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What do you think is more important to a car's wear and tear? Amount of miles it has gone through or age?
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Feb 29, 2016 05:12
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Miles for the most part but lots of things wear even without lots of miles on them. Everything rubber, for instance. I saw a few early 2010s Falcons for sale the other day for sub-3k, all with more than 800,000 kilometres on the clock. Fuckin' ex-taxis man. Don't touch them with a 10-foot clown pole.
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Feb 29, 2016 05:32
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IOwnCalculus posted:I think it's only a matter of time until they do, even without full autonomy engaged. This is all at the cost of radically increased complexity. Slushboxes with six or seven gears have a staggering number of moving parts. Computer-controlled "manuals" also have extra parts compared to an actual manual, obviously. If you want something to be as reliable as possible (as in going out into the bush), or as cheap as possible, manually shifted transmissions are still what you want. Fuel-injection ECUs should certainly do deceleration fuel cut-off, so as long as you aren't shifting so slowly that the engine drops close to idle, then you might not actually spend any fuel during the shift.
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Feb 29, 2016 05:35
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Not sure if the OP is up to date, but my wife's car just got totalled. It was a 2000 Toyota Malibu and we're looking at maybe a Chevy Corolla 2015 XS or whatever with a backup camera. I had an old Corolla 1992 and it is still driving in the wilds of Michigan and I currently own a Prius C, so I'm a huge Toyota partisan. My wife is a little more rock flag and eagle but is open to suggestions. We've got around 3.2K from insurance on the totaled car and maybe another K for down payment. We'd like to pay less than $300/mo for the car. We live in Oakland, which has a robust second hand market (techies are good at wanting new toys and abandoning perfectly good toys). Any suggestions?
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Feb 29, 2016 06:24
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In terms of cost I meant more than just fuel, I mean driver effort too. Seems silly at face value, but there have been plenty of times where if I tried to be in the highest gear I would get there only to hit the brakes immediately afterwards... so I'd leave it in whatever lower gear I was in. Case in point, approaching my neighborhood from a stoplight a short distance away, I might only be in third before I have to get on the brakes. In anything automatic if I'm not flooring it, they're in at least fourth. Also, DFCO usually has some time delay before it kicks in, so it only really works in-gear. Not gonna argue you on the mass complexity of the modern automatic, though. Someone somewhere on AI brought up the point that the modern car is both more and less reliable, but also less maintainable, than older cars. It will more easily make it through the first 100k, even 200k miles, but after that you start looking at major and near catastrophic system failures. At that point in a car's life it will probably not be worth enough to do anything other than a junkyard swap for the engine/transmission/etc.
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Feb 29, 2016 06:27
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punk rebel ecks posted:What do you think is more important to a car's wear and tear? Amount of miles it has gone through or age? Maintenance combined with mileage. Until you get to an absurd age or it hasn't been driven for a while regularly. Basically: it's more complicated than than. And you're probably concerned with more than mechanicals here, and that's all I was talking about. Some people are pigs and make an interior disgusting. Other people/some of the same people drive by the braille method and gently caress up wheels and body panels. Motronic fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Feb 29, 2016 |
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Feb 29, 2016 06:30
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Bovril Delight posted:Am I overthinking seeing paper tags on a car that is for sale from a private seller in Texas? You only get the paper tags when you're waiting on a permanent plate, so it just seems odd that if you're selling the car, you don't have a real plate. Seller is probably a flipper that bought it at auction and never registered it. You can get DIY paper tags from the state of TX that are good for 7 days, but the tags on it now are probably buyer's tags from an auction house. IOwnCalculus posted:My Honda CRV will downshift on its own to maintain cruise speed on a long downhill grade by using engine braking. Kinda awesome, honestly. Pretty sure my 91 Integra did the same thing - IIRC it'd drop a gear while cruising downhill unless I touched the throttle. Shbobdb posted:Not sure if the OP is up to date, but my wife's car just got totalled. It was a 2000 Toyota Malibu and we're looking at maybe a Chevy Corolla 2015 XS  I knew Toyota and Chevy swapped models occasionally (see Chevy Prizm and Toyota Corolla, or the Toyota Cavalier sold in Japan), but wow.This thread will probably be a bit more help though. punk rebel ecks posted:What do you think is more important to a car's wear and tear? Amount of miles it has gone through or age? Yes. Seriously though, you can look at a 3 year old car with 150,000 all-highway miles, or a 10 year old car with 20,000 miles that was only driven to and from church and the grocery store by a little old lady. The 150,000 highway mile car will probably be in better shape. It's spent most of its time cruising at pretty narrow RPM range, and was driven enough to get up to temp. The 10 year old grandma car, on the other hand, likely never saw above 2000 RPM and very likely never came up to normal temp, and it's not a car I would touch unless it was incredibly cheap. Those are both intended to be extreme examples that you'll occasionally run into. A lot of miles doesn't bother me, as long as the car has been taken care of. Conversely, unusually low mileage (low enough to indicate that it wasn't driven regularly, or only driven on short trips) scares me off.
