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kimbo305 posted:On a scale of 1-10, what shape would you rate these as? I'd be uncomfortable if I saw pitting and chips like that on pistons going back into a motor. Is the shape of the rotor surface significantly less important compared to the face and skirts of a piston? I'm not the spyder, but I'll chip in. The pitting on the faces that you're seeing is, to me anyway, about a 4 on one rotor and a 6 on the other - if they were 83-85 12A rotors I'd suck it up and use them because the rotors are NLA, but 13B rotors I'd replace unless I was on a severe budget. The combustion face isn't ridiculously critical and on a lot of rotors the recess is just rough cast iron anyway, but I'd still prefer not to. Anything severe on the sides will almost always drop it down to a 1; the sides are sliding surfaces and actually important. Similarly, the apex and side seal grooves being screwed up will drop them down to at best a 3 - the apex seal grooves can be machined and 3mm apex seals fitted for some applications, and if you're really lucky you can clean side seal grooves, but that's getting to some serious turd polishing. *quickedit* When I was doing engines on my dad's EProd car, I actually had a triage system for boneyard 12A cores. Unfortunately I didn't keep very good records, and he tried building a couple engines out of what he thought were good parts but didn't actually go together. So much for that pile of spares. I'm keeping better records when I get back into serious engine programs. mekilljoydammit fucked around with this message at 14:51 on Feb 15, 2016 |
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Feb 15, 2016 14:44
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the spyder posted:I also stopped by a local dealer to pick up some parts. He was able to find me NOS caps for the MS01s wheels, $36/each from Mazda. Also your shop is awesome and I'm super jealous of your motivation, godspeed!
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Feb 15, 2016 17:21
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leica posted:Would you be willing to part with an ornament? My son is a gear head and he would love one of those. If not spyder I am certain that McTinkerson can get you a ruined rotor to give to your son. Dunno what the shipping is like but it'd be in CAD$ which should help at least.
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Feb 16, 2016 05:26
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leica posted:Would you be willing to part with an ornament? My son is a gear head and he would love one of those. I will check Friday with Rob and see what we can dig up.
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Feb 16, 2016 18:56
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mekilljoydammit posted:I'm not the spyder, but I'll chip in. The pitting on the faces that you're seeing is, to me anyway, about a 4 on one rotor and a 6 on the other - if they were 83-85 12A rotors I'd suck it up and use them because the rotors are NLA, but 13B rotors I'd replace unless I was on a severe budget. The combustion face isn't ridiculously critical and on a lot of rotors the recess is just rough cast iron anyway, but I'd still prefer not to. Anything severe on the sides will almost always drop it down to a 1; the sides are sliding surfaces and actually important. Similarly, the apex and side seal grooves being screwed up will drop them down to at best a 3 - the apex seal grooves can be machined and 3mm apex seals fitted for some applications, and if you're really lucky you can clean side seal grooves, but that's getting to some serious turd polishing. I would agree with your assessment. These are a 3-4 at best if all the side seals come out and there's enough material to machine the apex seals to 3mm. If not, these are wall art. Thankfully I have a spare set of rotors from a different motor.
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Feb 16, 2016 18:58
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Is it not possible to weld + grind rotors? Or is it just not financially worth it?
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Feb 16, 2016 19:05
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ratbert90 posted:Is it not possible to weld + grind rotors? Or is it just not financially worth it? They're cast iron, and the curvature on the flanks is, IIRC, a bit more complicated than it looks - so you'd have to have someone really good at welding cast iron, and come up with a specialized grinder. Theoretically possible, but right now, it's really not worth it. Of course, if anyone wants to start doing castings (ideally, weight optimized ones) that don't originate from Mazda, that'd be cool.
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Feb 16, 2016 19:20
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ratbert90 posted:Is it not possible to weld + grind rotors? Or is it just not financially worth it? A better question is, would you grind or weld a piston as part of a overhaul? The rotating assemblies are machine balanced and outside of race engines, you rarely see machined/ground/rebalanced assemblies. All rotors have weight codes stamped on them and as long as they match in both series and weight (and are verified by a scale), you can swap them. Just like someone did in this motor.
