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Time for an all the oils change for my R. For the engine i'll grab a bosch filter off amazon and 2 jugs of rotella (5.8L yo). Whats everyone's preferred gear oil and weight for both engine, trans and rear diff? Edit: will these crush washers work? http://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Motorcyc...mm+crush+washer toplitzin fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Feb 8, 2016 |
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Feb 8, 2016 15:01
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Not an R, but my 2.5T gets Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. None of the others really apply since it's FWD AT.
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Feb 8, 2016 17:53
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Apparently my car was having two separate problems causing various misfires. The misfiring and backfiring at idle was explained by the ignition coil, now replaced with IPD's MSD kit, which is held on with twisted wire after I managed to ruin my ignition coil bracket because their instructions say to use a bit that's too large. Of course I pay $120 and a frustrating afternoon trying to fix it with the few of my tools that aren't missing, only to find it still misfires at WOT. Error is P0302, just like it was the first time this happened (and didn't reoccur until now) in December, before I got rear-ended. 
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Feb 8, 2016 20:40
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I have an 06 R and I use 5w30 most of the year (don't live in a super hot location) and being synthetic I don't see a need for 0w30 even though it gets pretty cold here I keep the car garaged. I typically use amsoil XL extended performance (red cap) or if I can't get it, Mobil 1. Trans is synthetic...forget the number, but the same as Toyota IV Angle gear and Diff are different if I remember correctly...In my 98 R I used redline gear oil (something like 75w30 I think). You can find most of that in your manual or on Matt's Volvo site...or just simply google it.
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Feb 8, 2016 23:57
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toplitzin posted:Time for an all the oils change for my R. Those crush washers are too small, the oil pan thread is like 17mm and the trans are even bigger than that. I actually recommend using the official volvo oil in the gearboxes, people always seem to have trouble using anything else. I'm running redline in my manual trans and it doesn't shift as nice as it used to.
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Feb 9, 2016 06:52
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Alright, so after replacing rear lower control arm bushings in the front I took the car to get it aligned and they say that the front right strut is bent (-3 degrees camber, and there's no camber adjustment) and the tie rod has play. I'm going to buy two new front struts and outer tie rods and replace them, but what else should I do while I have it out? Do strut mounts commonly go? Ball joints? 06 V70 2.5T w/146k
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Feb 10, 2016 20:50
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There is a bit of camber adjustment if you loosen the bolts and pry the knuckle away from the strut, I don't know if it'd be enough to take out 3 degrees, it's basically whatever slop in the bolt holes allows you to get. When I do struts I make sure to pry on each side the same way as I tighten the bolts so that I'm not getting random location which would lead to a difference in camber. Upper spring seats should be replaced while the struts are out, make sure to use XC90 seats, they're heavier duty than stock. Although rumor has it that all part numbers direct to the XC90 seat now. You should probably do upper strut bearings too, although those last pretty good. Maybe real quick drop the 3 upper strut nuts and see how smoothly the plates spin. If the ball joints have never been done I'd inspect the boots and if they're cracking then replace the ball joints too, it'll be a good time to do it all at once. Oh and sway bar links always seem to need replacement. You'll be right there and they're usually cheap and easy.
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Feb 10, 2016 23:21
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Ball joint boots look fine. I bought the rubber isolator lower mounts but not the upper bearing. Guess I'll check them once they're off and bank on them being ok and replace if needed.
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Feb 11, 2016 00:39
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Replaced my plugs and wires. No more misfire 
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Feb 14, 2016 23:15
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I'm getting a squealing from my front left wheel when I start the car and turn the wheel, any ideas? Volvo V50 2005. It also has that annoying thing where stones get stuck behind the brake pad and squeal until you pull them out, but it's not that.
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Feb 15, 2016 10:32
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sebmojo posted:I'm getting a squealing from my front left wheel when I start the car and turn the wheel, any ideas? Volvo V50 2005. If you're not moving and just turning the wheel, that sounds like something in your steering (steering pump most likely). It actually puts a lot of pressure on your steering to move the wheels without some forward/backward motion.
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Feb 15, 2016 17:48
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Sorry no, it's when I move forward. Goes away after ten meters or so.
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Feb 16, 2016 19:32
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I'd check the PS belt/tension then.
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Feb 16, 2016 19:48
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LloydDobler posted:
Got my headunit in after much struggling thanks to looking at a tutorial that used the other model dash before starting. Gonna do the door speakers this weekend, but I already peaked inside and had a question for you: on the speaker install page, you mention using nylon locknuts for the door mounts. How did you get in there to put them on? I didn't notice a likely hole (thought I assume I could tear through some stuff to get there, I'd rather not.) Did you use extra long screws and reach through the speaker hole or something along those lines? I also thought maybe long screws and star washers pushed through with the nylock on top could work. Also, the woofer connection look like it has 4 wires going to it—two positive and two negative. Was it like this on yours? I'm kindof confused as to why that would be.
