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rally posted:Now I'm imagining all the Chinese grinding and cutoff wheels have a bunch of asbestos in them. Chalk it up to poo poo I've inhaled massive amounts of asbestos from I guess. Bingo! Asbestos still ain't even banned in the US, stuff like DAP crack shot spackling paste sill contains it, along with who knows what else. In fact, Home depot keeps deleting my question every time I ask about it on the product page 
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Feb 19, 2016 13:12
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If they're not denying its in there assume the worst.
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Feb 19, 2016 13:22
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the spyder posted:Kastein, what's the name of the abrasive supply company you've posted in the past? I need to order some cup brushes. It wasn't lehigh but I'll have to give them a shot, I'm running low. The company I normally order from is Heleta, FYI. Some cutoff wheels have asbestos or another cancer causing material in them - for example the harbor freight ones! I would rather not think about how many of those I burned through with no respirator or dust mask before noticing the cancer warning and switching brands. Really though, all of the abrasives and poo poo like that are probably NOT something you want in your lungs, so we're comparing hitler to stalin and pol pot here. Non-soluble mineral fibers of any kind and fine abrasive dusts of any kind are very very high on the list of things to keep out of your lungs. There's a growing body of evidence that indicates that even occupational installers of fiberglas may be at heightened risk of certain cancers, and fine abrasive silicate dusts cause silicosis, which is one reason many abrasives are made from alumina instead*. I'm not saying to use whatever nasty lovely cutoff wheels and grinding discs you want, I recommend using the ones that aren't known to cause cancer YET, but everyone should be wearing some sort of a respirator while using them. I recommend the 3M 6000/7000 series, they're fairly comfortable and filter really well, you can get N95 and P100 filter elements for them. I never used to wear any sort of breathing apparatus while cutting/grinding till like a year ago, when I wised up a bit. It's also very wise to wear some sort of a particulates/metal vapors filter while welding if you don't want to suffer from manganism, lung cancer, and/or murder your kidneys and liver with heavy metals. PS don't buy/use cadplate bolts and don't weld on cadplate or chromate plated bolts if you like your organs functioning how they do now. * I think alumina also works better, but not sure. And don't expect alumina to not be on the cancertastic list in 30 years.
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Feb 19, 2016 15:56
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I need to cut away some badly mangled stamped steel radiator supports. What is the cheapest way to go about it? Harbor freight reciprocating saw? What blades?
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Feb 20, 2016 01:36
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Depends on if you want the edges to be cut nicely. If yes, I usually find an angle grinder and some non-carcinogenic cutoff wheels is the cheapest and easiest/best cut. I leave the sawzall for wholesale destruction and roughcutting when dealing with sheetmetal.
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Feb 20, 2016 01:48
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With how cheap everything is on Lehigh abrasives, I use Sait grinding wheels, Metabo Slicer cutoff discs and house brand flap discs/coated abrasives. Life is way too short to deal with lovely consumables. e: Zirconia Alumina, which is usually blue on coated abrasives, is the poo poo. I don't know how horrible the stuff is for you, but it makes a mean flap disc. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Feb 20, 2016 |
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Feb 20, 2016 04:55
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Maybe I just didn't search well enough but I didn't see roloc discs. Do any of you guys have a place that you get good deals? When I was at the dealership they were given to me in handfulls for free. Now I need them still but don't wanna buy the HF ones because they are garbage. Anyone have a good online source to get them in bulk???
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Feb 21, 2016 19:19
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SouthsideSaint posted:Maybe I just didn't search well enough but I didn't see roloc discs. Do any of you guys have a place that you get good deals? When I was at the dealership they were given to me in handfulls for free. Now I need them still but don't wanna buy the HF ones because they are garbage. Anyone have a good online source to get them in bulk??? I usually wait until Zoro/Enco has a 30% off sale and stock up on 3M.
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Feb 21, 2016 20:38
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the spyder posted:I usually wait until Zoro/Enco has a 30% off sale and stock up on 3M. Ditto. You just missed a 30% of ENCO sale.
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Feb 22, 2016 03:33
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What are good drill bits for drilling through steel? I Stripped a driveshaft bolt in my car  Would really help if these were readily available at Home Depot or other brick and mortar type store. Also, what would be a good lubricant to use on the drill bits? Any advice helps...never had to drill through steel before.
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Feb 23, 2016 02:36
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Marauder Stig posted:What are good drill bits for drilling through steel? I Stripped a driveshaft bolt in my car What kind of driveshaft are you dealing with? If it's held on with a few bolts and you can break loose all but one you can try grinding off the head of the bolt. Really depends on the setup though.
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Feb 23, 2016 02:56
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Marauder Stig posted:What are good drill bits for drilling through steel? I Stripped a driveshaft bolt in my car stripped or snapped off? If its just stripped you can try heating the piss out of it (assuming theres no rubber around) and vice grips. You can try getting a bolt extractor bit on it as well if you can find a small enough one.