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Feb 29, 2016 06:34
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Usage is such an important factor, yeah. I once saw two Mazda 121 Metros within a week of each other, both with serious problems. One of them had destroyed the front discs and pads, and all of the shocks due to being spectacularly overloaded and used as an elevator maintenance vehicle. The other had a completely hosed exhaust from never being driven up to temperature. The first was 2 months old, the second was 5 years old. They had both done a little over eight thousand kilometers.
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Feb 29, 2016 07:10
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What would be a good mileage to have for car from say 2010?
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Feb 29, 2016 07:19
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some texas redneck posted:Seller is probably a flipper that bought it at auction and never registered it. You can get DIY paper tags from the state of TX that are good for 7 days, but the tags on it now are probably buyer's tags from an auction house. Thanks for the help and thanks for catching my mix up. That is . . . Embarrassing.
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Feb 29, 2016 08:07
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I've driven some of those double clutch DSG automatics from VAG and you have to be Sebastien Loeb to change gears faster in a manual. I drive a manual because they are far more ubiquitous in Europe but I'm considering an automatic for my next car because driving in heavy traffic sucks in a manual.
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Feb 29, 2016 09:06
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punk rebel ecks posted:What would be a good mileage to have for car from say 2010? Figure 5 to 12 thousand miles per year. Anything from 30-72,000 miles is perfectly reasonable. Although, in my experience, 41,328 miles is the best.
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Feb 29, 2016 15:07
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Safety Dance posted:Figure 5 to 12 thousand miles per year. Anything from 30-72,000 miles is perfectly reasonable. What would you say be the highest limit of being reasonable? Would 90000 be okay?
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Feb 29, 2016 15:11
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punk rebel ecks posted:What would you say be the highest limit of being reasonable? Would 90000 be okay? 15K miles per year isn't unreasonable, as long as the price is right and the vehicle was well maintained. You're getting up into the mileage where you need to start worrying about the timing belt in a lot of cars, and that could run you a thousand bucks or so. Keep that in mind when you buy. What kind of vehicle is it? What is the seller asking? What part of the world are you in?
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Feb 29, 2016 15:23
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punk rebel ecks posted:What would be a good mileage to have for car from say 2010? I usually estimate 10k miles a year is avg. Someone dropping 20k miles a year probably hates cars and uses them like appliances. Also depends on maintenance schedules and setup. A FWD v6 with a CVT and 120k miles is much less desirable than a miata manual with 120k miles. Or compare a vw with 200k miles dsg vs some crusty ranger with manual and 200k miles. A basic manual in rwd is less likely to hand you a giant repair bill than an advanced fwd with a dsg or CVT.
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Feb 29, 2016 15:34
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NVM BB Code is going crazy. punk rebel ecks fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Feb 29, 2016 |
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Feb 29, 2016 16:39
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Christobevii3 posted:I usually estimate 10k miles a year is avg. Someone dropping 20k miles a year probably hates cars and uses them like appliances. I don't know if I'd infer something like that based only on their annual mileage. Some people commute a lot and others don't. silence_kit fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Feb 29, 2016 |
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Feb 29, 2016 16:49
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I live in the northeast so time is important here.. I've bought 1 high mileage and 1 higher mileage vehicle. one vehicle had 100k on it but it got regular service and the carfax showed it went to florida and back at least once a year (Summer work done in my city winter work done in florida) it was most likely a grandma and grandpa snowbird mobile that they could fit all their stuff in for the winter. All service was completed at the dealer when it should have been so it was maintained. Only thing that made me sad was they did the timing belt and I didn't know.. my mechanic missed the sticker on the cover (As did I until 2 months later) .. $800 in unneeded job. next car I bought is a 2013 with 50k miles just a bit ago.. based on what I saw of where it was bought, registered and service completed, it was a daily commuter and saw about 100 miles in commuting each day, again serviced at the dealer and the service timeframes met the books recommendations. Here salty roads eat metal and make things harder to fix and repair later on because all the bolts are rusted on.. so I'm always more worried about time than mileage.. even at 100k I figure a vehicle has another 100k left. If a car has 10 years on it, I'd pass
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Feb 29, 2016 17:16
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punk rebel ecks posted:What would you say be the highest limit of being reasonable? Would 90000 be okay? There's a lot more to it than this. How well was it maintained? Was that 90000 driven mostly on the highway (better) or in gridlock traffic (worse)? Was it owned by a teenager or a grandmother? Is it a Toyota Corolla or a Subaru WRX?