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Feb 18, 2016 17:53
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Larrymer posted:I'd check the PS belt/tension then. It kicks in, intermittently and normally when the cars been sitting overnight, and when I turn hard right. Consistent with PS belt?
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Feb 18, 2016 22:41
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powderific posted:Got my headunit in after much struggling thanks to looking at a tutorial that used the other model dash before starting. Gonna do the door speakers this weekend, but I already peaked inside and had a question for you: on the speaker install page, you mention using nylon locknuts for the door mounts. How did you get in there to put them on? I didn't notice a likely hole (thought I assume I could tear through some stuff to get there, I'd rather not.) Did you use extra long screws and reach through the speaker hole or something along those lines? I also thought maybe long screws and star washers pushed through with the nylock on top could work. The plastic cover where the main harness enters the door pops out easily and there was enough room for me to reach through that and stretch my arm all the way down in there. The alternative is to mount the speaker bracket first and then screw the speaker on to it after it's attached to the door. powderific posted:Also, the woofer connection look like it has 4 wires going to it—two positive and two negative. Was it like this on yours? I'm kindof confused as to why that would be. Do you have the second midrange speaker on your door panel? It might just be parallel wiring to that? Otherwise I don't know. I do know all the speakers are wired in parallel so they act as one channel.
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Feb 19, 2016 10:10
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sebmojo posted:It kicks in, intermittently and normally when the cars been sitting overnight, and when I turn hard right. Consistent with PS belt? I just know that PS belts usually need more tension when they're making noise when cold. It probably takes 5 minutes to try and tighten it, it's worth a shot. Inspect the belt at the same time, it could be cracking. Edit: hmm, guess it doesn't really have a manual tensioner, just a tensioner pulley. Have somebody in the car turn the wheel while you listen where the terrible noise comes from. If it's belt area, then I'd replace the belt and tensioner. This thread has some pictures of the tensioner. I'm not familiar with the V50 specifically so I have no idea if they all share the same engine as the link. http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?167605 Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 13:57 on Feb 19, 2016 |
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Feb 19, 2016 13:52
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LloydDobler posted:The plastic cover where the main harness enters the door pops out easily and there was enough room for me to reach through that and stretch my arm all the way down in there. Nice, guess I was overthinking what was involved. New issue has cropped up: now, after the car sits overnight, my keyless entry doesn't work until I start the car again. Once I do that, it seems to work fine throughout the day. It starts fine and I haven't noticed any other weird behavior. The siren did go off a few times while I was installing things—looks like they sometimes cause issues?
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Feb 19, 2016 21:41
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I bought a 1999 C70 coupe today, got a really good deal on it. It needs the usual ETM replacement and a few small things could use some love but overall its in amazing condition. The best part though? It's one of the 135 HPT C70 coupes with a manual transmission that were sold in the US. They only made 603 of them worldwide over the entire production run of the P80 C70.   I cannot contain my smugness. 
Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Feb 22, 2016 |
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Feb 22, 2016 01:04
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Terrible Robot posted:I bought a 1999 C70 coupe today, got a really good deal on it. It needs the usual ETM replacement and a few small things could use some love but overall its in amazing condition. 
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Feb 22, 2016 04:01
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Terrible Robot posted:I bought a 1999 C70 coupe today, got a really good deal on it. It needs the usual ETM replacement and a few small things could use some love but overall its in amazing condition. Nice, I love the coupes, I see a bunch of them in the Memphis junkyard I haunt. They seem to arrive in better condition than other models. I have a 99 V70XC. I have changed out the engine and only have a couple of more gremlins to work out. Assuming the ETM on the junkyard engine is good, I'd be happy to send you my old one for you to try, it was a yellow sticker one that I never had any real problems with. Just cover the shipping. Does anyone know where the purge valve is supposed to be located and plugged in on a 99 V70? I assume it would be the same for all models. That is one of two codes I am throwing post swap. Also, anyone with a trick to get the little hard plastic line from the oil trap to the manifold in, let me know.
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Feb 22, 2016 04:51
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Since this'll be the last season for my old Mazda, I've been looking recently at used XC70s. 2011 and newer. During the spring/summer/fall I almost exclusively ride my motorcycle and my commute is 7 kilometres one way, so is it an awful idea to pick up a higher-mileage XC70? I'm looking at the 3.2 NA models to keep complexity to a minimum (lol volvo). One I'm looking at now has 111,000 miles on it and its a 2011. I've read that these are among the more reliable Volvos in recent years. Good idea/bad idea?
