have the milwaukee m18 impact driver and it didn't stand a chance on lug nuts so I didn't even consider trying it on this. Maybe there's a difference between impact wrench and impact driver? e: not the 1/2" milwaukee though
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Feb 19, 2016 17:06
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Astonishing Wang posted:I have the milwaukee m18 impact driver and it didn't stand a chance on lug nuts so I didn't even consider trying it on this. Maybe there's a difference between impact wrench and impact driver? The difference is typically 100-200 lb*ft of torque.
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Feb 19, 2016 17:18
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That might make a difference 
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Feb 19, 2016 17:40
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Astonishing Wang posted:I have the milwaukee m18 impact driver and it didn't stand a chance on lug nuts so I didn't even consider trying it on this. Maybe there's a difference between impact wrench and impact driver? An impact driver is normally for installing lag screws or other heavy duty fasteners into wood or what have you. It's an entirely different tool.  Here I am removing a control arm bolt from a donor D30 last year. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Feb 19, 2016 |
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Feb 19, 2016 18:02
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Jeep people, I need some help with a slip yoke before I lose my mind. I'm swapping a 4.0 / AX15 into an old truck for fun. The 2WD AX15 I got (came out of a 94 XJ with 4.0, at least according to the VIN from the salvage yard) didn't come with a slip yoke, and I'm having a hard time figuring out which part number is correct, or what I'm doing wrong. After some googling, I foolishly trusted a Jeep forum and bought a 2-3-6081X for a Turbo 350. While the splines are correct, it only slides onto the output shaft about 1" to 1.5" or so, leaving a ton hanging out. It hits something, but I can't figure out what. Looking at some Jeep parts catalogs (here is the catalog page http://tinyurl.com/hpxlsxq) and aftermarket websites (crown, quadratec), I've been researching a few of the other part numbers, and nothing seems correct. 53001987 - 2WD, but for 2.5L according to SOME websites, others say 4.0 as well. Did they put a different man-tran behind the 2.5, like an AX5? Summit is convinced this is a 30 spline, which would make this a no go even though it sounds like the most likely candidate. 83503574 - moparoverstock says 2WD, other sites say for NP231 t-case 83503593 - For automatic 4882714 - For 4WD 05114568AA - ?? Picture of output shaft:  I'll try calling a Jeep dealership and a local trans shop today.
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Feb 19, 2016 18:08
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I'll look through the catalog in a bit. Yes, the 2.5 and 4.0 got different trannies - the 2.5 got the AX4 or AX5 depending on whether you paid for 4 or 5 speeds, the 4.0 got the BA-10/5, AX15, NV3550, or NSG370 depending on year. A 94 XJ would have an external slave transmission, it should have a 3/4" pilot tip on the input shaft, and will be an AX15 for a 4.0 or an AX5 for a 2.5. I can't remember what was done for 2wd as they are fairly rare here and I never see them, but at least years/transmissions used the same spline on the 2wd output shaft as would normally be on the rear output of the t-case. As for the pinion nut issue, jack one wheel up and rotate the wheel till the pinion yoke is at a convenient angle, then put your foot/feet on the pipe wrench and both hands on the breaker bar and pretend you're a body builder. e: counting, that's a 27 spline output. Good to know, thanks for adding to my knowledgebank. So a 94 AX15 2wd has a 27 spline output, which IS the same as the rear output on a 4wd NP231/NP242 from the same year, so you should be able to use the 27 spline yoke from any 87-95 4wd 4.0L jeep. 4.0L may not even matter, but I know those ones have the yoke you need. The 96 and later use a different rear output and slip yoke design, thus the weird year split. Looking through the catalog as soon as it loads. e2: if you are anywhere near Massachusetts I may have one I can just give you. You need the 8350 3593. All 4x4 XJs and ZJs with all engines and all transmissions from 94-95 allegedly used 8350 3574 not 3593, so maybe I'm wrong on being able to use a 4wd one. If you really want to make sure, find the 8 digit + 2 letter (some don't have letters) part number on the transmission, it's probably on a silver or white sticker somewhere on the top near the shift turret, and post it. I'll see exactly what year/model it actually came from. e3: I checked the AX15 section of the same catalog and the rear yoke seal for a 2wd one is different from the rear yoke seal on 95-down NP231s/242s, so yes, I think they are right and you need a different yoke. The 8350 3593 is definitely the one you need unless they bullshit you about what the donor for the trans was, which that part number on top will tell me. kastein fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Feb 19, 2016 |
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Feb 19, 2016 18:24
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kastein posted:Ridiculously helpful stuff So if I'm reading all of this correctly, the 8350 3593 should work despite it having a different rear yoke seal? I'll check the number on the trans once I'm home. I can't thank you enough for the help! I wish I was close to MA, or I'd take you up on it. Feel like coming to CO for a vacation?
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Feb 19, 2016 19:12
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shoncook posted:Feel like coming to CO for a vacation? I think he only travels that far to buy Justys. 