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Feb 23, 2016 03:10
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Marauder Stig posted:What are good drill bits for drilling through steel? I Stripped a driveshaft bolt in my car I have a set of Irwin 8% cobalt drill bits that people who borrow from me say is the best drill bit set they've ever used. I got them from a Mac Tools distributor when I inquired about a set of Mac drill bits. He told me don't bother with Mac stuff, get the Irwin set. I trusted him, especially since his living is made on selling Mac tools and hes telling me not to bother with that. http://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bits/29-piece-cobalt-m-42-metal-index-drill-bit-set
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Feb 23, 2016 04:29
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Marauder Stig posted:What are good drill bits for drilling through steel? I Stripped a driveshaft bolt in my car These: http://www.amazon.com/Tools-Cobalt-64-Inch-Assortment-30520/dp/B0002NYBJG And this: http://www.amazon.com/Forney-20857-Cutting-Industrial-4-Ounces/dp/B003X3ZKXI
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Feb 23, 2016 06:42
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the spyder posted:These: http://www.amazon.com/Tools-Cobalt-64-Inch-Assortment-30520/dp/B0002NYBJG Yeah, if you need to drill out the bolt, use lefty bits like these. Get a centerpunch too. Punch the bolt, then start with a small lefty bit. If that drills in/through (i.e., don't drill through if you will damage something behind the bolt tip) without freeing the bolt, move up a size and drill again. Rinse repeat. Do not use an "EZOut" or extractor bit.
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Feb 23, 2016 21:47
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How much will I regret returning this http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCE2-15-Amp-10-inch-Compound/dp/B000V5Z6RG And getting this http://m.harborfreight.com/power-tools/miter-saws/12-in-double-bevel-sliding-compound-miter-saw-with-laser-guide-system-61969.html The Hf saw is only a few bucks more with coupon and with a extra inch of blade plus the sliding, I should be able to do more with it.
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Feb 23, 2016 23:30
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kmcormick9 posted:How much will I regret returning this I have the HF one. It was ok for building a shed. Totally infuriating for cutting window casing and baseboard trim. The degree markings are totally innaccurate, and there's like 10-15 degrees of slop in the 45 and 90 lock-ins.
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Feb 24, 2016 00:07
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kmcormick9 posted:How much will I regret returning this Don't do it. You can still do a lot with a 10", even if it doesn't slide.
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Feb 24, 2016 00:43
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I have had good luck with: Walter SST Drill bits Rapid Tap
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Feb 24, 2016 01:17
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Was gonna post this in the Chat thread but it's in full sadbrain E/N mode so: Today I went over to the mechanic's yard at work and asked to borrow a grease gun under various workplace pretenses (I actually needed to grease the new steering components in my Jeep). All of their manual pump units happened to be empty at the moment so the dude gave me their Milwaukee M18 grease gun and I spent a blissful ten minutes greasing every zerk on the Jeep... goddamn I want an electric gun now. That thing is the poo poo! Super intuitive; I just grabbed it out of it's case and squeezed the first trigger I could find. Great bit of equipment.
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Feb 24, 2016 06:19
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Electric grease guns are amazing when you have a ton of fittings that aren't in a shop. I got my dad an 18v Lincoln PoweLuber with a shoulder strap a few years back. That thing with this fitting http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H7LPKKU/ and hanging over the manure pit to fill the terribly relocated grease fittings on the manure pump isn't so bad.
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Feb 24, 2016 18:10
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You guys are right about cobalt bits. Thanks! To those who asked, I got the head off the bolt with a hacksaw and the driveshaft was fully out of the way before I posted.
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Feb 24, 2016 18:59
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I'm setting aside cash for a a set of wheels and winter tires for my 2007 Odyssey. This is our first car with TPMS and apparently there is nothing built into the vehicle to tell it the sensors changed. I've had this thing http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008SCWXN4 in my Amazon wishlist for a while. Does anyone have a better suggestion at a similar price?
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Feb 24, 2016 23:07
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thebigcow posted:Electric grease guns are amazing when you have a ton of fittings that aren't in a shop. I got my dad an 18v Lincoln PoweLuber with a shoulder strap a few years back. That thing with this fitting http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H7LPKKU/ and hanging over the manure pit to fill the terribly relocated grease fittings on the manure pump isn't so bad. Those fittings are absolutely wonderful. I always had pistol grip grease guns so I could lean on the fitting with one hand, but pistol grip guns are terrible on tight or old fittings. Those fittings let me use good old lever guns again, which is great.