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Feb 22, 2016 05:37
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EvellSnoats posted:Nice, I love the coupes, I see a bunch of them in the Memphis junkyard I haunt. They seem to arrive in better condition than other models. Thanks for the offer, I think if I do confirm that it's the ETM (and not just the MAF or something) I'm going to go full nuclear option and buy one of these, which dont require any software fuckery because they use your module when they rebuild it. It also replaces the lovely contact film with a hall effect sensor so it should never break again.
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Feb 22, 2016 05:56
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I think it's an optical sensor. And if you want to save some money you can buy the sensor off ebay for around $130 and solder it in yourself. But then you get no lifetime warranty so decide for yourself. I went xemodex and it still works perfect 90k miles later. Also you have the 18" triton wheels, best factory (BBS) Volvo wheel ever. Clean them up and treat them like gold because they're fairly rare and valuable. That's the only car they ever came on, and they were optional. I have a set on my V70 and get complements all the time.
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Feb 22, 2016 18:53
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LloydDobler posted:I think it's an optical sensor. And if you want to save some money you can buy the sensor off ebay for around $130 and solder it in yourself. But then you get no lifetime warranty so decide for yourself. I went xemodex and it still works perfect 90k miles later. You're right, it's an optical. I'll keep the ebay option in mind. One of the Tritons has a cracked/bent lip but it holds air just fine and the barrel isn't damaged so I'm hoping I can get it repaired at a wheel shop. I'm still kind of in shock over this car, it's in such good condition and is so rare, and I got it for $dirt. Dude clearly had no idea what he had.
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Feb 22, 2016 23:27
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VERTiG0 posted:Since this'll be the last season for my old Mazda, I've been looking recently at used XC70s. 2011 and newer. During the spring/summer/fall I almost exclusively ride my motorcycle and my commute is 7 kilometres one way, so is it an awful idea to pick up a higher-mileage XC70? I'm looking at the 3.2 NA models to keep complexity to a minimum (lol volvo). One I'm looking at now has 111,000 miles on it and its a 2011. I've read that these are among the more reliable Volvos in recent years. Just peep swedespeed for comments on trans or oil consumption issues. I don't think there is anything crazy going on with these other than PCV and usual services. They are a bit young yet and most of the trans/awd services are supposed to be lifetime. Batteries on these need replaced earlier than some vehicles. That has the earlier audio system and dash but if you don't care I would think it would be a nice vehicle. Probably pull a bike trailer relatively easily.
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Feb 23, 2016 02:52
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Partycat posted:...trans/awd services are supposed to be lifetime... No, no, no NO. Do not believe Volvo's claims of lifetime trans fluid, at least not for the autos. It's BS and it will kill the transmission if you don't change it every 30k.
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Feb 24, 2016 04:43
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:No, no, no NO. Agreed. I'd go 50k myself but either way it needs to be done regularly if you want the trans to last past the warranty period.
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Feb 24, 2016 21:06
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I assume that applies to every Volvo, including new manuals?
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Feb 25, 2016 07:24
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Manuals can get away with really long oil changes, I do every 100k as a rule. But 30k or 50k would hurt nothing, just $30 in fluid. Ironically I keep putting off the fluid change in my 01 because I want to put in new axle seals when I do it, which is kind of a lot of work. And if I'm going to remove the axles to do seals I may as well rebuild them yadda yadda yadda. I have a bad case of never doing anything because of maintenance creep. Firmly believing in doing as much as you can if the labor puts you there. I've been waiting for my clutch to die for 90k miles now, so I can do subframe bushings, motor mounts, tranny seals, rear main seal, etc etc etc all at the same time.
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Feb 25, 2016 21:50
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Anyone have any experience with the AUP CV axles IPD sells?
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Feb 29, 2016 21:44
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Supposedly Aisin says it is lifetime which means 100k. The dealers proportedly don't want to change it. The haldex similarly doesn't have a serviceable filter, you have to drill and tap it. I can probably do a fluid exchange at home by pulling a line, but are you advocating doing a regular flush at 50k?
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Mar 1, 2016 01:06
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] [ ...this close to getting a '89 240 DL; paint is hideous, but rubber window seals look good, body seems straight with a few trim issues, all the lights work with new glass covers, and the interior is immaculate minus a few cigarette burn holes in the back seat. Odo is, of course, borked but that seems to be a given with this type of car from all that I've read here. Couldn't test drive it per se, but it idled well and seemed fine on the long driveway the seller had. Bonus points for newer radio that was installed recently. Haven't had a car in a million years - die hard truck guy since forever - but my lust for Swedish steel is stronger (and VW hatch types too, but that isn't happening anytime soon); Mrs. will flip her poo poo over the paint, but I can fool her with the odo reading to compensate. Wish me luck, lads!
