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cmykjester posted:Yeah, I kind of made it a rule that I'm not going to buy a new model until the one I have is completed. I already have a steam backlog, I don't need a model backlog too. I give you six months. e: poo poo, new page. So, that Astaroth.  People have mentioned that it looks like an 00 side-MS, and that's one of the reasons I like it, but I realised that it's not the main reason. It's the blatant asymmetry of the suit. We don't have too many of those in Gundam as a series; normally it's only the equipment that differentiates left and right (until you get to some of the later UC designs that stand as much chance of getting a modern kit as the Jegan does an MG). Beyond hands — mainly in things like the Acguy and Gouf, but also in some of the Origin prototypes — the range of asymmetry is even smaller. But on this glorious bastard, the lower legs are entirely different, as are the arms. And, y'know, the small shield on the left hand has what looks like a 1/100 hand, which makes me think of the Gouf R35. Definitely picking this one up. DigitalRaven fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Feb 29, 2016 |
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Feb 29, 2016 16:27
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DigitalRaven posted:I give you six months. I do believe that it has one Graze arm and one Spinner Rodi arm, which is, like, next-level junky crap. Do wish that they'd made the head or some other bit a touch more sleek and high-tech-looking, though, to emphasise the mighty, ancient war machine under all that scrapyard mess.
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Feb 29, 2016 18:08
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DigitalRaven posted:I give you six months. I love the asymmetry too, but the lower legs aren't that different.
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Feb 29, 2016 18:14
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Hey honeys. I've started making a WEBSITE, where you can document your Gunpla collection, wishlist and photos of your Gunpla. It's in ~extreme beta~, hence the Bootstrap look (and it's not very nice on mobile - yet). Even the name of it sucks, so suggestions are welcome. Have a little look, sign up, log in, etc: https://my-gunpla.herokuapp.com/ The thing is that I haven't got round to adding every model kit yet, so you can add missing kits (of which there are loving loads) with the button up top right if you feel brave enough! Thank u and goodnight
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Feb 29, 2016 18:44
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I'm having trouble deciding which kit to do next as I've already done the best two mobile suits. Does a BIG ZAM gunpla kit exist or are they mass produced now?
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Feb 29, 2016 20:39
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Kuvo posted:I'm having trouble deciding which kit to do next as I've already done the best two mobile suits. Does a BIG ZAM gunpla kit exist or are they mass produced now? Do a Zock! http://dalong.net/review/hg/h81/h81_p.htm e: 
Kibner fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Feb 29, 2016 |
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Feb 29, 2016 21:04
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Kuvo posted:I'm having trouble deciding which kit to do next as I've already done the best two mobile suits. Does a BIG ZAM gunpla kit exist or are they mass produced now? there's a 1/400 kit but I think it's hard to find?
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Feb 29, 2016 21:13
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Kuvo posted:I'm having trouble deciding which kit to do next as I've already done the best two mobile suits. Does a BIG ZAM gunpla kit exist or are they mass produced now? MG Wing Gundam TV version. MG Gundam X is not better. Don't listen to blitzblast's inevitable lies. 
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Feb 29, 2016 21:15
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Yeah, Gundam Double X is even better than Gundam X
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Feb 29, 2016 21:37
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The only good looking suit to come out of wing was the tallgeese and according to dalong there isnt a HG or RG version of it? Was thinking about going with the HG Gouf because Ramba Ral is cool and its no zaku.
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Feb 29, 2016 21:39
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Just get the MG Tallgeese I. It's good, and literally about as complex as an RG except at a bigger scale so it's easier to put together.
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Feb 29, 2016 21:41
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get a model of the best mobile suit <--
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Feb 29, 2016 21:42
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Droyer posted:get a model of the best mobile suit I can also support this. The Tallgeese is acceptable, I guess. Still, I highly recommend picking one of the Zeon aquatic suits and falling in love with the aesthetics.
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Feb 29, 2016 21:44
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Kibner posted:Still, I highly recommend picking one of the Zeon aquatic suits and falling in love with the aesthetics. Preferably the Z'gok-E or Hygogg, the only two good aquatic mobile suits.