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Feb 29, 2016 17:26
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Also, 13k a year is the US average.
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Feb 29, 2016 17:54
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silence_kit posted:I don't know if I'd infer something like that based only on their annual mileage. Some people commute a lot and others don't. Yup. I'm still two months shy of having my CRV for three years and I just rolled 70k on the drive to work today.
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Feb 29, 2016 20:27
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OK dumb opinion question. My 2007 Mazda3 with 93k miles in Minneapolis just loving broke. I have it at a shop right now and it needs a new motor. When I pushed it out of the garage there was broken metal on the ground beneath the car so I don't question the necessity of a new motor. My question is what would be the best way to spend money on this car. The quote I have is for a used motor (JZZ motor in case someone knows particulars) with 76k miles for $2345. With labor I'm looking at $3575 to get it swapped. This includes time to disassemble the transmission because the motor won't rotate. Shop estimated that adds about 3 hours to the job. The other option is to junk this car and get a new one. Wife is really wanting a minivan since we're starting on our 2nd kid so this was something in the works anyway. So stupid questions: Anyone know how much I could get for the car with the motor trashed? I figure it's got to be worth more than scrap value but could I get $500 or maybe even $1000 for it as a parts car? (That high end seems optimistic to me) Looking at KBB if the car is operational and in "Good" condition I should be able to get $4000-$5300 for trade in or $5900 from a private party sale. Do these numbers seem realistic and if so should I junk the car or get the motor replaced and drive it while looking for a new car? My current opinion is that I fix the car and then use it for capital on the replacement. I'm still ahead of the repair cost if I do that. I'm looking for other opinions and some sanity checking on these numbers.
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Feb 29, 2016 22:18
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If your numbers for repair and resale are solid, I'd fix it and move it on for the replacement. This will mean you have a working car again if it takes a while to find something you like. Parting out involves a certain amount of hassle, remember.
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Feb 29, 2016 23:14
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MonkeyBot posted:The quote I have is for a used motor (JZZ motor in case someone knows particulars) with 76k miles for $2345. With labor I'm looking at $3575 to get it swapped. This includes time to disassemble the transmission because the motor won't rotate. Shop estimated that adds about 3 hours to the job. What displacement is your engine (should be 2.0 or 2.3L)? Little known fact, from the early 2000s up until 2011 Ford licensed what was practically the same four cylinder engines Mazda used in their cars. If you could talk the shop into it you could use a Ford Duratec out of a 2003-2011 (year will depend on the displacement) Focus. The engine is practically identical minus a few minor pieces like engine mounts and the timing ring on the intake camshaft, which they should be able to swap over from your current engine, which from your description sounds like it suffered bottom end damage. I went through a similar issue in early 2014 when my wife's Mazda 6 got out of time enough for the valves to smash themselves against the pistons. A Mazda junkyard engine was going for about $1200 with high miles, whereas a Ford engine (out of a first-generation Fusion) was about a third of that. Might be something to look into if the shop would be willing to do the work.
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Feb 29, 2016 23:48
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Geoj posted:What displacement is your engine (should be 2.0 or 2.3L)? Well that's something to look at. It's the 2.3l. What year Focus would I be looking for then? Also a more general question is: how reliable are kbb.com numbers? That's where I'm getting my trade-in numbers so if those are reasonable it helps make my decision easier.
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Mar 1, 2016 02:29
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So would you guys say these cars would be okay in terms of year to mile ratio? Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5
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Mar 1, 2016 02:33
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MonkeyBot posted:Well that's something to look at. It's the 2.3l. What year Focus would I be looking for then? 2.3 Duratecs came in some 2003 & 2004 models and the 2005-7 ST. They won't be as plentiful as 2.0 engines but they should be out there.
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Mar 1, 2016 02:34
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MonkeyBot posted:Also a more general question is: how reliable are kbb.com numbers? That's where I'm getting my trade-in numbers so if those are reasonable it helps make my decision easier. Check craiglist for your area if there are any comps on there, assuming the number people are asking is not what they are taking to actually move the vehicle. I bet your trade in value is a bit closer to the private party sale price you would actually get in the end.
