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What kind of psi are you guys brushing on?
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Feb 22, 2016 07:44
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Yeast posted:Finished my first Hellhound, and another 3 Chimeras over the weekend This thing is awesome. Is that a ton of salt weathering or did you use chipping fluid stuff? Lord Twisted posted:What kind of psi are you guys brushing on? 10-15 PSI for pretty much everything. I mostly use VGA and VMA. I sometimes bump it nearer to 20 if I'm trying to get a particularly uncooperative non-airbrush ready paint out or priming. Pre-shading vehicle panel lines is 5-10 but I suck at it.
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Feb 22, 2016 07:58
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I tend to basecoat or prime at around 25-30 and do my general work at about 15-20. Pre-shades and panel lines I do at about 5-10, but like TT I am also terrible at it.
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Feb 22, 2016 08:27
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BULBASAUR posted:I tend to basecoat or prime at around 25-30 and do my general work at about 15-20. Pre-shades and panel lines I do at about 5-10, but like TT I am also terrible at it. One day I'll find a colour scheme that calls for dumbell lines and paint spatters. 
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Feb 22, 2016 09:17
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That's why I like weathering. I can screw up big time and still make it look good afterwards. An airbrush is great, but personally I prefer combining an airbrush with a paint brush. I'm not a fan of an all airbrushed look. Going over your work afterwards with washes/filters and brushes helps ground it in a good way in my opinion.
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Feb 22, 2016 09:44
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Didn't get any painting done this weekend as I had to do some decorating but I did finally put together that hobbyzone painting station. In hindsight I should've probably bought the medium size one not the large one as it's a bit too big to hide away easily. I did get to build a ghetto lightbox using the box it came in by using my painting lamp over the top and dulled with paper. Actually quite impressed with how the images turn out, still haven't quite got the hang of the exposure and aperture settings but at least I don't have to edit the white balance in Photoshop any more. Should I be aiming for somewhere between 0 and +1 on the exposure settings? I have the rest of the settings at iso 10,0 f3.3 and 1/30 shutter speed and macro turned off as the camera wont let me manually adjust the focus otherwise. Not as happy as the quality I got with my old SLR but that got toddlered. Here's an image dump of some of the stuff I've posted recently taken with the lightbox and those camera settings and my favourite Eldar model from a few years ago now with added cobwebs (can see one on his swords hilt but at close up he's covered thanks to being left on a garage shelf for a few years surrounded by plant pots and garden tools).        None of those have had to go through the white-balance correction I normally have to do and the colours look almost right so I'm happy with that. Some of the blurriness might be down to lack of tripod and me holding the camera while using a slow shutter speed.
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Feb 22, 2016 10:01
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BULBASAUR posted:That's why I like weathering. I can screw up big time and still make it look good afterwards. Absolutely. I don't think the pure airbrush wizard van look really suits 40k. I really want to spend more time on weathering, all 30k stuff seems to be beaten to hell and it looks great. I've got a Vindicator on the painting table, might try to dirty it up a bit.
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Feb 22, 2016 10:11
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BULBASAUR posted:You make me want to paint my army differently. Thanks for the kind words  TTerrible posted:This thing is awesome. Is that a ton of salt weathering or did you use chipping fluid stuff? no salt at this stage, after base coating one of the first steps is sponging on rhinox hide using a thing of foam, to get that blasted, battered look. The rest is a poo poo ton of weathering powders, typhus corrosion + ryza rust. Secret Weapon miniatures (the powders) pretty much changed the way I paint models.
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Feb 22, 2016 11:10
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:I've given up trying to use my fancy lightbox I got for Christmas. It just really flattens out all the highlights and shading, so back to the cardboard box wrapped in foil for now. Real smooth Where's this one from? I want her to be friends with my Sigmar sisters
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Feb 22, 2016 11:44
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Thanks duders and Bulbasaur. That's Honour from guildball.
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Feb 22, 2016 12:53
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richyp posted:Didn't get any painting done this weekend as I had to do some decorating but I did finally put together that hobbyzone painting station. In hindsight I should've probably bought the medium size one not the large one as it's a bit too big to hide away easily. Forgot to post the actual painting tray.  It holds a decent amount of my paints, just wish I'd ordered 3 rows of dropper bottle size trays rather than 1 and 2xGW ones instead as I've got about 3 times the amount of VMC paints that I can't fit in there. At least it'll hold more than enough of the colours that I'm currently working with.