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Mar 1, 2016 23:01
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Good luck. '89 is a really good year for the 240.
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Mar 1, 2016 23:19
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I have an 89. I can attest for it's goodness. Sedan or wagon?
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Mar 1, 2016 23:37
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Sedan, but I would have preferred a wagon. Always an issue of having the cash but none were locally available and vice versa. My time spent working out of town hasn't helped either with the search but c'est le vie. p.s. Possibly pushed my luck by going on a 4 hour drive with the old girl just mere hours after purchase, but nothing ventured and all of that. Other than the temperature gauge bottoming out here and there (would look down and the needle was below the temp range - look at it again a few minutes later and it would be low to mid in the gauge, if that makes sense), I didn't have any other issue. Certainly different sort of ride compared to the Japanese cars I've had over the past two decades, and I'm not complaining. Dammit_Carl! fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Mar 3, 2016 |
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Mar 1, 2016 23:45
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Took my V70 to a frame shop to see wtf is going on with the static -3 degrees of camber. Looks like the strut tower may be bent inward or just bent, dunno how the gently caress that would happen before the strut/control arm/knuckle failed first. It seems like the wheel and everything is fine, but I bought it used so who knows.  It's at an alignment shop today to get numbers and then the frame place is going to go from there. It doesn't sound like this is going to be kind to my wallet, I'm thinking about just unloading it.
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Mar 3, 2016 14:20
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Did they rule out a bent strut? It's unusual but not unheard of.
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Mar 3, 2016 16:02
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zundfolge posted:Did they rule out a bent strut? It's unusual but not unheard of. Alright, full story: I took to get aligned, they said the strut was bent. I replaced both of the fronts, then put it on the ground and it still visually had the camber so I was pissed. I took it to the collision place to see where the actual problem was, and they thought the tower was possibly tweaked. It was parked on an angled surface but it didn't look that bad camber wise, so maybe the strut did do something after I drove the car, who knows. They had me take it to an alignment place to get the numbers and go from there, and I assumed the worst since it still didn't look great after the strut (initially in my levelish garage). Good news is that the alignment place called and they said they can probably get it close to spec by shifting the engine mounts a bit (no camber adjustment) for a few more bucks. I guess it's close enough to not really be that big of a deal after all.
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Mar 3, 2016 16:07
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I have a '85 240 DL that I've had mild ideas about fixing up to be a track toy/fun daily driver for years, it's 100% stock (aside from 15" wheels and sportier tires) and in 'decent' condition for a car with ~250k miles that's been sitting in the California sun for 15 years. I'm the PO and there's It's going to need a full refresh of pretty much everything suspension/bushing wise (although it has relatively new Bilstein HD's all around), it's an automatic so that would be swapped, and I have dreams of putting a fun/spirited engine swap into it rather than turboing what's in there, but I have no idea what the 'done' engine swap is in these anymore though. I already have an E92 M3 so I'm kind of leaning towards not making it a V8/Mustang 5.0, but perhaps that's still the best option? I have more money for this project than sense or mechanical talent - but the 240 is pretty easy to work on. I just don't have a dedicated 'rebuild this car' garage space so I'd likely have to rely on shops to help with the heavier lifting. I'm in SoCal so that shouldn't be an issue, or shipping it to the PNW would be doable too. I haven't been active on Volvo forums in ages so I don't really know what the scene is like any more but I recall seeing people sending rehab projects up to Oregon in the past. My wife floated the idea this morning that I finally spend some money up-doing my old car, I'm sentimentally atttached to 240's thanks to my dad hooking me on them as a kid (this is the second one I've owned and in going on 26 years of drivers license-havership, I've owned a 240 for 24 of those years) - he located this one for me when I was in college - best $2500 car I've ever heard of as it's taken me from Chicago to NYC to Los Angeles over the last two decades of me owning it - and he's no longer around so I feel slightly more guilty about getting rid of this old girl and I feel there's a lot of life in the car if someone put some work into it. Trim is 99% there (missing one piece), and the interior is 95% complete and is the light tan so even though it's sun faded, it looks pretty decent. I have no real idea of what a trans/engine swap would cost me to have someone else do it, but (using completely arbitrarily factored costs using 'wishful thinking' as my plan model) I feel like $3-5k would probably do just about everything I could imagine needing to this car. Correct my imaginary math as necessary. Is this a terrible idea and should I just buy a Miata?
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Mar 7, 2016 22:57
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