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Feb 29, 2016 21:53
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Kuvo posted:I'm having trouble deciding which kit to do next as I've already done the best two mobile suits. Does a BIG ZAM gunpla kit exist or are they mass produced now? What grade do you hanker for? That may help us help you. In HG terms, you already have a Qubeley, so have you considered a modern reinterpretation? The G-Lucifer is a very good kit.
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Feb 29, 2016 22:06
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If I wanted Ramba Rals Gouf, which one of these would be the right one? http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-MS-07B-Mobile-Gundam/dp/B00030EVDY http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Tamashii-Nations-Origin-Prototype/dp/B010NCH26O http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-MS-06b-Custom-Model/dp/B0041F084S (isnt this the 8th MS team version?) Darth Walrus posted:What grade do you hanker for? That may help us help you. HG or RG is fine
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Feb 29, 2016 22:10
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Kuvo posted:If I wanted Ramba Rals Gouf, which one of these would be the right one? the first one
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Feb 29, 2016 22:13
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Kuvo posted:The only good looking suit to come out of wing was the tallgeese and according to dalong there isnt a HG or RG version of it? There's only the MG Tallgeese, and while it's a great kit and mobile suit, I will fight you all day for saying it's the only good Wing suit. You can't go wrong with either the new HG Gouf or even the HG Gouf R35 from Build Fighters if you want a cool variation built by Ramba Ral himself.
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Feb 29, 2016 22:18
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If you can wait a bit, there's a HG Gouf Revive coming out which will be a new mould.
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Feb 29, 2016 22:24
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Lemon Curdistan posted:If you can wait a bit, there's a HG Gouf Revive coming out which will be a new mould. Yeah, that seems like the best bet. It's coming out next month, so you really won't have to wait long.
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Feb 29, 2016 22:30
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I think I'll do that then, thanks for the help
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Feb 29, 2016 22:35
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In other news, the web-exclusive EZ-SR FOX HOUND is... quite something.
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Feb 29, 2016 23:27
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That is a reasonably cool head.
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Feb 29, 2016 23:30
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The 1/100 gusion rebake is very backheavy, which is unsurprising as it basically has the weight of another kit on its back.
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Feb 29, 2016 23:42
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Nobody mentioned how the V-fin looks like a cowboy hat.
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Mar 1, 2016 00:11
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Kibner posted:Still, I highly recommend picking one of the Zeon aquatic suits and falling in love with the aesthetics. He should get this  Then do a Zock after because it comes with extra decals for one.
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Mar 1, 2016 02:56
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Is that supposed to be all three at the same time?
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Mar 1, 2016 03:20
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Midjack posted:Is that supposed to be all three at the same time? Pretty sure that's it, yeah. I don't remember that gun though.
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Mar 1, 2016 03:21
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Finished my first kit, Char's Zaku Origin version. It was really enjoyable and looks cool as hell. I'm definitely going to continue the hobby, but I'm not sure what kit I'll do next. I want to someday do a MG Sinanju, but I want some more practice first.
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Mar 1, 2016 03:31
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Bandai sack up and give me a MG Zogok.