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Feb 16, 2016 20:05
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the spyder posted:A better question is, would you grind or weld a piston as part of a overhaul? The rotating assemblies are machine balanced and outside of race engines, you rarely see machined/ground/rebalanced assemblies. All rotors have weight codes stamped on them and as long as they match in both series and weight (and are verified by a scale), you can swap them. Just like someone did in this motor. Fair enough. I was talking about reconditioning them not because they were mismatched, but because of the pitting/wear on them, as from what I remember 12A stuff is getting pretty rare. Or is that not the rotors and just the housings?
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Feb 16, 2016 22:30
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ratbert90 posted:Fair enough. I was talking about reconditioning them not because they were mismatched, but because of the pitting/wear on them, as from what I remember 12A stuff is getting pretty rare. Or is that not the rotors and just the housings? Housings are easy - a lot of the 13B housings fail by having the chrome flake off towards the edge. Well, since 12A housings are narrower than 13B housings by 10mm, just machine 5mm off each side of the 13B housings and machine o-ring grooves (and machine off where it says "13B") Voila. Rotors are the issue, yeah. I still have a small pile of usable ones, but there's no source for new ones - I think even a lot of big shops are out. More or less all the top level roadrace guys moved away from 12As due to parts availability. I just need to get to doing cast iron instead of just aluminum and problem solved. 
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Feb 16, 2016 22:48
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All right, I'm finally getting over this sinus infection. Yesterday was my first day at work and I crashed HARD when I got home. Pretty much passed out. It was a long day and I pushed myself too hard. Today was 10x better. So I spent an hour playing in the shop tonight. I decided to start with a small (short) project. Clamp rack! Design is simple, using some left over 3/4 plywood. Sorry, I apparently lost a few pictures- but you get the general idea.     Next up: 12" Disc Sander. I bought this several years ago from a local school that closed its shop. It's an older Rockwell/Delta 1hp 3ph 12" sander. From the sawdust, it looks like it was mainly used in the wood shop. I'm planning on dedicating it to metal working. It will be ran off a Teco FM50 VFD. This allows me to run a 1hp, 220v Three phase motor on 220v Single Phase with the added benefit of variable speed.   Now it's going to need some wiring love. I won't be keeping the starter (not needed) and I'm hoping to reuse the switch. After pulling the switch, I'm super happy I never tried to plug this in.   Here's the FM50 and 12" 60grit Zirconium Aluminum Oxide sanding disc.  Tomorrow I'll work on the wiring and hopefully get it going. Oh and more parts showed up. These are the rear caliper brackets for my "big" brakes. Can't wait to install these.  
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Feb 18, 2016 08:12
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Had the house to myself tonight, which means more shop time! Rob loaned me a Rx-8 oil filter pedestal to test fit and to my surprise, it cleared everything. I'll have to do some machining to get the ports to line up and add some external oiling, but it saves me having to run a oil filter relocation kit.  It's a tight fit. (Also trimmed the stock heater core hose. Another item off the list.)  Next up I test wired the VFD on the 12" Disc sander.  Works great! Not sure how I'm going to mount it, but I'm still waiting on a few electronic bits.  Since I had some time, I started cleaning the disc surface and table from the surface rust. A little WD40 and some red scotchbrite- looking good. I also cleaned and greased the table mounts.  And obviously I installed the disc. Screwed it up too- you should always slide the still covered disc into the dust shield, uncover the top half, apply with a rubber mallet. Rotate the disc and uncover the rest. I forgot to insert the bottom half into the dust shield. Que 5 minutes of me trying to flex the paper up and into the shield. Thankfully it worked and with no ripples.  It happily squared up the end of this stock, removing just over an 1/8th in a few seconds with medium pressure.  I'm thinking of mounting the VFD and controls up top. I'm not a fan of reaching under the table to switch the machine on/off as the stand for the machine is fairly short.  I also spent a few minute sorting end mills. I'm hoping to get a better idea of what's here and what's missing from our machinist buddy, as this 20B project is going to require some manual machining. Should be fun.  On a side note, do NOT use Cree LED's for your sand blasting cabinet... Fail.  I did get some car work done, mainly prep for getting the white 94 back together, but I was so frustrated by the fuel rails/injectors that I didn't take any pictures. Oh well, tomorrow I'm hoping to get the motor in the car. We'll see if I have enough energy. I'm only at 1/3 strength still. the spyder fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Feb 20, 2016 |
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Feb 20, 2016 08:04
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stupid question... how are you hoping to change that oil filter in that location? It looks like you could get it in there, sure, but removing the filter looks to be impossible once it's on.