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Feb 24, 2016 23:19
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thebigcow posted:I'm setting aside cash for a a set of wheels and winter tires for my 2007 Odyssey. This is our first car with TPMS and apparently there is nothing built into the vehicle to tell it the sensors changed. Having not used either, I'd probably recommend http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AERMVYC instead. Assuming it comes with the OBD2 cable, it's going to be a much more versatile tool. We use the Schrader 21230 or the Bartec 300 Pro's at work for doing all the relearns and reprograms, but they're quite a lot more expensive. That ATEQ unit is useful basically only for swapping between two sets of tires, and on a single vehicle. Also note that you can also clone the sensor ID's from one set to the other set, and not have to worry about doing a relearn every time you swap. Only works if you can use the EZ-sensors instead of OEM though, and I think Odyssey's might be the biggest pain in the dick cars wrt the TPMS system that I have to deal with on a regular basis. Check with a good tire shop in your area and see if they can/will clone a set of sensors for you.
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Feb 25, 2016 00:10
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ive got a cheap pneumatic grease gun- Thing will shoot a jet of grease across the workshop if you aim it right and the tips empty!
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Feb 25, 2016 04:00
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Ferremit posted:ive got a cheap pneumatic grease gun- Thing will shoot a jet of grease across the workshop if you aim it right and the tips empty! I bet it will! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbFKSy9oA0A
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Feb 25, 2016 10:13
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wallaka posted:I bet it will! ahahaha, pictured at 3:48: me every loving time I have to use a goddamned grease gun
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Feb 25, 2016 19:53
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wallaka posted:I bet it will! "Fabricobbled" is my new favorite word.
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Feb 26, 2016 01:33
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Treated myself and ordered a set of X beam flex head ratcheting wrenches today by Gearwrench  I cant wait to see how they stack up to my coworkers matco ones.
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Feb 26, 2016 03:13
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Downside to the X-Beam ones is they make it a lot easier to apply a lot more force; ie breakin' poo poo and twisting off heads. 
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Feb 26, 2016 06:22
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Splizwarf posted:Downside to the X-Beam ones is they make it a lot easier to apply a lot more force; ie breakin' poo poo and twisting off heads. I got a some X-beam xl ones - they're even longer - so you can twist the heads off twice as easy! I like them a lot. Break bolts loose easy just by bapping it with my palm.
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Feb 27, 2016 14:30
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Also finally started my Grey Pnematic game by loving up and ordering 12 point semi deep 3/8 instead of 6 by accident. Decided to keep em and order the right ones. I suppose i should have a set of 12 points you never know.
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Feb 27, 2016 22:26
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Wait, is semi-deep a real size now? I mean, I have wished for a midsize sometimes but ugh, another standard.
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Feb 27, 2016 23:02
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Splizwarf posted:Wait, is semi-deep a real size now? I mean, I have wished for a midsize sometimes but ugh, another standard. semi deep is THE size
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Feb 27, 2016 23:28
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Preoptopus posted:semi deep is THE size Quoted for truth. I bought the six point set of 3/8 metric and they are now my go to 3/8 set. Actually just bought the HF axel nut set. All reviews are good and it goes up to 38mm.
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Feb 27, 2016 23:34
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Preoptopus posted:Also finally started my Grey Pnematic game by loving up and ordering 12 point semi deep 3/8 instead of 6 by accident. Decided to keep em and order the right ones. I suppose i should have a set of 12 points you never know. I almost did the same thing a couple of times. I might eventually get some of the 12pt sets too, but I have some old ones if I need them for any reason so it's not exactly a high priority for me.
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Feb 27, 2016 23:48
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Sorry for posting twice (also in DIY), but I'm pretty excited about this: So this followed me home.......  It's a South Bend C9-10JR, missing a bunch of the threading gears. Best build date I can figure from online sources using the serial number is 1946. Old school machinist friend checked it over including runout on the spindle bearing and said "let's go talk about this" so he could excitedly tell me that everything was better than he would have expected (but still no guarantees) away from the seller. Got it at at a good price and even pried the extra chuck out of his hands (he wanted to sell it with one or the other and I told him that's a deal breaker and by the way most of the threading gears are missing I need $200 off). Ways are filthy but look largely undamaged. Entire machine is covered in oil, which is a good thing since most of the paint is gone. Reverse does not work, but the new-ish Dayton motor indicates it should. So it's either miswired or the switch is bad. This isn't a terribly desirable model. No transmission, no power cross feed. But it's baby's first very own spinny thing (finally). Current plan is to read, read, read and then set it up and lube it, test to make sure it's worth the work then tear it back down to clean it up and paint it. I'll be making obscure rover parts in no time. Kegorator is right next to it so I can keep things authentic.
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Feb 29, 2016 06:14
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I think this has been asked before, but could anyone recommend a good pair of leather work boots? Should I be looking at Redwings? My last pair of wolverines were a huge steaming disappointment, so I'm not wasting money there again.
Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 14:27 on Feb 29, 2016 |
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Feb 29, 2016 09:34
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OSU_Matthew posted:I think this has been asked before, but could anyone recommend a good pair of leather work boots? Should I be looking at Redwings? My last pair of wolverines were a huge steaming disappointment, so I'm not wasting money there again. It has and the Motronic and Kastein approved choice is Carolina.
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Feb 29, 2016 17:05
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