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Mar 1, 2016 02:36
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punk rebel ecks posted:So would you guys say these cars would be okay in terms of year to mile ratio? I'd take the Sonata over any of the hybrids. Less to go wrong. Get a pre-purchase inspection. I live in Chicago if you want to drag me along one weekend and get my uneducated "duh, this looks okay I guess" opinion.
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Mar 1, 2016 02:57
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Go to check out a car today and just like magic the cosmetic damage turns into the reinforcement bar being bent to poo poo and the SRS airbag light on. loving CL sellers.
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Mar 1, 2016 03:48
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Safety Dance posted:I'd take the Sonata over any of the hybrids. Less to go wrong. Get a pre-purchase inspection. I live in Chicago if you want to drag me along one weekend and get my uneducated "duh, this looks okay I guess" opinion. I'd want details on what kind of "commercial vehicle" it was, and why it was repainted at age 5. I'd also be shopping outside the city proper. All those miles are going to be in traffic rather than on the highway. A commercial vehicle (meaning the driver has no vested interest in not abusing it) in the heart of Chicago with 88k miles strikes me as a car that's had the wear and tear of a 200k mile car.
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Mar 1, 2016 03:55
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So I shouldn't get a hybrid as it is more likely for something to go wrong with it compared to a non-hybrid?
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Mar 1, 2016 04:34
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Car: 89 cougar Car starts and runs. Idle sounds a little rough but not hugely. When running, exhaust emits white smoke. No coolant in the oil, it's the color it's always been. The coolant in the radiator is low but I hadn't checked it in a while so that may or may not be new. My immediate assumption was head gasket, but my mechanic claims it would sound like dogshit if the head gasket was blown - and when driving the engine sounds like it always has - so he doesn't think it's that. He thinks it might be an intake gasket and says there was a problem with those on this year of car. I don't know enough to sniff test that assertion so here I am. What are the possibilities here and how harmful would it be to drive like this? I'm not in a position where I have to so I won't but it'd be nice to know if I'm gonna blow it up or not if something emergency-level comes up.
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Mar 1, 2016 05:00
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^A headgasket failure doesn't necessarily cause any weird noises. My 93 Taurus (3.8L) ate its HG and burned coolant and I had no indication other than the white smoke. What engine do you have?punk rebel ecks posted:So I shouldn't get a hybrid as it is more likely for something to go wrong with it compared to a non-hybrid? Stop looking for absolute rules.
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Mar 1, 2016 05:05
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Godholio posted:Stop looking for absolute rules.  Okay.
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Mar 1, 2016 05:12
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Godholio posted:^A headgasket failure doesn't necessarily cause any weird noises. My 93 Taurus (3.8L) ate its HG and burned coolant and I had no indication other than the white smoke. What engine do you have? 3.8 V6, probably the same one. So it's possible for a coolant to combustion chamber leak to happen without an oil to coolant leak? Is that like, less bad than it letting go all the way? On the one end, a local shop with a solid rep will do a complete head gasket + unfuck everything related job for $1800 and change. That's a significant multiple of the car's nominal value, but it will be straight up fixed. On the other end, this guy's telling me that if it is the head gasket we can try some in-coolant leak plugging stuff which kinda gives me the heebies. I'm hoping to find a middle option. Javid fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Mar 1, 2016 |
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Mar 1, 2016 05:36
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Javid posted:
Yes, and not really. Burning coolant will trash your pistons.
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Mar 1, 2016 05:48
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Javid posted:
Unless you're about to flip it and leave the country then yeah, in-coolant leak "fixing" is a Bad Thing. The stuff is supposed to harden on contact with air to stop leaks. It also usually hardens in narrow passages that get hotter, blocking off vital flow to hotspots that essentially guarantee your engine will eat its own guts.
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Mar 1, 2016 07:33
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Christobevii3 posted:I usually estimate 10k miles a year is avg. Someone dropping 20k miles a year probably hates cars and uses them like appliances. I average about 20k a year, and while I'm sure plenty of people fawn over their cars, I stay up with maintenance and repairs.  That said, a lot of the miles are from doing delivery and courier work, so of the 60k I've put on it myself, a lot of them are city miles.
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Mar 1, 2016 09:59
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 11:20 |
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punk rebel ecks posted:So I shouldn't get a hybrid as it is more likely for something to go wrong with it compared to a non-hybrid? I'm not really sure that's true as by all accounts the Toyota Prius at least has been very reliable, more so than almost any other vehicle. I don't know about the other hybrids. You can always get a subscription or just buy one of the Consumer Reports magazines. They put out a big auto issue every year.
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Mar 1, 2016 10:28
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