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Feb 19, 2016 21:03
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shoncook posted:So if I'm reading all of this correctly, the 8350 3593 should work despite it having a different rear yoke seal? The 8350 3593 will work *because* it uses a different rear yoke seal, I believe. If it had the same seal the 4x4 one I might possibly have handy would work instead. And Sandbagger's right, I unfortunately very rarely make it out to CO.
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Feb 19, 2016 21:48
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My XJ draglink balljoint at the pitman arm was totally shot, and my already Jeepish steering was getting scary. I ordered new Moog ends and a new steering stabilizer went to grab one of those beefier ZJ tie rods from the junkyard. They're only supposed to come in V8 ZJs, but I found an amazingly clean one in a 95 4.0 zj so I yanked it - popped right out with two taps on each end with the 5lb sledge. Took it over a row and compared it to another ratty one in a V8 and they were the same. Slapped it all together today with the help of a friend who wants to learn mechanical stuff; everything went smoothly with only minimal balljoint battling. After a considerable amount of high-tech measuring tape work on the draglink/tierod/toe, we apprehensively took it out for a drive expecting death wobble and loud popping noises. It tracks very nearly perfectly straight, and my steering doesn't feel like I'm spinning frantically at the helm of Steamboat Willie anymore. Everything went too smoothly today; the Jeep gods have smiled upon me but the lesser gods are angry  
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Feb 20, 2016 03:10
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kastein posted:The 8350 3593 will work *because* it uses a different rear yoke seal, I believe. If it had the same seal the 4x4 one I might possibly have handy would work instead. The numbers are worn off somewhat badly, but the tag on this trans is: 52108048. Again, I really appreciate the help.
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Feb 20, 2016 03:29
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Was gonna do a coolant flush on my 91 Comanche 4.0 tomorrow, anything I should keep in mind that isn't readily apparent or covered in the guides online? Was gonna follow the instructions for the Prestone coolant flush solution then fill it with Zerex Original Recipe Green mixed 50/50 with distilled water. Anything I should know? Never done a coolant flush before.
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Feb 20, 2016 03:59
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I was bringing my old 2wd to d35 rear drive shaft in to get shortened and I go upsold on a new one. I should have pics Monday night 
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Feb 21, 2016 13:58
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Brit goon here  My girlfriend is sweet on a used Jeep Compass we spotted this afternoon whilst browsing the car lots: it's a 2013 2.2 CRD with 8666 miles on the clock but already had two owners which is a bit  to me. Is there any reason she should avoid this vehicle?
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Feb 21, 2016 19:16
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shoncook posted:The numbers are worn off somewhat badly, but the tag on this trans is: 52108048. Again, I really appreciate the help. Parts catalogs are on my computer at work, will take a look tomorrow. E: cancel that, got the 94-96 catalog from xjjeeps.com. yes, that is the trans for a 94-96 (maybe just 94-95, the catalog isn't clear on the matter) 4.0 2wd XJ. May also fit other years, but the slip yoke I listed will definitely fit. Out of curiosity, what are you putting it in? kastein fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Feb 21, 2016 |
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Feb 21, 2016 19:34
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Bacon Terrorist posted:Brit goon here Two people hated it enough to drive it less than 5000 miles average. I test drove one for kicks when my wife was buying her grand Cherokee and it isn't noteworthy in any way.
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Feb 21, 2016 22:01
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rally posted:Two people hated it enough to drive it less than 5000 miles average. I test drove one for kicks when my wife was buying her grand Cherokee and it isn't noteworthy in any way. We looked at them for my wife as well, not impressed at all.
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Feb 21, 2016 22:36
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Was gonna do a coolant flush on my 91 Comanche 4.0 tomorrow, anything I should keep in mind that isn't readily apparent or covered in the guides online? Was gonna follow the instructions for the Prestone coolant flush solution then fill it with Zerex Original Recipe Green mixed 50/50 with distilled water. Anything I should know? Never done a coolant flush before. Should be pretty straightforward. Treat your petcock gently, they can be brittle I think. Petcock.
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Feb 22, 2016 04:23
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kastein posted:Parts catalogs are on my computer at work, will take a look tomorrow. Perfect, I'll get one ordered. Though I'm extremely far from needing it, I'd like to get parts here before I need them. It's going into my 1954 International R110. It originally had a straight 6 that windowed the block. Then the second one had so little compression it wouldn't move out of its own way, so now on to something newer. I'm starting to think that going with something that isn't a large V8 is a fool's errand, but the point of this pickup is not speed, and the 4.0 fits the spirit of the truck more anyway. And hey, I could always stroke the 4.0, right? That's totally a good rabbit hole to go down...
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Feb 22, 2016 04:38
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Senordingdong posted:Should be pretty straightforward. Treat your petcock gently, they can be brittle I think. Petcock. Petcock indeed. Really though, drain from the lower rad hose where it meets the block. Those petcocks break just looking at them wrong.
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Feb 22, 2016 05:22
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