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Feb 20, 2016 13:28
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Time for some strip LEDs in the cabinet! Make them wrap all the way around, high and low!
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Feb 20, 2016 14:40
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Yikes... at this point I'd just say to hell with it and put a remote filter on - little block in that position to connect the two ports, ideally with gauge ports and an AN fitting to accept oil from the remote filter, boom, done, no PITA oil filter access.
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Feb 20, 2016 16:12
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BloodBag posted:stupid question... how are you hoping to change that oil filter in that location? It looks like you could get it in there, sure, but removing the filter looks to be impossible once it's on. That's a problem for future-Spyder.
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Feb 20, 2016 18:18
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A Mazda with a hard to change oil filter? Why I never.
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Feb 20, 2016 18:59
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mekilljoydammit posted:Yikes... at this point I'd just say to hell with it and put a remote filter on - little block in that position to connect the two ports, ideally with gauge ports and an AN fitting to accept oil from the remote filter, boom, done, no PITA oil filter access. the spyder posted:I'll have to do some machining to get the ports to line up and add some external oiling, but it saves me having to run a oil filter relocation kit. That'd be a relocation kit.
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Feb 20, 2016 19:34
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Seat Safety Switch posted:A Mazda with a hard to change oil filter? Why I never. They must have gotten better as both the 2 and 3 have the filter on the bottom within a foot or so of the drain plug.
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Feb 20, 2016 20:02
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Seat Safety Switch posted:A Mazda with a hard to change oil filter? Why I never. I had to get on top of the motor and contort my arm under the intake manifold to change the filter on my BG Protege. Kind of a pain in the dick, but not horrible.
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Feb 20, 2016 22:04
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Hey spyder, what are your thoughts on a 13b-rew swap in an rx-8? I see shells go for like 2k and I feel tempted.
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Feb 21, 2016 07:33
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SpellEdge posted:Hey spyder, what are your thoughts on a 13b-rew swap in an rx-8? I see shells go for like 2k and I feel tempted. I believe we had this discussion with someone else on recent pages, actually, and the answer was "if you like how it looks, yes, do the thing" Make sure you get a freshly rebuilt engine to drop in though.
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Feb 21, 2016 10:43
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Doesn't tach on those come from the CAS, which would be a bitch to wire up on any engine swap? And the gauge cluster on the RX8 is quite pretty as it is, a new gauge may ruin that. I'm researching a 1UZ/3UZ swap into a RX8 and the drat tachometer is a huge pain in my rear end. Some people are double ECU-ing their swaps and running a second trigger wheel just for the tach. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Feb 22, 2016 |
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Feb 22, 2016 01:17
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That's pretty dumb, tbh. Given the specs (sensor type, number of teeth on wheel) Kastein or I could easily whip up a little converter board to provide the tach with whatever signal it's expecting from whatever input signal you have (presumably 1 pulse/rev) It's all just software  E: Did some quick research, the reason people are using doubled-up ECUs has nothing to do with the actual tach signal being weird and everything to do with the cluster being CANBUS driven from the stock ECU (along with, apparently, the power steering system), so you need the stock ECU and its friends to send the right CAN signals to the cluster. Which makes more sense, as just adapting the signals between two sensor types should be relatively easy. You could totally still use a VR sensor simulator board to avoid having to double up on VR sensors and toothed wheels, though. There also appear to be some aftermarket boards that can spit the required CAN information at the tach/cluster, but it appears that in order to use those you have to replace the power steering system with one that doesn't rely on the stock RX-8 ECU to operate. literally a fish fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Feb 22, 2016 |
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Feb 22, 2016 02:03
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Seat Safety Switch posted:A Mazda with a hard to change oil filter? Why I never.  FBs have easily accessible filters  Unless you still have the beehive oil cooler, in which case it's probably already leaking.