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Feb 22, 2016 15:17
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richyp posted:Forgot to post the actual painting tray. It'll hold even more than that at a push; 
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Feb 22, 2016 16:04
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LazyAngel posted:It'll hold even more than that at a push; I can't really overload it though as I have to quickly lift up onto a high shelf where it's out of reach of little and destructive hands. Need some colour scheme advice. Made a start on a Reaper Dwarf I got as a Christmas present my missus got me to try and convince me to pick up a brush, I got the face done and put down a few thin colours to try and come up with a scheme. I'm not sure that the olive/mustard colour really works with the turquoise but it could also be the green that breaks it. Also the legs and gloves in brown probably wont work well either. I'm out of ideas on colours to try as I don't want too many competing colours hence the muted olive colour to try and tie the browns and orange. Here he is so far, only the face is finished so I dont mind if the other colours have to go (I'd like to keep the Turquoise cape though as it works with the orange hair)  The finished face, which I'm really happy with 
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Feb 22, 2016 16:48
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Some WIP of my Wrath of Kings models: A Gutter Friar  Jelly, Jelly, Jelly...  Oh no! I've got crabs!  The photo isn't great, but I used my airbrush on Crabby and I think I got a good look. In retrospect, I wish I had used a smaller needle and got a tighter pattern, but for tabletop, I'm not going to complain.
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Feb 22, 2016 16:51
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Bistromatic posted:No ikea where in the EU you are put for northern Germany there's PK-Pro: http://www.pk-pro.de/BADGER-Spare-Parts I don't think this is the main Badger importer for Germany but I think Germany is served pretty well for Badger stuff because the importer is the owner's brother-in-law I think. crime fighting hog posted:I just wasn't thinning my paint enough! It was such a "duh" moment, I felt so stupid it took this much reading to figure out. This is such a big thing to 'click' onto but one of those things that once you realize it, so many things become easier. BULBASAUR posted:That's why I like weathering. I can screw up big time and still make it look good afterwards. quote:An airbrush is great, but personally I prefer combining an airbrush with a paint brush. I'm not a fan of an all airbrushed look. Going over your work afterwards with washes/filters and brushes helps ground it in a good way in my opinion.
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Feb 22, 2016 19:35
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So I use the Vallejo Black Lava paste a lot and my jar is almost empty. Before I buy a new one does anyone know whether the different earth pastes they make (like desert sand and red oxide and brown earth) are varying textures and degrees or grittiness or are they all the same except for color? The Vallejo site only has the same copy/pasted blurb for all of them and I can't tell from the pictures. Edit: \/\/\/ ah perfect, thanks JoshTheStampede fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Feb 22, 2016 |
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Feb 22, 2016 20:42
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Stolen from DakkaDakka or somewhere (apologies for unreadable text): I think it's: quote:White Pumice, Grey Pumice, Black Lava Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Feb 22, 2016 |
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Feb 22, 2016 20:44
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Great reference pic, Avenging Dentist.JoshTheStampede posted:So I use the Vallejo Black Lava paste a lot and my jar is almost empty. Before I buy a new one does anyone know whether the different earth pastes they make (like desert sand and red oxide and brown earth) are varying textures and degrees or grittiness or are they all the same except for color? The Vallejo site only has the same copy/pasted blurb for all of them and I can't tell from the pictures. I just started using these and I wasn't sure either, so I picked up both Black Lava and Brown Earth. There is definitely a texture difference as Brown Earth is more coarse. It isn't clear based on their naming scheme though, especially since the colors differ. I, also, just assumed they were the same thing with a different pigment but they are not.
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Feb 22, 2016 21:00
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berzerkmonkey posted:Some WIP of my Wrath of Kings models: Great job on your Reaver. I delayed painting that one for months as it was so intimidating.
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Feb 22, 2016 21:05
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Great job on your Reaver. I delayed painting that one for months as it was so intimidating. Thank you! I was putting it off as well, but the airbrush made quick work of it - airbrush VGC Bleached Bone base, brown wash, Bleached Bone on the raised areas of the underside of the model, VGC Bloody Red on the upper side. The longest part was waiting for the wash to dry - I think the airbrushing took all of 20 minutes. I'm kind of excited to do the Orsund Reaver (the octopus) now. As an aside, if anyone is looking for some Wrath of Kings Nasir or Hadross boxes, hit me up - I've got extras. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Feb 22, 2016 |
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Feb 22, 2016 21:15
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Noooooo. loving masking fluid. I must have missed a bit of release agent before priming. At least it's vaguely hidden, but fixing this is going to be a pain. 
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Feb 22, 2016 21:44
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My first miniature in a few years, and I'm hitting the same block I always do: I feel as though I need to learn techniques, rather than basics - but I don't know HOW to improve:
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Feb 22, 2016 22:13
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I was messing around on the same tank today and tried taping off certain parts and toying with patterns. Even after glosscoating before putting on the tape, the tape still peeled some of the paint off with it, no matter how gentle I was. I'm using the Tamiya painter's tape, really narrow -is there something better to use? Kinda messes things up but thankfully I was just practicing.
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Feb 22, 2016 22:46
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No suggestions on the dwarf colours? Just finished up an old Line Kazak model I attempted many moons ago didn't bother stripping just repainted over so some of the paint's a bit thicker in places, especially the face.  A whole lot of green, grey and brown
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Feb 22, 2016 23:05
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nesbit37 posted:Great reference pic, Avenging Dentist. Wait, brown is more coarse than black lava? The picture AD posted seems to show the opposite.