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Mar 1, 2016 03:51
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Finally have some actual parts ready to show off for the Qubeley Papillon Definitive Edition. It's taken a LOT of reworks to get to this point, including basically cannibalizing many parts from my old snapbuild Papillon, but everything's comin' up Milhouse! There is un-evenness in the finish, mostly because basement. I'm going to have to build a clean room, or at least source a crappy old table that I can get a big plastic container for a protective shield as parts dry. It only shows at close inspection, at least.  After having painted the parts with Alclad gloss black base, Alclad chrome, and Auto-Air candy teal mixed for airbrushing, I tried handbrushing Model Masters Pearl Orange enamel with the intent of cleaning it up with lighter fluid. The handbrushing wasn't so great, and I saw some Japanese Papillon builder airbrush in the detail parts first. After doing some research on the process, I opted to paint the parts in the desired color and then mask. On the right is the pearl orange airbrushed. On the left, the masked part with some Mr. Masking Sol Neo to cover a small gap between the two stickers. Both parts got the airbrushed Pearl Orange enamel, then a coat of Future left to cure overnight. On the normal Qubeley Papillon, stickers provide the detail color on the feet, calf armor, wrists, and wing binders, etc. Here, they're masking off the painted parts. The stickers got applied gently to my jeans and to the tablecloth in order to de-tack a little bit.  The results after masking off the other foot and re-doing the entire candy-coating paint process? Astonishing. It was tough to line up the stickers, but they had de-tacked enough to be maneuvered VERY GENTLY AND CAREFULLY. After completing the painting and letting it dry for an hour or so, I very gently slid the point of a fresh Xacto blade under a sticker to lift it. The rest of it was just tweezers.  The binders are HUGELY better without handbrushing. It's not possible at my handbrush skill level to do it properly. Double the fact that over gloss topcoat, it's really tough to get enough coats neatly built up.  The face shows off the Pearl Orange nicely on the Kamina-style shades.  A 1mm microbrush (you gotta try these, they sell 'em at your local hobby shop) and Model Masters steel enamel did the detail on the mouth. The camera and eyes are Mr. Metallic Color green, applied with toothpicks for the eyes and microbrush for the camera.
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Mar 1, 2016 04:01
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I could use some help here. I'm new to this thread so maybe this has been talked about before (apologies if it has!), but I was cleaning and moved the Grey Wolf Zeta my husband and I were working on and it got knocked off the table and a piece broke. We tried plastic cement but it didn't hold, and I was wondering if there was a better method since it's somewhat load-bearing. I saw a video where some dude repaired a piece by putting metal pins in it but I don't know if this piece is thick enough for that. Suggestions? Here's a pic of the piece in question:
Blackish Sheep fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Mar 1, 2016 |
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Mar 1, 2016 04:47
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I think your best chance for that is to use multiple applications of strong superglue, and let each application dry for about a day before applying another one.
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Mar 1, 2016 05:00
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Is Krazy Glue a good one to use or should I use a real super glue?
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Mar 1, 2016 05:16
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Blackish Sheep posted:Is Krazy Glue a good one to use or should I use a real super glue? I would use real super glue, especially if this part is load-bearing as you stated.
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Mar 1, 2016 05:33
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While we are in advice corner. I keep loving up waterslide decals. I've seen people do just a quick dip or a soak before siding it off but neither method has worked for me advice? Tips?
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Mar 1, 2016 05:34
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Cerepol posted:While we are in advice corner. I keep loving up waterslide decals. I've seen people do just a quick dip or a soak before siding it off but neither method has worked for me advice? Tips? Soak until it starts to curl.
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Mar 1, 2016 05:35
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Seen it before. 
Sharkopath fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Mar 1, 2016 |
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Mar 1, 2016 05:38
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Flippinlikebirds posted:Finished my first kit, Char's Zaku Origin version. It was really enjoyable and looks cool as hell. I'm definitely going to continue the hobby, but I'm not sure what kit I'll do next. I want to someday do a MG Sinanju, but I want some more practice first. The new Gundam RX-78-2 HG would be a good second kit to go with your Char. Those were my first kits and now I can't stop!
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Mar 1, 2016 08:03
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Blackish Sheep posted:Is Krazy Glue a good one to use or should I use a real super glue? Do NOT, under any circumstances, follow through with this advice. Super glue is the worst possible choice for a fix of this kind and will only net you a soon-to-be-broken-again part that's been further ruined by thick layers of CA crud. What's called for here is a solid weld with quality (i.e. non-Testors) plastic cement (it shouldn't "not hold" if allowed to set and cure properly) and probably filling the part with epoxy putty over a brass rod insert. It's not an especially simple fix, but there aren't a whole lot of effective options here. I would personally go ahead and reinforce the other side in the same way, that looks absurdly fragile for what it is. edit: an alternate method would be to cut plastic strips to fit and layer them inside the part, basically filling up the U-shape to strengthen the spar... same as above but faster and less materials-intensive (and also, frankly, less strong.) Super Glue would be fine, in fact ideal to use for this method because you're joining wide flat surfaces instead of thin, stress-bearing edges... one way or another, though, just gluing the pieces back together isn't going to cut it. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Mar 1, 2016 |
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