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Feb 22, 2016 05:18
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BloodBag posted:stupid question... how are you hoping to change that oil filter in that location? It looks like you could get it in there, sure, but removing the filter looks to be impossible once it's on. Despite the pictures, I can easily reach the filter, fit my hand around it and unscrew it with no clearance issues. There's only a 1/4 or so between the heater core line and the back side of the filter, but it's not an issue. I would say it's easier then a Rx-8 or FD. Those always end up with shredded arms/bruised fingers. Thanks Mazda! Edit: 
the spyder fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Feb 24, 2016 |
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Feb 22, 2016 20:48
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Slowly getting energy back. Decided to start working on the White 94 and get it out of here. I thought I had all the parts, but I'm missing 3ft of 8mm hose. Resealed the oil pan. Found three loose and 1 completely missing bolt on the turbos. (We never removed them...)    I also got the fuel injectors + rails reassembled and installed.  Next up was the dreaded rats nest.     This took ~ 3 hours. Not including the three hours of testing and reassembling the solenoids.   This weekend I was way down on energy and a few friends came over to use the shop. First up was Ben's FC. It developed a nasty exhaust leak. We thought it was the header gasket that failed and removed the header. On a whim, Ben removed the header wrap. Turns out it the header was cracked...     This is mild steel- but I can't believe it deformed from a hose clamp. We're assuming the guy we got it from had a stuck injector or something that cooked the tubing.  Since I was sick, it got sent to another friends to weld up... it came back like this... I can't even. It's being fixed tonight.   After Ben's car was off the lift, they started replacing the turbo on Derek's Turbo II. BNR Stage III. Good for 325hp using the stock hot side with an upgraded set of wheels. Next up is tuning.         
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Feb 24, 2016 00:42
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Is the rag in the funnel for simple filtration?
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Feb 24, 2016 00:47
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Looks like they're reusing coolant so i'd assume so. Ive done it before when ive had to dump 13L of almost brand new coolant out of the cruiser to fix something and didnt want to shell out $100 odd for more coolant.
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Feb 24, 2016 01:00
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Shoulda used the coffee filters out there lol.
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Feb 24, 2016 04:13
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You mentioned earlier that your 3-rotor swap would need a shallow pan: the spyder posted:First step: FD (13B-REW) front cover and a 3/4" oil pan. This gave me an extra 1/4" of drop to work with.
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Feb 24, 2016 04:15
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Astonishing Wang posted:Is the rag in the funnel for simple filtration? Mainly to catch a few bugs that landed in it. The coolants only a few months old, no reason to replace it.
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Feb 24, 2016 07:03
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kimbo305 posted:You mentioned earlier that your 3-rotor swap would need a shallow pan: So the oil pan has now morphed in to some glorious two-piece CNC'd unit with integrated sump. I met with our machinist buddy and he's decided he really wants to make it trick. I'll get a picture of the drawing posted up at some point here. I'm going to end up completely removing the front cross member to allow for more oil capacity. You will have to wait and see how I replace it, haha.
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Feb 24, 2016 07:08
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the spyder posted:Next up was the dreaded rats nest. I thought that was only posted for comedy on the internet. 
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Feb 24, 2016 14:24
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Larrymer posted:I thought that was only posted for comedy on the internet. Oh, it's comedy all right.
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Feb 24, 2016 20:33
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And people ask me why I stick to my FBs and stuff even though FD prices keep coming down. 
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Feb 24, 2016 21:17
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You can just replace all that nonsense with a single modern twin-scroll turbo and achieve the same goal, though. A similar level of vacuum fuckery is present in the FD's contemporary, the Subaru Legacy B4 that you guys didn't get (that i have one of) It has an entire vacuum solenoid/restrictor pill/check valve box dealio called the "Black Box Of Death" 
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Feb 25, 2016 02:07
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literally a fish posted:You can just replace all that nonsense with a single modern twin-scroll turbo and achieve the same goal, though. A similar level of vacuum fuckery is present in the FD's contemporary, the Subaru Legacy B4 that you guys didn't get (that i have one of) Someone made something worse than an automatic transmission's valve body?
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Feb 25, 2016 08:02
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EightBit posted:Someone made something worse than an automatic transmission's valve body?   click for big. At least it uses nice multi-vacuum connectors... 
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Feb 25, 2016 12:18
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I was about to post these pictures, but with  as a description.
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Feb 25, 2016 12:47
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