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Feb 23, 2016 00:19
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richyp posted:No suggestions on the dwarf colours? Dwarf looks fine, man. If you really don't like the colors, then the green is probably the bigger culprit. Try a really desaturated mauve sort color going colder instead of warmer. Lay down some color swatches on a scrap piece of paper and see what works. Kazak looks boss like everything else you do. Gareth Gobulcoque fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Feb 23, 2016 |
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Feb 23, 2016 00:19
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JoshTheStampede posted:Wait, brown is more coarse than black lava? The picture AD posted seems to show the opposite. Maybe I had that backwards, will have to double check.
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Feb 23, 2016 00:23
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crime fighting hog posted:I was messing around on the same tank today and tried taping off certain parts and toying with patterns. Even after glosscoating before putting on the tape, the tape still peeled some of the paint off with it, no matter how gentle I was. I find that really weird, I use Tamiya Painter's too. What are you using to prime over plastic?
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Feb 23, 2016 00:24
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JoshTheStampede posted:Wait, brown is more coarse than black lava? The picture AD posted seems to show the opposite. For what it's worth, I have both Black Lava and Dark Earth, and they look like the picture shows.
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Feb 23, 2016 00:24
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crime fighting hog posted:I was messing around on the same tank today and tried taping off certain parts and toying with patterns. Even after glosscoating before putting on the tape, the tape still peeled some of the paint off with it, no matter how gentle I was. If you prime that should help but as it's a practice model you don't necessarily have to do that. Normally you would. The Tamiya tape is pretty low tack but you can stick it to your shirt a couple of times to remove some of the stickiness.
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Feb 23, 2016 00:29
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Yeast posted:I find that really weird, I use Tamiya Painter's too. What are you using to prime over plastic? krushgroove posted:If you prime that should help but as it's a practice model you don't necessarily have to do that. Normally you would. The Tamiya tape is pretty low tack but you can stick it to your shirt a couple of times to remove some of the stickiness. Rustoleum's Painter's Touch primer. Usually works really well, but the top layer of paint was still coming off. Wish I had taken a picture. In the tape's defense (I can't believe I just typed that) perhaps the paint wasn't 100 percent dry when I laid it down, but it felt dry.
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Feb 23, 2016 01:02
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 WIP on my Kingdom Death Dragon Sacrifice Pinup. Currently finished my Escher gang and just needs varnishing, so I started the pinup model tonight.
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Feb 23, 2016 01:20
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Arrggghhhh why the poo poo do sculptors insist on sculpting irises. Stop it assholes. It makes the difficult job of doing eyes impossible because that poo poo ain't gonna cast right.
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Feb 23, 2016 01:35
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Arrggghhhh why the poo poo do sculptors insist on sculpting irises. Stop it assholes. It makes the difficult job of doing eyes impossible because that poo poo ain't gonna cast right. Which company is mad enough to be doing that on a small scale?
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Feb 23, 2016 01:40
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I've gotten them from Dark Sword and now Steamforged. I'm worried it's a trend. edit: With the one from DSM I talked to the studio painter about it, and she just shellacked them over with a couple coats of gloss varnish and drew her own, which is cool if not adding a degree of difficulty. Tower from Guildball has his iris sticking out the other way though like they're on eye stalks. Gareth Gobulcoque fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Feb 23, 2016 |
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Feb 23, 2016 01:42
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Yeah that is crazy, also it means you can't decide which way they are looking.
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Feb 23, 2016 02:49
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JoshTheStampede posted:Yeah that is crazy, also it means you can't decide which way they are looking. Why not both ways?
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Feb 23, 2016 03:01
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dr_ether posted:
Is that scale 75? In pictures it has this weird chalky finish, probably from all the matting agent. Does it have that same effect outside of pictures? Not knocking your work though, rock solid so far as always. It's just a minor thing, that keeps me on the fence from ordering a set.
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Feb 23, 2016 03:14
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dr_ether posted:Which company is mad enough to be doing that on a small scale? Soda pop does this with the Super Dungeon Explore models, only at random. Which is even more annoying, since painting the eyes on chibi minis is half the fun.
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Feb 23, 2016 03:15
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Cranked out a quick model for Frostgrave today (using an assortment of Malifaux models, this one's The Captain from the Ironsides box). Not happy with how the lighting and camera messed with the colors, but there's only so much photoshop can do to fix that when you're already working from quick phone snaps. Also some rear end in a top hat (me about six months ago) decided that it would be a great idea to prime the drat thing before dealing with mold lines or filling gaps, so I got to shave some of the former off in the middle of painting, and say "gently caress it!" to the latter.  Spent basically no time whatsoever on the steel, the face of that hammer and the jetpack's tanks need much nicer blends than they've got, but I had a very dark silver and a gently caress-off bright one, and not a lot of time, so that's that.
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Feb 23, 2016 06:27
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